Guide to Italian Wines
Chicago, IL
Published by Tom Hyland
[email protected] _Winter 2013/2014
Vineyards at Tenuta Castelbuono, Montefalco (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
IN THIS ISSUE
The Latest from Marche … Page 2
Montefalco Sagrantino … Page 8
The Latest from Campania … Page 12
Dolcetto from Dogliani … Page 18
The Latest from Valpolicella … Page 22
New from Trentino … Page 26
THE LATEST FROM MARCHE
My recent visit to Marche resulted in two suprises for me. The first was realizing how
beautiful and unspoiled this region is; it’s how I think most foreigners perceive Italy.
The second was how good Verdicchio is; it’s not that I was taken aback by the overall
quality, rather I was pleasantly surprised by the strengths of this wine at every level.
The entry level examples of Verdicchio, which often sell for $12-15 retail in the United
States, are solid wines with very good acidity and flavor – they are delicious and work
with so many types of cuisine. Then there are the selezioni as well as the riservas and the
single vineyard offerings. Not only do these wines have excellent concentration and
complexity, but they also stand the test of time, as I tasted six, ten, even fifteen and
twenty year old bottlings that were in great shape.
I simply do not understand why Verdicchio has not become more successful in
America; it is a shame that on many wine lists, even the ones that feature small
producers, often only have one example from which to choose. But that same list will
have three or four whites from Friuli and usually at least two Pinot Grigio. I guess a
major reason for this is that Verdicchio is from Marche, a region unknown to the public
as well as to many wine stewards and directors. Let’s hope that changes soon!
VILLA BUCCI • PONGELLI
This is one of Marche’s most celebrated wine estates and is arguably the most famous
producer of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. The regular bottling is always nicely
balanced with good typicity, while the Riserva is among the best whites of Italy almost
every year.
2012 VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO
Straw; aromas of acacia flowers, Bosc pear, jasmine and spearmint. Good persistence,
excellent balance, nice complexity and very good acidity. A chamring wine meant to
enjoy over the next 3-5 years. ***
2009 VILLA BUCCI RISERVA
100% Verdicchio aged in older large barrels for two years. Light yellow with golden
tints, aromas of cream, orange blossom and hyacinth. Medium-full with excellent
concentration. Elegant entry on the palate, distinct minerality, lovely finesse, beautiful
harmony and a long, long finish. Outstanding wine that is a beauty right now, but wil
improve and peak in 7-10 years – perhaps longer. *****
2008 VILLA BUCCI RISERVA
Light yellow with aromas of dried pear, dried yellow flowers and a hint of custard.
Medium-full, this has very good complexity, notable persistence and a round finish
wihth very good acidity. Best in 5-7 years. ****
2007 VILLA BUCCI RISERVA
Light yellow; aromas of ripe red apples, lilacs and a hint of beeswax. Medium-full with
excellent concentration. Very good ripeness- round and full in the mouth. Notable
persistence and as always, very good complexity. Best in 5-7 years. ****
More reviews of Villa Bucci wines on the following page
VILLA BUCCI (continued)
2004 VILLA BUCCI RISERVA
Deep yellow/light golden tints; aromas of almond pastry and orange blossom.
Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration. Very good acidity, bright fruit.
Lovely complexity, excellent persistence and a notable creaminess in the finish.
Gorgeous wine in beautiful condition – enjoy now and over the next 5-7 years. *****
2011 ROSSO PICENO “PONGELLI”
Villa Bucci also produces a lovely Rosso Piceno; this classic bottling is a blend of 50%
Montepulciano and 50% Sangiovese that was aged in large casks (40 HL or 4000 liters).
Scarlet/light purple; aromas of black raspberry, cranberry, myrtle and lavender.
