∂ÙÔÈÌ·Û›· ÙˆÓ µ·ÚÂÏÈÒÓ ÛÙ· ÔÔ›· Ì·›ÓÂÈ ÙÔ ÎÚ·Û› Ù˘ Ó¤·˜ ÂÛԉ›·˜. ∂À ∑∏¡ Preparation of the barrels in which the new vintage will be placed. ™Ù·Ê‡ÏÈ ÔÈÎÈÏ›·˜ gamay. Variety of Gamay grapes. ™Ù·Ê‡ÏÈ ÔÈÎÈÏ›·˜ Chardonnay. Variety of Chardonnay grapes. R omanée-C onti The Most Expensive Wine in the World ∆Ô ÈÔ ∞̤ÏÈ· µÔ˘ÚÁÔ˘Ó‰›·˜ ÙÔÓ ¯ÂÈÌÒÓ· ·ÎÚÈ‚fi ÎÚ·Û› ÙÔ˘ ÎfiÛÌÔ˘ A¶O T∏N / BY: PIERRE-MARIE DE SAINT-JULIEN ª∂∆∞ºƒ∞™∏/TRANSLATION: IRINI ARCHOLEONTOS Burgundy vines in the winter. ∫·Ï¿ıÈ ÁÂÌ¿ÙÔ Ì ÛٷʇÏÈ· pinot noir Basket full of pinot noir grapes ™Ù·Ê‡ÏÈ ÔÈÎÈÏ›·˜ Chardonnay. Variety of Chardonnay grapes. µ¿Î¯Ô˜, 18Ô˜ ·ÈÒÓ·˜. ªÔ˘ÛÂ›Ô ÙÔ˘ ÎÚ·ÛÈÔ‡ Ù˘ µÔ˘ÚÁÔ˘Ó‰›·˜. ∂À ∑∏¡ Bacchus, 18th century. Burgundy wine museum. F ™ÎËÓ‹ ∆Ú‡ÁÔ˘ ·fi ÙËÓ ÂÎÎÏËÛ›· Moutiers-saint-Jean (12Ô˜ ·ÈÒÓ·˜). Scene of the harvest from the Moutiers-saint-Jean church (12th century). ¶ ÚÒÙÔ ÛÙÔÓ Î·Ù¿ÏÔÁÔ ·fi Ù· ÂηÙfi ÎÚ·ÛÈ¿ Ô˘, ıˆÚËÙÈο, ı· Ú¤ÂÈ Î·Ó›˜ Ó· ‰ÔÎÈÌ¿ÛÂÈ ÚÈÓ ÂÁηٷÏ›„ÂÈ ÙÔÓ Ì¿Ù·ÈÔ ÂÙÔ‡ÙÔ ÎfiÛÌÔ Â›Ó·È, Û‡Ìʈӷ Ì ÙÔ ·ÁÁÏÈÎfi Decanter (ÔÈÓÔÏÔÁÈÎfi ÂÚÈÔ‰ÈÎfi), ÙÔ Romanée-Conti, ÙÔ Ó¤ÎÙ·Ú Ô˘ Ë ÙÈÌ‹ ÙÔ˘ ‰ÂÓ ¤¯ÂÈ Ù›ÔÙ· Ó· ˙ËϤ„ÂÈ ·fi ÂΛÓË ÙÔ˘ ¯Ú˘ÛÔ‡. ∞˜ ÛËÌÂȈı› fiÙÈ Ù· ÙÚ›· ·fi Ù· ‰¤Î· ÚÒÙ· ÎÚ·ÛÈ¿ ÙÔ˘ «ÎÔÏ·Ṳ̂ÓÔ˘ ηٷÏfiÁÔ˘» ÚÔ¤Ú¯ÔÓÙ·È ·fi ÙÔ ÎÙ‹Ì· Romanée-Conti ¤Ó·Ó ·fi ÙÔ˘˜ ·Ï·ÈfiÙÂÚÔ˘˜ ·ÌÂÏÒÓ˜ Ù˘ µÔ˘ÚÁÔ˘Ó‰›·˜ Ô˘ ÙÚÔÊÔ‰ÔÙÔ‡ÛÂ, ¿Ï·È ÔÙ¤, Ù· ÙÚ·¤˙È· ÙˆÓ ‚·ÛÈϤˆÓ Ù˘ °·ÏÏ›·˜. ∞ÏÏ¿ Î·È ÛÙËÓ ÂÔ¯‹ Ù˘ ¢ËÌÔÎÚ·Ù›·˜ –Ù˘ ªÔÓ·Ú¯›·˜ ·ÚÂÏıÔ‡Û˘– fiÛÔÈ Â›Ó·È ÔÈ Â˘Ù˘¯ÈṲ̂ÓÔÈ ıÓË114 OnBlue ÙÔ› Ô˘ ı· ÌÔÚÔ‡Û·Ó Ó· Û˘Óԉ‡ÛÔ˘Ó ¤Ó· ÏÔ˘ÎÔ‡ÏÏÂÈÔ Á‡̷ Ì ÙÔ ÔχÙÈÌÔ ·˘Ùfi pinot noir; (ÔÈÎÈÏ›· Îϛ̷ÙÔ˜ ÁÓˆÛÙ‹ ·fi ÙÔÓ ªÂÛ·›ˆÓ·) ª¿ÏÏÔÓ ÂÏ¿¯ÈÛÙÔÈ ·Ó Ï¿‚ÂÈ Î·Ó›˜ ˘fi„Ë fiÙÈ ÙÔÓ πÔ‡ÓÈÔ ÙÔ˘ 2006 ¤Ó· ÌÔ˘Î¿ÏÈ, ÂÛԉ›·˜ 1959, Ô˘Ï‹ıËΠ۠‰ËÌÔÚ·Û›· ¤Ó·ÓÙÈ 7.552 €. ŸÙ·Ó οÔÙ ÚÒÙËÛ·Ó ÙÔÓ cardinal de Bernis ÁÈ·Ù› ÙÔ ÎÚ·Û› Ô˘ ¯ÚËÛÈÌÔÔÈÔ‡Û ÁÈ· ÙËÓ ∂˘¯·ÚÈÛÙ›· ‹Ù·Ó ¤Ó· ·fi Ù· ÈÔ ·ÎÚÈ‚¿, Ô ·ıÂfiÊÔ‚Ô˜ ÏÈÌÂÚÙ›ÓÔ˜-ηډÈÓ¿ÏÈÔ˜ ·¿ÓÙËÛÂ: °È·Ù› ‰ÂÓ ı¤Ïˆ Ó· Ì ‚ϤÂÈ Ô ¶·ÓÙÔ‰‡Ó·ÌÔ˜ Ó· οӈ ÁÎÚÈÌ¿ÙÛ˜. ∏ ·Ú¿‰ÔÛË ı¤ÏÂÈ ÙÔÓ Î·Ú‰ÈÓ¿ÏÈÔ Î·È Û‡Á¯ÚÔÓÔ ÙÔ˘ ∫·˙·Ófi‚· (Ô ÙÂÏÂ˘Ù·›Ô˜ Ì¿ÏÈÛÙ· οÓÂÈ ÏfiÁÔ ÁÈ· ÙÔÓ de Bernis ÛÙËÓ πÛÙÔÚ›· Ù˘ ˙ˆ‹˜ ÌÔ˘) Ó· ¯ÚËÛÈÌÔÔÈ› ¤Ó· ·fi irst on the top-100 list of wines that one has to taste during their life-time, according to the British wine magazine, Decanter, Romanée-Conti, is like nectar, whose price is nothing short to that of gold. It should be noted that three of the top ten wines of thas list are produced in the Romanée-Conti winery, one of the oldest in Burgundy, that used to be the main supplier for the royal cellars of France. Even nowadays, the age of Democracy, who can, realistically, accompany a meal with the precious pinot noir (a variety known since the Middle Ages)? Very few can enjoy such a privilege, considering that a bottle of pinot noir of 1959 was sold for 7,552 € at an auction, in June 2006. When Cardinal de Bernis was once asked why the wine he used for the Eucharist was one of the most expensive, he answered blatantly: Because I don’t want the Almighty to see me grimace. Tradition has it that the cardinal, a contemporary of Casanova (the latter mentions the cardinal in his book Story of my Life) used one of the most pricey Meursault, product of Burgundy itself, a diamond in the rough amongst white wines. The same cardinal, and ambassador of the French Throne to Venice, declared boldly once: I would