Officia! Journal of International Society of Cosmetic Dermatology
INTEANATIONAL
EDIEMME
Volume 9 - Number 2
Aprii / June 1991
ISSN 0392-8543 Sped . abb. post. IV0 70
Per Campioni Medici e Documentazione Scientifica:
Mavì Sud s.r.l.. Viale dell'Industria, 1 - 04011 Aprilia (LT) Tel. (06) 9281235/617 · Fax (06) 9281523
DERMATOLOGIA COSMETOLOGICA
A cura di P. Morganti e L. Muscardin
Sezione IX Annessi cutanei e dermocosmesi
30 Ghiandole sudoripare e sebacee
Ed. International Ediemme
31 Doodoranli e antisudore
32 Struttura e proprietà dei capelli
Indice 1° Volume
33 Detersione, protezione e normalizzazione dei capelli e del cuoio
Sezione I Considerazioni Generali
35 Le unghie
capelluto
1 Cenni storici
2 La bellezza della figura umana
Sezione II Fisiologia e Biologia della cute
3
4
5
6
7
Sviluppo della pelle
La struttura della cute
Biochimica e Fisiologia dell'epidermide
Biologia del tessuto connettivo
Sistema Vascolare ed innervazione della cute
Sezione III La Cute come organo di assorbimento
8 Nozioni basilari sulla permeabilità e sull'assorbimento
9 Membrane e assorbimento
10 Metabolismo della cute e degli annessi cutanei
34 Cosmetici decorativi ad effetto duraturo
36 Prodotti decorativi ad effetto temporaneo superficiale
Indice 3° Volume
Sezione X Seborrea e dermocosmesi
37 Caratteristiche chimico--fisiche e funzioni fisiologiche del sebo
38 Produzione e modificazioni del sebo nel sano e nel seborroico
39 Influenza dei trattamenti cosmetologici sui lipidi di superfice del
viso e del capillizio
40 Attività ormonale e ghiandole sebacee
41 Il problema terapeutico dell'acne
42 Possibilità terapeutiche nella seborrea
Sezione XI Melanogenesi e dermocosmesi
Sezione IV Chimica e Chimico-Fisica dei preparati topici
li Materie prime e principi attivi di uso cosmetologico
12 Emulsioni ed emulsionanti
13 Tensioattivi di uso cosmetico
14 Gli antiossidanti e i fenomeni ossidativi dei grassi
15 Antimicrobici e preservanti cutanei
16 La profumazione dei cosmetici
43 Il sistema pigmentario
44 Filtri solari. pigmentanti diretti e depigmentanti
Sezione XII Mucose orali e dermocosmesi
45 La salute della bocca e dei denti
46 Profilassi ed igiene dei denti e della bocca
47 Preparazioni cosmetiche per la cavità orale
17 Chimica e tossicologia dei coloranti
18 Prodotti cosmetici in aerosol
Sezione XIII Prodotti speciali
48 Omeopatia e cosmetici
49 So!Uzioni per lenti a contatto
50 Cosmetici ipoallergcnici
51 Cosmesi su basi naturali
Indice 2° Volume
Sezione V Trattamenti dermocosmetici del viso e del corpo
19 Detersione, protezione e normalizzazione della pelle
20 La cosmesi per l'uomo
21 Cosmetici per bambini
22 Preparati per il bagno
23 Maschere e peeling
24 I Depilanti
Sezione VI La cute senile
Sezione XIV Trattamenti estetici correttivi
52 Interventi correttivi di chirurgia plastica
53 Laserterapia
54 Crioterapia
55 Principi di mesoterapia
56 Ionoforesi
57 Interventi correttivi di "camoumage"
Sezione XV Controlli dermotossicologici
25 Invecchiamento cutaneo
26 n trattamento della cute senile
Sezione VII Cosmetici e Psiche
27 Aspetti psicosomatici e somatopsichici in
dermatologia cosmetologica
Sezione VIII I danni cutanei
28 Patologia cutanea da cosmetici su base immunologica
29 Danni da cosmetici
58 Valutazione delle materie prime e dei cosmetici finiti
59 Controlli tossicologici delle materie prime e d el prodotto finito
GO Cosmetognosia. Funzionalità cd efficacia dei prodotti cosmetici
Sezione XVI Problemi normativi e cli Marketing
61 Nozioni di marketing e di pubblicità
62 Grafica pubblicitaria: implicazioni psicologiche
63 Normative di legge sui cosmetici nei vari paesi dcl mondo
64 La responsabilità civile dei trattamenti cosmetici
65 Giudizio medjco-legale del danno estetico
INFORMAZIONI PER L'ACQUISTO
Il pagamento di Lit. 120.000 (Centoventimila) per l'acquisto del 1° volume di Dermatologia Cosmetologica pub essere effettuato mediante assegni
di conto corrente o per contanti indirizzandoli a:
INTERNATIONAL EDIEMME Via Innocenzo XI, 41 - 00165 ROMA
e/e bancario n. 2961212 Banco di Santo Spirito Ag. 23, 00165 ROMA
O Prenoto fin da ora i volumi 2° e 3°
Con la p resente richiedo:
Copie n . ........................................ del Volume n. 1
O Invio in contrassegno
O Accludo assegno n .................................................................................................................................. (a pagamento quale anticipo di prenotazione)
TIMBRO E FIRMA
SpecificarecondizionidipagamentoefornireN° Codice Fiscale se è richiesta fattura.
