Featured Review Wine
Nino Franco, Vino Spumante (Italy) Vintage
“Grave di Stecca Millesimato Brut 2010”
This wine is sourced from a single, limestone-rich site in which the vines are trained in
cordon fashion and farmed sustainably. The appellation authorities found it too atypical
to permit it designation under the DOCG, so you’ll find reference neither to
Valdobbiadene nor Prosecco on the label (despite the fact that it is sourced from a prime
site and made entirely from Glera). The authorities had a point, I suppose, as the wine
is indeed highly atypical, but had I been in charge, I’d have decided in a millisecond to
keep this associated with my appellation. In any case, this is a late-released,
thrillingly mineral-drive wine from stem to stern, though delicate fruit is also
present in the aromas, flavors and finish. Finished with just 7 grams per liter of
sugar, this is close to as intricately complex as a Prosecco can be.
Call it what you will, but for me, this is one of the most enduringly interesting wines I’ve
ever tasted from this region and grape. And by the way, it can even hold up over time:
I also tasted the 2008, which showed only positive oxidative characters and was every
bit as good as the 2010, based on different strengths.
93 Michael Franz Oct 1, 2013
Nino Franco, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG
(Veneto, Italy) Dry Vintage
“Primo Franco” 2012
I lean pretty strongly toward the dry side of the Prosecco continuum,
but this wine is so irresistibly delicious that neither I nor anyone else could fault it on
grounds of sweetness. The highly expressive aromas waft up from the glass with scents
of spring flowers and ripe peaches, and the flavors recall the juices at the bottom of the
bowl of the best fruit salad you ever enjoyed. This isn’t the most “serious” Prosecco you
can find, but it is certainly among the most endearing.
92 Michael Franz Oct 1, 2013
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Nino Franco, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut
(Veneto, Italy) Vintage “Vignetto Della Riva di San Floriano”
Made from a steep site overlooking the town of Valdobbiadene,
this shows a gorgeous delicacy in its bouquet as well as a very soft, creamy
mouthfeel resulting from a full 3 months of contact with its gross lees after the first
fermentation. Although it is designated as brut, you’ll find flavors recalling marmalade
and candied orange peel, but the well-integrated acidity cleans up the finish beautifully.
91 Michael Franz Oct 1, 2013
Nino Franco, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut
(Veneto, Italy) “Rustico” NV
This is finished with 11 grams per liter of residual sugar, which places it at the sweeter
end of the brut Prosecco spectrum, but the balance will work well even for those who
favor dry sparklers. A delicate floral note gets this off to a good start aromatically, and
the soft, pleasantly sweet mid-palate draws focus from fresh acidity in the finish.
90 Michael Franz Oct 1, 2013
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