©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Sicily POPULATION: 5 MILLION Why Go? Palermo......................... 746 Around Palermo............ 759 Cefalù ............................760 Lipari ............................. 763 Salina ............................ 766 Stromboli ...................... 768 Taormina ....................... 769 Catania .......................... 775 Syracuse ....................... 782 Noto .............................. 788 Ragusa ...........................791 Agrigento ...................... 792 Marsala ......................... 799 Trapani ......................... 800 Erice ..............................804 Segesta .........................805 More of a sugar-spiked espresso than a milky cappuccino, Sicily rewards visitors with an intense bittersweet experience. Here it seems the sun shines brighter, the shadows are darker, and life is lived full-on and for the moment. Overloaded with art treasures and natural beauty, undersupplied with infrastructure and continuously struggling against Mafia-driven corruption, Sicily’s complexities sometimes seem unfathomable. To really appreciate this place, come with an open mind – and a healthy appetite. Despite the island’s perplexing contradictions one factor remains constant: the uncompromisingly high quality of the cuisine. After 25 centuries of foreign domination, Sicilians are heirs to an impressive cultural legacy, from the refined architecture of Magna Graecia to the Byzantine splendour and Arab craftsmanship of the island’s Norman cathedrals and palaces. This cultural richness is matched by a startlingly diverse landscape that includes bucolic farmland, smouldering volcanoes and kilometres of island-studded aquamarine coastline. Best Places to Eat When to Go » Trattoria Ai Cascinari (p756) Palermo °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm 30/86 8/200 20/68 6/150 » Il Gallo e l’Innamorata (p800) 10/50 4/100 0/32 2/50 Best Places to Stay -10/14 » Quattro Gatti (p791) » Il Liberty (p789) » Isoco Guest House (p772) » Pensione Tranchina (p804) » Villa Athena (p797) 0 J F M February Almond blossoms float over temples and orchard-covered hills during Sagra del Mandorlo. A M J J A Easter Impassioned religious processions and marzipan lambs in every bakery window. S O N D May Spring weather, wildflowers and fewer crowds; a dreamy time for coastal walking. 744 History Sicily’s most deeply ingrained cultural influences originate from its first inhabitants – the Sicani from North Africa, the Siculi from Latium (Italy) and the Elymni from Greece. The subsequent colonisation of the island by ‚ Ferries to Naples Ferries to Naples ‚ ‚ Ferries to Genoa; Livorno the Carthaginians (also from North Africa) and the Greeks, in the 8th and 6th centuries BC respectively, compounded this cultural divide through decades of war when powerful opposing cities, such as Palermo and Catania, struggled to dominate the island. Tyrrhenian Sea Ferries to Cagliari ‚ 5 Aeolian Islands # Ustica Stromboli ‚ / ¼ / ¼ À 8 / ¼ Mediterranean Sea Golfo Vittòria # ] di Gela # ^ Pantelleria # Modica ] SS287 # \ ^ # 6 Noto # ÷ Syracuse Ionian Sea : Riserva # Pozzallo \ Naturale di Vendicari 50 km 20 miles Ferries to Pelagic Islands ‚ e # 0 0 8 À À# 8 Ragusa À 8 le Ib # ^ ‚ SICILY Malfa Panarea # Santa Marina Salina Filicudi \ # \ Alicudi Salina \ # Lipari # Quattropani \ Canneto Ferries to Villa Vulcano Cagliari San FalconeRiserva NaturaleBorsellino Giovanni # # \ Milazzo \ dello Zingaro – t # \# Mondello s # ^ a o 1 Palermo Erice # # ^ 7 # nC Messina a # \ # \ i # \ Trapani ^ en Montreale Parco \ # # Cefalù Tyr rh Scopello Marettimo A18 Naturale Regionale # Castelbuono \ Favignana ä # # Calatafimi \ i delle Madonie # ÷ #Birgi – Nebrod Linguaglossa 3 Segesta # Taormina \ 4 # # # \ # \ Egadi Islands \ # Parco # \ # Polizzi Petralia \ ÷R Corleone Naturale # Marsala A29 Generosa Sottana MtEtna dell'Etna # Mazara del Vallo \ # Rifugio Sapienza \ A19 SS189 # Nicolosi \ ä # # ^ Enna # Sciacca Caltanissettà Selinunte \ 2 Catania # # # ] Fontanarossa ^ # – Villa Piazza # \ Ionian Coast ä # Romana del Armerina Agrigento ^ #ä # Casale SS194 Valley of the Golfo di Mo nt Augusta Temples i Gela SS514 Ferries to Malta Sicily Highlights 1 Join the ranks of impeccably dressed operagoers at elegant Teatro Massimo in Palermo (p757) 2 Bargain with the fish vendors at dawn, climb Europe’s most active volcano in the afternoon and enjoy Sicily’s best nightlife in constantly buzzing Catania (p775) 3 Marvel at the majesty of Segesta (p805), whose Greek temple and amphitheatre sit in splendid isolation on a windswept hillside 4 Shop till you drop in Taormina (p769), or ply the turquoise waters in the sparkling coves below 5 Soak up the sun, watch Stromboli’s volcanic fireworks and hike to your heart’s content on the stunningly scenic Aeolian Islands (p762) 6 Wander aimlessly in Ortygia’s atmospheric alleys before settling in for an evening of classical drama at the fabled Greek theatre in Syracuse (p785) 7 Hike the rugged, undeveloped coastline and scan the sky for eagles at Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro (p804)