Medium-bodied with very good concentration. Light tannins and good acidity. Good
persistence and freshness. A charming wine to be enjoyed over the next 2-3 years. ***
2008 VILLA BUCCI ROSSO PICENO RISERVA
A blend of 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese. Aromas of black cherry, lavender,
red roses and black plum. Medium-weight tannins, very good acidity and light spice in
the finish. Notable persistence, style and excellent complexity- enjoy over the next 5-7
years. ****
Imported by Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA
First day of harvest of Verdicchio grapes at Villa Bucci, October 18, 2013
(Photo ©Tom Hyland)
SANTA BARBARA • BARBARA
This is one of Marche’s leading wine estates, best known for their Verdicchio dei
Castelli di Jesi. While the entry level is a wine of good balance and typicity, it is the
Stefanio Antonucci wines – named for the irrepressible owner of the firm – that really
show off the loveliness of Verdicchio. They also produce a wonderful Rosso Piceno
known as “Maschio di Monte,” which is among the top red wines of Marche.
2012 VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI “LE VAGLIE”
Light yellow with golden tints; aromas of lilacs, Anjou pear and jasmine. Mediumbodied with very good concentration. Very fresh with very good acidity. Excellent
persistence with beautiful varietal focus. Lovely complexity – enjoy over the next 3-5
years. Very impressive! ****
2011 VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI “STEFANO ANTONUCCI RISERVA”
While the “Le Vaglie” Riserva is aged only in stainless steel, the Stefano Antonucci
Riserva is barrique-aged. Bright, deep yellow with golden tints. Expressive aromas of
almond, Anjou pear, orange blossom and chamomile. Full-bodied with excellent
concentration. Lush mid-palate, outstanding persistence and very good acidity.
Outstanding complexity and a long, flavorful finish. Great, great wine! Enjoy now or
over the next 7-10 years. *****
2009 VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI “TARDIVO MA NON TARDO”
The name of this wine is a nice play on words, meaning “late harvest, but not too late.”
Light yellow with golden tints. Beautiful aromas of grapefruit, green tea and a touch of
honey. Lush mid-palate. Bright fruit, excellent persistence, very good acidity. Excellent
structure and complexity, this is to some degree, reminiscent of a Premier Cru or Grand
Cru Chablis. Marvelous wine! Enjoy over the next 7-10 years. *****
2012 SAUVIGNON “ANIMALE CELESTE”
Light yellow; classic aromas of hay, snap pea and lime. Medium-full with excellent
concentration. Excellent persistence, very good acidity, beautiful complexity. Racy and
ripe, this gets your attention, yet is is perfectly balanced. Enjoy now, though a bit of
time will reveal greater complxities; best in 3-5 years. ****
2010 ROSSO PICENO “MASCHIO DI MONTE”
100% Montepulciano aged in barriques for 18 months. Bright purple; aromas of ripe
black cherry, black raspberry, vanilla and clove. Full-bodied with excellent
concentration. Rich, ripe and mouthwatering, this is a beautifully balanced wine with
very good acidity, youtful tannins, nicely integrated wood notes and excellent
persistence. Notes of cinnamon on the palate and in the finish. Lovely wine! This has
the structure and grip to age for 15-20 years. *****
2010 PATHOS
A blend of 1/3 each of Cabernet Sauvignon, Montepulciano and Syrah. Bright purple;
aromas of myrtle, blackberry and tar. Rich, ripe, forward and unabashedly modern.
Youthful tannins, balanced acidity and notable persistence. Best in 7-10 years. ***
2006 STEFANO ANTONUCCI RISERVA VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI
Served from magnum. Deep yellow, hint of gold. Excellent complexity, very good
ripeness, big spice in finish, excellent persistence. Marvelous complexity, beautiful
wine. Enjoy now- peak in 5-7 years. *****
COLONNARA • CUPRAMONTANA
Colonnara is arguably the finest cooperative winery of Marche and certainly one of the
msot accomplished in Italy. The focus is on the Verdicchio grape in several forms, as
they produce both sparkling and dry table versions; the Caprese bottling is a marvelous
Verdicchio that ages extremely well.
