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VENICEMAGAZINE
VeniceMagazine mensile di informazione turistica e cultura - Anno 4 - N.27 febbraio 2005 - euro zero - sped a.p. 45% art. 2 comma 20/b legge 662/96 - DCI VE
the city guide
Focus on:
THE ENCHANTING
CONTARINI STAIRCASE
Special:
VENICE FROM BOTH SIDE
Tips:
ULTIMATE SHOPPING
USEFUL PAGE
  .
  .
NIO adv
Mexico Organic Finca Pacific
The Mexico Organic Finca Pacific is
gathered by the direct descendents
of the Maya. The coffee is rendered
unique and inimitable thanks to
the mild temperatures of those
lands. It is this month’s recommendation by Cafè del Doge. The
“Carta dei caffè”, offered in the
best restaurants, gives an idea of
the philosophy that inspires us.
Old-style roasting, blending process with cooled beans. To many
people they are only subtle hints;
to us they’re everything.
Sono i diretti discendenti dei Maya
a raccogliere il Mexico Organic
Finca Pacific. Le temperature miti
di quelle terre donano a questo
caffè un gusto unico, inimitabile. È
la proposta di questo mese da
Caffè del Doge. Perché per ogni
stagione ci sia il giusto aroma.
Perché la “Carta dei caffè”, offerta
nei migliori ristoranti, dia un senso
alla filosofia che ci muove.
Tostatura artigianale, miscelazione
a freddo. Per molti sono solo sfumature, per noi è tutto.
CAFFE’ DEL DOGE
NEW YORK
TOKIO
FRANKFURT
WIEN
BUDAPEST
VENEZIA
Calle dei Cinque
Ponte del Lovo
www.caffedeldoge.com
NIO adv
15 February 05 / 15 March 05

Low water.
Acqua bassa.
© Interpress
CONTENTS
4
FOCUS ON
The enchanting Contarini staircase. ...the Republic
banned by law the building of towers...
La magica chiocciola dei Contarini. ...la Repubblica
imped per legge la costruzione di torri...
8
8
9
MUSEUMS GUIDE
Carpaccio painter of stories
Costantin Brancusi. A homage to white
SPECIAL BRIDGES
Magazine-guide
Anno IV , n°27, febbraio 2005
mensile di informazione turistica
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Bulgari - 1930
Platinum ring realized by Sotirio Bulgari
Mixed cut diamonds 2,00kt
Oval cut natural Ceylon sapphire, top gem quality 6,54kt
Editore: Andrea Carnio
Società editrice: NIO s.r.l.
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Caporedattore: Samuele Costantini
Sviluppo grafico: Nicola Bernardi
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Hanno collaborato: Alegk, Riccardo Bon, Gianluca
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
ON SHOW
10 ON SHOW
Veronese - Myths, portraits, allegories. ...Paolo Caliari,
known as the Veronese, was summoned by the Inquisition...
Veronese - Miti, ritratti, allegorie. ...Paolo Caliari,
detto il Veronese, fu convocato dalla Inquisizione...
Veronese - Myths, portraits, allegories.
Veronese - Miti, ritratti, allegorie.
14 Agenda
Traduzioni: Elisabetta Carraro
Stampa: Firma Gruppo Poligrafico s.r.l.
via Friuli Venezia Giulia, 77 - Pianiga (Ve).
Jaipur, India 1870
Distribuzione e Logistica: NIO s.r.l.
via A. da Mestre, 19
30172 - Venezia-Mestre.
Kiev, Russia 1908-1917
Fotografia: Archivio VM, Archivio APT, Archivio Storico
Comunale “Fondo Giacomelli”, Archivio Fotografico Resini,
Archivio Magistrato delle Acque, Archivio Procuratoria di
San Marco, Archivio Accademia, Archivio PIero Zanotto.
In the atelier LE ZOIE you feel a real love
for art and beautiful things. Passionate
antiques collector, Michele Dal Bon,
offers a wide choice of jewellery, watches,
icon paintings and antique silver.
Nell'atelier LE ZOIE si respira l'amore
per l'arte e per il bello. Appassionato collezionista di antiquariato, Michele Dal
Bon propone un'ampia scelta di gioielli,
orologi, icone e argenti antichi.
Registrazione presso il Tribunale Civile e Penale
di Venezia n°1403 del 14/11/2001
Registrazione presso il Registro Nazionale Stampe e
Periodici per il Garante nelle Comunicazioni n° 8189.
AVA
AVAL


FOCUS ON
The enchanting Contarini “snail” staircase.
La magica chiocciola dei Contarini.
22 SPECIAL BRIDGES
Venice from both side. Those who have made the
effort to count claim that there is a total of 434 bridges...
Venezia tra le rive. Chi li ha contati dice che in citt
ce ne sono in tutto 434 che collegano da riva a...
30 SHOPPING GUIDE
31 Ultimate Shopping
34 DINING GUIDE
34 Muro Restaurant
36 The marvellous prey


41 SERVICE GUIDE
Si ringrazia per la collaborazione:
Calle dei Boteri, 1566
San Polo, Venezia
tel/fax 041 2758694
www.lezoieantiques.com

16 CHURCHES GUIDE
16 Tintoretto s eucharistic series
17 Face to face with St. Mark
Area Vendita: NIO s.r.l.
via A. da Mestre, 19
30172 Venezia - Mestre
tel./fax +39.041.5454536
[email protected]
Netherlands XVIII century
table
CATeV
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42 MAINLAND GUIDE
42 Boldini
43 Events and curiosity outdoor
46 USEFUL PAGE

La magica chiocciola dei
C O N TA R I N I
di Riccardo Bon
Per il timore di adunate e cospirazioni la Repubblica impedì per legge la costruzione di torri. Nacque l’idea di una
scala esterna dallo stile lussuoso e innovativo.
A
The enchanting
Contarini staircase
For
For fear
fear of
of meetings
meetings and
and conspiracies,
conspiracies, the
the Republic
Republic banned
banned by
by law
law the
the building
building of
of towers.
towers.
Thus
Thus the
the idea
idea of
of an
an external
external luxurious
luxurious and
and innovative
innovative staircase.
staircase.
na antica còclea. Un
luogo misterioso e
nascosto che profuma di spettri nelle notti d’inverno e di fiori sui davanzali
nelle sere d’estate. La Venezia nascosta, quella meno
evidente, ma forse più intensa, raccoglie fra i suoi tesori
uno dei più straordinari
esempi del passaggio dallo
stile tardo-gotico a quello
rinascimentale. La Scala Contarini, detta “del Bovolo” (in
dialetto, appunto, chiocciola), è una vera e propria torre
cilindrica traforata da archeggiature ascendenti che
risale al 1499. Un capolavoro
“ibrido”, per alcuni, a pochi
passi dal centro commerciale
di Rialto. La “torre”, adiacente Campo Manin, è opera
quasi sicuramente del “mastro murer” (muratore) Giovanni Candi, che la costruì
su incarico affidatogli da
Piero Contarini, rappresentante di una delle famiglie
più importanti della città - i
Contarini appunto - alla
quale Venezia deve ben otto
dogi.
I Contarini ci tenevano ad
avere anche un dominio
“fisico” sulla città, a ben rappresentare quello politico,
così spostarono sotto l’allora
doge Andrea Contarini
(1368-1382) la loro residenza
dall’assai decentrata zona
della Madonna dell’Orto, al
palazzo in perfetto stile goti-
U
© IRE
© IRE
FOCUS ON
n ancient spiral staircase. A mysterious
and hidden place still
imbued with the scent of winter night spectres and of flowers on windowsills in summer nights. The hidden, less
observed, but perhaps the
most intense Venice counts
among its treasures one of the
most extraordinary examples
of transition from late-Gothic
to Renaissance style. “Scala
Contarini”, also known as
“Scala del Bovolo” – where
“bovolo” in Venetian dialect
stands for “snail” – is an
authentic cylindrical tower
dating back to 1499 fretted
with ascending arcadings. A
“hybrid” masterpiece, as
described by some, a few steps
from the Rialto trade centre.
The “tower”, adjacent to
Campo Manin, is almost certainly a work by the “master
mason” (bricklayer) Giovanni
Candi who built it at the
behest of Piero Contarini,
representative of one of the
most influential families of
the city – the Contarini – to
whom Venice owes eight
Doges. The Contarini took
pride in the possession also of
a “physical” dominion of the
city rightly representing the
political one. That is why,
under the then Doge Andrea
Contarini (1368-1382), the
Contarini’s residence was
moved from the decentralised
area of “Madonna dell’Orto”

FOCUS ON
© IRE

LE ALTERNE FORTUNE DELLA SCALA
I Contarini rimangono proprietari del Palazzo del Bovolo fino agli
inizi del ‘700 quando, nel 1716, una parte passa alla famiglia
Minelli (matrimonio di Elisabetta Contarini con Giovanni Minelli)
che ne diverrà completa proprietaria nel 1772. Durante questo
periodo un’ala del palazzo viene trasformata in locanda, la
“Locanda della Scala”. Nel 1819 le ultime eredi Minelli vendono il
palazzo a Domenico Emery di Tolone il quale, nel 1849, lo donerà
alla Fraterna dei poveri di San Luca, amministrata dalla Congregazione di Carità. Questa, nel 1880, restaura il palazzo per farne
sede dei suoi uffici e lo intesta alla fondazione Ludovico Manin.
Nel 1939 la Congregazione sarà sostituita dalle Istituzioni di
Ricovero e di Educazione. La scala è stata restaurata con i finanziamenti di un comitato americano del Minnesota ed è riaperta
dal ’95. Altri importanti monumenti veneziani sono di proprietà
dell’IRE ed aperti al pubblico: la chiesa dell’Ospedaletto con la
Sala della Musica, la chiesa delle Zitelle, l’Oratorio dei Crociferi.
to the Venetian Gothic-style
palace of “San Paternian” that
was built at their behest not
too far from “San Luca” and
whose central part dates back
to 1300. Being tower-building
forbidden - since the Republic
feared possible conspirator’s
meetings in the towers - the
idea was conceived of building an external luxurious
and innovative staircase functioning as monumental access
for illustrious guests or as
symbol of the city’s dominion.
Also Francesco Sansovino
asserted that once from the
top of the tower, unlike today,
the entire Saint Mark’s square
could be seen.
At the end of the XV century,
the Contarini family invested
a large amount of money in
the renewal and embellishment of their palace, including not only the construction
of the famed staircase but also
the renewal of courts, loggias
- today filled for static reasons
- and of the once frescoed back
façade overlooking the “rio”.
Staircases in Venice were
usually right-angled, in a
period in which flowery
Gothic was all the rage as
testified by masterpieces dating back to that period: the
“Ca’ d’Oro” façades (1377)
and the Ducale Palace (c.
1480). Piero Contarini, however, drew inspiration from
the Florence Renaissance and
from the famous Pisa Tower
for the creation of an extremely innovative monument.
Candi, although very skilled,
wasn’t an architect and a careful look would certainly
reveal imperfections in the
staircase building. The heart
of the staircase, built with
Istria stone, used to be a single twenty-six meter high
monolith (and one meter
wide) around which winding
stairs had been inserted, then
anchored one another with a
co veneziano di San Paternian, che avevano fatto
costruire non lontano da San
Luca ed il cui nucleo iniziale
risale alla metà del 1300.
Non potendo per legge
costruire torri (all’interno
delle quali la Repubblica
temeva possibili adunate di
cospiratori contro lo stato)
nacque l’idea di una scala
esterna dallo stile lussuoso e
innovativo che avesse la funzione di accesso monumentale per ospiti illustri e di
simbolica dominazione della
città. Anche Francesco Sansovino attesta che da qui - a
differenza di oggi - era infatti possibile vedere dall’alto
Piazza San Marco.
I Contarini sullo scorcio del
XV secolo investirono ingenti somme di denaro per un’opera di rinnovamento e abbellimento del loro palazzo
che comportò non solo la
costruzione della famosissima scala, ma anche interventi nella corte, nelle logge
(oggi occluse per ragioni statiche) e nella facciata posteriore sul rio, un tempo affrescata.
Solitamente le scale a Venezia erano ad angolo retto,
mentre lo stilema del gotico
fiorito imperversava (come
attestano alcuni capolavori
dell’epoca: le facciate della
Ca’ d’Oro, 1377, e di Palazzo Ducale, 1480 circa),
ma Piero Contarini pensò
bene di ispirarsi al Rinascimento fiorentino e alla famosa Torre di Pisa per un
monumento decisamente innovativo.
Il Candi, pur essendo bravo
tecnicamente, non era un
architetto e ad un’attenta
disamina affiorerebbero alcune imperfezioni nella costruzione della scala. Il cuore
della scala costruito in pietra
d’Istria creava un unico
monolite di ventisei metri
From the top of the staircase - the viewpoint - Venice can be dominated, however without ever being able to catch a
glimpse of its founding element: water.
Dalla sommità della scala, il belvedere, si domina Venezia, ma non si riesce
a scorgere mai il suo elemento fondante: l’acqua.
© IRE
lead-cast and finally closed
with an embellished “cork”.
Imperfections can be noticed
in the external column distribution between the second
and last floor: some stairs
have two columns while
others have only one.
However, the “Scala del
Bovolo” remains one of the
most interesting and fascinating Venetian monuments. In
its courtyard there are also
some precious wells - known
as “vere da pozzo” - belonging
to the artistic heritage of the
“Istituzioni di Ricovero e
Educazione” - IRE, a public
organization offering services
for minors and elderly people -,
dating back to a period ranging from the XII-XIII century - a rare example of
Byzantine style - to the XVII
century with a Baroque wellcurb and a sarcophagus from
the San Paterniano church
demolished in ‘800.
d’altezza (e uno di fondamenta), attorno a cui vennero infilati i gradini a spirale
che con una colata di piombo dall’alto furono fissati e
chiusi poi alla sommità con
un “tappo” decorato.
Imperfezioni sono visibili
nella distribuzione delle
colonne esterne tra il secondo e l’ultimo piano: alcuni
gradini hanno due colonne,
altri solo una e così via.
La Scala del Bovolo resta
comunque uno dei più interessanti ed affascinanti monumenti veneziani e nella sua
corte trovano spazio anche
alcune preziose vere da
pozzo facenti parte del patrimonio artistico dell’IRE che
datano dal XII-XIII secolo
(un raro esempio di stile
bizantino), fino al 1600 con
una vera di stile barocco,
oltre a un sarcofago proveniente dalla chiesa di San
Paterniano demolita nell’800.
TICKETS AND OPENING TIMES
“Scala Contarini del Bovolo” can be visited from April to October,
daily 10-18. From November to March on Saturdays and Sundays
10-16 (during Christmas and Carnival every day 10 till 16). Full tickets cost 3 euros while reduced ones (for groups with more than 10
people) cost 2,50 euros. The ticket office is managed by the
cooperatives “Società Servizi Socio Culturali” and “Verona ‘83”.
For information and bookings call (+39) 041 2719012; for further information only visit www.scalabovolo.org; or write to [email protected]. A
handy and exhaustive guide “La Scala Contarini del Bovolo”, from
which the historic notions of this article have been taken, is sold at
the ticket office.
© IRE
FOCUS ON
THE STAIRCASE CHEQUERED FORTUNE
The Contarini remain the owners of “Palazzo del Bovolo” until the
beginning of the eighteenth century, when a part of it went to the
Minelli family in 1716 (since Elisabetta Contarini married Giovanni
Minelli) becoming its only owner in 1772. It was during that period that
one palace wing was turned into an inn, the “Locanda della Scala” or the staircase inn. In 1819, the last Minelli inheritors sell the Palace to
Emery of Tolone who, in 1849, will donate it to the “Fraterna dei poveri of San Luca” - Confraternity of the poor of San Luca -, administrated
by the Congregazione di Carità - Charity Congregation. In 1880, the
palace is restored by the Congregation (a viewpoint loggia on the
last floor of the staircase had already been reopened in 1872) becoming its headquarter and then registered in the name of Ludovico
Manin, the last doge of Venice. The Charity Congregation is replaced,
in 1937, by the ECA and by the IRE. The staircase restoration was
financed by an American Committee from Minnesota and reopened
in 1995. A project is being drawn up to bring the IRE headquarters now in Palazzo Falier on the Canal Grande - once again to the
Contarini palace, together with its prestigious art collections. Other
outstanding Venetian monuments belonging to the IRE are open to
the public: the church of the Ospedaletto and the “Sala delle
Musica”, the church of the Zitelle, the Oratorio dei Cruciferi, that will
be the topic of future articles in this magazine.