MAVIGEN
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La ricerca scientifica nella dermocosmesl.
Per Campioni Medici e Documentazione Scientifica scrivere a:
Mavl Sud Sri - Direzione Propaganda Medica - Vlale dell'Industria 1 - 04011 Aprllla fLT).
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EXTRA DELICATO
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Per Campioni Medici e Documentazione Scientifica scrivere a:
Mavl Sud Sri - Direzione Propaganda Medica - Vlale dell'lndustrla 1 - 04011 Aprllla (LT).
DALLA RICERCA MAVI
GLI IDRATANTI
A PERMEABILITA' SELETTIVA
IDRATAZIONE NORMALE
IDRATAZIONE MEDIA
IDRATAZIONE FORTE
per pelle da normale a grassa
per pelle da normale a secca
trattamento intensivo
per ogni tipo di pelle
GEL IDRATANTE a fattore di idratazione 5. Reidratante cutaneo
leggero per la pelle da normale a
grassa. Arricchito con PCA noto
componente dell'NMF, glicina,
collagene "attivo" e filtri UVA- UVB.
CREMA a fattore di idratazione 10.
Idratante cutaneo per pelli da normali a secche. Arricchita con acido
gamma-linolenico, PCA, collagene
"attivo", speciali umettanti, glicina e
filtri UVA - UVB.
GEL-EMULSIONE monodose, a
fattore di idratazione 20, privo di
conservanti. Idratante cutaneo per
pelli particolarmente sensibili e
disidratate ad alta concentrazione
di principi attivi per tutti i tipi di pelle.
Arricchito con acido gamma-linolenico, fosfolipidi, speciali olii ramificati e filtri UVA - UVB.
~20'
L'IDRATAZIONE E L'ASSORBIMENTO PROGRAMMATI
CON PRECISI INDICI NUMERICI
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Mavi Sud s.r.l. - Viale dell'Industria, 1 - 04011 Aprilia (LT)
A new look at old skin:
A challenge to cosmetology
lnternational Meeting on Cosmetic Dermatology,
Rome, ltaly, March 7-9, 1985
1st
Editors: P. Morganti, W. Montagna
The proceedings contained in this volume provide comprehensive view of
the different aspects of the skin aging
with its cosmetologica! implications.
Contents (main chapters)
Readership:
Third year undergraduates, research workers in
the field of Cosmetic Chemistry, Biochemistry, Medicine, Pharmacy and Pharmacology, researchers
and managers working in
the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries.