“UBALDO ROSSI” METODO CLASSICO BRUT RISERVA 2007
100% Verdicchio; the wine speant five years on the lees. Light yellow, good persistence
in the perlage. Aromas of fresh lemon, green tea, Bosc pear and dried yellow flowers.
Medium-full with very good concentration. Excellent persistence, quite dry with lovely
balance. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. ****
2012 VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI “CUPRESE”
Deep yellow with golden tints; lovely aromas with notes of jasmine and lemon zest.
Medium-full with very good concentration. Very appealing flavors, this is delicious and
has very good acidity and notable persistence. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years, although it
may be drinking well for a few additional years. ****
2010 VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI “CUPRESE”
Deep yellow with light golden tints. Lovely tropical fruit aromas of mango and
honeysuckle. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Lovely texture and structure.
Rich mid-palate, lush fruit, perfect ripeness. Beautiful acidity and harmony with
excellent persistence. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. *****
2001 VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI “CUPRESE”
Brilliant deep yellow with golden tints; aromas of kiwi and dried pear with a hint of
petrol. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Rich mid-palate, notable persistence,
ideal balance and a distinct earthiness in the finish. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. ****
1991 VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI “CUPRESE”
Golden yellow; aromas of dried honey, geranium and yellow flowers. Medium-full
with excellent concentration. Outstanding persistence, vibrant acidity, long long finish.
Rich texture and marvelous balance – outstanding! Still fresh with another 5-7 years of
life ahead of it. *****
2009 TORNAMAGNO (IGT Marche Rosso)
A blend of Montepulciano and Sangiovese with a tiny percentage of Cabernet
Sauvignon. Scarlet/bright ruby red; aromas of black plum and thyme .Medium-bodied
with very good concentration. Balanced acidity, medium weight tannins and nicely
integrated wood notes. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. ***
2011 ROSSO CONERO “NERO DI DORI”
100% Montepulciano. Bright purple; aromas of black raspberry, myrtle and violets.
Round, clean finish with soft tannins, good acidity and persistence along with a hint of
tobacco. Pleasant, tasty wine for enjoyment over the next 2-3 years. ***
2012 LACRIMA DI MORRO D’ALBA
Bright purple; aormas of black plum, clove, tar and mocha. Medium-bodied; good
ripeness and acidity, though the tannins are a bit sharp at present. Enjoy over the next
2-3 years. **
SARTARELLI • POGGIO SAN MARCELLO
BRUT
The vintage is not listed on the label, but all the grapes are from the 2012 vintage. 100%
Verdicchio. Straw/light yellow with a delicate perlage; aromas of white peach, white
flowers and lime. Medium-bodied, this has a round finish with good persistence. Enjoy
over the next 1-2 years. ***
2012 VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO
Straw/light yellow; aromas of Bosc pear, lilacs and a hint of apple peel. Mediumbodied, this is clean with good typicity, although it lacks complexity. Enjoy over the
next 2-3 years. ***
2012 VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO “TRALIVIO”
These are estate grapes from vines that 3-40 years old. Straw-light yellow with golden
tints; aromas of lemon peel, acacia flowers and jasmine. Medium-bodied with very
good concentration. Nicely balanced with good persistence. Enjoy over the next 3-5
years. ***
2010 VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI “BALCIANA”
The Balciana is mde from late harvest grapes. Light yellow; aromas of dried pear, honey
and a hint of jellied candy. Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration.
Impressive prersistence. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. ****
GAROFOLI • LORETO
Under the leadership of Daria Garofoli, this has become one of the leading producers of
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. The “Podium” bottling is a particular favorite.
2011 VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI “PODIUM”
Straw/light yellow; aromas of fresh red apple, jasmine and peony. Medium-full with a
rich mid-palate. Lovely balance, impressive persistence and good acidity. Enjoy over
the next 3-5 years. ****
2006 GAROFOLI “SELEZIONE- GIACCHINO GAROFOLI” (Verdicchio dei Castelli)
Light yellow; lovely aromas of Anjou pear and dried yellow flowers. Medium-full with
very good concentration. Lovely texture, very good acidity and excellent persistence
with notes of spice and cinnamon in the finish. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. ****
2008 VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO RISERVA “SERRA
FIORESE”
Fermented and aged in barrique; light yellow with aromas of almond and dried pear.