Museums
guide
A homage to white
Costantin Brancusi
Museums
Theatres
Galleries
Exhibitions
City Listing
Musei
Teatri
Gallerie
Esposizioni
Listing tematico
Specials of the month:
Ducale & Accademia: Carpaccio painter of stories
Collezione Guggenheim: A homage to white
Agenda: Not to miss
Highlight:
VERONESE. MYTHS, PORTRAITS, ALLEGORIES
Paolo Caliari, also known as the Veronese,
was summoned by the Inquisition.
Appuntamenti del mese:
MUSEUMS guide
Ducale & Accademia: Carpaccio pittore di storie
Collezione Guggenheim: L’opera al bianco

Agenda: Da non perdere
Editoriale:
VERONESE. MITI, RITRATTI, ALLEGORIE
Rischiò grosso Paolo Caliari, detto il Veronese,
quando fu convocato dalla Inquisizione.
L’
CARPACCIO ON SHOW
CARPACCIO PAINTER OF STORIES
If the Museo Correr boasts an exhibition on the Veronese,
the Gallerie dell’Accademia and the Ducale Palace measure up to it with two large exhibitions on the Carpaccio that
can be visited until March 13, 2005. On stage at the Gallerie
“Carpaccio painter of stories” with outstanding pictorial
GALLERIE ACCADEMIA
cycles linked to the life of the Virgin, of San Stefano, San
Dorsoduro, 1055
Orsola, on the miracle of the possessed at the Rialto bridge.
ph. +39.041.5222247
While at the Ducale Palace, the exhibition on the ‘newUntil March 13
found’ Carpaccio – for the cycle “Recent Restorations” –
displaying one of his “Madonna in adorazione del bambino con San
Giovannino”, has been extended.
PALAZZO DUCALE
San Marco, 1
ph. +39.041.2715911
Until March 13
CARPACCIO PITTORE DI STORIE
Se il Museo Correr fa la sua parte con Veronese, Gallerie
dell’Accademia e Palazzo Ducale fanno la loro con due
grandi mostre sul Carpaccio entrambe visitabili fino al 13
marzo 2005. Alle Gallerie è di scena “Carpaccio, pittore di
storie”, nella quale è possibile ammirare i grandi cicli pittorici legati alla vita della Vergine, di Santo Stefano, di
Sant’Orsola, oltre al miracolo dell’indemoniato al ponte di
Rialto, mentre al Ducale è stata prorogata la mostra del
Carpaccio ritrovato – per il ciclo “Restauri Recenti” - che
presenta una “Madonna in adorazione del Bambino con
San Giovannino”.
L’opera al bianco
MUSEUMS guide
Contents
The alchemy of a magician, an experimenter of avant-gardes. He
is Costantin Brancusi, Romanian artist (1876-1957) whose works
are exhibited at the Peggy Guggenheim Collection from February
19 to May 22, 2005. Organized in cooperation with the Musée
National d’Art Moderne, Centre Georges Pompidou, the exhibition is dedicated to the photographic work of an artist who was
not only sculptor but also a photographer endowed with great
inventiveness and technical skill, at the same level of figures of
great renown like Man Ray and
Charles Sheeler.
Around 90 photographs recounting the experience of a prolific
artist – almost two thousand the
alchimia di un mago, uno spenegatives and prints preserved at
rimentatore d’avanguardie. È
the Musée National d’Art
Constantin Brancusi, l’artista
Moderne of Paris – in which
rumeno (1876-1957) in mostra alla
emerges an extraordinary experiCollezione Peggy Guggenheim dal 19
mental spirit: his photographic
febbraio al 22 maggio 2005. Realizzata
works are considered autonoin collaborazione con il Musée national
mous, insubordinate to sculpture
d’art moderne, Centre Georges Pomyet able to ‘stage’ sculpture itself.
pidou, l’esposizione è dedicata all’opeThe exhibition also displays the
ra fotografica di un artista che, oltre ad
chalk sculptures that are usually
essere scultore, fu fotografo di grande
preserved at the Brancusi Atelier
capacità immaginativa e tecnica, in
bequeathed to (1957) and reorgarapporto a figure del calibro di Man
nized by the Musée National
Ray e Charles Sheeler. Circa 90 fotod’Arte Moderne. It includes ‘The
grafie che raccontano dell’esperienza
baroness’ (of the first twenties)
di un artista prolifico (quasi duemila
exhibited at the Brummer
sono i negativi e le stampe originali
Gallery of New York in 1933,
conservati nei Fondi del Musée national d’art moderne di
‘The adolescent’s bust’ (1919-1924), ‘The sleeping muse’ (after
Parigi) e nelle quali emerge uno straordinario spirito speri1910) and the two bronzes of the Peggy Guggenheim Collection:
mentale: la sua fotografia ha valore di opera autonoma, non
‘Maiastra’ (c. 1912) and ‘Bird in space’ (1032-40).
subordinata alla scultura, ma in grado di portare a compimento il lavoro sulla scultura stessa.
La mostra presenta tra l’altro le sculture in gesso, conservate
presso l’Atelier Brancusi, lasciato in eredità nel 1957 e ricostituito poi al Musée national d’art moderne. Fra le altre La
baronessa (inizio anni Venti), esposta alla Brummer Gallery di
COLLEZIONE PEGGY GUGGENHEIM
New York nel 1933, Il torso di adolescente (1919-1924), La
Dorsoduro, 701
musa addormentata (post 1910) e i due bronzi della
Info: +39.041.2405411
From 19 February to 22 May
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim: Maiastra (1912ca) e l’Uccello
10am - 6pm
Closing day: Tuesday - Ticket: € 10.00
nello spazio (1932-40).

VERONESE
rate, he agreed to change the
title of his work, a real
masterpiece that can be viewed today in all its splendour in the “Gallerie della
Accademia” as “Convito in
casa Levi”.
Displaying the tendency to
ambiguity between religious
and profane, distinguishing
feature of almost all his production, is the aim of the
exhibition organized in the
halls of the Neoclassic palace of the Correr Museum
(from March 13 to May 29,
2005).
It includes altogether thirty
works coming from museums and collections of all
around the world, as the
“San Diego Museum of Art”,
the Madrid “Prado”, the
Edinburgh “National Gallery of Scotland”, the Florence “Galleria degli Uffizi”
and from the “Ducale Palace”.
The exhibition unfolds in
three main parts as evoked
buon conto egli accettò di
cambiare titolo all’opera, in
realtà un capolavoro che ora è
possibile ammirare alle Gallerie dell’Accademia come
“Convito in Casa Levi”.
Questa tendenza all’ambiguità tra religioso e profano,
che caratterizza un po’ tutta
la sua produzione, vuole
essere ripresa in un’esposizione allestita nelle salette
della reggia neoclassica del
Museo Correr, dal titolo
“Veronese: miti, ritratti, allegorie” (dal 13 febbraio al 29
maggio 2005). Vi sono annoverate opere - in tutto una
trentina - provenienti da musei e collezioni di tutto il
mondo: dal “San Diego Museum of Art” al “Prado” di
Madrid, dalla “National Gallery of Scotland” di Edimburgo alla Galleria degli Uffizi e allo stesso Palazzo
Ducale.
La mostra si sviluppa secondo i tre principali filoni che
2
Myths, portraits, allegories
MUSEUMS guide
Dopo il grande successo della mostra “Turner and
Venice” il museo Correr prova a bissare con
“Veronese: miti, ritratti, allegorie” nelle salette
della reggia neoclassica dal 13 febbraio al 29
maggio 2005.

VERONESE - MITI, RITRATTI, ALLEGORIE
MUSEO CORRER
San Marco, 52 - Tickets: € 11.00
ph. +39.041.2405211 - Opening: 9 -17
From February 13 to May 29
W
ischiò grosso Paolo
Caliari, detto il Veronese, quando, al momento di rendere pubblica
una grande tela commissionata dai frati domenicani del
convento veneziano dei Santi
Giovanni e Paolo, che doveva
raffigurare un’ Ultima Cena,
fu convocato dall’ Inquisizione. Siamo nel 1573.
L’artista venne sottoposto a
un vero e proprio interrogatorio sul perché avesse inserito così tanti personaggi nell’opera - addirittura nani, mori e
armigeri - e soltanto la sua
brillante intelligenza gli permise di scansare abilmente
l’accusa di eresia. Ad ogni
R
3
MUSEUMS guide
After the great success achieved with the exhibition “Turner and Venice”, the Correr Museum will try
to give an encore with “Veronese: myths, portraits,
allegories” on show in the halls of the Neoclassic
palace from February 13 to May 29, 2005.
hen it came to
show to the public
a large canvas that was to portray The Last
Supper - commissioned to him
by the Dominican Friars of
the Venetian Convent of Sts.
Giovanni and Paolo, Paolo
Caliari, also known as the
Veronese, was summoned by
the Inquisition.
It was the year 1573. The
artist was interrogated on
the reasons that led him to
include so many figures even dwarfs, Moors and soldiers - in the painting.
Only his extreme cleverness
enabled him to adroitly
avert a heresy charge. At any

CITY LISTING
MUSEUMS
PALAZZO DUCALE
map: F5 - S.Marco, 1 - Tickets: € 11.00
ph. +39.041.2715911 - Opening: 9 - 17
February to 29 May.
MUSEO DI STORIA NATURALE
map: D3 - Fondaco dei Turchi, 1730
ph. +39.041.2750206 - Tickets: Free
Opening: 10 - 16 (Saturday - Sunday)
Recent restoration
A rediscovered
Carpaccio
The following list describes famous and
interesting museums, theatres and galleries in Venice. Full of useful and
detailed information.
Musei
Fondazioni
Gallerie d’arte
Gallerie private
The museum was founded on the
bequeath of noble Venetian families
who operated in the old colonial
trade markets. It is located in the building of Procuratie Nuove in St. Mark’s
Square and contains Roman and
Greek finds dating from the 5th century B.C. to the 3rd century A.D.
Permanent exhibition: collections of
bronzes, ceramics, jewels and coins and
very beautiful sculptures with many original Greek and Roman pieces.
BIBLIOTECA NAZIONALE MARCIANA
Sale Monumentali
map: F5 - Piazza S. Marco - Tickets: € 11.00
ph. +39.041.2407211 - Opening: 9 -17
MUSEUMS guide
4

by the title itself. First,
myth and allegory.
It is the myth of Venice that
is celebrated by the Veronese in the splendour and in
the magnificent scenography
of the ruling class of a “perfect and eternal” state, place
of affluence and beauty as it
is clear from “Ratto d’Europa” and the amazing “Venezia Trionfante” of the late
70s, as well as from “Venere
e Mercurio” (c. 1565) or
“Marte che spoglia Venere
con amorino e cane” (1580).
But also from the love scenes characterized by sumptuousness with velvets and
damasks, armours, silks,
pearls and jewels.
riecheggiano già dal titolo
stesso. Il mito e l’allegoria
innanzitutto. È il mito di
Venezia, che egli celebra nei
fasti e nelle stupefacenti scenografie della classe dirigente di uno stato “perfetto ed
eterno”, il luogo della ricchezza e del bello, come si
nota nel “Ratto d’Europa” o
nella splendida “Venezia
trionfante” della fine degli
anni ‘70; ma anche quello dei
“Venere e Mercurio” (1565
ca.) o “Marte che spoglia Venere con amorino e cane”
del 1580, dalle scene amorose caratterizzate da situazioni
sfarzose, tra velluti e damaschi, corazze e sete, perle e
gioielli. Giungono poi i
The symbolic seat of Venetian power,
formerly the seat of the Doge and State
Magistratures, the Palace is the supreme
embodiment of Venetian civilisation. A
masterpiece of gothic architecture, it
reveals a grandiose stratification of constructive and ornamental elements. The
interiors, superbly decorated by legions
of artists, including Tiziano, Veronese,
Tintoretto, Vittoria and Tiepolo, offer a
range of different experiences: from
the vast halls of political power to the
refinement of the Doge's chambers,
from the gloom of the prison cells to
the luminosity of the loggias overlooking the Piazza and the lagoon.
Temporary exhibition: Recent restoration
- a riscovered Carpaccio: Madonna
Adoring the Christ Child with the Infant
St. John the Baptist. Until 13 March.
map: D5 - Dorsoduro, 3136
ph. +39.041.2410100 - Opening: 10 -17
Closing day: Tuesday - Tickets: € 6.50
MUSEO CORRER
map: F5 - S.Marco, 52 - Tickets: € 11.00
ph. +39.041.2405211 - Opening: 9 -17
I rami per le acqueforti nelle
collezioni del Museo Correr
The exhibition is divided into three sections: the neo-classical part, the historical part of Venetian civilisation and the
Venetian picture gallery. Visitor will discover the political, social and military
history of Venice’s Serenissima Republic.
Permanent exhibition: collections of weapons, games, marble and bronze sculptures, coins and medals. Paintings by
Carpaccio, la Trasfigurazione by Giovanni
Bellini, statues and sketches by Canova.
Temporary exhibition: Veronese Myths, portraits, allegories. From 13
The building, designed by J. Sansovino,
houses the precious book collection of
Venice’s Serenissima Republic.
Permanent exhibition: La Sapienza by
Tiziano and the Sala della Libreria decorated with twenty-one tondos on the
arched ceiling and philosophers’ portraits
by Tintoretto and Veronese on the walls.
Temporary exhibition: Il teatro dei
corpi. Le pitture colorate d’anatomia.
Until 8 May.
MUSEO STORICO NAVALE
I Tiepolo
This splendid baroque palazzo was
restructured and decorated several
times. It still preserves beautiful frescoes by Tiepolo on the ceilings of the
noble floors. It is furnished with precious original furniture.
Permanent exhibition: paintings by
Tiepolo, Canaletto, Guardi, Rosalba
Carriera, Pietro Longhi, and Piazzetta.
Collections of furniture, Chinese and
Venetian vases. Collection of wooden
statues by Brustolon.
Temporary exhibition: The Tiepolo Etchings plates from the Museo Correr
collections. Until 28 March.
MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO NAZIONALE
Museo Marciano
map: F5 - S. Marco, 52 - Tickets: € 4.00
ph. +39.041.2405211 - Opening: 9 -17
ritratti di uomini, donne e
bambini, di un ceto che aspira per sé e per le proprie
famiglie (i Contarini o i Barbarico) a un’eternità non
meno conquistatrice ed eroica - e forse non meno “religiosa” - di quella degli dei
antichi, ma che cerca comunque di rimanere sé stesso.
copies of Murano glass, and Renaissance pieces from the collections
of Correr, Moli and Cicogna.
MUSEO DEL MERLETTO
Burano, Piazza Galuppi
ph. +39.041.730034 - Opening: 10 - 16
Closing day: Tuesday - Tickets: € 4.00
Museum entirely dedicated to Burano
laces and their history. It is adjacent to
the school of this art.
Permanent exhibition: numerous laces
made by the annexed school, important designs, photographic and iconographic examples.
CASA GOLDONI
map: F4 - S.Polo, 2794
ph. +39.041.2759325 - Opening: 10 - 17
Closing day: Sunday - Tickets: € 2.50
A partial reopening of the Venetian
Museum (closed for restoration) offers
visitors a chance to view the renovated
hall dedicated to the historical Ligabue
Expedition (1973) and, on the ground
floor, a new acquarium with more than
50 species of fish and animals.
Temporary exhibition: I fossili di Bolca.
Tesori dalle rocce. From 22 January to
20 April.
CA' REZZONICO
Museo del Settecento Veneziano
Il seguente listing descrive famosi ed
interessanti musei, teatri e gallerie
della città. Completo di informazioni
utili e dettagliate.
There are then portraits of
men, women and children
belonging to a class aspiring
for themselves or for their
families - the Contarinis or
the Barbaricos - to the same
victorious, heroic, and perhaps nonetheless religious,
eternity of ancient people
yet remaining themselves.
map: H5 - Castello, 2148
ph. +39.041.5200276 - Opening: 8.30 - 13
Closing day: Sun., holidays - Tickets: € 1.50
The museum contains relics from
various regional navies and Italian navy
history. The 2nd floor has a room dedicated to the Bucintoro, the gilded ceremonial sea craft of the Doge, used in
the solemn ceremonies like Venice’s
marriage with the sea.
Permanent exhibition: collections of original documents, remains and models
of boats of several forms and sizes.
MUSEO DEL VETRO
Art glass Museum
map: L2 - Murano, F.ta Giustinian
ph. +39.041.739586 - Opening: 10 - 16
Closing day: Wednesday - Tickets: € 4.00
Located in the palace of the Torcello
Bishop, it is a typical gothic Venetian
building. Important private collections
were added to the ancient pieces.
Permanent exhibition: unique extant
Re-opened to the public on 27th
October 2001, Palazzo Centani is the
building where the famed Venetian
playwright Carlo Goldoni was born.
This delightful gothic palazzo today
houses a sparkling new, high-tech
museum devoted to the playwright’s
work and includes a host of documents and projections of historical
theatrical performances.
Permanent exhibition: Venetian theatrical relics and many texts, original
manuscripts and theatrical works of
several eras.
MUSEO FORTUNY
map: E5 - S. Marco, 3780
ph. +39.041.5200995 - Tickets: € 4.00
Opening: 10 - 18 Closing day: Monday
Mariano Fortuny
Viaggio in Egitto
5
Located in a Gothic palazzo, this is a
particularly charming museum which,
by respecting the initial destination
given by Mariano Fortuny, who created his own atelier of photography,
sets and staging. It organizes all exhibitions under the theme of visual
communication.
Permanent exhibition: collection, ordered for big themes (painting, light, photography, textile workers), representing
the results of the artist’s investigations.
Mariano Fortuny: Journey to Egypt - An
Artist's Photographic Notebook.
1. Ratto d’Europa, 1575-1580. Oil on canvas, 240 x 307 cm.
Venezia, Palazzo Ducale.
2. Lucrezia, 1585 ca. Oil on canvas,109 x 90,2 cm.
Vienna, Kunsthistorisches Museum, Gemäldegalerie
3. Venere e Mercurio presentano a Giove Eros e Anteros, 1560-1565.
Oil on canvas, 150 x 243 cm. Firenze, Galleria degli Uffizi
4. La Pace, 1552 ca. Oil on canvas, 105 x 64 cm.
Roma, Pinacoteca Capitolina.
5. La Costanza, 1552 ca. Oil on canvas, 105 x 65 cm.
Roma, Pinacoteca Capitolina.
MUSEUMS guide
MUSEUMS
Museums
Foundations
Art Galleries
Private Galleries