A NEW LOOK AT OLD SKIN:
A CHALLANGE TO COSMETOLOGY
Editors: P. Morganti,
W. Montagna
The problems of the aged (R. Butler)
Nutrition ond aging (M. Proja)
Common structural changes in aging human skin
(W. Montagna)
An overview of physiological changes (8.A. Gi/chrest)
The skin as a barrier and a homeostatic compartment of the body (G. Esposito)
Skin collagen cross links natural and unnatural
(J. P. Bentley)
Aging changes in the mucus membranes (A. Jarrett)
Changes in Cutaneous appendages (FJ.G. Ebling)
Sebum secretion rates in relation to age: A new look
(J.S. Strauss)
Aging skln and Sun Damage (F Serri, L. Celleno)
Sunlight, age and skin cancer (J.C. van der Leun)
Stereology of the skin surface: a comparison between ageing and UV-induced damages (P. Corcuff)
Cosmetic wrinkle smoothing (A. Meybeck)
Collagen in cosmetic formulations: A contribution to
research on aging skin (I. Beyssac)
The cosmetic make-over in ederly women (A.M.Kligman)
Essential fatty acids and skin aging (P. Morganti,
S.D. Randazzo)
Treatment cosm etics and aging (L.C. Calvo)
Proceeding of l .st lnternational Meeting on Cosmetic Dermatology,
Rome, ltaly, March 7-9, 1985, 1986;
17-24 cm. 400 pages. Hardbound In ltaly L. 100.COO;
ISSN 0393-5779
International Society of Cosmetic Dermatology
PRESIDENT
Coleman Jacobson (USA)
HONORARY PRESIDENT
William Montagna (USA)
VICE-PRESIDENTS
Fancis John Ebling (England)
Emiliano Panconesi (ltaly)
Rodolfo Paoletti (Jtaly)
SECRETARY-GENERAL
Pierfrancesco Morganti (ltaly)
PROGRAM DIRECTOR
M. Brodie James (USA)
BOARD OF TRUSTEES
Pierre Agache (France)
Fritz Kemper (Germany)
Lawrence Parish (USA)
W.E. Parish (England)
Wolfgang Raab (Austria)
Salvatore Randazzo (ltaly)
Hans Schaefer (France)
ADVISORY BOARD
William Abramovitz (Ve nezuela)
Mohamed Amer (Egypt)
Ruben David Azulay (Brasi!)
C laude Benezra (France)
I.A. Bernstein (USA)
O. Binet (France)
Otto Braun- Falco (Germagy)
Peter Fritzch (Austria)
J. Morton Gillespie (Australia)
Marwall Harahap (Indonesia)
Vaino Hopsy-Havu (Finland)
Stephanie Jablonska (Poland)
A. Jarret (England)
Jon Kabara (USA)
F. Kardel Vegas (Venezuela)
Ch.M. Lapiere (Belgium)
Juhlin Lennart (Swedén)
R.S. Lester (Canada)
Howard Maibach (USA)
Ronald Marks (Wales)
Jose Mascara (Spain)
J.P. Ortonne (France)
G.E. Pierard (Belgium)
Jaime Rubin (Argentina)
Wolfgang Rupilius (Germany)
Raul Vignale (Uruguay)
Jacques Wepierre (France)
Chu- Kwan Wong (Taiwan)
Trimestrale di Dermatologia Cosmetologica
Quarterly Review of Cosmetic Dermatology
EDITOR
P.MORGANTI
PhD.
SECRETARY GENERAL
INTERNATIONAL SOCIETY of COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY
Via lnnoccnw Xl, 41 -00165 Roma -(haly) - Fax 06/63.80.839
ASSOCIATE EDITOR
S.D. RANDAZZO
M.D.
Professor of EXPERIMENTAL DERMATOLOGY
UNIVERSITY OF CATANIA
Via Iacona, 7 - 951 24 Catania (ltaly)
ASS ISTANT EDITOR
M.B.JAMES
M.D.
PROGRAM DIRECTOR
INTERNATIONAL SOCIETY of COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY
JAMES CLINIC
34 Forcside Common Falmoulh, Maine 04105 USA - Fax 00 1-207-7755182
EDITOR IAL ADVISORY
BOARO
P.AGA CHE
G. BELLOMONTE
W.F. BERGFELD
B. BERRA
R. CAPUTO
O. CARLES IM O
D.CERIMELE
E. CHIACCHIERIN I
I.COTTE
M.A. DINA
F.J.G. EBLING
G. FABRIZI
A. FIDANZA
D. GRAFNETTER
J.A.GRAHAM
B. GUARN IERI
A.J. JOUHAR
F.H. KEMPER
A.M. KLIGMAN
N.LOPRIENO
S.MADDIN
G. MAZZONE
C.L. MENEGH INI
W. MONTAGNA
L. MUSCARDIN
N. ORENTREICH
E. PANCONESI
R. PAOLETil
W.E.PARISH
G. PROSERPIO
L. PUGLISI
V.QUERCIA
W.RAAB
G. RABBIOSI