choose paradise for its good climate and hell for its good company! Good company, naturally, presupposes good wine. If we stretched this philosophy to its extreme, we could deduce that in hell – even a hell of an auction – one is certain to find a few liters of the aforementioned rare red nectar. National pride, state secret, intangible dream or culinary superiority, the bottles of RomanéeConti that can be counted on the fingers of one ∂À ∑∏¡ Ù·Í›‰È· ÙˆÓ ÂÏÏ‹ÓˆÓ ÂÌfiÚˆÓ ÛÙËÓ ª·ÛÛ·Ï›· Î·È ÙË ¡›Î·È·Ø ÔÈ ·ÌÂÏÒÓ˜ Ù˘ µÔ˘ÚÁÔ˘Ó‰›·˜ Â›Ó·È ÔÈ ·Ï·ÈfiÙÂÚÔÈ Ù˘ ∂ÛÂÚ›·˜. ∆Ô 1631 Ù· ·Ì¤ÏÈ· Ù˘ Vosne ·ÁÔÚ¿˙ÔÓÙ·È ·fi ÙËÓ ÔÈÎÔÁ¤ÓÂÈ· Croonembourg Ô˘ ÙÔ 1760 ·ÔÊ·Û›˙ÂÈ Ó· Ù· Ô˘Ï‹ÛÂÈ. ∏ ÒÏËÛË Ê¤ÚÓÂÈ ·ÓÙÈÌ¤ÙˆÔ˘˜ ÙËÓ Âڈ̤ÓË ÙÔ˘ §Ô˘‰Ô‚›ÎÔ˘ πEã, ¶ÚÔÂÙÔÈÌ·Û›· ÁÈ· ÙË ‰ÔÎÈÌ‹ ÙÔ˘ Romanée-Conti Ù˘ Ó¤·˜ ÂÛԉ›·˜. Madame de Pompadour Î·È ÙÔÓ Ú›ÁÎÈ· Louis-François de Preparation for the tasting of Bourbon-Conti, Ô ÔÔ›Ô˜ ÎÂÚ‰›˙ÂÈ the new vintage of Romanée-Conti. ÙË Ì¿¯Ë Î·È ¤ÎÙÔÙ ÛÙÔ ÎÙ‹Ì·, Ù· ÈÔ ·ÎÚÈ‚¿ Meursault ÚÔ˚fiÓ Î·È ·˘Ùfi Ù˘ fiˆ˜ Î·È ÛÙÔ ÎÚ·Û›, ÚÔÛÙ›ıÂÙ·È ÙÔ «Ë¯ËÚfi» ı·˘Ì·ÛÙ‹˜ µÔ˘ÚÁÔ˘Ó‰›·˜, «¤ÚÏ· Û¿ÓÈ·» fiÓÔÌ· ÙˆÓ Conti. ÌÂٷ͇ ÙˆÓ Ï¢ÎÒÓ. √ ÂÓ ÏfiÁˆ ηډÈÓ¿ÏÈÔ˜ ∆Ô ÎÙ‹Ì· Î·È Ù· ÎÚ·ÛÈ¿ ÙÔ˘ ¤˙ËÛ·Ó ÙËÓ Î·È Ú¤Û‚Ë˜ ÙÔ˘ °¿ÏÏÔ˘ ÕÓ·ÎÙ· ÛÙË µÂÓÂÙ›· ÂÚȤÙÂÈ· Ù˘ °·ÏÏÈ΋˜ ∂·Ó¿ÛÙ·Û˘, ‹Ù·Ó ·˘Ùfi˜ Ô˘ ‰‹ÏˆÛ ·ÓÂÚ˘ıÚ›·ÛÙ·: £· ¤Ú·Û·Ó ·fi ¢ÁÂÓ›˜ Û ·ÛÙÔ‡˜ ·ÏÏ¿ Ì ¤ÏÂÁ· ÙÔÓ ·Ú¿‰ÂÈÛÔ ÁÈ· ÙÔ ˆÚ·›Ô Îϛ̷ ›ÛÌ· Î·È ˘ÂÚËÊ¿ÓÂÈ· ‰È·Ù‹ÚËÛ·Ó ÙÔÓ ÙÔ˘ Î·È ÙËÓ ÎfiÏ·ÛË ÁÈ· ÙËÓ Î·Ï‹ ·Ú¤·! ·ÚÈÛÙÔÎÚ·ÙÈÎfi ¯·Ú·ÎÙ‹Ú· ÙÔ˘˜ Î·È ÙÔ ∫·Ï‹ ·Ú¤· fï˜ ÚÔ¸Ôı¤ÙÂÈ Î·È Î·Ïfi fiÓÔÌ· ÙÔ˘ Ú›ÁÎÈ·. ∫·Ù¿ ÙË ¯ÚÔÓÈ΋ ÎÚ·Û›Ø ·Ó ÚÔ¯ˆÚÔ‡Û·Ì ÏÔÈfiÓ ÛÙ· ÂÚ›Ô‰Ô 1946-1951 Ë Ê˘ÏÏÔÍ‹Ú· ¿ÎÚ· ÙÔÓ «ÊÈÏÔÛÔÊÈÎfi» ·Ú·ÏÔÁÈÛÌfi ¤ÏËÍ ٷ ÎÏ‹Ì·Ù· ÙÔ˘ Romanée-Conti Ì·˜ ı· ÌÔÚÔ‡Û·Ì ӷ ηٷϋÍÔ˘ÌÂ Î·È Ë ·Ú·ÁˆÁ‹ ÙÔ˘ ÛÙ·Ì¿ÙËÛ ÂÓÙÂÏÒ˜ ÛÙÔ Û˘Ì¤Ú·ÛÌ· fiÙÈ ÛÙËÓ ÎfiÏ·ÛË ÁÈ· Ó· ÍÂÎÈÓ‹ÛÂÈ ÌÂÙ¿ ·fi ÁÂÓÈ΋ ·Ó·Ó¤–¤ÛÙˆ Î·È ÎfiÏ·ÛË ‰ËÌÔÚ·ÛÈÒÓ– ˆÛË. ¶¤Ú·Ó Ù˘ Û¿ÓÈ·˜ ÔÈfiÙËÙ·˜, Ô Û›ÁÔ˘Ú· ı· ˘¿Ú¯Ô˘Ó ÌÂÚÈο Ï›ÙÚ· ÈÛÙÔÚÈÎfi˜ ¯·Ú·ÎÙ‹Ú·˜ ÙÔ˘ ÚÔÛ‰›‰ÂÈ Î·È ·fi ÙÔ Û¿ÓÈÔ ·˘Ùfi ÎfiÎÎÈÓÔ Ó¤ÎÙ·Ú. ÙÔ Î‡ÚÔ˜ ÙÔ˘ «Ì˘ıÈÎÔ‡» ·Á·ıÔ‡ Î·È ∂ıÓÈ΋ ˘ÂÚËÊ¿ÓÂÈ·, ÎÚ·ÙÈÎfi Ì˘ÛÙÈοÓÂÈ ÔÏÏÔ‡˜ Ó· ÙÔ ÔÓÂÈÚ‡ÔÓÙ·È… Îfi, ¿È·ÛÙÔ fiÓÂÈÚÔ, Á·ÛÙÚÈÌ·ÚÁÈ΋ °ÂÌ¿ÙÔ ¯¿ÚË, ÂÍ·ÈÚÂÙÈο ÏÂÙÔÊ˘¤˜ Î·È ËıÈ΋ ˘ÂÚÔ¯‹, Ù· ÌÂÙÚË̤ӷ ÛÙ· Ì fiÏ· Ù· ¯·Ú·ÎÙËÚÈÛÙÈο Ù˘ Á˘Ó·ÈΛ·˜ ‰¿ÎÙ˘Ï· ÙÔ˘ ÂÓfi˜ ¯ÂÚÈÔ‡ ÌÔ˘Î¿ÏÈ· ÎÔÌ„fiÙËÙ·˜ ÙÔ ÂÚȤÁÚ·„Â, Ô Aubert de ÙÔ˘ Romanée-Conti –ÚÔÂÚVillaine, ¤Ó·˜ ·fi ÙÔ˘˜ ÛËÌÂÚÈRomanée-St-Vivant ¤Ó· ¿ÏÏÔ ¯fiÌÂÓ· ·fi ÙËÓ Î¿‚· Ù˘ ·fi Ù· ÂÚ›ÊËÌ· ÎÚ·ÛÈ¿ Romanée. ÓÔ‡˜ ȉÈÔÎً٘ ÙÔ˘ ÎÙ‹Ì·ÙÔ˜ Ô˘ ¢ËÌ·Ú¯›·˜ ÙÔ˘ ¶·ÚÈÛÈÔ‡ Î·È ·Ú¿ÁÂÈ 3 Ì 6.000 ÌÔ˘Î¿ÏÈ· Romanée-St-Vivant, another ·ÁÔÚ·Ṳ̂ӷ, ηٿ ¿Û· Romanée-Conti ÂÙËÛ›ˆ˜. ∏ ÂÚÈÔfamous Romanée wine. Èı·ÓfiÙËÙ·, ·fi ÙÔÓ ÚÒËÓ ÚÈṲ̂ÓË ·Ú·ÁˆÁ‹ ˘Ô¯Ú¤ˆÛ ÚÔ¤‰ÚÔ Ù˘ °·ÏÏÈ΋˜ ¢ËÌÔÎÚ·Ù›·˜ Jacques ÙÔ˘˜ ȉÈÔÎً٘ Ó· ˘ÈÔıÂÙ‹ÛÔ˘Ó ¤Ó· Û‡ÛÙËÌ· Chirac, ÙÔÓ Î·ÈÚfi Ô˘ ‹Ù·Ó ¢‹Ì·Ú¯Ô˜– Ô˘ ÂÚÈÔÚÈÛÌ¤ÓˆÓ ˆÏ‹ÛˆÓ. ŸÔÈÔ˜, Ì ¿ÏÏ· Ô˘Ï‹ıËÎ·Ó Û ‰ËÌÔÚ·Û›·, ·ÂÙ¤ÏÂÛ·Ó ÁÈ· ÏfiÁÈ·, ÂÈı˘Ì› Ó· Á¢ı› ÙÔ ÔχÙÈÌÔ Ó¤ÎÙ·Ú Î¿ÔȘ ̤Ú˜ ÙÔ Î·˘Ùfi ı¤Ì· ÙÔ˘ Á·ÏÏÈÎÔ‡ ı· Ú¤ÂÈ Ó· ·Ú·ÁÁ›ÏÂÈ ¤Ó· ÎÈ‚ÒÙÈÔ Ì ‰Ò‰ÂÙ‡Ô˘. η ÂÎÏÂÎÙ¿ ÎÚ·ÛÈ¿ ÙÔ˘ ÎÙ‹Ì·ÙÔ˜ (LLa Tâche, ∆Ô ÎÙ‹Ì· Romanée-Conti ·Ú¿ÁÂÈ Ù· Richebourg Î·È Romanée Saint Vivant) ÌÂٷ͇ Û·ÓÈfiÙÂÚ· Î·È ·ÎÚÈ‚fiÙÂÚ· ÎÚ·ÛÈ¿ ÙÔ˘ ÙˆÓ ÔÔ›ˆÓ ¤Ó· Î·È ÌÔÓ·‰ÈÎfi ÌÔ˘Î¿ÏÈ ı· Â›Ó·È ÎfiÛÌÔ˘. ∆Ô 1232, 1,8 ÂÎÙ¿ÚÈ· ·Ì¤Romanée-Conti. ÏÔ˘ ÂÚȤگÔÓÙ·È ÛÙËÓ Î·ÙÔ¯‹ ÙÔ˘ √ ÔÏ˘‚Ú·‚Â˘Ì¤ÓÔ˜ ÛÂÊ ÙÔ˘ Lucas Carton ·‚·Â›Ô˘ ÙÔ˘ Saint