map: E3 - S. Croce, 1992
ph. +39.041.2410100 - Opening: 10 -16
Closing day: Monday - Tickets: € 4.00
and artistic knowledge, ideas, and
experiences can be exchanged.
Temporary exhibition: Glass in the
World. Today. Until April 3.
MUSEO DIOCESANO DI ARTE SACRA
map: G5 - Castello, 4312
ph. +39.041.5229166 - Opening: 11 - 19
Closing day: Monday - Tickets: free
The eighteenth-century building contains a splendid series of polychrome
marbles, frescoed ceilings depicting
the exploits of the Mocenigo family,
which provided the Venetian Republic
with seven Doges. The building houses the seat of the Study Centre for the
History of Textiles and Costume.
Permanent exhibition: a selection of
rare items - textiles and costumes - of
special value and an important library
specialising in this sector.
Temporary exhibition: Garments of
power. Until 30 April.
MUSEO EBRAICO
map: D2 - Cannaregio, 2902/b
ph. +39.041.715359 - Opening: 10 - 18
Closing day: Saturday - Tickets: € 3.00
The museum contains many finds of
Venetian convents and churches and is
located in the St. Apollonia convent
(12th-13th century). A rare jewel of
Romanic architecture, the cloister contains the Lapidario Marciano with
Roman and Byzantine stone fragments.
Permanent exhibition: works of art, furnishings and holy furniture. Paintings
by Palma il Giovane, Pellegrini, Luca
Giordano and Moretto.
FOUNDATIONS
SPAZIO CULTURALE SVIZZERO
Palazzo Trevisan degli Ulivi
map: D6 - Campo S. Agnese, 810
ph. +39.041.5225996
Opening: Mon-Fri 11-17, Sat-Sun 11-18
Closing day: Tuesday - Tickets: Free
A new Swiss Cultural space has been
opened in Venice since February
2002. It is considered as an extension
of the Swiss Institute in Rome. The
multivalent hall, open to the Swiss
Cultural Institutions operating in Italy,
hosts artistic manifestations, expositions, exhibits, meetings, conferences
and concerts.
Temporary exhibition: Kurt Blum and
Italy, photography show. From 27
January to 12 March.
FONDAZIONE BEVILACQUA LA MASA
map: F5 - San Marco, 71
ph. +39.041.5207797 - Opening: 12 - 18
Closing day: Tuesday - Tickets: € 5.00
On strolling through Campo del Ghetto
Nuovo - the site of the museum which
bears witness to the constant and productive presence of the Jewish community in Venice - and Campo del
Ghetto Vecchio, you will come across
five synagogues, three of which are
open to the public.
Permanent exhibition: collections of
furniture, texts and wedding contracts,
woven of liturgical use, ornamental silvers, fabrics and curtains.
Temporary exhibition: Luigi Rocca: a
new experience: Jerusalem-New YorkVenice. Until 28 February.
VENETO INSTITUTE OF
SCIENCE, LETTERS AND ART
map: D5 - Campo San Vidal, 2945
ph. +39.041.2407711 - Opening: 14 -19
Open daily - Tickets: € 7.00
Philip-Lorca
di Corcia
Photographs
1975-2003
Gallery and
Museums
CUBE GALLERY
MUSEUMS guide

da non perdere
not to be missed
BUGNO ART GALLERY
San Marco 1655 - ph. +39.041.5288135
S. Marco 1996 - ph. +39.041.5231305
Open daily 10.30 a.m. - 12.30 a.m. and 4 p.m. - 7.30 p.m. Closed Sunday morning and Monday morning
Open since September 27, 2002, the
Cube Gallery came about with the
collaboration of Massimiliano Bugno
and Paolo Vincenzi, after 12 years of
experience with the Bugno Art
Gallery. The Cube Gallery differs
from the former in its dedication for
the most part to artists emerging from
the Venetian scene both local and
international. Its intention is to restore
the relationship between young
artists and private galleries, who
have in the last few years given preference to established artists, with
few exceptions. The aim of the gallery is also to be space of convergence and comparison between
these artists who in the past have
Serban Savu - 2004
had difficulty in finding spaces in
“Omaggio a Duchamp” - cm 80 x 60
which to gather and exhibit, which
meant they leaned towards a sometimes unproductive individualism.
Born in 1990 from
the collaboration
between Massimiliano Bugno and Davide Samueli, the
Bugno Art Gallery
(formerly known as
Bugno And Samueli) can be found
in the main gallery
space situated in
Campo S. Fantin
(a few hundred meters from Piazza
San Marco and exactly in front of la
Fenice theater).
Since 1990, works
by major contemporary artists both
Alighiero Boetti - “Mistico romantico”. Arazzo - cm 17 x 17
Italian and international have been shown, from Arman to Schifano, Ben Vautier to
Ugo Nespolo, Pizzinato to Guidi, giving space at the same time
also to new artistic reality.
Tuesday to Saturday 4 p.m. - 7.30 p.m.
Inaugurata il 27 settembre 2002 la Cube Gallery nasce dalla collaborazione di Massimiliano Bugno e Paolo Vincenzi e dall’esperienza maturata in dodici anni di attività nella Bugno Art Gallery,
rispetto alla quale la Cube si differenzierà dedicandosi maggiormente ad artisti emergenti del panorama veneziano, nazionale ed
internazionale, con l’intento di ricucire una relazione tra i giovani
artisti e le gallerie private, che negli ultimi anni, salvo pochissime
eccezioni, hanno privilegiato la tradizione degli artisti già storicizzati. Obiettivo della galleria é anche quello di essere luogo di confronto per gli stessi artisti, che nella difficoltà di disporre di spazi
espositivi e di aggregazione hanno teso a rinserrarsi in individualismi non sempre produttivi.
Nata nel 1990 dalla collaborazione di Massimiliano Bugno e
Davide Samueli, la Bugno Art Gallery (ex Bugno & Samueli)
ha esposto in questi anni nella sede espositiva principale sita
in Campo S. Fantin (a poche centinaia di metri da Piazza S.
Marco ed esattamente di fronte al Teatro La Fenice) opere
dei maggiori artisti contemporanei italiani e non, da Arman
a Schifano, da Ben Vautier a Ugo Nespolo, da Pizzinato a
Guidi, dando spazio allo stesso tempo anche a nuove realtà
artistiche.
A foundation that has the aim of
spreading and increasing knowledge
of contemporary art, it dedicates particular attention to young artists. With
its main location in Saint Mark’s
Square, it will soon become a place
for looking up books, CD-Roms and
other rare material.
Temporary exhibition: Philip-Lorca di
Corcia, photographs 1975-2003. From
20 January to 4 April.
Palazzo Trevisan degli Ulivi. Dorsoduro - Campo S.Agnese, 810 - ph. +39.041.5225996
map: G6 - Isola di S.Giorgio
ph. +39.041.2710228 - Opening: 10 - 18.30
Closing day: Monday - Tickets: € 9.50
The Giorgio Cini Foundation was
instituted on 1951 by Count Vittorio
Cini in memory of his son Giorgio. It
hosts conferences and congresses of
scientific and cultural organisations
from Italy and abroad offering an
unparalleled urban and monumental context.
"Iniziativa del
CCS - Centro
Culturale Svizzero"
Kurt Blum, 1953 -Milano, Palazzo Reale (mostra Picasso)
FONDAZIONE QUERINI STAMPALIA
map: F5 - Castello, 5252
ph. +39.041.2711411 - Opening: 10 - 18
Friday and Saturday until 22
Closing day: Monday Tickets: € 6.00
The Foundation was set up upon the
bequeath by Earl Giovanni Querini
Stampalia. This well preserved building is built in perfect and original
Venetian style and contains a full
library and fascinating picture gallery.
26 January - 27 March. KURT BLUM E L’ITALIA.
January 26 will see the opening, at the “Spazio Culturale Svizzero”
– Swiss cultural centre –, of the photographic exhibition “Kurt Blum
and Italy” unfolding in three stages: ordinary people portrayed in
Milan, Genoa, Venice and in Sicily; the great Picasso exhibition
organized in Milan at the ‘Palazzo Reale’ in 1953 and certain
details created in the steel plants of Cornigliano (Genoa) and
Italsider. The exhibition offers around forty black and white images
and the projection of a documentary film that won , in 1963, the
gold medal at the Venice Film Festival: “Man fire iron”, Italy, 1960,
created by Kurt Blum, director and producer, for Italsider and Fiat.
Il 26 gennaio presso lo Spazio Culturale Svizzero è stata inaugurata la mostra fotografica "Kurt Blum e l'Italia", raccontata in tre
momenti: la gente comune ritratta per le vie di Milano, Genova,
Venezia ed in Sicilia, la grande mostra su Picasso presentata a
Milano a Palazzo Reale nel 1953 ed alcuni particolari realizzati
nella acciaierie di Cornigliano e Italsider. L'esposzione presenta
una quarantina di immagini in bianco e nero e la proiezione del
documentario, vincitore nel 1963 della medaglia d'oro al
Festiaval del Cinema di Venezia, l'uomo, il fuoco e il ferro, Italia,
1960 che Kurt Blum ha realizzato in veste di produttore e regista
per Italsider e Fiat.
ph. +39.041.5238790 - Opening: 8.15-19.15
Monday 8.15-14 - Tickets: € 5.00
Ca' D'oro, an enchanting gothic palace on the Grand Canal. It owes its
name to the gold leaf which, in the
past, decorated its elegant façade.
Permanent exhibition: a wide collection of coins, medals, ceramic and
many paintings by the Flemish School.
GALLERIE DELL'ACCADEMIA
map: D6 - Dorsoduro, 1055
ph. +39.041.5222247 - Opening: 8.15-19.15
Monday 8.15-14 - Tickets: € 6.50
COLLEZIONE PEGGY GUGGENHEIM
map: E6 - Dorsoduro, 701
ph. +39.041.2405411 - Opening: 10 - 18
Closing day: Tuesday - Tickets: € 10.00
Costantin Brancusi
L opera al bianco
The Foundation was created by Peggy
Guggenheim, who was deeply in love
with Venice, where she lived for more
than thirty years.
Permanent exhibition: extensive collection of 19th century paintings.
Temporary exhibition: Costantin Brancusi - L’opera al bianco. From 19
February to 22 May.
TELECOM FUTURE CENTRE
map: F4 - San Marco, 4826
ph. +39.041.5213206 - Opening: 10 - 18
Closing day: Monday - Tickets: Free
The most advanced international
research centres have reconsidered
the historical and social elements of
this city. Permanent exhibition.
ART GALLERIES
GALLERIA INTERNAZIONALE
D'ARTE MODERNA CA' PESARO
map: E3 - Santa Croce, 2070
ph. +39.041.5240695 - Opening: 10 - 17
Closing day: Monday - Tickets: € 5.50
SPAZIO CULTURALE SVIZZERO
FONDAZIONE CINI
A vital centre of promotion and confrontation, in which cultural, scientific
05
FEBRUARY
MARCH
Temporary exhibition: Il mito della
fenice in Oriente e in Occidente. Until
2 April.
The Accademia picture galleries provide
a very complete overview of Venetian
art history through the ages. Found at
the foot of the Accademia bridge, on
Tuesdays only visits can be made to the
rich warehouses on the top floor of the
monastery designed by Palladio.
Permanent exhibition: paintings by
Tintoretto, Veronese, Giorgione, Bellini, Tiziano, Tiepolo...
Temporary exhibition: Carpaccio. Painter
of History. Until March 13.
PRIVATE GALLERIES
BUGNO ART GALLERY
map: E5 - San Marco, 1996/d
ph. +39.041.5231305
Bugno Art Gallery has been exhibiting in
these years works by the most interesting
italian and foreingn contemporary artists.
ANTICHITÀ GIANFRANCO FOTI
map: E4 - San Polo, 412/413
ph. +39.041.2770384
GALLERIA SAN MARCO 101
map: F5 - S. Marco, 101
ph. +39.041.2770151
GALLERIA MARINA BAROVIER
map: D5 - S.Marco, 3216
ph. +39.041.5226102
Personal exhibition: Lino Tagliapietra
GALLERIA CA' REZZONICO
map: D5 - Dorsoduro, 2793
ph. +39.041.5280035
GALLERIA RAVAGNAN
map: F5 - San Marco, 50/a
ph. +39.041.5203021
GALLERIA SEGUSO VIRO
One of the most important international modern art galleries in Italy, it contains a wealth of paintings, sculptures,
etchings and drawings by renowned
contemporary artists of many countries. It is located in a magnificent
Venetian patrician palazzo and contains a masterpiece by B. Longhena.
Temporary exhibition: Paolo Pennisi.
Identità e potere - Allegorie pittoriche
Until 13 March.
map: L2 - Fond.ta Venier, 29 - Murano
ph. +39.041.5275353
GALLERIA FRANCHETTI CA' D'ORO
map: E5 - San Marco, 2765
ph. +39.041.5204942
map: E3 - Cannaregio, 3933
FLORA BIGAI
map: G6 - San Marco, 1652
ph. +39.041.5212208
VENICE DESIGN
map: F5 - San Marco, 1310
ph. +39.041.5239082
CONTINI
MUSEUMS guide
MUSEO DI PALAZZO MOCENIGO
Storia del tessuto e del costume

Churches
guide
Face to face
with St. Mark T
Churches
Schools
Monuments
City Listing
di Nicoletta Consentino
La dirimpettaia
di San Marco
Chiese
Scuole
Monumenti
Listing tematico
SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE CHURCH
Contents
Special of the month:
S. Giorgio Maggiore: Tintoretto’s eucharistic series
Convento di S.Salvador: Telecom Future Centre
Highlight:
FACE TO FACE WITH ST. MARK
The white Palladian façade of the Church of
San Giorgio Maggiore emerges...
TINTORETTO’S EUCHARISTIC SERIES (1592-1594)
Following the precepts of the Council of Trent,
Tintoretto, among others, bore witness with his
paintings to the new significance attached to the
Eucharist. The paintings expand on the subject of
Girolamo Campagna’s bronze High Altar: the
Blessed Trinity on a gilded copper globe supported by the four Evangelists, aimed at representing
the dogma of Transubstantiation. On one side of
the altar Tintoretto painted The Harvest of Manna,
an episode of the Old Testament heralding the
Eucharist, on the other The Last Supper, that is the
very moment of the inception of the sacrament.
Appuntamento del mese:
CHURCHES guide
S. Giorgio Maggiore: Il ciclo eucaristico del Tintoretto
Convento di S.Salvador: Telecom Future Centre