A.REBORA
V. RIZZA
G. SALVATORE
A.SANNA
P. SANTOIANNI
H.SCHAEFER
F.SERRI
A. SERTOLI
A.STAMMATI
I. TADDEI
H. TRONNIER
V. VALKOVIC
MD, Prof. of Dennat. Cenlre Hosp. Rcgional dc Bcsançon (F)
CChem, Prof. of Chem., Food Deparl ls1. Sup. Sani1à - Roma (I)
MD. FACP Cleveland Clinic Ohio ( USA )
DSc. Prof. o f Biol. Chem. Univ. of Milano (I )
MD, Prof. and Chainnan, Depart of Dermat. Univ. o f Milano 0)
MD .. Prof. and Chairman Depart. of Dennat. Univ. of Roma ( I)
MD. Prof. and Chaim1an, Depart. of Dennat. Univ. of Sassari (I)
CChem, Prof. and Chainnan, Depart. Tcchn. of Commcrcc Univ. of Roma (I)
DSc, Prof. of Cosmel. IPIL Lyon (F)
MD. Prof. and Chainnan, Depart. of Phatol. Anal. Ca1holic. Univ. of Roma (I )
DSc. PhD. Prof. of Zoology Univ. of Scheffield (GB )
MD, Pacdriatic Dcmrntologist, Ca1holic University of Roma (I)
DSc. Prof. and Chairman, Depart. of Physiol. Univ. of Roma (I)
PhD. lnsl. for Clinica) and Exp. Medicine Prague (CS)
B.Sc, PhD, Depl. Denna1ology Univ. of Pennsylvania ( USA)
MD, Prof. and Chairman, Dcpart. of Dcnnat. Univ. of Messina (I)
M.B.MRSC Beaconsfield (GB)
MD. Prof. and Chairman. Depart. of Phannacol. and Tox. Univ. Munster (D)
MD , PhD, Prof. of Denna1ol. Univ. of Pennsylvania Philadelphia (USA)
DSc, Prof. of Genelica Un iv. of Pisa (I)
MD, ERCP Clin. Prof. Dcrmatol. Div. Derma!. Univ. BR. Columbia, Vancouver (C)
MD, Prof. and Chairman, Depart. of Pharmacol. and Tox. Univ. of Catania {1)
MD. Prof. and Chainnan, Depart. of Dermat. Univ. of Bari ( I)
DSc, Prof. of Dennat Oregon Healt Scicnce Universi1y (USA)
MD. Prof. of Dennat. Centre Hosp. Regional IDI Roma (i)
MD. Clin. Prof. of Dennal. New York (USA)
MD, Prof. and Chairman. Depart. of Dermal. Univ. of Firenze (I)
MD. Prof. and Chainnan. Depart. of Pharmacol. and Tox. Univ. ofM ilano ([)
MA, PhD, BVSc, Head of Environmenial Safe1y Division. Unilever Rcscarch Schan brook (GB)
CChem, Prof. Ine. ofCosmcl. Chcm. Univ. ofTorino (I)
DSc, Prof. of Phannacognosy Univ. of Milano (I)
CChem, Prof. of Chem. Depart. of Phann. Chem. ls1. Sup. Sani1à Roma (I)
MD, Prof. and Chainnan, Depart. of Dennal. Univ. of Wien (A)
MD, Prof. and Chainnan, Dcpart. of Dcnnat. Univ. of Pavia (I)
MD, Prof. and Chairman. Dcpart . of Dermat. Un iv. of Genova (I)
Ph.D. Prof. of Biol. Chem. Un iv. of Caiania (I)
CChem, Depart. ofToxicol. lsl. Sup. Sanità Roma (l)
MD, Prof. and Chairman, Depart. of Microbio!. Catholic. Univ. of Roma (I)
MD. Prof. and Chainnan, Depart. of Dennat. Univ. of Napoli (I)
MD. PhD, Prof. and Chainnan, Depart. of Phannacol. CIRO Sophia-Anlipolis Valbone (F)
MD, Prof. and Chainnan, Depart. of Dennat. Catholic. Univ. of Roma (I)
MD, Assoc. Prof. of Allergie and Occupational Derma!. Univ. of Fi renze (I)
l?SC, Depart. of Toxicol. Is1. Sup. Sanilà of Roma (I)
B.Sc., Prof. and Chainnan. Depart. of Pharmacol. Science Univ. of Siena (I)
MD, Prof. and Chairman, Depart. of Derma1ol. S1adtischen Kliniken of Dortmund (0 )
CChem, Prof. of Physic Ruder Boskovic' lnsl. ofZagreb (Y)
GENERAL INFORMATION
The JOURNAL OF APPLIED COSMETOLOGY is an international journal devoted to publi schi ng o riginai
papers, reviews and o ther materiai which represent a useful contribution to research on the skin and o n cosmetics.
It is aimed at cosmetic chemi sts, dermatologi sts, microbiologists, pharmacists, experimental biologists, toxicologists, plastic surgeons, and ali other scientists working on products which will come into contact with the
skin and its appendages.