Medium-full with very good concentration. Good complexity, but the fruit is somewhat
diminished by the wood notes. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. ***
2010 ROSSO CONERO “PIANCARDA”
100% Montepulciano. Deep garnet/scarlet; aromas of black plum, raspberry and a hint
of licorice. Medium-bodied, this is nicely balanced and straightforward with soft
tannins and good acidity. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. ***
More reviews of Garofoli wines on the next page
GAROFOLI (continued)
2008 GROSSO AGONTANO (ROSSO CONERO RISERVA)
100% Montepulciano; aged in barriques for 18 months. Deep ruby red/light purple;
aromas of black plum and thyme; Medium-bodied with very good concentration. Very
good acidity and persistence; round, complex finish. Easy-drinking, this is very well
made with proper varietal focus. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. ***
2006 GIOACCHINO GAROFOLI ROSSO CONERO RISERVA
Deep ruby red/light purple; aromas of blackberry, tar and vanilla. Medium-full with
very good concentration. Soft tannins, round and polished, good acidity and excellent
persistence. The oak is noticeable, but nicely integrated. Plenty of stuffing here, so no
need to open this, as it will be at its best in 10-12 years. ****
Daria Garofoli (Photo ©Tom Hyland)
MONTEFALCO SAGRANTINO
One of Italy’s most distinctive wines – and there are thousands – is Montefalco
Sagrantino, a wine produced exclusively from the Sagrantino grape that is planted only
in a small area in central Umbria (this area is centered around the town of Montefalco
and is not far from Spoleto and Assisi.)
Sagrantino is one of the most tannic varieties found anywhere in the world – it is even
more tannic than Nebbiolo – so this is a wine that can age for many years or decades.
Yet the success rate with this wine has not come anywhere near that of the best wines
made from Nebbiolo, such as Barolo or Barbaresco. This is where I have a problem with
this wine.
I first encountered this wine about a dozen years ago and attended a preview tasting in
the town of Montefalco about eight years ago. The quality was quite good, especially
from the producers who aged their wines in large casks in the traditional manner.
Producers who employed this method, such as Antonelli and Collealdole, made the
finest wines in my opinion. Other producers that matured their wines in barriques,
made flashier wines that seemed aimed at big scores in a few influential wine
publications., yet their wines were not balanced.
This year for the anteprima tasting, 2009 was the current release. Now 2009 was a
relatively warm year, so the wines are big with balanced, but not high acidity. This
resulated in ripe, powerful wines that lacked finesse and elegance, generally speaking.
There are exceptions of course, but 2009 is not a signifigant year for this wine. Yes, these
are big wienes and need time, but I’ve tasted enough vintages of this wine when young
to know that many of these 2009s will not come around gracefully.
Bottom line as well – I don’t see the qualilty of these wines on the rise over the past
decade. Producers in many cases still struggle to tame the tannins and make a more
elegant style of Montefalco Sagrantino; as I wrote earlier, a few have succeeded, but a
lot more work needs to be done.
2009 SAGRANTINO
**** EXCELLENT
LE CIMATE
Bright ruby red; aromas of red cherry, sage, nutmeg and cedar. Medium-full with very
good concentration. Very good acidity, lovely balance and beautiful expression of place.
Not the biggest wine, but one of the most elegant and satisfying. Best in 7-10 yearsperhaps longer.
ROMANELLI
Deep garnet; aromas of cherry, truffle and balsamic. Medium-full with youthful
tannins, excellent persistence and balanced acidity. A bit sharp now, but this should
roud out nicely. Best in 10-12 years.