Editoriale:
LA DIRIMPETTAIA DI SAN MARCO
La candida facciata palladiana della Chiesa
di San Giorgio Maggiore sembra emergere...
IL CICLO EUCARISTICO DEL TINTORETTO (1592-1594)
Anche Tintoretto seguì i precetti del Concilio di Trento per rappresentare la nuova
importanza assunta dall’Eucarestia. I dipinti sviluppano infatti il tema illustrato
dall’opera di Girolamo Campagna sull’altare maggiore, un’immagine della SS.
Trinità sopra un globo sostenuto dai quattro Evangelisti, a proclamare il dogma
della Transustanziazione. Da un lato, infatti, Tintoretto raffigurò “La caduta della
manna”, episodio che nel Vecchio Testamento preannuncia l’Eucarestia, dall’altro “L’Ultima Cena”, ovvero l’istituzione del sacramento stesso da parte di Cristo.
he white Palladian
façade of the Church of
San Giorgio Maggiore
emerges, with its classical
lines, from the lagoon fog like
an enchanted, magic and
mysterious element dazzling
its visitors on clear sunny
days and casting a spell on
them at sunset, with the pink
and orange sky and the dark
colour of the Basin waters. In
reality, the church does not
contain mysteries but precious works of art and even
more precious – for the then
Venetians – relics, like the
body of the protomartyr San
Stefano, the first Christian
martyr, therefore outstanding
centre of attraction for pilgrims and believers. Stefano
is one of the first seven deacons named by the Apostles ,
he was stoned to death in
Jerusalem because his preaching and charges went
against
the Clergymen
of the Temple.
The story
about
his
body is
similar to
the one
a candida facciata palladiana della Chiesa di
San Giorgio Maggiore
sembra emergere con le sue
linee classiche dalle nebbie
della laguna come una cosa
incantata, magica e ricca di
mistero, mentre abbaglia il
visitatore nelle limpide giornate assolate, e lo incanta al
tramonto, tra il rosa e l’arancio del cielo e il colore cupo
delle acque del Bacino.
In realtà al suo interno racchiude, più che misteri, preziose opere d’arte e ancor
più preziose (per i veneziani
di allora) reliquie. Come il
corpo di Santo Stefano protomartire, primo martire cristiano, e quindi importantissimo polo d’attrazione per
pellegrini e fedeli.
Stefano è uno dei primi sette
diaconi nominati dagli Apostoli, lapidato a Gerusalemme perché la sua predicazione e le sue accuse erano scomode per i Sacerdoti del
Tempio e la storia del suo
corpo è quella di tante altre
reliquie “trovate” (o trafuga-
L
te) dai fedeli naviganti veneziani reduci dalle terre
d’Oriente: portato a Venezia
nel lontano 1109, fu accompagnato da solenni cerimoniali liturgici e civili dai quali
ebbe origine la tradizionale
visita del Doge la notte di
Natale e il giorno successivo
(giorno di Santo Stefano)
che, a detta degli storici,
era una delle più importanti e suggestive feste dell’antica Repubblica.
Vicino a lui, nella stessa chiesa, sono riposte anche alcune
sacre spoglie di San Giorgio,
il Cavaliere Cristiano, protettore dei Crociati.
Egli uccide il Drago, simbolo
di tutti i Vizi e i Peccati, per
salvare la bella principessa
infedele e ottenere così la
conversione sua e del suo
popolo. All’interno, una tela
di Vittore Carpaccio, libera
ripresa di quella che si può
ammirare alla Scuola degli
Schiavoni (dove è illustrato
anche il resto della storia),
mostra il giovane santo scagliarsi al galoppo contro la
temibile belva.
E’ conservata nella Cappella
Superiore, che tra il dicembre del 1799 e il marzo del
1800 fu sede del Conclave (la
riunione dei Cardinali) che
elesse Papa Pio VII, cosa che
dimostra l’importanza ancora attribuita all’epoca al
potente convento benedettino sorto nel X secolo ed
ampliatosi fino a comprendere tutta l’isola.
La chiesa fu ricostruita tra il
1565 e il 1610 su progetto di
Andrea Palladio, che seguì i
precetti del Concilio di Trento appena conclusosi: lo spazio ampio della navata, con il
coro attorno all’altare maggiore innalzato su gradini,
ritorna alle basiliche delle
origini cristiane rendendo la
chiesa adatta a forme liturgiche e devozionali rinnovate e
lasciando più posto ai fedeli.
CHURCHES
CITY LISTING
CHURCHES
BASILICA DI SAN MARCO
map: F5 - Piazza San Marco
ph. +39.041.5225205 - Tickets: free the
church, € 2,00 La Pala, € 2,50 il Tesoro.
Opening: 10.00-17.00; Sunday 14.00-17.00
nave contains the old choir stalls for
the friars, the only example of a chorus which has maintained its original
position and structure.
To see: the ascona Madonna di casa
Pesaro and L'Assunta by Tiziano, La
Vergine col bimbo by Bellini, graves of
Dogi and of captains of arms, monuments dedicated to Canova and Tiziano.
SAN POLO
map: D4 - Campo San Polo
ph. +39.041.2750462 - Tickets: € 2.00
Opening: 10.00-17.00; Sunday 13.00-17.00
The most famous Basilica or cathedral
in Venice, it is one of the greatest
monuments in Europe. The exterior
façades are decorated in Byzantine
style, with columns, bas-reliefs and
coloured marble. On the terrace
stand four imposing gilded bronze
horses. All the arches of the doorway
are decorated with mosaics from different artistic periods. The building
has five large domes. The church is
decorated inside with gilded mosaics
and treasures representing stories
from the Bible. The floors are decorated with Cosmati floor mosaics.
To see: La Pala d'Oro, il Tesoro.
SAN EUSTACHIO - VULGO S. STAE
map: E3 - S.Polo, Campo S. Stae
ph. +39.041.2750462 - Tickets: € 2.00
Opening: 10.00 -17.00; Sunday 13.00-17.00
Founded in the 12th century, it was
rebuilt during the 17th century. At the
beginning of the 18th century the
orientation was also modified with
the construction of the façade by
Domenico Rossi facing the Grand
Canal. The church contains a veritable compendium of Venetian 18thcentury paintings including an early
work by Tiepolo.
To see: works by Tiepolo, Ricci, Piazzetta.
BASILICA DEI FRARI
map: D4 - S. Polo, 3072
ph. +39.041.2728611 - Tickets: € 2.00
Opening: 9.00-17.00; Sunday 13.00-17.00
This church is one of the most famous
Venetian monuments because of the
masterpieces and historical interest
contained within. It is an example of
Gothic architecture in Venice between the 14th and 15th century and
is laid out in the form of a Latin cross,
composed of three naves and divided
by twelve huge pillars; the central
Thanks to:
Associazione Chiese di Venezia
The Foundation for the
Churches of Venice
A short description of the important
churches, schools, places of worship
and city's monuments accompanied
with timetables, prices and events.
Una breve descrizione di importanti
chiese, scuole, luoghi di culto e monumenti della città accompagnata da
orari, prezzi e manifestazioni.
ness to this building's long history.
To see: La Crocifissione by Paolo
Veneziano, la pala by Lorenzo Lotto,
and the eucharistic theme cycle by
Jacopo Palma il Giovane.
MADONNA DELL'ORTO
map: E1 - Cannaregio, 3511
ph. +39.041.2750462 - Tickets: € 2.00
Opening: 10.00-17.00; Sunday 13.00-17.00
Built in the middle of the 12th century, it was rebuilt starting from 1399
and during the following century. It is
one of the typical Venetian Gothic
religious buildings. The façade is
rather like a basilica and the very
luminous interior is composed of a
nave and two aisles. It was Tintoretto’s
parish and he is buried there.
To see: works by J.Palma il Giovane and
many prodigious works by J.Tintoretto.
Bishop of Oderzo. It is one of the earliest of eight churches built in the
lagoon during the 7th century. In the
12th century it was rebuilt in the form
of a Greek cross. The shape underlines
the resettlement begun in 1492 by
Mauro Codussi, the leading architect
of the early Venetian Renaissance.
Codussi left it unfinished on his death.
In the interior, a striking play of lights
emphasises the centrality of the church
and the interesting vaults and domes.
To see: the famous Polittico by J.
Palma il Vecchio, The Last Supper by
Leandro Bassano
S. MARIA DEL GIGLIO
map: E5 - C.po S.M. Zobenigo
ph. +39.041.2750462 - Tickets: € 2,00
Opening: 10.00 -17.00; Sunday;13.00 -17.00
SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO
This church, built in the 9th century,
was renovated between the end of
1300 and the beginning of the 14th
century according to late gothic
models. In 1804 the church was
extensively restructured under the
supervision of architect Davide Rossi.
These works were so costly that, after
escaping the Napoleonic expropriations, the church found itself having to
sell off many of its works of art. In
1930, after renovation and restoration
works, the splendid wooden ceiling
shaped like a ship's hull was returned
to its former splendour. The possibility
of comparing the works by G.B. and
Giandomenico Tiepolo - father and
son - is particularly interesting.
To see: The Apparition of the Virgin
before Saint Giovanni Nepomuceno
by G.B. Tiepolo, Il ciclo della Via
Crucis by Giandomenico Tiepolo.
SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO
map: D3 - Santa Croce
ph. +39.041.2750462 - Tickets: € 2.00
Opening: 10.00-17.00; Sunday 13.00-17.00
This church was probably built in the
9th-10th century in the area called
“Luprio” from which - through
various phonetic evolutions - the current name of Orio derives. The facade is Romanesque and the interior is
laid out as a Latin cross with three
naves and a large transept. the
enchanting wooden ceiling is particularly interesting, with its ship's hull
shape and decorated beams. The
church contains several works belonging to various periods, bearing wit-
map: L5 - C.po S. Pietro di Castello
ph. +39.041.2750462 - Tickets: € 2.00
Opening: 10.00-17.00; Sunday 13.00-17.00
Legend has it that the church was
built on the ancient Olivolo island,
which was the first settlement of the
inhabitants of Venice. The church is
of great historical importance and was
Venice’s cathedral until 1807. The
façade is by Smeraldi, the interior is in
the form of a Latin cross, with one
nave and two aisles and a large dome
in the centre of the transept.
To see: Il Castigo dei Serpenti by
Pietro Liberi and the mosaic ancona
Tutti i Santi by A.Zuccato.
SANT’ALVISE
map: D1 - Cannaregio, 3282
ph. +39.041.2750462 - Tickets: € 2.00
Opening: 10.00-17.00; Sunday 13.00-17.00
It was built starting from 1388, after
the miraculous appearance of St.
Louis Bishop of Toulouse, called
Alvise by Venetians, to a noble
woman called Antonia Venier. The
interior is a typical example of a convent church. It is composed of one
nave with the ancient 15th century
bark supported by columns and barbicans, which directly connects with
the convent nuns.
To see: the ceiling entirely frescoed
by Torri and P. Ricci and the Ascent to
Calvary, juvenile work by Tiepolo.
The façade, built from 1678 to 1682 is
one of the most characteristic creations
of Baroque Venetian art. The interior is
composed of a single nave of a simple
appearance, but it turns out to be a
magnificent art shop window.
To see: Abramo che spartisce il
mondo masterpiece by A.Zanchi, La
Sacra Famiglia ascribed to P.P.Rubens.
Remarkable are The Stations of the
Via Crucis, works by several painters
of the 18th century.
SANTISSIMO REDENTORE
map: E7 - Giudecca, 195
ph. +39.041.2750462 - Tickets: € 2.00
Opening: 10.00-17.00; Sunday 13.00-17.00
S. MARIA FORMOSA
map: G4 - Castello, 5263
ph. 041.2750462 - Tickets: € 2.00
Opening: 10.00 - 17.00; Sunday 13.00 - 17.00
According to legend, the church was
founded in 639 AD by St. Magno,
One of the greatest examples of Palladio’s architecture and by some considered his masterpiece. It is a votive
temple, devoted to the Redeemer. It
was built as a result of a motion car-
CHORUS
Museum of the city
info: +39.041.2750462
CHORUS CHURCHES:
Santa Maria del Giglio
S. M. Gloriosa dei Frari
Madonna dell’Orto
Santo Stefano
San Polo
S. Pietro di Castello
Santa Maria Formosa
San Giacomo dall’Orio
SS. Redentore
S. Maria dei Miracoli
San Stae
Gesuati
S. G. Elemosinario
Sant’Alvise
San Sebastiano
Chorus - The foundation for
the churches of Venice - invites
you to visit the works of art treasures in the churches of the
town. The rooms of the most
incredible "museum" in Venice
are now available to see you
through an exciting discovery of
more than one thousand years of
Venetian art and history. You
will be able to admire the pictorial and architectural masterpieces of the great masters such as
Veronese, Titian, Tintoretto,
Palladio, Codussi in the very
places they had been conceived
for, with common and continuous visiting hours. You will
become part of an ambitious
project aimed at preserving the
cultural heritage of the town.
The proceeds collected from the
sale of the tickets will help in
the restoration of the churches
of Venice.
Chorus Vi invita a visitare i
tesori d'arte conservati nelle
chiese della città.
Le sale del più incredibile
"museo" di Venezia sono a
Vostra disposizione per un
viaggio entusiasmante alla
scoperta di più di mille anni di
arte e storia.
I capolavori pittorici e architettonici creati dai più grandi
Maestri, come Veronese, Tiziano, Tintoretto, Palladio, Codussi da ammirare nei luoghi
per cui erano stati pensati.
Ora queste opere, e le sedi che
le custodiscono, sono facilmente visitabili con orari comuni e
continuati: un ambizioso progetto che Vi renderà protagonisti di un importante recupero
del patrimonio culturale della
città. I proventi realizzati sono
utilizzati infatti per il restauro
delle chiese di Venezia.
CHURCHES guide
CHURCHES guide

of many other relics “found” –
or rather stolen – by faithful
Venetian sea-goers returning
form Eastern lands. Brought
to Venice in the remote 1109,
the body had been accompanied by solemn liturgical and
civil ceremonials which gave
rise to the tradition of the
Doge’s visit on Christmas day
and on the following day –
the day of San Stefano – that
was, according to historians,
the most outstanding and suggestive of all the feasts of the
ancient Republic. Resting
close to him, in the same
church, there are the sacred
remains of San Giorgio, the
Christian Knight, protector of
the Crusaders. He killed the
Dragon, symbol of all Vices
and Sins, to save the beautiful
unfaithful princess thus obtaining his people’s and his own
conversion. The church contains a canvas by Vittore
Carpaccio quoting the one
that can be admired at the
‘Scuola degli Schiavoni’ – illustrating the rest of the story –
depicting the young saint
wading himself at a gallop
into the dangerous beast. It is
preserved in the Superior
Chapel, that was, between
December 1799 and March
1800, seat of the Conclave –
meeting of Cardinals – that
elected Pope Pio VII. This
testifies to the importance
attached at that time to the
Benedictine convent built in
the X century and later enlarged to cover the entire island.
The church was rebuilt between 1565 and 1610 on the
project of Andrea Palladio,
who followed the precepts of
the Council of Trent that had
terminated at that time. The
wide nave, the raised choir
around the main altar recall
the basilicas of the Christian
origin making it perfectly fit
for renewed liturgical and
devotional forms and leaving
more room for believers.

ried by the Senate after the plague
that struck Venice in 1575. The classical façade is placed at the top of a
great flight of steps. The interior is very
sober, but impressive and solemn.
To see: works by D. Tintoretto, F. Bassano
Events: every year, the third Sunday of
July, the temple is the destination of a
Venetian pilgrimage.
SANTA MARIA DEI MIRACOLI
map: F4 - Cannaregio, 6063
ph. +39.041.2750462 - Tickets: € 2.00
Opening: 10.00-17.00; Sunday 13.00-17.00
The church was built between 1481
and 1489 by Pietro Lombardo to house
the miracle-working image of the Virgin
by Nicolò di Pietro venerated by
Venetian people for her thaumaturgic
power. The façade is covered with carefully selected coloured marbles and
porphyry panels. The high altar (the
only altar) is decorated with statues.
To see: the vault with its decorated caissons represents Profeti e Patriarchi, work
by V.delle Destre, Lattanzio da Rimini,
Pier Maria and Gerolamo Pennacchi.
BASILICA DELLA SALUTE
map: E6 - Dorsoduro, 1
ph. +39.041.5225558 - Tickets: free
Opening: 9.00-12.00 / 15.00-18.00
sphere may be inherited from the
time when it was used for the obsequies and burials of the Doges.
Because of that, the church is called
the Venetian Pantheon. The façade
has an impressive portal; the magnificent interior space is in the form of a
Latin cross, has three
naves and a polygonal apse.
To see: Monumento al Doge Pietro
Mocenigo by T. Lombardo.
CHURCHES guide

BASILICA DEI
SS. GIOVANNI E PAOLO
map: G4 - Castello, 6363
ph. +39.041.5237510 - Tickets: free
Opening: 9-12.30 / 15.30-18 Sun. 15.30 -18
It was built between the 14th and
15th centuries and is the largest
church in Venice. Its particular atmo-
map: G5 - Castello, 3701
ph. +39.041.5231096
Opening: See programme
SCUOLA GRANDE DI
S.GIOVANNI EVANGELISTA
map: C3 - Cannaregio, 54
ph. +39.041.715115 - Tickets: free
Opening: 9.00-11.50 / 16.00-18.00
Built by the Carmelites and dedicated
to Saint Mary of Nazareth, it was designed by B. Longhena. The church was
consecrated in 1705. The façade,
made of Carrara marble, is an example of the Baroque Venetian style; the
interior is composed of one nave
whose beautiful vault, which collapsed in 1915 because of the explosion
of an Austrian bomb, was frescoed by
Gianbattista Tiepolo.
To see: sculptures, gilt and polychromatic decorations and the fine marbles.
The 15th century original church was
rebuilt in the middle of the 18th century by Massari. The classical façade
with an impressive portal and the
interior, built in the form of an oval
plan, with an arched ceiling is one of
the most beautiful churches of the
18th century. Thank to the cooperation of I Virtuosi dell'Ensemble di
Venezia and Le Putte Veneziane di
Vivaldi, the church can be used as a
concert hall. Music is also the theme
of the superb frescoes on the ceiling.
To see: La Carità sculpture by E. Marsili
and, on the ceiling, Le Virtu' Cardinali
and a beautiful fresco representing Il
Paradiso by G.B.Tiepolo.
SAN ZACCARIA
map: G5 - Castello, 4593
ph. +39.041.5221257
Opening: 10.00-12.00 / 16.00-18.00;
Sunday 16.00-18.00 - Tickets: € 2,00
LA CATTEDRALE
Isola di Torcello - ph. +39.041.730084
Tickets: € 3.00 - Opening: 10.00-17.00
BASILICA DI S.MARIA E DONATO
map: L2 - Murano, c.po S. Donato 11
ph. +39.041.739056 - Tickets: free
Opening: 09.00-12.00 / 15.30-18.30
map: D4 - S.Polo, 2454
ph. +39.041.718234
One of the Scuole Grandi and because of its history, art and Venetian culture it is considered one of the greatest. The building is a splendid
Renaissance architecture example.
The elegant double stairway inside, lit
with large arched windows, was built
by Codussi. The beautiful exterior
Renaissance iconostasis with its carved decoration was designed by P.
Lombardo.
To see: the ceiling with visions of the
Apocalisse, works of great teachers
(G.B. Tiepolo, Diziani, Marieschi).
Events: Orchestra di Venezia concerts,
in original 18th century costumes.
SCUOLA GRANDE DI S. MARCO
map: G4- San Marco, campo
SS. Giovanni e Paolo
The old church, which belonged to
the nuns of the convent of the same
name, is located near the main
church, which was built by Codussi
between 1480 and 1500. The new
façade is a typical example of
Venetian Renaissance. Columns with
beautiful capitals divided the interior
into three aisles. The great altar is surmounted by a cross-vault and hemispheric dome. The stunning interior is
literally covered with paintings.
SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE
map: G6 - Isola di S. Giorgio
ph. +39.041.5227827 - Tickets: free
Opening: 9.30-12.30 / 14.30-18.00
One of the most beautiful VenetianByzantine buildings of the 12th century. The exterior of the hexagonal
apse is very interesting, both for its
architectural beauty and the wealth of
its decorative elements. Five columns
of Greek marble divide the interior
into three naves. The wooden ceiling
looks like an overturned ship’s hull.
To see: the mosaic floor with decorative patterns and symbolic pictures of
animals.
in the form of a Latin cross and it is
laid out in three naves, a central
dome, a transept, and an arched ceiling. The high altar, with the chorus
behind it, is splendid and solemn.
To see: The Lost Supper and Manna
from Heaven by J.Tintoretto, the
ancona La Purificazione della Vergine
by J. Palma il Giovane
SCHOOLS
DEGLI SCALZI
An 11th-century Venetian-Byzantine
building in the form of a Romanic
Basilica. This is the oldest monument
of this type preserved in the lagoon.
The simple and solemn interior is
made up of precious marble and gilt
mosaics.
To see: the mosaics of the small apse on
the right side and of the triumphal arch.
On 22 October 1630 the Venetian
Senate decreed the building of a large
temple devoted to the Virgin to give
thanks for the survival of Venice after
the plague. The design is by B.
Longhena. The church is built in the
form of a central plan, dominated by a
huge dome with great arches. A magnificent stairway leads up to the entrance.
The polychrome marble floor converges
on a central circle of five roses suggesting the decades of the rosary.
To see: Nozze di Canaan by J. Tintoretto,
Pentecoste by Tiziano, Byzantine Madonna of the 13th century.
Events: every year on 21 November the
Venetians pay homage to the Virgin
who saved Venice from the plague.
S. M. DELLA PIETA' VIVALDI’S CHURCH
It is a magnificent work of holy architecture by Andrea Palladio, built between 1566 and 1610. The interior is
One of the Scuole Grandi and one
of the most important examples of
Lombard Renaissance in Venice.
Almost completely destroyed by a
fire in 1485, it was rebuilt, first
under the direction of Pietro
Lombardo and then under the
architect by Mauro Codussi, who
created the interior main stair and
the upper part of the façade. After
the additions and the enlargement
of the back part, designed by J.
Sansovino, the building is almost
intact and today houses Venice’s
public hospital.
SCUOLA GRANDE DI S.ROCCO
map: D4 - San Polo, 3054
ph. +39.041.5234864 - Tickets: € 5.00
Opening: 10.00-16.00
The 16th century Renaissance building, designed by Bartolomeo Bon,
lodges the school dedicated to Saint
Roch the protector of sick and plague
stricken people. Saint Roch Arch confraternity’s seat is still very active in
the organisation of cultural meetings
and concerts.
To see: an extraordinary collection of
works by Tintoretto, the numerous art
treasures of the 15th century, the
historic Nacchini organ.
Events: cultural meetings and
concerts.
304 (70%)
in stone
in pietra
78(18%)
in iron
in ferro
52 (12%)
in wood
in legno
1
3623 mt.
N
longest Littorio
il più lungo Littorio
public
pubblici
86 (20%)
private
privati
Calatrava
Chi li ha contati dice ce ne siano 434 e collegano da riva a
riva più di 100 isole. Per ognuno di questi c’è una storia da
raccontare.
without railings
senza parapetto
347 (80%)
XXII th. century
Venezia
tra le rive
over the Grand Canal
sul Canal Grande
oldest
il più vecchio
newest
il più nuovo
Venice from
both side
Those who have made the effort to count claim that
there is a total of 434 bridges connecting the more than
100 islands making up Venice. Each has its own history.
obody is actually quite
sure exactly how many
there are. Guide-books
on Venice talk of about 400,
but the figure is not precise.
An exact count is difficult not
least because the very definition of a bridge in Venice is
rather tricky to pin down.
Should it include the private
ones, those just above the
water, those connecting two
buildings separated by a
canal, double and triple bridges and those within the
Venice Arsenal? Those who
have made the effort to count
claim that there is a total of
434 bridges connecting the
more than 100 islands making up Venice. Each has its
own history. One example is
the Bridge of Tits in San
Cassiano between the districts of San Polo and San
Croce. It was given this name
because the windows of the
building at the foot of the
bridge were used by prostitutes to expose their breasts and
legs on the authority of the
Senate of the Republic, a measure that hoped to counteract
the popularity of sodomy, a
common practice in Renaissance Venice. Or there is the
very famous and much-photographed Bridge of Sighs connecting the Doge’s Palace
with the Prison building,
designed by Antonio Condino
and completed in 1600. It
takes its name from the popular belief that it was possible
to hear the sighs of prisoners
taken in chains from the
n realtà non si sa quanti
siano. Sulle guide di
Venezia si parla di “circa
400”, ma il dato è impreciso.
Difficile contarli soprattutto
perché non si sa come definire un ponte.
Quelli privati, quelli a raso
sull’acqua, quelli che collegano due palazzi separati da un
canale, quelli doppi e tripli e
quelli interni all’ Arsenale di
Venezia. Chi li ha contati
dice che in città ce ne siano
in tutto 434 che collegano da
riva a riva più di 100 isole.
Per ognuno di questi c’è una
storia da raccontare. Come il
Ponte delle Tette a San
Cassiano fra i sestieri di San
Polo e Santa Croce, chiamato così perché alle finestre
del palazzetto, ai piedi di
questo ponte, si affacciavano
alcune prostitute autorizzate
dal Senato della Repubblica
a mostrare i seni e ad esporre le gambe dai balconi per
contrastare la sodomia che
nel Rinascimento era pratica
assai diffusa fra i veneziani.
O il celeberrimo e fotografatissimo ponte dei Sospiri che
collega il Palazzo Ducale al
Palazzo delle Prigioni, progettato da Antonio Contino
e ultimato nel 1600, che
prese il nome dalla voce
popolare che voleva sospiranti i prigionieri che dal tribunale venivano accompagnati in catene alle prigioni
di Stato dove spesso subivano dolorosissime prigionie.
Tutti, dal più sconosciuto al
più studiato, mantengono
I
Drawbridge over the Royal Gardens.
Ponte Chiodo in Cannaregio: the last bridge without railings.
SPECIAL
3
bridges in Venice
ponti a Venezia
© Archivio Storico Comunale “Fondo Giacomelli”
434