The Joumal is publisched quarterly in English. It is distributed to cosmetic chemists, dermatologists, plastic
surgeons, medicai and pharmaceutical schools. medicai libraries, selected hospitals and research institutions
throught the world, and by subscription to any other interested individuals or organizations. Statements and
opinions expressed are persona! to the respective contributors and are not necessari ly e ndorsed by the
Editor(s), Advisers, Publishers of Distributors of thi s Journal.
COPYRIGHT
Submitted materiai must be the originai work of the autor(s) and must not have been submitted for publication
elsewhere.
By submitting a manuscript, the authors agree that the copyright for their articles is transferred to the publisher
if and when the artic le is accepted for publication. None of the content o f thi s publ ication may be rcproduced
in whole or in parl, tran slated, stored in a retrieval syslem, or transmitted or distri buted in any form o r by any
means (elecu·onic, mechan ical, photocopy, recording or otherwise) without the prior written permi ssion of the
Publ is hers.
Sections of Journal
The fo llowing sections will be featu res of the Journal:
Originai Laboratory Studies: descriptions of originai investigative laboratory research in cosmetics and related areas.
Special Reports: Items of special interest to the readers, including reports on meetings, societies, legislation, etc.
Generai Articles: scientifi c articles of generai interest to our readers will be considered for publication. These
articles should be concerned with newer developments in s uch related fields as dermatology, biology, tox icology, etc.
Short Communicatio11s: the lenght shou ld not exceed 5 typewritten pages with not more than 3 fig ures
included. Headings ("Materials", "Discussion", etc.) as well as Summaries are to be omitted. If accepted, these
s ubmission will appear in print in a very short time.
Letter to the Editor: comments on Journal articles are inv ited as well as brief contributions on any aspects of
cosmetic science. Letters may include figu res, and/or references, but brevity is necessary.
Guest Editorials: concise, authotitative, s ubstantiated commentary on specific topics of contemporary interest.
Book Reviews: book and monographs (domestic and foreign) will be reviewed depending on their interest and
value to subscribers. Send materiai for review to the Editor, Dr. P. Morganti. No such materiai will be returned.
Address:
ali papers should be submitted to:
Dr. P. Morganti
INTERNATIONAL EDIEMME
Via Innocenzo Xl , 41
00 165 Rome - Italy
Tel. 06/637.87.88
INFORMATION FOR AUTHORS
Papers must be submitted in English. Authors whose mother to ngue is not English shou ld arrange for their
manuscripts to be written in proper Eng lish prior to submission.
Procedure of Submission of Manuscripts: submit three copies of both the manuscript and ali illustrati ve
materiai to the abòve address.
Orga11izatio11 of the Ma11uscript: investigative studies should be organized as follow: tit le, abstract page,
introduction , materiai and methods, results, di scussion, acknowledgments, references, legend for fi gures,
tables. Ali pages should be numered consecutively starting with the abstract. The entire manuscript is to be
typewritten, double-spaced, and with 3 cm margi ns.
Trade names must be capitalized: the common name for compounds may be used if the formai chemical name
as established by international convention is given after the first use . Any abbreviations other than those which
are generally accepted must be defined. In the text, references to dual authors will use both surnames throughout. For multiple authors, use the surnames of ali authors at the first reference and only the first author fo llowed by "et al." thereafter. Please mark in the margin of the manuscript the desired position of the fi gures and
tables. To allow faster publication only set of proofs will be furni sched to the author including the figures and
tables in their fina l position.
~
Title page: list the title, name(s) and degree(s) of author(s), department(s) and instillltion(s) at which the work
was done, city, state, and postai code . Any preli minary report or abstract of the work should be referred to as a
footnote to the title.
Su111111ary: each paper must be headed by an Engl ish language title of not o ver 70 characters (including spaces) suitable for use as a running head and must also be proceded by an English summary not exceeding 300
words typed double-spaced. The summary wi ll include statements of the proble m, method of study, results,
and conclusions. Si nce thi s summary will be used by astracting journals, it must be self- explanatory and
shou ld not inlcude abbreviations, footnotes, and references.
Foot11otes: should be listed consecutively at the bottom of the page on which they fa ll , desig nateci by the fo llowing sy mbols in order *, +, +,§, II,**, etc.
Key Words: key words for computerised storage and retrieval of information should be incorporateci in the
summary.
Refere11ces: the references have to be abbreviateci as listed in the Index Medicus. The style of the references
must confonn to the examples given below:
I) Robbi ns CR, Kellych (1970) Aminoacid composition of human hair. Text Res J 40:89 1-896
2) Strehler BL (1977) Time, cells and aging 2 nd edn. Academic Press, New York
3) Ebling FJ , Rook ( 1972) C iclic activity of the fo ll icle. I n: Textbook of dermato logy 11 , Blackwell, Oxford, p.