Vivant, Ù˘ (¤Ó· ·fi Ù· ηχÙÂÚ· ÂÛÙÈ·ÙfiÚÈ· Ù˘ Á·ÏÏÈ΋˜ Vosne-Romanée (ÎÔÈÓfiÙËÙ·), Î·È ÚˆÙÂ‡Ô˘Û·˜), Alain Senderens, › Û ÌÈ· ÔÈ ÌÔÓ·¯Ô› ·Ó·Ï·Ì‚¿ÓÔ˘Ó Ó· ‰È¿ÏÂÍ‹ ÙÔ˘ ˆ˜ ¤Ú·Û ÔÏfiÎÏËÚ˜ Ó‡¯Ù˜ Û˘Ó¯›ÛÔ˘Ó ÌÈ· ·Ú¿‰ÔÛË Ô˘ Í¿ÁÚ˘ÓÔ˜ ÁÈ· Ó· ηٷʤÚÂÈ Ó· ηٷϋÍÂÈ Û ¤¯ÂÈ ÙȘ Ú›˙˜ Ù˘ ÛÙÔÓ ¤ÎÙÔ .à ¤Ó· ÌÂÓÔ‡ Ô˘ ı· ÂÓ·ÚÌÔÓÈ˙fiÙ·Ó Ì ÙÔ ÂÓ ÏfiÁˆ ·ÈÒÓ· Î·È ÛÙÂÓ‹ Û¯¤ÛË Ì ٷ ÎÚ·Û›. ªÂÙ¿ ·fi ÙË ‰‹ÏˆÛË ·˘Ù‹ Ù· Û¯fiÏÈ· ¤¯Ô˘Ó, ÓÔÌ›˙ˆ, ·Ï¿ Î·È ÌfiÓÔ, ı¤ÛË ÊÏ˘·Ú›·˜. Chassgne-Montrachet ∞Ó fï˜ οÔÈÔ˜ ÌÔ˘ ¤ıÂÙ ÙÔ ÂÚÒÙËÌ· ÁÈ· ¤Ó· ·fi Ù· ηχÙÂÚ· ÏÂ˘Î¿ ÙÔ ÓÂÚfi Ô˘ ¤ÁÈÓ ÎÚ·Û›, ÌÂÙ¿ ÙËÓ Â˘ÏÔÁ›· Ù˘ µÔ˘ÚÁÔ˘Ó‰›·˜. ÙÔ˘ πËÛÔ‡ ÛÙÔ˘˜ ÂÓ ∫·Ó¿ Á¿ÌÔ˘˜, ı· ··Chassgne-Montrachet ÓÙÔ‡Û· ·ÓÂÈʇϷÎÙ· ˆ˜ ÂÚfiÎÂÈÙÔ ÁÈ· One of the best white Burgundy Romanée-Conti ! wines. 116 OnBlue hand, coming from the cellar of the Paris City Hall - possibly bought by the former President of the French Democracy Jacques Chirac when he was Mayor- were sold at an auction and were on the spot light of the French media for days. The Romanée-Conti estate produces some of the rarest and priciest wines worldwide. In 1232, 1.8 hectars of vines came to the possession of the Saint Vivant Abbey of the Vosne-Romanée county and the monks took it upon them to continue a tradition that had its roots in the 6th century B.C. and a close relationship with the Greek merchants traveling to Marseille and Nice. The Burgundy vineyards are the oldest ones in Hesperia. In 1631, the vineyard of Vosne was bought by the Croonembourg family, who decided to put it on sale in 1760. That sale created a dispute between Louis IV’s mistress, Madame De Pompadour, and the prince Louis- François de Bourbon-Conti, who won the