2009 SAGRANTINO (continued)
**** EXCELLENT
DI FILIPPO
Bright ruby red; aromas of tobacco, red cherry and thyme. Medium-full with very good
concentration. Balanced acidity – perhaps a touch too much oak, but impressive
persistence. Best in 10-12 years.
***VERY GOOD
TENUTA BELLAFONTE
Bright ruby red; aromas of red cherry, cedar, thyme and dried red flowers. Medium-full
with very good concentration. Nicely integrated wood and balanced tannins.
Distinctive red spice in the finish. Best in 10-12 years.
MILZIADE ANTANO
Bright ruby red; rustic aromas – tobacco, thyme and sage. Medium-full with very good
concentration. Balanced tannins, good acidity, impressive persistence. Best in 7-10
years.
ANDREA ALESSANDRI
Bright ruby red; aromas of black plum, tar, tobacco and clove. Medium-full with very
good concentration. Big extract – quite ripe. Definitely a bit modern; balanced acidity.
Best in 12-15 years.
ARNALDO CAPRAI “COLLEPIANO”
Bright, deep ruby red; aromas of vanilla, black cherry and tar. Medium-full with very
good concentration. Impressive persistence, balanced acidity, slightly bitter finish. Give
time to round out – best in 10-12 years.
FUCELLI
Bright ruby red; aromas of black cherry, vanilla, mint and tar. Medium-full with very
good concentration. Modern style, but nicely balanced. Best in 7-10 years.
ARNALDO CAPRAI “25 ANNI”
Bright ruby red; aromas of vanilla, ripe red cherry, red poppies and sage. Medium-full
with very good to excellent concentration. Ripe, forward and flashy with ample oak;
balanced acidity and impressive persistence. This is not my style, as I prefer a
traditionally made wine from this area (such as Antonelli or Collealdole); so you may
like this wine much better than I do and certainly this is one of Montefalco’s bestknown wines. However to me the oak covers up the fruit, so it is difficult to find much
varietal character here and as for terroir, well, I don’t see it. Best in 10-12 years, but will
it round out?
** GOOD
FRATELLI PARDI
Bright ruby red; aromas of cedar, dried cherry and dried herbal notes. Medium-bodied,
this has moderate depth of fruit and persistence with balanced acidity. The finish is a bit
short. Best in 5-7 years.
MONTEFALCO SAGRANTINO (continued)
2008
**** EXCELLENT
CANTINA RIALTO
Bright ruby red; aromas of tobacco, sweet red cherry, currant and red roses. Mediumfull with very good to excellent concentration. Youthful, balanced tannins, excellent
persistence and very good acidity. A graceful, well-made wine. Best in 10-12 years –
perhaps longer.
BRIZIARELLI “VITRUVIO”
Deep garnet; aromas of red cherry, sweet tobacco, a hint of chocolate and floral notes.
Medium-full with very good concentration. Nicely balanced, young tannins, good
persistence and varietal character. Best in 10-12 years.
TABARRINI “COLLE ALLA CERQUA”
Deep garnet/light ruby red; aromas of currant, cassis and charred meat. Medium-full
with very good concentration. Very good acidity, excellent persistence and lovely
balance. Best in 10-12 years.
*** VERY GOOD
TERRE DE LA CUSTODIA
Bright ruby red; aromas of cedar, dried cherry and dried roses. Medium-full with very
good concentration. Balanced acidity and young tannins that are a bit sharp now. Give
time – best in 7-10 years.
COLPRETONE
Deep garnet/light ruby red; aromas of vanilla, black cherry, tar, licorice and a hint of
pepper. Medium-full with very good concentration. Balanced acidity and rich tannins.
This is definitely a modern style with ample oak. Best in 10-12 years.
ARNALDO CAPRAI “COLLEPIANO”
Bright ruby red; aromas of vanilla, red cherry and tar. Medium-full with very good
concentration. Very good persistence, good acidity and youthful tannins. Modern style
with ample oak. Best in 12-15 years.