1567- 1573.
Jllu stratio11s: figures should be numbered consecutively using Arabic numerals Tables should be numbered
consecutively, using Roman numerals. Ali photographs should be black and white, glossy and unmounted. The
number and size of illustration should be restricted to the minimum needed to clarify the text. Authors requiring extra space for illustrations will be charge accordingly. This is also the case for color illustrations. Ali
figures, photographs, graphs, or d iagrams should be submitted o n separate sheets.
Animai Experiments: descriptions of animai experi ments should include full details of the ty pes of animai
used (inbred, etc.) and the condi tions under which they were kept (standard diet , etc.).
Trade Names: ali common cosmetic ingredients should be referred to by their generic names, as indicateci in
the latest editio n of CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, and the European Pharmacopeia. Ifa materials is
not listed, then the trademarked name can be used, with the chemical composition given in footnotes.
STAMP
Spett. Direzione
"JOURNAL OF APPLIED COSMETOLOGY"
INTERNATIONAL EDIEMME
Via Innocenzo Xl, 41
00165 ROMA (ITALY)
STAMP
Spett. Direzione
"JOURNAL OF APPLIED COSMETOLOGY"
INTERNATIONAL EDIEMME
Via Innocenzo Xl, 41
00165 ROMA (ITALY)
Trimestrale di Dermatologia Cosmetologica
Quarterly Review of Cosmetic Dermatology
Contents
Generai Articles
25
Tolerance of the lesioned skin to dermatological formulations
B. Gabard. Th. Nook a nd K.H. Muller
3l
Contact allergie dermatitis: the need tor consistency in data collection and
analysis
M.F. Wood er a nd C. Ko c h
Originai Laboratory Studies
35
Contact allergy to preservatives in cosmetics and relationship to the
degree of formaldehyde allergy
G. Richter and J. Barth
40
Book Review
XIX Announcements
4th lnternational Meeting of lnternational Society of Cosmetic Dermatology
"Progress in Cosmetic Dermatology: Science and Safety"
Rome - ltaly October 30-November 2, 1991
Preliminary Program
18° World Congress of Dermatology
New York City - from June 12-18, 1992
J. App/. Cosmetol. 9, 25-30 (Aprii - June 1991)
TOLERANCE OF THE LESIONED SKIN
TO DERMATOLOGICAL FORMULATIONS
B. Gabard*, Th. Nook and K.H. Muller
*Department of Biopharmacy, Spirig AG, CH-4622 Egerkingen (Switzerland)
Received: October 26, 1989: Presented at at 3rd lnternational Congress on Cosmetic Dermatology "Progress in Cosmetic Dermatology" - 27 - 29th October 1989, Wien
Key words: lrritation: Scarification: Stripping: Na-Lauryl Su/fate: Propylene Glycol: Urea: Osmolarity; pH; Antimicrobials.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Synopsis
Dermatologica! fo rmulations often are appl ied on les ioned skin in the course of the treatment of fo r
example d ry skin, eczema or atopic disease. Therefore we felt it important to devise a test fo r quantification of the toleran ce of these formulations. For this purpose, the horny layer was tape-stripped
unti! the transepidermal water loss (TEWL, as measured under standard conditions) attai ned 40-50
g/cm2 h. This needed approximately I0-15 strips. After an interval of at least 30 min during which
the TEWL decreased to values of 30-40 g/cm2 h, the test products were applied to the stripped area
and the reactions were assessed by the volun teer accord ing to a 4-point scale during and immediately after the applications. Standards were used fo r q uantification, identification and comparison purposes: NaC I (0.l - 10%), Urea (0.5-20%) and Propylene Glycol (l-70%). In addi tion the pH of the
test solution was varied between 3 and 8. Curves relating-effect to concentration allowed more
precise assessment of the relative roles of the diffe re nt components of formulations. For example,
Urea and Propylene G lycol may lead to buming reactions on lesioned skin at the concentrations
usually found in dermatologica! products. Similarly, antimicrobials in permitted concentrations may
play a role in these reactions.
-----------------Riassunto
Le formu lazioni dermatologiche vengono spesso applicate su cute lesa per eccessiva secchezza, per
la presenza di eczemi o di dermatiti atopiche.
È perciò importante che venga accuratamente valutata la tolleranza di queste formulazioni. A questo scopo sono stati eliminati mediante "strappo" alc uni strati del corneo fino ad ottenere una
TEWL di 40-50 g/cm 2 h. A tal rig uardo sono necessari circa 10/15 "strappi".