argument and added the noble name of the Conti’s to the name of the estate and the wine. The estate and the wine survived the French Revolution and passed from the hands of the nobility to the hands of the bourgeoisie but, proud and stubborn, always managed to maintain their aristocratic character and pride as well as the prince’s name. Between 1946 and1951, the Romanée-Conti vineyards were infested with phylloxera and production stopped altogether, to begin again after complete restructuring. Besides its rare superior quality, its historic character adds to the wine the quality of a legendary commodity and makes many wine connoisseurs dream of it… Aubert de Villane, one of the current owners of the estate described the wine as graceful, exceptionally delicate and with all the characteristics of feminine elegance. Today, the estate produces three to six thousand of Romanée-Conti bottles annually. Limited production has obliged the owners to adopt a system of limited sales. In other words, whoever wishes to savor the precious nectar should order a case of twelve assorted bottles by the estate (LLa Tâche, Richebourg and Romanée Saint Vivant) among which there will be a single bottle of Romanée-Conti. Alain Senderens, the award-winning chef of Lucas Carton (one of the best restaurant of the French capital) said at a keynote speech that he spent six sleepless nights to decide on a menu that would be a good match for the rare wine. This statement tops any other comment. If one asked me about the water that Jesus turned into wine at the Kana wedding, I would answer without reservation that it must have been Romanée-Conti.