IL PONTE DELL’ACCADEMIA
In the first decades of the new century, with the spreading
of new constructive technologies, a competition was
announced for the creation of a new bridge just in front of
the “Gallerie”. The 1933 winner project – by Torres and
Briazza – was not carried out in the end. However, the work
was to be renewed and the present bridge, originally planned to be only provisory, was constructed.
IL PONTE DELL’ACCADEMIA
Nei primi decenni del ventesimo secolo, con l'affermarsi di
moderne tecnologie costruttive, venne indetto un concorso per la realizzazione di un nuovo ponte di fronte alle
Gallerie. Il progetto vincitore del 1933 (Torres e Briazza)
non venne poi realizzato. Rimaneva comunque la necessità di rinnovare l'opera: fu costruito un ponte che, solo
nelle intenzioni, doveva essere provvisorio.
© Archivio Storico Comunale “Fondo Giacomelli”
inalterato il proprio fascino.
Il Ponte del Paradiso, tra San
Lio e Santa Maria Formosa,
chiamato in questo modo
forse per via dello sfarzo
durante i venerdì di festa.
Ma anche Ponte del Diavolo,
Ponte dell’Angelo, Ponte dei
Miracoli, della Donna Onesta,
dei Cuoridoro, della Guerra,
de la Pazienza, del Sepolcro,
dei Squartai, della Umiltà,
dei Muti, della Pietà. Spesso
i loro nomi sono quelli dei
proprietari dei palazzi vicini,
oppure fanno riferimento
all’artigiano che nei pressi
del ponte lavorava o al commercio che lì vicino si teneva: Ponte delle Erbe, del
Formager (formaggiaio), del
Forner (del fornaio), del
Forno, del Megio (miglio),
della Veste, delle Vele (c’era
un fabbricante di vele per
barca). Insomma i ponti a
Venezia non sono solo uno
strumento di collegamento,
ma descrivono la storia del
quotidiano in questa particolarissima città.
Venezia si mostrava come un
cumulo di isole e isolotti,
vicini abbastanza da essere
uniti uno all’altro. Il più
grande di questi era Rivo
Alto che nel 1172 fu collegato a campo San Bartolomio
da un grande ponte di barche. Se non per questa unione, le due parti della città
rimasero divise dal lungo
serpentone del Canal Grande fino al 1852 quando, sotto
la dominazione austriaca, si
costruì il Ponte dell’Accademia fra San Vidal e
Campo della Carità, fra i
sestieri di San Marco e
Dorsoduro. I primi ponti
costruiti a cavallo di due rive
furono delle semplici passerelle piane in legno da spostare al passaggio di piccole
imbarcazioni, costantemente
aggrediti dall’umido e bisognosi di manutenzioni. Uno
fra i primi ponti costruiti in
pietra fu quello di San
ges was the one dating from
around 1337 at San Barnaba
in Dorsoduro.
From the records it appears
that the very first stone bridge
was the Ponte della Canonica, built in the twelfth
century. Often bridges were
built unannounced over a single night, so much so that
many of such bridges were
given (and kept) the name
Ponte delle Meravegie”.
This was also because already
at the end of the 13th century
such practices were forbidden.
All were originally built
without parapets - these were
added later for safety reasons.
Few bridges are left without
parapets: the Ponte Chiodo,
found at the end of the
Fondamenta San Felice in
Cannaregio, and restored in
1930, is one; another is the
Ponte del Diavolo on Torcello
island. Even the Ponte dei
Pugni did not have parapets.
It marked the division between two popular factions in
the City - the Castellani and
the Nicolotti, who were always in dispute.
Among the first to live in the
districts of San Marco, Castello and the eastern part of
Dorsoduro were the Arsenalotti, the skilled workmen
employed in the Venice
Arsenal.
The Nicolotti lived in the
quarters of Cannaregio, San
Polo, San Croce and the
western part of Dorsoduro.
They included the proud fishermen of San Niccolò dei
Mendicoli.
From 1292 onwards, fist
fights could be seen from
September to Christmas, staged on the various bridges
throughout Venice.
Since the San Barnaba bridge
could be seen by the greatest
number of spectators from the
houses nearby, but these
hand-to-hand battled were
abolished in 1705.
1934 - The ponte degli Scalzi (in the photograph,
close to the 19th century iron one) near the railway
station.
1934 - Il ponte degli Scalzi (nella foto accanto a
quello ottocentesco in ferro) in prossimità della stazione dei treni.
© Archivio Storico Comunale “Fondo Giacomelli”
Barnaba in sestiere di Dorsoduro intorno al 1337, ma le
cronache fanno risalire la
prima costruzione in pietra
al ponte della Canonica nel
XII secolo.
Spesso si costruivano di
nascosto, in una sola notte,
tanto che molti di questi
presero e mantennero il
nome di “Ponte delle Meravegie” (delle Meraviglie)
anche perché senza permessi, già dal finire del 1200,
tale pratica era vietata e
punita. Tutti erano senza
parapetti, poi costruiti negli
anni fino all’800 per ragioni
di sicurezza. Di questi ne
resta uno in città, il Ponte
Chiodo alla fine della Fondamenta San Felice a Cannaregio, nonostante sia stato restaurato nel 1930. Un
altro è quello del Diavolo a
Torcello. Non aveva parapetti nemmeno il Ponte dei
Pugni che collega Campo e
rio Terà Santa Margherita a
Campo San Barnaba.
Divideva due fazioni popolari della città: i Castellani e
i Nicolotti, sempre in lotta
fra loro. Fra i primi, che
abitavano i sestieri di San
Marco, Castello e la parte
orientale di Dorsoduro, c’erano gli arsenalotti, gli operai specializzati dell’ Arsenale.
Fra i Nicolotti, che abitavano Cannaregio, San Polo,
Santa Croce e Dorsoduro di
ponente, c’erano i fieri
pescatori di San Niccolò dei
Mendicoli.
Tra settembre e Natale, dal
1292, si combattevano lotte
a mani nude su diversi ponti
di Venezia, ma quello di San
Barnaba poteva contenere
più spettatori alle finestre
delle case vicine e fu scelto
per le numerose occasioni
di scontro.
Tali lotte furono abolite nel
1705 perché definite troppo
cruente.
SPECIAL
SPECIAL

Court to the State Prisons
where they were invariably
imprisoned with great cruelty.
All these bridges - from the
least known to the most
famous and best studied -have
lost none of their fascination.
The Paradise Bridge between
San Lio and Santa Maria
Formosa gained this name
perhaps because of the splendour of the area during Friday
feast days. Other names
include the Devil’s Bridge,
Angel’s Bridge, Bridge of
Miracles, of the Honest
Woman, Golden-hearted, of
War, of Patience, of the
Sepulchre, of the Executed, of
Humbleness, of the Dumb, of
Pity. Often their names are
those of the owners of the
nearby buildings or refer to
the crafts or trades carried out
nearby: Bridge of Herbs,
Cheese-maker, baker, bakery,
millet, clothes, sails.
Venetian bridges are thus not
solely a means of connection
but are also a description of
the social history of this very
special city.
Venice began life as a group of
islands and islets that were
close enough to be joined
together. The biggest of these
was Rivo Alto. In 1172 it was
connected to Campo San Bartolomeo by a large pontoon
bridge. Had it not been for
this bridge, the city would
have been divided in two by
the long, snaking Grand
Canal. This was up to 1852
when, under Austrian dominion, the Accademia bridge
was built between San Vidal
and Campo della Carità, joining the districts of St. Mark’s
and Dorsoduro. The first
bridges used to connect the
two sides of a canal were little more than wooden catwalks that had to be moved to
allow free passage to boats.
They were always vulnerable
to the damp environment and
needed frequent maintenance. One of the first stone brid-

SHOPPING guide
Accessories
Antiques
Jeweller’s shops
Boutiques & Griffes
Handicraft
Foot wear
ANTIQUES
ANTICHITA’ CESANA
Calle XXII Marzo - S.Marco, 2070
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5227789
GIOIELLERIA CODOGNATO
San Marco, 1295
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5225042
LE ZOIE
Calle dei Boteri - S.Polo, 1566
map: E4 - ph. +39.041.2758694
Fondamenta Serenella, 12 - Murano
map: L3 - ph. +39.041.739878
SEGUSO GIANNI
F.ta Serenella, 3 - Murano
map: L3 - ph. +39.041.739005
Calle XXII Marzo - S.Marco, 2088
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5244395
VENINI
Piazza San Marco, 314
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5224045
I negozi sono aperti dalle 10 a.m. alle
7.30 p.m. Segue una selezione dei
migliori e particolari esercizi commerciali divisi per categoria merceologica. Una vasta panoramica in
grado di rispondere a qualsiasi esigenza: il tutto garantito da VM.
FRUTTAEVERDURA
C.po SS.Apostoli - Cannaregio, 4451
map: F3 - ph. +39.041.2411572
VIVARINI
F.ta Serenella, 5/6 - Murano
map: L3 - ph. +39.041.736077
MI.BA. ART
San Polo, 1589
map: E4 - ph. +39.041.5244395
PALESA GALLERY
BOOKS & MUSIC
Piazza San Marco, 145
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5229338
LIBRERIA MONDADORI
At Palesa galleries you will find a wide
collection of original products of the
ancient Murano traditions.
LINEA VETRO DI SIMONE CENEDESE
Fondamenta Vetrai, 68 - Murano
map: L3 - ph. +39.041.736266
On show the collection “Time Flies”
realized with the American designer
John Drake-Moore.
BARBINI
Fondamenta Venier, 44/48 - Murano
map: L2 - ph. +39.041.739270
San Marco, 1345
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5222193
CLOTHING
AL DUCA D'AOSTA
Mercerie - S. Marco, 4945/46
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5220733
BLACK WATCH
Calle del Forno - San Marco, 4594
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5231945
CAMICERIA S. MARCO
ERCOLE MORETTI & F.LLI
Calle Vallaresso - S. Marco, 1340
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5221432
Fondamenta Navagero, 42 - Murano
map: L2 - ph. +39.041.739083
CERIELLO
FORMIA
Campo SS.Filippo e Giacomo, 4275
map: G5 - ph. +39.041.5222062
Fondamenta Vetrai, 138 - Murano
map: L2 - ph. +39.041.739285
FIORELLA GALLERY
Calle del Lovo - San Marco, 4822
map: F4 - ph. +39.041.2411945
A wide collection of coloured accessories!
Campo S. Stefano - S. Marco, 2806
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5209228
FURLA
LA COUPOLE MAN
COCCINELLE
San Salvador - San Marco, 4833
map: F4 - ph. +39.041.2770460
Calle XXII Marzo - S.Marco, 2366
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5224243
SERMONETA GLOVES
LA COUPOLE WOMAN
BORSALINO
Mercerie - San Marco, 4958
map: F4 - ph. +39.041.2770658
Calle XXII Marzo - S.Marco, 2400/a
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.2777852
www.sermonetagloves.com
Palesa Gallery
LE PERLE
Murano
San Marco, 1231
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5285614
MANDARINA DUCK
San Marco - Mercerie, 4862
ph./fax +39.041.5225940
Mercerie - San Marco, 193
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5223325
Coccinelle is the brand that offers
today’s woman the most suitable
array of coordinated accessories for
every occasion.
BOTTEGA VENETA
San Marco, 1337
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5228489
Sermoneta
gloves
Venezia
Calle XXII Marzo 2400/A
tel./fax 39 041 2777852
Calle XXII Marzo - S.Marco, 2414
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.2960555
A tour amongst the fires to participate in the birth of Formia glassware.
SEGUSO VIRO
Piazza San Marco, 289-305
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.2770739
Roma
Piazza di Spagna 61
tel. 39 06 6791960
fax. 39 06 6797167
LA COUPOLE BABY
Calle XXII Marzo - S.Marco, 2254
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5231273
LA TOUR
Calle Larga S. Marco, 287
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5225147
Exhibition of contemporary art glass
works, unique and limited editions.
HIBISCUS
MAZZEGA
Calle de l’Ogio - San Polo, 1060
map: E4 - ph. +39.041.5208989
F.ta da Mula, 147 - Murano
Offering you innovative and colourful
www.sermonetagloves.com
Milano
via della Spiga 46
tel. 39 02 76318303
fax. 39 02 76318993
SHOPPING guide
In the atelier 'Le Zoie' you feel a real
love for art and beautiful things.
Passionate antiques collector, Michele
Dal Bon, offers a wide choice of
jewellery, watches, icon paintings and
antique silver.
ACCESSORIES
SHOPPING guide
NASON & MORETTI
MA.RE
Opening hours: 10 a.m. - 7.30 p.m.
The listing proposes a directory of
the best and original stores, organized in product categories.
It is a complete list, edited by the
VM staff, able to satisfy all your
requirements.