Dopo circa 30 minuti durante i quali i valori TEWL raggiungevano il valore di 30-40 g/cm 2/h venivano applicati i prodotti da sperimentare sulle zone im poverite di corneo.
Rilevando la reattività ottenuta mediante una scala d i valori numerici prima e dopo l 'applicazione
dei prodotti è stato possibile controllare il grado di tolleranza di alcune materie prime di uso corrente, quali ad esempio l'Urea ed il glicol propilenico.
È stata verificata anche l'influenza svolta dal pH, e dalle diverse concentrazioni d ' uso permesse.
25
Toterance of the tesioned skin to dermatologica/ formulations
Professor Albert Kligman wrote in 1982 (1): "In
our age of skin consciousness and abundant use
of cosmetics and toiletries aware ness is growing
that the great majority of undesired reactions
represent irritancy." And further: "The biologie
truth is that ali substances are irritating for some
persons under some conditio ns, althoug h extreme exposures may be necessary to bring this
to light." End of citation.
The problem of irritation is far from a theoretical one. Irritation could be tentatively defined as
a very generai notion for undesired reac tions.
These can widely vary in their intensity, in their
man ifestations and in the moment they will be
perceived as suc h because people diffe r enormously in their susceptibility to irritating substances and because the reactivity of the skin is
influenced by many fac tors. In add ition, topica!
preparations, whether drugs or cosmetics, are
o ften app lied to da maged skin . Indeed, it is
surpris ing how often c reams or ointments a re
used as home remedies for burns, abrasions,
bites, and rashes of ali kinds.
Hence it is not out of order or unrealistic to assess the probability of a substance being irritative under the most ex treme conditions. This
perm its di scrimination among the test products
because reactions are suffici entl y intense also
METHOD
Stripping
l
Application
l
Rest
allowing some standard isation. For this purpose,
we must make sure that the substance reach the
viable tissue under the horny layer. The barrier
can be eliminated by scarifi cation, as in the
scarification test of Frosch a nd Kligman (2) or
by tape stripping. Testin.g products on damaged
skin is also necessary if, as in our case, are primarily aimed at ili people.
Among the many reactions of the skin whic h
co uld be c lassified under irrita tion we were
especially interested in those called " in visible
reactions" by Professor Kligman (I). Topica!
preparations can cause di sagreeable sensations
- burning, itching, stinging - immed iate ly after
appli cation a nd w ill be rejected by the consumers, especially in pediatrics. These preparations are not irritative in the ordinary sense and
usually do not damage the skin. The reactions
can be very intense and unpleasant, a nd this is
why we feel it important, for the products we
are selling, to try to evaluate such immedia te
reactions.
For ali these reasons, we performed the tests on
stripped skin and recorded immediate reactions.
We used the following method (Fig . l): On the
ventral side of fo rearms, up to 5 areas of approximately lx 2 cm were stripped. Strip ping
was continued unti! the transepidermal water
Reaction
Mean Score
o
<0.5
absent
0.5 - 1.0
slight
1.1 - 2.0
moderate
2.1 -3.0
severe
1
2
3·
g
g
8
Q
FIGURE 1
26
B. Gabard. Th. Nook and K.H. Mu/ler
lo ss a tta in ed 40- 50 g/m 2 x h w hi c h us u a ll y
needed l O to 15 strips. T he reaf te r, a rest ing
peri od of at least 30 min was observed, duri ng
whic h the transepide rmal wate r loss stabilised
around va lues of 30-40 g/m 2 xh a nd the sensation of irri tation due to the stri pping vanished .
The test products were applied on the stripped
area tak ing care to avoid or mi nimalise any mec han ica l st imu la t io n. Li quid p rod uc ts were
dropped on the skin with a pne um ati c pi pette,
c reams and ointrnents were careful ly pasted on
the stripped surface. The test produc ts remained
on the stripped area for a max imum of 3 mi n.
Im med iate sensations, mainl y bu rn ing, were
graded on a fo ur poi nt scale from O (no reacti o n), I (s light), 2 (mode ra te) to 3 (severe).
Mean scores were calculated a nd the results expressed as < (lower) 0.4 (no reaction), 0.5 to 1.0
(slig ht), I. I to 2.0 (mode ra te) a nd 2 . 1 to 3.0
(severe). This gradation has also been used by
Frosch and Kl igman to class ify the irrita tio n
meas ured with the scarifi cation test thus enabling comparisons to be made, although we are
aware that the two phenome na a re com ple te ly
differe nt in their nature.