ROCCA DI FABBRI
Aromas of black plum, tar and tobacco. Medium-full, this has balanced acidity, good
ripeness and tannins that are a bit sharp now. Not a big wine, but overall nicely
balanced. Best in 7-10 years.
ANTONELLI
Inviting aromas of cedar, drued cherry, clove and tar. Medium-full with very good
concentration. A bit astringent now, but this should round out nicely as the tannins do
not dominate and there is very good acidity. Best in 7-10 years – should age ever longer.
MONTEFALCO DI SAGRANTINO
2008
** GOOD
DI FILIPPO
Bright ruby red; aromas of red cherry, sage and vanilla. Medium-full, this is quite tannic
with balanced acidity and good persistence. A Sagrantino made like too many of the
past, leading to the question – will it age gracefully? Best in 7-10 years.
LUNGAROTTI
Bright ruby red; aromas of tobacco, red cherry and dried red flowers. Medium-full, this
has good acidity, big, astringent tannins and good persistence; unfortunately there is
also an trace of volatile acidity. Best in 10-12 years.
2007
COLLECIOCCO
Bright ruby red; inviting aromas of red cherry and red roses. Medium-full with very
good to excellent concentration. Good acidity, nice overall balance and well-integrated
tannins and wood notes. Best in 10-12 years. ****
NOVELLI
Deep garnet; aromas of cedar, red cherry, a hint of thyme and dried flowers. Mediumfull with very good concentration. Youthful tannins, finely tuned. Good acidity and a
round finish with balanced tannins. Best in 10-12 years. ***
2006
DIONIGI
Bright ruby red; aromas of black cherry, thyme and sage. Medium-full with very good
to excellent concentration. Excellent persistence, good acidity and impressive balance.
Give time – best in 12-15 years. ***
LA VENERANDA
Bright ruby red; aroms of cedar, although the fruit notes are a bit closed. Medium-full
with very good concentration. Medium-full, this has a slightly short finish. Best in 10-12
years. **
COLPRETONE “GOLD”
Bright ruby red; aromas of black cherry and vanilla. Medium-full with very good to
excellent concentration. Ripe, rich and forward, this is definitely a modern wine that
flaunts ripeness over balance. Best in 10-12 years. **
SAGRANTINO MONTEFALCO (continued)
OLDER BOTTLINGS
2005 POGGIO TURRI
Bright ruby red; aromas of black cherry, black plum, tar and anise. Medium-full with
very good concentration. Quite ripe, but not overdone. Impressive persistence and good
acidity. Best in 7-10 years. ****
1999 ANTONELLI
Light ruby red; expressive aromas of red cherry, thyme and orange peel. Medium-full,
this has very good acidity, subtle wood notes and notable persistence with well
rounded tannins. Lovely varietal focus. Enjoy over the next 7-10 years. ****
1999 ADANTI
Light ruby red; aromas of truffle, cherry, sage and thyme – very nice! Medium-full with
very good concentration. Nice overall balance, very good acidity and a nice sense of
place. Enjoy now and over the next 5-7 years. ****
2003 TENUTA CASTELBUONO
Tenuta Castelbuono, also known as Carapace for the unique design of its main building
(carapace in Italian means “tortoise shell”), is the Montefalco estate of the Lunelli family,
the proprietors of Ferrari metodo classico sparkling wines from Trento in northern Italy.
The wines are as impressive as the facillity (see photo on opening page). Bright ruby
red; aromas of black plum, licorice, cedar and a hint of lavender. Very good acidity (not
all the common in 2003), impressive persistence and nice overall balance. Very nice
varietal purity. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. ****
2001 ROCCA DI FABBRI
Bright ruby red; aromas of black plum, black cherry and vanilla. Medium-full with very
good concentration. Very good ripeness, medium-weight tannins, very good acidity
and varietal character. Enjoy over the next 7-10 years. ****
Roberta Vitale, Rocca di Fabbri (Photo ©Tom Hyland)