Piazza San Marco, 73
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5235484
Calle XXII Marzo - S. Marco, 2088
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5231191
shopping info
www.palesagallery.com
PAULY & C.
SALVIATI
GLASS ART
Piazza San Marco, 145
ph./fax +39.041.5229338
map: L2 - ph. +39.041.736888

MARLY’S
San Marco, 1321
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5223851
VOGINI STYLE / LORO PIANA
C. de l’Ascension - S. Marco, 1257/A
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5222573
BOUTIQUE - GRIFFE
ARMANI JEANS
Calle Goldoni - S. Marco, 4485
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5236948
AGNONA
San Marco, 1316
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5205733
BLUMARINE
Calle XXII Marzo - S.Marco, 2031
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5232754
Venezia
Paris
BRUNO MAGLI
Mercerie San Marco, 4958
tel. 041.2770658
326, Rue St. Honor
tel. 01.44553211
Frezzeria - S. Marco, 1583/85
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5223472
Verona
Singapore
BRUNO MAGLI
Via Mazzini, 56
tel. 045.592051
Milano
Via Manzoni, ang. via Bigli
tel. 02.76028161
London
13, Duke of York Square
tel. 020.77307657
Paragon # 03-02
tel. 068.874947
Singapore
Raffles City - 1F
tel. 063.396214
Tokyo
Shin-Kokusai Building 1F, 3-4-1,
Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku
tel. 03.34783003
S. Marco, 1302
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5227210
CALVIN KLEIN JEANS
Calle Goldoni - San Marco, 4599
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5202164
DIESEL STORE
Salizada Pio X - San Marco, 5315/6
map: F4 - ph. +39.041.2411937
DOLCE & GABBANA
Mercerie - San Marco, 223/226
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5287933
EMPORIO ARMANI
Calle dei Fabbri - S. Marco, 989
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5237808
FENDI
S. Marco, 1474
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.2778532
GIORGIO ARMANI
Calle Goldoni - S. Marco, 4412
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5234758
The first european
specialist of sunglasses
GUCCI
Mercerie - San Marco, 258
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5229119
HENRY COTTON’S
Campo S. Luca - S. Marco, 4574
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5228485
HERMES
Procuratie Vecchie - S. Marco, 127
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5210117
KENZO
SHOPPING guide
Ramo dei Fuseri - S. Marco, 1814
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5205733

KRIZIA
Mercerie - San Marco, 4948
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5212762
www.solaris.fr
VENEZIA:
San Marco, 5044
C.po S. Bartolomeo
ph. +39.041.2413818
LACOSTE
Mercerie - San Marco, 218
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5237678
LOUIS VUITTON
C. L. de l’Ascension - S.Marco, 1255
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5224500
LUISA SPAGNOLI
Mercerie - San Marco, 741
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5237728
MALO
C. delle Ostreghe - S. Marco, 2359
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5232162
MAX MARA
Mercerie - San Marco, 268
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5226688
MAX & CO
Mercerie - San Marco, 5028
map: F4 - ph. +39.041.5230817
MISSONI
ULTIMATE
shopping
ORIGINAL IDEAS FOR YOUR
SHOPPING.
IDEE ORIGINALI PER IL VOSTRO
SHOPPING.
Calle Vallaresso - S. Marco, 1312/N
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5205733
PAL ZILERI
Mercerie - San Marco, 4928
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5229020
PRADA STORE
Campo S. Moisè - S. Marco, 1469
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5283966
ROBERTO CAVALLI
Calle Vallaresso - S. Marco, 1316
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5205733
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
Calle XXII Marzo - S. Marco, 2098
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.2778509
TRUSSARDI UOMO DONNA
Spadaria - San Marco, 695
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5285757
VALENTINO
Corte Foscara - S. Marco, 1473
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5205733
VERSUS
Frezzeria - S. Marco, 1725
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5289319
JEWELLERS
BULGARI
Calle XXII Marzo - S. Marco, 2282
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.2410553
GIOIELLERIA BONCOMPAGNI
Piazza San Marco, 131/132
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5224563
CARTIER
Campo S.Zulian - S. Marco, 606
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5222071
1
2
3
4
5
1|DOGE COLLECTION
From the Lagoon to the Doge of Venice, going
through the Orient to reach scents, aromas and
deep tastes of the mother earth.
CAFFE’ DEL DOGE
Available in all Caffè del Doge’s coffee shops
2|KIEV, 1908-1917 IN THE REIGN OF NIK II
Matches box in gold 585/000 and siberian jade
nephrite with Romanov’s imperial symbol in diamonds and sapphires.
ATELIER LE ZOIE
Calle dei Boteri 1566, San Polo - Venezia
3|SPRING-SUMMER 2005 COLLECTION
Coccinella Bag. Practicality and comfort for a
glamorous everyday use.
COCCINELLE
Mercerie 4958, San Marco - Venezia
DAMIANI
4|BOTTEGA VENETA
The ultimate 2005 collection by “Bottega Veneta”
SOLARIS
C.po S.Bartolomeo - S. Marco, 5044 - Venezia
Salizada S. Moisè - S. Marco, 1494
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.2770661
GANESHA
Ruga Rialto - S. Polo, 1044
map: E4 - ph. +39.041.5225148
5|AMERICA NECKLACE
Handmade Murano glass beads containing 22kt gold.
LE PERLE
Frezzeria - San Marco, 1231
MISSAGLIA
Piazza San Marco, 125
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5224464
6|CRISTAL
This 3D face-scan lasers your face into glass as a
souvenir for the eternity.
GALLERIA CRISTALLO
Calle dei Fabbri 1037, San Marco - Venezia
SALVADORI
Mercerie - San Marco, 5022
map: F4 - ph. +39.041.5230609
SWATCH STORE
Mercerie - San Marco, 4947
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5228532
TOKATZIAN
Piazza San Marco, 18
6
7
7|MARLY’S TAILLEUR
For the lady who dresses smartly and comfortably.
MARLY’S BOUTIQUE
Calle Vallaresso 1321a, San Marco - Venezia
ULTIMATE
womens wear; hand-made jewellery,
scarves, bags and many “one-off” pieces.

map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5233821
SOLARIS
C.po S.Bartolomeo - S. Marco, 5044
map: F4 - ph. +39.041.2413818
Ganesha
IL CANOVACCIO
Castello, 5369/70
map: F4 - ph. +39.041.5210393
Ruga Rialto ¥ San Polo 1044 ¥ Venice 30125 ¥ Italy
tel/fax 0039 041 5225148 ¥ e-mail: [email protected]
BECCARELLO
via Villabona n.87 - Venice - Italy
ph. +39.041.920400 - fax +39.041.931636
www.beccarello.it - [email protected]
Legend has it that once, in Piazza San Marco, there was a wine banquet that during the summer moved after the shade
of the bell’s tower. Each of the glasses sold could not contain less than 100ml. This is the origin of the name “ombra”
under which all Venetians call even today a glass of wine. A tradition reflecting the nature and the scent of this marvellous and unique city. Today, in the Doges’ city 50,000 ‘ombre’ are drunk everyday. A substantial figure for a city of
no more than 75,000 inhabitants. L’ombra di Venezia is a homage to the long-standing Venetian tradition. In front of
a glass of wine new friendships are formed and old ones are reinforced, deals are clinched and communicating becomes easier. Venice, its nature, history, the character of its inhabitants are centred on this rite. L’ombra di Venezia enshrines all these characteristics. The Pinot Grigio, preserved here, is 100% Venetian because is produced, in limited
quantity, with a true Venetian passion in the same earth that provided wine for the Palazzo Ducale centuries ago. Its
essence is characterized by the scents of Italy. Its colour is the result of the sun that has ripened the grapes. Thanks to
this extraordinary wine, you can breath the cordiality and friendship which can still be found today on the shades of
the Campanile. With L’ombra di Venezia you can savour the true Venetian tastes, experience the atmosphere, history
and tradition of an almost imaginary city. Holding your own bottle of wine and drinking it from your own glasses
means possessing a tiny part of that wonder. Indeed, bottles and glasses are created by a famous master glassmaker of Murano. Unique and matchless pieces produced in a limited edition of 999 samples each
different from one another.
The glass
The bottle of “L’ombra di Venezia”, made of Murano glass, has been created with
the ancient technique of the mosaic melted at high temperature. The sand has
been given its shape and colour by the fire. While the rest, the soul of this type of
Murano glass, derives from the technique and experience of the master glassmaker who has created it by blowing on the shapeless amalgam. This particular
glass has been therefore created out of that blow, out of the technique enshrined
in the inviolable secrets of the furnace. Unique and inimitable. The origin certificate and the ‘murrina’ set in the glass guarantee its quality and originality.
The wine
The Pinot Grigio “L’ombra di Venezia” is produced in the Italian farm ‘La Vigna del Cason
Brusà’ and is the result of an accurate analysis of the “terroir” carried out in cooperation with
the ‘Istituto Sperimentale’ of Conegliano. Different clones of Pinot Grigio– from two to five –
have been planted in the same vineyard, so as to emphasize their best characteristics. The harvested product, unique in its characteristics, undergoes
a treatment which respects both the tradition and the quality of the grapes.
A hard and intense process for a unique top quality. “L’ombra di Venezia”
– ‘ombra’ meaning glass of wine in the Venetian dialect – reflects the professional ability of the enterprise renowned in Italy and abroad.
PINOT GRIGIO igt Veneto
Organoleptic description: white coppery bright
colour with delicate and definite scents, fluid, rich
in salts, a wine famous for its delicacy.
Analytic data: alcohol 12% vol., acidity 6,7-7,5‰ ca
Gastronomic suggestions: ideal for fish starters,
white meat, delicate recipies.
Service: 10° in Murano glasses
Refinement: in stainless steel casks and in bottles.
Average quality rise: 2 years
For details: +39.335.5622535
Solaris, leader in optics field: a selection of
the best brand of sun-glasses with more
than 1000 models and 70 different marks.
Wide and colorful collection of venetian masks.
ATELIER MAREGA
MICROMEGA OTTICA
F.ta dell’Osmarin - Castello, 4968
map: G5 - ph. +39.041.5223036
San Marco, 2436
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.2960765
BLUE MOON
OTTICA URBANI
Dorsoduro, 2312
map: F4 - ph. +39.041.715175
S. Marco, 1280
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5224140
HOME WARE
LINGERIE
LA PERLA
S. Salvador - S. Marco, 4828
map: G5 - ph. +39.041.5226459
JADE MARTINE
Frezzeria - San Marco, 1645
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5212892
HANDICRAFTS
VENETIA STUDIUM
Calle XXII Marzo - S. Marco, 2403
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5236953
FRETTE
Calle XXII Marzo - S. Marco, 2070/A
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5224914
San Marco, 3877
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5236110
Exclusively designed jewels, handcrafted with an array of
precious gems, exotic and unique Ganesha an unforgettable
experience!
CHILDREN’S SHOPS
Come and visit us at RIALTO heart of the Venetian Venice...
RUBELLI
DISNEY STORE
C.po S.Bartolomeo - S. Marco, 5267
map: F4 - ph. +39.041.5223366
MAMMOLO
San Marco, 4461
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5226328
FOOT WEAR
CALZATURIFICIO MAGLI
Calle XXII Marzo - S. Marco, 2288
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5208280
F.LLI ROSSETTI
Calle Larga Mazzini - S. Marco, 4800
map: F4 - ph. +39.041.5230571
Thruogh an alert resilience, here is an
extraordinary collection comes from
the artistic partimony left by Fortuny.
GALLERIA CRISTALLO
Calle dei Fabbri - San Marco, 1037
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5211237
www.galleriacristallo.com
FOOT LOCKER
Mercerie - San Marco, 4944
map: F4 - ph. +39.041.5220803
TRAGICOMICA MASKS & COSTUMES
PASTIFICIO GIACOMO RIZZO
Calle XXII Marzo - S. Marco, 2251
map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5206603
GOURMET FOOD
Cannaregio, 5778
map: F4 - ph. +39.041.5222824
LA BOTTEGA DEI MASCARERI
WINE SHOPS
San Polo, 80
map: E4 - ph. +39.041.5223857
MILLEVINI
Cannaregio, 2223
map: E3 - ph. +39.041.716084
Ruga Rialto near
Rialto bridge
S. Polo 1060/1061
30125 Venezia
tel/fax:
+39.041.5208989
Mercerie - San Marco, 186
map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5237480
TOD'S CALZATURE
IL MERCANTE DI VENEZIA
OFFERING YOU INNOVATIVE AND COLOURFUL
WOMENS WEAR; HAND
MADE JEWELLERY, SCARVES, BAGS AND MANY
ONE-OFF PIECES
POLLINI
The precision of the ultimate laser technique generates with microscopic image
dots an artistic 3D object of fascinating
beauty into hand polished glass of the
highest purity. Highest quality guaranteed.
Calle dei Nomboli - S. Polo, 2800
map: D4 - ph. +39.041.721102
www.tragicomica.it
A trip into
a colourful
world
map: F4 - S. Marco, 5362
ph. +39.041.5206090 - Closed Sundays
Wide selection of Italian and French
wines right in the heart of the city.
SHOPPING guide
L’ombra di Venezia
EYEWEAR
Lamps, ethnic necklaces, Venetian mirrors,
candles, etc.
HIBISCUS
The “shade” of Venice
exclusive of

Dining guide
Restaurants
Bacari
Pizzerie
Pastry-shops
& the City Listing
DINING
CITY LISTING
Traditional Cuisine
International Cuisine
Bacari & Hostarie
Pizzerie
Coffee & Pastries
Cucina Tradizionale
Cucina Internazionale
Bacari & Hostarie
Pizzerie
Caffé & Pasticcerie
TRADITIONAL CUISINE
AL GRASPO DE UA
map: F4 - S. Marco, 5094
ph. +39.041.5200150 - Closed Mondays
A LA VECIA CAVANA
map: F3 - Rio Terà SS.Apostoli, 4264
ph. +39.041.5287106 - Closed Mondays
MURO RESTAURANT & BAR - San Polo, 222
Ancient and modern, traditions and avant-gardes. Finding oneself in Venice, not far from the Rialto Market, in the most popular and populous area of the ancient city, and sipping some good wine in an atmosphere that goes far beyond the metropolitan ‘lounge’. For those who stop
by only for a “chicheto” – a typical appetizer – and “spritz” – aperitif – before dinner as well as for those who are used to having lunch in a
comfortable and informal environment enjoying good food at a reasonable price. “Il Muro” is also, and above all, a first-class restaurant. The
chef’s task is to combine Venetian tradition with a menu that changes weekly by using fresh and selected products chosen in the Market stalls
according to what the current season offers. Appealing the idea of offering to all couples dining there aperitif, water and service charge. Alberto,
Enrico and Giacomo, the three enthusiast managers, have gained a fine clientele. Home maid desserts and excellent choice of wines.
Ristorante
Brand new management in an historical restaurant located five minutes walk
from Rialto bridge. Guests will sample a
classy venetian and typical cuisine.
Amazing wine and spirits list.
LA COLOMBA
map: F5 - S. Marco, 1665
ph. +39.041.5221175 - Open daily
A list, edited by the VM staff, of suggestions for gourmets: a careful selection
of original and best appreciated
restaurants, bacari, pizzerias and wine
bars in town. Each listing gives useful
information for an appropriate choice.
La guida per i buongustai: una accurata selezione, proposta dalla redazione di VM, dei più originali e apprezzati
ristoranti, bacari, pizzerie ed enoteche
dell’isola. Ogni scheda è corredata
dalle informazioni utili a una scelta
azzeccata.
always considering the use of raw materials and the refinement of the ingredients in season.
DO' FORNI
map: F5 - S. Marco, 457
ph. +39.041.5232148 - Open daily
Extraordinary Seafood Dishes
Traditional & Venetian Cuisine
Catering Service
Rio Ter SS. Apostoli, 4624 - ph. +39.041.5287106 - fax +39.041.5238644
www.veciacavana.it - [email protected]
Do Forni restaurant is located in the
historical heart of Venice. It features
traditional Venetian cuisine: different
kinds of fish, mussels and shellfish
from the Adriatic Sea.
RISTORANTE CANOVA
C/O LUNA HOTEL BAGLIONI
map: F5 - San Marco, 1243
ph. +39.041.5289840
The award winning “Canova Restaurant” is inviting you to experience its
exquisite cuisine in a most sumptuous
surrounding and impeccable service
Dinning at the Canova sets the mood
for an unforgettable evening rich of
pleasure and romance.
BACARO LOUNGE BAR
map: F5 - S.Marco, 1345
ph. +39.041.2960687 - Open daily

Antico e moderno, tradizioni e avanguardie. Trovarsi a Venezia, a pochi passi dal cicaleccio del Mercato di Rialto, nella zona più
popolana e popolosa della vecchia città, e sorseggiare un buon vino in un’atmosfera che supera il lounge metropolitano. Per chi si
ferma solo per un “chicheto” e spritz pre-cena; per chi pranza in un ambiente confortevole e informale mangiando bene e spendendo il giusto. Il Muro è anche, e soprattutto, un ottimo ristorante. E’ compito dello chef coniugare la tradizione Veneziana con
un menu che cambia settimanalmente usando prodotti freschi e selezionati comprati seguendo le stagioni proprio a pochi passi, fra
i banchi del Mercato del pesce. Accattivante l’idea di offrire ad ogni coppia che cenerà aperitivo, acqua e il servizio. Alberto, Enrico
e Giacomo, i tre entusiasti manager, hanno raccolto una clientela selezionata. I dessert sono preparati in casa, buona la cantina.
RISTORANTE AL BRINDISI
map: D2 - Cannaregio, 307
ph. +39.041.716968 - Open daily
DE PISIS
map: F5 - S. Marco, 1459
ph. +39.041.5207022 - Open daily
Our Gourmet Restaurant De Pisis,
recently rated as the best in Venice, has
become a world-renowned destination
for Venetians as well as for visitors. In an
intimate and elegant setting Chef
Giovanni Ciresa offers an original cuisine based on international cooking enriched by local Mediterranean traditions,
Traditional Venetian cuisine right in the
historical centre of the city, facing the
DINING guide
DINING guide
An “artistic” meeting place for over
fifty years, home of the prize for painting in post-war Italy in 1946.The refined and stimulating artistic and cultural company of the restaurant is on
the same level as its gastronomic art,
with the dual proposal of exquisitely
local cuisine and international class.
Brand-new Club fit with modern and
graceful touch design! It offers a wide
selection of cocktails, international cuisine dishes and typical venetian dishes.

Il Branzino
di Andrea Heinrich
la preda meravigliosa
T
he major ambition for all Venetian fishers, amateurs
and experts, has always been the catch of a fine seabass exemplar. The reasons underlying this hope are
various: starting from the high commercial value of this fish
– exception made for the “valley” species – whose exquisite
flesh is characterized by its high density, whiteness and
savour. Being the sea-bass available all year round, at dusk,
fishers equipped with fishing lines can be seen from the
Venice lagoon to the Lido seashores awaiting in meditative
silence the marvellous prey. As for all high value species, the
past thirty years have seen an increase in the number of seabass valley farms. There are two types of farms: “on the
ground” using large containment fish-ponds and “in the sea”
with large delimitation cages. The best method is the latter
one since the fish lives as if it were in its natural habitat.
The farm sea-bass differs from the wild one in the colour:
darker on the back and brighter on the sides. No need to
mention the complete difference in the taste and density of
the exemplars caught in their natural habitat. Certain
Venetian restaurants, in constant contact with expert fishers, do still offer the latter type of sea-bass.
THE RECIPE
SEA-BASS FILLET WITH PORCINI
MUSHROOMS AND REDCURRANT
DINING guide
Ingredients
2 whole large sea-basses (500g. each)
200g. fresh porcini mushrooms
100g. redcurrant, 1 clove of garlic
1 knob of butter, extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 glass of dry white wine
parsley, flour, salt and pepper

Clean the mushrooms, slice them and fry
them in a pan with oil, chopped garlic,
salt and pepper. When it is cooked add
the parsley. Clean and scale the sea-basses, flour them and place them in a hot
pan with butter and a tablespoon of olive
oil. Brown them on both sides. Add the
wine, mushrooms and the crumbled redcurrant. Cook for a few minutes.
Serenissimi Sapori
CANOVA
L’
ambizione massima di ciascun pescatore veneziano,
dilettante o professionista che sia, è da sempre la cattura di un bell’esemplare di branzino. Varie sono le
motivazioni che nutrono la speranza, a partire dal gran valore commerciale di questo pesce (eccezion fatta per quelli “di
valle”) che ha carni tanto delicate quanto caratterizzate da
densità, bianchezza e sapore. La sua reperibilità nell’arco di
tutto l’anno fa si che ogni giorno, all’imbrunire, dalla laguna
di Venezia ai litorali del Lido incappiamo in gruppi di pescatori che armati di più lenze, attendono in meditativo silenzio
la “mangiata” del branzino. Come per ogni altra specie ittica
di pregio, negli ultimi trent’anni anche per il branzino ha
preso largo piede l’allevamento in valle: due sono i tipi di
allevamento, “a terra” con l’utilizzo di grandi vasche di contenimento ed “in mare” con l’utilizzo di grandi gabbie per la
delimitazione. Quest'ultimo è sicuramente il sistema migliore
poiché il pesce vive e si nutre come nell'habitat naturale; il
branzino d'allevamento si differenzia da quello selvatico per
il colore: più scuro sul dorso e nettamente più chiaro sui fianchi. Inutile sottolineare l’abissale distanza per gusto e consistenza delle carni degli esemplari pescati allo stato naturale.
Qualche ristoratore veneziano è tuttora in grado di offrire
branzino di quest’ultimo tipo, mantenendo settimanalmente
contatti con pescatori professionisti.
"Scopriteci per i vostri business lunch...
ritornerete con i vostri amici"
Il Ristorante Canova, premiato dal Gambero
rosso, intimo ed elegante, offre una raffinata
cucina. Grazie all’estro dello chef Cosimo
Giampaolo, abbina i migliori piatti della tradizione veneta a portate nazionali. Contesto adatto per meeting, colazioni di lavoro e occasioni
importanti, è al tempo stesso il punto di ritrovo
ideale per cenare tra amici o per una romantica
serata a lume di candela.
CANOVA
San Marco, 1243 - Bocca di Piazza
ph. +39.041.5289840 - fax +39.041.5287160
[email protected]
Cannaregio, 3217
ph. +39.041.5244029
fax +39.041.2757952
www.residenzacannaregio.it
LA RICETTA
FILETTO DI BRANZINO
CON PORCINI E RIBES
Ingredienti
2 branzini grossi interi (500g. ciascuno)
200 g. porcini freschi, 100g. ribes rosso
1 spicchio di aglio, 1 noce di burro
olio extravergine di oliva
1/2 bicchiere di vino bianco secco
prezzemolo, farina, sale e pepe
Pulire i porcini, affettarli e cuocerli in una
padella con l’olio, l’aglio tritato, sale e pepe.
Verso fine cottura aggiungere il prezzemolo.
Pulire e squamare i branzini, infarinarli e
porli in una padella calda con il burro e un
cucchiaio di olio. Rosolarli da ambo le parti.
Bagnare con il vino e aggiungere i porcini e
il ribes sgranato. Cuocere per alcuni minuti.
IN A NEW CONCEPT DESIGN RESTAURANT, OUR CHEF IVANO BARDELLA
WILL BE PLEASED TO SUGGEST YOU THE
TYPICAL VENETIAN CUISINE PRODUCTS.
NEL RISTORANTE DAL DESIGN DI
NUOVA CONCEZIONE LO CHEF IVANO
BARDELLA SARÀ LIETO DI PROPORVI I
PIATTI TIPICI DELLA CUCINA LAGUNARE.
DINING guide
the marvellous prey
RESTAURANT

AGLI
ALBORETTI
CARPACCIO
map: G5 - Castello, 4088/4089
ph. +39.041.5289615 - Open daily
FIASCHETTERIA TOSCANA
map: F4 - Cannaregio, 5719
ph. +39.041.5285281
Closed Mondays and Tuesday noons
TRATTORIA DA LELE
map: L2 - C.po S.Stefano, 3 - Murano
ph. +39.041.739662 - Open daily
Restaurant
Dorsoduro - Accademia, 884
ph. +39.041.5230058
closed on wednesdays
ÉÇx Å|Çâàx yÜÉÅ à{x TvvtwxÅ|t uÜ|wzx
Hosteria
Galileo
cucina tipica
veneziana
S.Marco, 3593
Campo S. Angelo
Tel. 041.5206393
Closing day:
Tuesday
Booking request
LA CARAVELLA
map: E5 - Via XXII Marzo, 2398
ph. +39.041.5208901 - Open daily
RISTORANTE RIVIERA
map: C6 - Dorsoduro, 1473
ph. +39.041.5227621 - Closed Mondays
In the early 60’s used to be the Peggy
Guggenheim’s favourite restaurant.
Ten years ago Mrs. Anna Linguerri
decided to bring this place back to life.
Today the awarded chef Pierluigi
Lovisa prepares traditional and innovative dishes combining colours and flavours to please the eye and the taste.
LE BISTROT DE VENISE
U
R
O
Dorsoduro 780-782, Zattere - Venezia
Ph. +39.041.2413889 - +39.041.5206466
Fax +39.041.5227045
[email protected] - www.lacalcina.com
map: C3 - Cannaregio, 227
ph. +39.041.2206517 - Open daily
IL REFOLO
map: C4 - S. Croce, 1459
ph. +39.041.5240016 - Open daily
DEVIL’S FOREST PUB
map: F4 - S.Marco, 5185
ph. +39.041.5200623 - Open daily
A traditional
Venetian
cuisine in the
historical
centre of the
city. A short
stroll away from
the railway
station.
map: E2 - Cannaregio, 2515
ph. +39.041.713561 - Closed Mondays
Syrian and Egyptian
SAHARA
BACARI & HOSTARIE
map: D6 - Dorsoduro, 780-782
ph. +39.041.2413889 - Closed Mondays
ph. +39.041.5236583 - Open daily
Mexican
IGUANA
LA PISCINA
HOSTARIA GALILEO
map: E5 - C.po S.Angelo 3593
ph. +39.041.5206393 - Closed Tuesdays
English style pub located 1 min. walk
from Rialto bridge. Hosts will sample
the plain Guinnes draught line. Food
served for breakfast and lunch,
snacks available until late night.
Backgammon, sky sport tv live and
videomusic are also good reasons to
pop in…
map: E5 - San Marco, 2398
ph. +39.041.2401425 - Closed Mondays
CAFÉS
Design restaurant with Depero original painting. Modern cuisine with
some Venetian dishes. Carefully
selected Italian wines.
CAFFÈ FLORIAN
LOCAL CUISINE
ANTICHE CARAMPANE
Magic place with magnificent view
over the Giudecca canal. Tea room
with home made buiscuits and
cakes. Freshly prepared snacks,
sandwiches, salads and fruit
options. This intimate restaurant
offers simple and traditional mediterranean cuisine.
AL COLOMBO
map: F4 - San Marco, 4619
ph. +39.041.5222627 - Open daily
AL GATTO NERO
Warm and intimate “trattoria”, the
enticing menu is based on classic cuisine blend to create a truly memorable dining experience. The restaurant’s gracious outdoor terrace provides
the opportunity to dine under the
stars when weather permits.
ETHNIC CUISINE
map: E4 - C.lle dei Botteri - S.Polo,1544
ph. +39.380.4108446 - Closed Tuesdays
NEMESIS WINE BAR
map: D4 - San Polo, 2565
ph. +39.041.5238891 - Open daily
map: F5 - Piazza San Marco, 133
ph. +39.041.5224070 - Open daily
CAFFÈ LA PISCINA
map: D6 - Dorsoduro, 780-782
ph. +39.041.2413889 - Closed Mondays
Magic place with magnificent view
over the Giudecca canal. Tea room
with home made buiscuits and cakes.
This intimate restaurant offers simple
and traditional Mediterranean cuisine.
LA CAFFETTERIA CAFFÈ DEL DOGE
map: E4 - C.lle dei Cinque-S.Polo, 608
ph. +39.041.5227787 - Open daily
map: E3 - San Polo, 1659
ph. +39.041.721673 - Open daily
LA COLOMBINA
MURO RESTAURANT & BAR
map: D4 - San Polo 2558
ph. +39.041.720050 - Closed Tue. evenings
Outdoors, at this intimate and elegant locale, customers enjoy a view
towards the horizon and the wide
terraces of the Giudecca Canal.
Locale intimo e raffinato, all’esterno i clienti possono godersi il tramonto nell’ampia terrazza sul Canale
della Giudecca.
Dorsoduro, 1473 Zattere - Tel. 041.5227621
Newly opened wine-bar opposite the
Frari church. Original proposes by
hosts Christian and Ivan.
map: F4 - Castello, 5409
ph: +39.041.5286252 - Open daily
Located between the fish and the vegetable market. Exclusively fresh ingredients for a quality cuisine: only home
made pasta & desserts. Venetian and
OSTERIA PANE VINO
Chinese
IL GIARDINO DI GIADA
Arabian
FRARY'S
map: E4 - S. Polo, 222
ph .+39.041.5237495 - Closed Sundays
map: D4 - San Polo, 2741/a
ph. +39.041.5237238 - Open daily
Cannaregio, 307 Campo San Geremia - 30121 Venezia
tel. 041.716968 fax 041.795585 www.albrindisi.it [email protected]
GRAN CAFFÈ LAVENA
ALLE TESTIERE
map: C6 - Dorsoduro, 1414
ph. +39.041.5206601 - Closed Tuesdays
AL MONDO NOVO
OSTERIA LA PATATINA
map: F5 - Piazza San Marco, 120
ph. +39.041.5200041 - Open daily
map: E6 - Dorsoduro, 366
ph. +39.041.5286396 - Closed Tuesdays
AQUARAMA REST & COFFEE LOUNGE
map: F4 - S. Marco, 5338
ph .+39.041.5289078 - Open daily
CAFFÈ QUADRI
At the Galileo our chefs offer you
traditional Veneto Italian cooking
accompanied by a fine selection of
Italian wines. Charming is the stallage right in Campo S.Angelo.
AI GONDOLIERI
map: F4 - Castello, 5801
ph. +39.041.5227220
Closed Sundays and Mondays
RISTORANTE AL BUSO
La tradizione
della buona
cucina nel
cuore della
città storica.
A 5 minuti
dalla stazione
ferroviaria.
map: F5 - Piazza San Marco, 56
ph. +39.041.5205641 - Open daily
Burano, Fond.ta Giudecca 88
ph. +39.041.730120 - Closed Mondays
Closed Mondays
Japanese
MIRAI
LA RIVISTA
9am - 1am
Not simply a bar... not an overly - formal restaurant...
map: D4 - San Polo, 2426
ph. +39.041.719804 - Closed Wednesdays
map: E2 - Cannaregio 2519
ph. +39.041.721077 - Open daily
www.residenzacannaregio.it
map: D1 - Cannaregio, 3217
ph. +39.041.5244029 - Open daily
Vino e
cucina
UtÜ Vtyy¢
exáàtâÜtÇà
Indian
SHRI GANESH
map: F5 - S.Marco, 4685
ph. +39.041.5236651 - Open daily
map: E2 - Cannaregio, 2103
ph. +39.041.721199 - Open daily
_t c|áv|Çt
DINING guide
map: D6 - Dorsoduro, 882
ph. +39.041.5230058
DA POGGI
MURO
Restaurant & Bar
Venezia
Rialto S. Polo 222
ph. +39.041.5237495

RISTORANTE AGLI ALBORETTI
AL PIRON
map: D4 - Rio terà Carampane 1911
ph. +39.041.5240165
Closed on Sun. afternoon and Mon.
M
Italian recipes featuring fish or meat.
More than 50 labels of Italian wines.
Water and service charge off your bill.
map: D2 - Cannaregio, 1828
ph. +39.041.2750622 - Open daily
OSTERIA AL PANTALON
map: D5 - Dorsoduro, 3958
ph. +39.041.710849 - Open daily
Kosher
GAM GAM
PIZZERIE & PUB
map: D2 - Cannaregio, 1122
ph. +39.041.715284
Closed Friday evenings and Saturdays
BORA BORA
map: F4 - S.Marco, 5251
International selection of 100% Arabic coffees. On site pastry shop, sweet and savory
treats. Coffee based gelato and pastries,
“Oriental” mineral waters and boutique.
PASTRY & ICE SHOPS
PASTICCERIA DAL MAS
map: C3 - Lista di Spagna, 150/a
ph. +39.041.715101 - Closed Tuesdays
GELATERIA PAOLIN
map: E5 - S.Marco, 2962
ph. +39.041.5225576 - Open daily
DINING guide
lovely campo S.Geremia. Easy reachable
in five minutes walk from the station.

SERVICE
&UTILITIES guide
INTERNET point
www.venetiannavigator.com
ALL COMPUTER SERVICES:
e-m@il service, colour & laserprints, laptop connection, download from any
digital camera, sell CD & Floppy, etc.
INTERNATIONAL CALLING:
Collect calls, Credit Card calling &
International phone cards.
SERVICE CITY LISTING
VENETIAN N@VIGATOR
VENETIAN NAVIGATOR
map: F4 - Castello, 5300
ph. +39.041.2771056
VENICE INTERNET POINT
ristorante
LA COLOMBA
Da oltre settant'anni
ritrovo e cenacolo
di artisti, sede del primo
premio di pittura dell'Italia
del dopoguerra nel 1946,
le sale di questo ristorante
hanno ospitato i pittori
protagonisti del rilancio
dell'arte italiana ed europea.
Oggi continua la tradizione...
For over 70 years
it has been a meeting place
and a artistic coterie,
including in its membership
the best italian painters
since 1946.
The "Colomba" has encouraged
the protagonists of the rebirth
of italian and european art.
Today continues the tradition...
San Marco 1665 - Piscina di Frezzeria - Tel. 041 5221175 - Fax 041 5221468
ARENA TOURIST
ph. +39.045.7210277
www.heirateninitalien.com
map: C3 - Cannaregio, 149
ph. +39.041.2758217
MAINTENANCE
& SERVICING
CURRENCY EXCHANGE
AIGGE
TRAVELEX
map: F4 - S. Marco, 5126
ph. +39.041.5287358
LIMOUSINE SERVICE
BELT LIMOUSINE SYSTEM
Via Trento, 66 - Mestre
ph. +39.041.926303
INTERNATIONAL LIMOUSINE SERVICE
map: B4 - P.le Roma, 468/b
ph. +39.041.5206565
RENT A CAR
HERTZ
map: B4 - P.le Roma, 496/e
ph. +39.041.5284091
Aeroporto M. Polo
ph. +39.041.5416075
ph.Reservations 848-867067
TOURS
CONSORZIO BATTELLIERI
map: C2 - Cannaregio, 3068
ph. +39.348.0339974
Any kind of maintenance for private properties, shops or hotels. 24 hours service flying
squad. Special rates for yearly contracts.
HAIR & BEAUTY
CENTRO BENESSERE DA TIZIANA
map: D5 - S.Tomà, calle del Traghetto
ph. +39.041.5241845 Opening: 9 am - 10 pm
TAXI
CONSORZIO MOTOSCAFI
map: E4 - S. Marco, 4179
ph. +39.041.5222303
TAXI - AUTO PUBBLICHE
map: B4 - P.le Roma, Venezia
ph. +39.041.5237774
REAL ESTATE AGENCIES
map: B4 - P.le Roma, 496
ph. 199.199.345
Opening: 8.30 am - 6 pm
VENICE REAL ESTATE
map: F5- S. Marco, 1130
ph. +39.041.5210622
RENT APARTMENTS
VENICE APARTMENT
Cannaregio, 149
Tel. +39.041.2758217
Fax +39.041.716185
[email protected]
www.ve-nice.com
map: D4 - S. Polo, calle dei Saoneri 2719
ph. +39.041.716765
Opening: 9.30 am - 6.30 pm
EXPRESS COURIERS
map: D3 - Cannaregio, 1632/a
ph. +39.041.5244394
www.veniceagency.com
Just 2 minutes walk
from the train station
HAIR TECNART SALVO
Apt - Padova
ph. +39.049.8766860
VENICE AGENCY
30122 VENEZIA - Castello 5300 - Casselleria - Tel. e Fax 0412771056
DHL
GONDOLA
BACINO ORSEOLO
map: F5 - San Marco
ph. +39.041.5289316
CONSORZIO GONDOLIERI
map: F5 - San Marco
ph. +39.041.5228637
map: D3 - Cannaregio, 1632/a
ph. +39.041.5244394
www.veniceapartment.com
S. MARIA DEL GIGLIO
TRAVELS AGENCIES
CAR PARKING
AMERICAN EXPRESS
GARAGE SAN MARCO
map: E6 - San Marco
ph. +39.041.5222073
map: F5 - San Marco, 1471
ph. +39.041.5200844
map: B4 - Dorsoduro
ph. +39.041.5232213
KELE & TEO
TRONCHETTO CAR PARK
map: F5 - S. Marco, 4930
ph. +39.041.5208722
map: A3 - Isola del Tronchetto
ph. +39.041.2727301
SERVICE guide
INTERNET POINTS
Corso del popolo, 90 - Mestre
ph. +39.041.5312500
OPEN NON STOP
from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Cortina
d'Ampezzo
BELLUNO
Feltre
Vittorio
Veneto
Asiago
feb 05 - mar 05
Conegliano
Bassano
Asolo
del Grappa
Montello
Oderzo
Lago di
Garda
Marostica
Castelfranco
TREVISO Caorle
Jesolo
Mestre
Mainland
VICENZA
VERONA
Soave
Abano
Terme
Events and OUTDOOR
Curiosity
PADOVA
VENEZIA
DA TINTORETTO A BISON
Chioggia
ROVIGO
Civici Musei agli Eremitani, Padova - From 20 February to 25 April
The “Musei Civici of Padua” unveil another of their secrets: the outstanding – and almost unknown – collection of over thirty thousand ancient drawings formed thanks to centuries of acquisitions. A variety of
drawings of completely different origin and quality, the most ancient of which date back to the
Renaissance while the most recent ones to the 21st century. In five years work, all pieces have been
inventoried, photographed and, where necessary, restored. They have then been entrusted to a group
of experts who had the task of recognizing and confirming the origin and authorship of each work. The
works will be displayed to the public from February 20th.
guide
and the city listing
PADOVA
Mestre
Riviera del Brenta
Jesolo
Treviso
Cortina
Asolo...
FROM VENICE
by car: 27 km.
by train: 35 min.
by bus: 70 min.
To see:
Sant’Antonio church
Prato della Valle
Cappella degli Scrovegni
I Musei Civici di Padova svelano un altro dei loro tesori: l’importante (e praticamente sconosciuta) collezione di disegni antichi. In secoli di acquisizioni si è formata una raccolta di circa tremila fogli. Disegni
dalla più diversa provenienza e qualità, i più antichi risalenti al Rinascimento, i più recenti al secolo appena concluso. In 5 anni di lavoro, tutti i pezzi sono stati reinventariati, fotografati e, quando necessario,
restaurati. Quindi sono stati affidati ad un gruppo di specialisti incaricati di riconoscere o confermare
ambito e, se possibile, paternità di ciascuna opera. Dal 20 febbraio sono offerti al pubblico.
ANDREA PALLADIO AND THE VENETIAN VILLA
Palazzo Barbaran da Porto, Vicenza - From 5 March to 3 July

The extraordinary exponent of the Belle Époque and of its
brilliant protagonists. Giovanni Boldini started off in the
experimental environment of the “Macchiaioli” and soon
confronted the international scene following his own route
characterized by an entirely personal way of painting, still
susceptible to the new and at the same time deeply rooted
in the tradition of Italian and European art, from Velazquez
to Tiepolo. On display the selection of one hundred and
twenty works, chosen among Boldini’s large collection,
coming from major museums - like the Rome “Galleria
Nazionale d’Arte Moderna”, the Naples “Capodimonte”,
the Paris “Musée d’Orsay”, the New York “Metropolitan
Museum” and “Philadelphia Museum” - and from private
European and American collections.
Il magnifico interprete della Belle Epoque e dei suoi brillanti protagonisti. Giovanni Boldini, partendo dall’ambiente sperimentale dei macchiaioli, si è presto confrontato con la ribalta internazionale seguendo un suo percorso attraverso un modo del tutto personale di dipingere, ancora sensibile al nuovo ma altrettanto radicato
nella tradizione dell’arte italiana ed europea, tra
Velazquez e Tiepolo. Della enorme produzione pittorica
di Boldini sono state selezionate circa centoventi opere,
provenienti dai maggiori musei (la Galleria Nazionale
d’Arte Moderna di Roma, Capodimonte a Napoli, il Musée
d’Orsay di Parigi, il Metropolitan Museum di New York, il
Philadelphia Museum) e collezioni private europee e
americane.
FROM VENICE
by car: 55 km.
by train: 60 min.
by bus: 100 min.
TO SEE:
Piazza dei Signori, Palazzo Chiericati,
Loggia del Capitaniato, Parco Querini.
CAMILLE PISSARRO - ENGRAVED IMPRESSIONS
Brolo Centro d’Arte e Cultura, Mogliano Veneto (TV) - Until 8 May
FROM VENICE
by car: 18 km.
by train: 20 min.
by bus: 35 min.
To see (Treviso):
Battistero di San Giovanni
Palazzo dei Trecento
Museo civico L.Bailo
The exhibition, homage to the engraving works by Camille Pissarro, one of the founding fathers of
Impressionism, is the first major appointment of the “Centro d’Arte e Cultura Brolo” of Mogliano – Centre
of Art and Culture – scheduled for 2005. It gathers ninety among the most significant works of the artist’s
graphic production recognized as masterpieces of Impressionist graphics. Six borrowed master copies
elaborated by the artist, exhibited for the first time ever in Italy, deserve particular attention. The show is
organized with the support of National Library of France, the Pissarro Museum of Pontoise and of the
Pissarro family.
La mostra dedicata all'opera incisoria di Camille Pissarro, uno dei padri fondatori del movimento impressionista, è il primo grande appuntamento del Centro d’Arte e Cultura Brolo di Mogliano in calendario nel
2005. Una rassegna che riunisce oltre 90 opere tra le più rappresentative dell'esecuzione grafica dell’artista riconosciute capolavori della grafica impressionista. Particolare segnalazione meritano i prestiti delle
6 matrici lavorate dall’artista, per la prima volta esposte in Italia. E’ organizzata con il sostegno della
Biblioteca Nazionale di Francia, del Museo Pissarro di Pontoise e della famiglia Pissarro.
MAINLAND guide
MAINLAND guide
15 January - 29 May
9.30am - 7.30pm
Closed on Mondays
Ticket euro 10.00
Un viaggio affascinante attraverso 300 opere provenienti da oltre cinquanta musei internazionali, tra cui dipinti di Veronese, Tiziano, Tiepolo, Guercino, Jacopo Bassano, i disegni di
Raffaello, Giulio Romano, Peruzzi, Canaletto, Tiepolo e Palladio, e un itinerario che tocca le più
belle fra le quasi 5 mila ville disseminate tra Veneto e Friuli. Sarà l’occasione di andare oltre l’ovvio accostamento tra Palladio e la Villa Veneta, scoprendo quanto poco in realtà si sappia di
quei sei secoli durante i quali le Ville Venete divennero centro di un mondo artistico, culturale
ed economico che ha ben pochi paragoni.
VICENZA
PADOVA
Via San Francesco, 27
Info: +39.049.8753100
www.palazzozabarella.it
MOGLIANO
Palazzo Zabarella, Padova. Until 29 May 2005
PALAZZO ZABARELLA
BOLDINI.
A fascinating journey through three-hundred works, coming from over fifty international
museums, including paintings by artist like Veronese, Tiziano, Tiepolo, Guercino, Jacopo Bassano
and drawings by Raffaello, Giulio Romano, Peruzzi, Canaletto, Tiepolo and Palladio. An itinerary
that has selected the most beautiful villas among the over five thousand scattered in the Veneto
and Friuli regions. It will be the opportunity to go beyond the usual juxtaposition of Palladio and
the Venetian Villa and to discover much more about the six centuries during which the Venetian
Villas became centres of an unparalleled artistic, cultural and economic world.

MAINLAND
Venetian Tales
CITY LISTING
LEGGENDE VENEZIANE
di Alberto Toso Fei
RESTAURANT-WINE BAR
THE POWER OF THE ARSENAL

Alberto Toso Fei,
from Murano,
was born in
Venice in 1966.
Traveller and journalist, he comes
from one of the
oldest glass blowing families on
the island. A passionate researcher of history and local custums, he
has activated an internet site
(www.venetianlegends.it) where one
can contribute to the discovery and
circulation of hidden or unknown
legends. “Venetian legends and
ghost stories” (translated in English
and French) and “Veneziaenigma”
(available only in the original Italian
version) can be found in libraries.
Alberto Toso Fei,
muranese, è nato a Venezia nel
1966. Viaggiatore e giornalista, discende da una
delle antiche famiglie di vetrai
dell'isola. Appassionato studioso
di storia e costume locale, ha attivato un sito
internet (www.venetianlegends.it)
dove chiunque può contribuire
alla scoperta e diffusione di leggende nascoste. Leggende veneziane e storie di fantasmi (tradotto anche in inglese e francese) e
"Veneziaenigma" (presente attualmente nella sola edizione italiana)
sono i suoi due libri dati alle stampe.
HOSTERIA ALLA PERGOLA
Via Fiume, 42 - Mestre
ph. +39.041.974932 - Closed Sundays
Mestre
AL CASON
Via Gatta, 112 - ph. +39.041.907907
Closed Sunday evenings and Mondays
IL BURCHIELLO
Via Venezia, 40 - Oriago
ph. +39.041.472244
Closed Mondays and Tues. evening
Mira
ANNA & OTELLO
Piazza Vecchia, 36 - Mira
ph. +39.041.5675335
Mira
RISTORANTE MARGHERITA
Via Nazionale, 312 - Mira
ph. +39.041.420879
Mira
RISTORANTE POPPI
Via Romea, 80 - Mira
ph. +39.041.5675661 - Open daily
Riviera del Brenta
RISTORANTE DA GIORGIO
Piazza XXVII Ottobre, 40 - Mestre
ph. +39.041.953399 - Closed Mondays
www.panbiscotto.it
Mestre
LA VIVANDERIA
Via Pasqualigo, 59h - Mestre
ph. +39.041.610742 - Closed Thursdays
© Vito Vecellio
LA POTENZA DELL’ARSENALE
Dell’Arsenale di Venezia e delle sue incredibili capacità produttive non è il caso di dilungarsi in questa pagina: racconteremo però un aneddoto secondo cui gli arsenalotti, gli operai che
vi lavoravano, erano capaci di completare una nave da guerra
in una sola giornata di lavoro. A Enrico III di Francia bastò il
tempo di partecipare ad un ricevimento per vedere ultimata
una galera veneziana. Pare che la Serenissima volesse mandare
un implicito messaggio della sua potenza e rapida organizzazione in caso di attacco o necessità. A quanto si sa il messaggio
fu inteso. Per altri versi gli arsenalotti furono tenuti in così alta
considerazione che rimasero per anni le uniche persone tra i
non appartenenti al ceto nobiliare, cui era consentito di non
inginocchiarsi davanti al doge: erano considerati infatti la sua
guardia personale.
Qualcosa di questo doppio filo tra San Marco e l’Arsenale
dev’essere rimasto ancora oggi, visto che spetta ai Vigili del
Fuoco normalmente di stanza all’Arsenale l’onore di presiedere all’alza e ammaina bandiera in Piazza San Marco. Anche
sulla bandiera di Venezia, il Gonfalone, c’è qualcosa da dire:
oggi, oltre ad essere il simbolo unanimemente riconosciuto di
Venezia, è anche il vessillo del Veneto, Regione di cui la città è
capoluogo. Quando al momento della loro costituzione, negli
anni Settanta del secolo passato, le Regioni d’Italia dovettero
dotarsi di una bandiera da esporre, l’unica che poté farlo senza
dover adattare o inventare un simbolo che potesse rappresentarla fu proprio il Veneto. Che è dunque l’unica regione ad
avere una vera e propria bandiera.
Mestre
DANTE HOSTERIA
Via Dante, 53 - Mestre
ph. +39.041.959421 - Closed Sundays
Mestre
DIETRO LE QUINTE
P.tta C. Battisti, 9 - Mestre
ph. +39.041.985653 - Open daily
Dolo
RISTORANTE VILLA GOETZEN
Via Matteotti, 6 - Dolo
ph. +39.041.412600
Scorzè
OSTERIA RISTORANTE PERBACCO
Via Moglianese, 37 - Scorzè
ph. +39.041.5840991
Closed Saturday noons and Sundays
Mirano
SPECIALITA’ PESCE
LEON D’ORO
FINE SELECTION OF WINES
Via Canonici, 3 - Mirano
ph. +39.041.432777 - Open daily
Tangenziale
Quarto d’Altino
RISTORANTE L’INVITO
C/O HOTEL HOLIDAY INN
Viale della Resistenza, 18 - Quarto d’A.
ph. +39.0422.703822
MIRA
PD
S.S. 11 Riviera del Brenta
Naviglio Brenta
Municipio
Ristorante
ANNA & OTELLO
Treviso
TRATTORIA DA CELESTE
35 years experience in haute venetian cuisine
extraordinary choices of raw fish dishes
S.S. 309 Romea
PANBISCOTTO
Via Riviera del Brenta, 222 - Fiesso d’A.
ph. +39.041.5160204
Novissimo
Mestre
PIAZZA
VECCHIA
Chioggia
Ravenna
fresh ingredients and quality fish
Piazza Vecchia, 36 - Mira - Venezia
ph./fax +39.041.5675335
Chiuso il lunedì e il martedì a pranzo
Via A. Diaz, 12 - Venegazzù
ph. +39.0423.620445
closed: Mon. evening and Tuesday
JEWELLER’S SHOPS
Located by the city theatre, the restaurant offers Venetian cuisine, Veneto
and national delicatessen, selected
meat and quality Italian wines.
Particularly appreciated since the 80’s
by theatre companies. Open until 1 am.
Mestre
GIOIELLI LEONARDO
Via Piave, 119 - Mestre
ph. +39.041.935076
CLOTHING
Marcon
Mestre
P.zza IV Novembre - Marcon
ph. +39.041.5950068 - Closed Mondays
Via Poerio, 31 - Mestre
ph. +39.041.972553
LA OSTERIA
J. BYRON
Mira Porte
Mestre
Via Nazionale, 403 - Mira Porte
ph. +39.041.420114
P.zza Ferretto, 8 - Mestre
ph. +39.041.971308
VECIA BRENTA
Il ritrovo degli artisti
ad un passo dal Teatro Toniolo
BLACK WATCH
Piazzetta C. Battisti, 9 - Mestre - Ph. +39.041.985653
MAINLAND guide
VENETIAN Tales
The productive capacity of the Arsenal of Venice is well
known and it is not worth spending many words on it
here – nevertheless an anecdote can be mentioned, according to which the Arsenal workers were able to build up
a warship in just a day’s work. It took Henry III of France
the time of taking part to a banquet to see a Venetian
Galera (combat ship) being built up: the Serenissima was
apparently aiming at getting through a message on its ability of responding in the event of an attack. The message
was most probably acknowledged. The Arsenal workers’
reputation was so good that they were the only persons,
not belonging to the upper crust, who were allowed to
stand (not kneel down) when meeting the Doge: they
were considered a sort of personal guard of the Doge. This
privilege was somehow maintained down the centuries
and the Fire Brigade who is normally stationed at the
Arsenal, is bestowed with the honour of presiding over
the flag-raising and the flag-lowering ceremonies in St.
Mark’s Square. The flag of Venice, the so called
Gonfalone, has a peculiar history too: today it is not only
the symbol of the city but of the entire Veneto Region.
When in the 1870s Italian regions – that were formed in
that period – were to adopt a distinguishing flag, Veneto
was the only region that needn’t invent a symbol. The
Veneto region is therefore the only region who can boast a
flag in the true sense of the word.
Mestre
Riviera del Brenta

USEFUL
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Call center
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RADIOTAXI
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TOURIST INFORMATION
APT Tourist Board
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Hotels Association Lido
+39.041.5298711
+39.041.413995
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E
Hotels Association Mainland
Flight Info
Uff. Bagagli Aeroporto
+39.041.930133
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Airport
+39.041.5222303
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PORTERAGE
Piazzale Roma
Train Station
+39.041.5223590
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DRINKING & DRIVING - AUTOMOBILE SPEED LIMITS
Allowable alcohol quantity in blood while driving an automobile is 0,5 g/kg.
Highway: 130 km/h, Main Roads: 90 km/h,
Populated Areas: 50 km/h.
INTERNATIONAL CODE NUMBER
Australia
0061
Malta
Austria
0043
Messico
Belgio
0032
Monaco
Brasile
0055
Holland
Canada
001
Polonia
Danimarca
0045
Portogallo
Francia
0033
Rep. Ceca
Germania
0049
Romania
Giappone
0081
Spagna
Gran Bretagna 0044
Sudafrica
Grecia
0030
Svezia
Hong Kong
00852
Svizzera
Irlanda
00353
Ungheria
Lituania
00370
USA
TAX FREE SHOPPING
Foreigners are entitled to receive back the
value added tax that they paid if their purchases are above.
CREDIT CARDS
Credit card usage is widespread in Italy and
most stores and restaurants accept several
major credit cards.
F
G
H
I
CENTRALINO OPERATIVO 24h con sistema GPS
ph. +39.041.5222303
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0052
00377
0031
0048
00351
00420
0040
0034
0027
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0036
001
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FLY
GAMMA
KAPPA
LA RESCOSSA
LOCANDA AI VETERANI
LLOYD
MONDIAL
NUOVA MESTRE
PALLADIO
PARIS
PIAVE
PICCOLO
PRESIDENT
RESIDENZA DEI DOGI
ROBERTA
TITIAN INN
C3
D6
F4
F4
C4
E5
F5
D2
F5
D6
E5
C3
C3
F3
F3
C4
E5
D4
D6
E5
G5
F5
G5
F3
C3
D2
C3
F5
G5
E5
G5
C3
F4
E5
D3
E5
E2
E5
C4
F5
F4
IL MERCANTE DI VENEZIA
ISTITUTO CILIOTA
LA CALCINA
LA FENICE ET DES ARTISTES
LA FORCOLA
LA LOCANDA DI ORSARIA
LANTERNA DI MARCO POLO
LISBONA
LOCANDA AI SS. APOSTOLI
LOCANDA CA’ ZOSE
LOCANDA CASA QUERINI
LOCANDA CASA VERARDO
LOCANDA OVIDIUS
LOCANDA S.BARNABA
LOCANDA STURION
LUX
MALIBRAN
MARCONI
MONTECARLO
NAZIONALE
OLIMPIA
PAGANELLI
PALAZZO VITTURI
PANADA
PANTALON
PAUSANIA
RIALTO
SCANDINAVIA
S.CASSIANO CA'FAVARETTO
S.CHIARA
S.GALLO
S.MARCO
S.MOISE'
SPAGNA
S.SIMEON AI DO FANALI
S.STEFANO
S.ZULIAN
TINTORETTO
TORINO
TRE ARCHI
UNIVERSO & NORD
VIOLINO D'ORO
C3
E5
D6
E5
E2
C3
F4
E5
F3
E6
G5
G5
E4
D5
E4
G5
F4
E4
F5
C3
C4
G5
G4
F5
D5
C5
E4
G4
E3
C4
F5
F5
E5
C3
C3
E5
F5
E2
E5
C2
C3
E5
VENEZIA
VILLA DORI
VILLA DUCALE
VILLA FINI
VILLA GIULIETTA
VILLA GOETZEN
VIVIT
TREVISO
4 - stars HOTELS ****
ASOLO GOLF CLUB
BOLOGNESE VILLA PACE
CARLTON
CASTELBRANDO
CONTINENTAL
DUCA D’AOSTA
MAGGIOR CONSIGLIO
RELAIS MONACO
VILLA GIUSTINIAN
VILLA VICINI
3 - stars HOTELS ***
AL SOLE
CAMPIELLO
CRYSTAL
MAGNOLIA
SPECIAL THANKS
Ass.ne Veneziana Albergatori
Venice Hoteliers Associations
Azienda Veneziana Albergatori Lido
Lido Hoteliers Associations
Consorzio Alberghi del Territorio Veneto
Hoteliers Association of the Venetian Mailand
Associazione Chiese di Venezia
The Foundation for the Churches of Venice
Scarica

the city guide - Venice Magazine