First, we investigated reactions to di fferent classes of substances used in topica! fo rmul ations
su c h as su rfacta nts, pe ne tra t ion e nh a ncers ,
moisturi zers, a li in aqueo us solutions. Sodium
La ury l S ulfate (Fig . 2) is a good examp le to
s ho w the d iffe re nce we fo un d be tw ee n th e
scarifi cation tes t a nd o ur tes t. T his agent is
known to irri tate the norma i skin at the concentrations we used a nd scarificati on greatly
reduces the irritati on th reshold. Immediate reactions were almost absent up to the concentratio n
of I%. O n the contrary, Propylene Glycol (Fig.
3), whic h is incorporated in many topica! fo rm ul at ions as a pe netra tio n e nha nce r, readi ly
provoked burni ng sensatio ns whe n app lied on
stripped ski n but showed a low irritation potenti al in the scarification test.
Propylene Glycol
Score
3 .------ - - - - - - - , . . . -- -- - - - ,
o
0
0!--~1~
0___,2~0-3~0-~
40,..-~
50,..-~
60,..-~1=
0 -~s~
o ---,0'='-""':":!
0 100
Concentration {%)
O Stripped: 6 volunteers
Scarilied:
ref.2
...._D
__
_ _Data
_ from
__
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ FIGURE 3
Urea (Fig. 4), as a moisturizer, led to a measurable rate of immed iate reac tions without g reat
de pe ndency on the concentration. Inte resti ngly,
higher concentrations did not much enhance this
rate, whi ch was almost comparable to the resul ts obtained after scarification.
Among other factors whic h could have a major
impact on the rate of immedi ate reactions of
Urea
Na Lauryl Sulfate
Score
Score
2.5
3.--- - --------- ----.
1-- -- -- - - - - - - -- ---t
21-- - -- - - -- -- - - - - - t
1.5
1-- - - -- - - - - -- - - - -t
0 <..i..:::::::t:-,..,___.,...,...-.,.,._.....,..,,_~_,,'::-~---:,..,___.
o
0.1
0.2
0.3
0.4
0.5
0.6
0.7
0.8
0.9
0
O Stripped: 8 volunteers
D Scarlfied : Data from ref.2
L--------------~FI GURE 2
0!---~s----..,1~
0----=
15,..----,2~
0 -~2~5--.,,3~
0 -~35
Concentration (%)
Concentration {%)
O
D
Stripped: 6 volunteers
Scarified: Data from rel.2
. _ _ - - - - -- - - - --
- - - FIGURE 4
27
Tolerance of the /esioned skin to dermatologica/ formulations
stripped skin are the osmolarity and the pH of
topica! formulations . Osmolarity (Fig. 5) was
of sodium chloride was present. The dependency on osmolity was steep, again showing a
pH
NaCI
Score
Score
3
2.5
o
2
~
1.5
o~ -
~
0.5
o
5
7.5
10
12.5
15
17.5
20
22.5
25
o
2
4
5
6
~~
7
8
9
10
pH
Concentration (%)
O Stripped: 6 volunteers
O
3
6 volunteers
Scarified: Data from ref.2
L--------------~FIGURE5
in ves tigated with different conce ntration s of
sodium chl oride. An inte resting findin g was a
meas urabl e reaction score for di stilled water,
perhaps d ue to excessive hypoosmolarity. The
score a lways diminished if a low concentration
...__ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ FIGURE 6
marked diffe re nce with th e scarification test.
lsotoni c buffers of different pHs (F ig. 6) between 3 and 8 markedly influenced the score of
the reactions. Most intensive responses were
recorded with a pH unde r 4.
Table I
Antimicrobial
Concentration %
Score
Vehicle
Triclosan
0.3
0.4
O/W cream
Chlorhex idine
dihydrochloride
0.3
O.S
O/Wcream
0.3
0.8
O/W Lotio I Urea 2%
Hexamidine
isethionate
O.S
o
0 /Wcream
Phenyle thy la lcohol
0.S
0.S
O/Wc ream
Phenoxyethy la lcohol
2.0
2.8
O/Wcrea m
0.3
0.3
0.2
O/W cream
Trilclosan +
Chlorhexidine
Trilclosan +
Phenox yethy lalcohol
28
----
-----~I-
------------ ---------~-~---
l.O
-~~;- ~,~e~~
--------
W/0 Lotio I Urea 2%
B. Gabard, Th. Nook and K.H. Muller
At this stage of the experiments, one could tentatively summarized that for o ur purposes, a topica) product should show a neutra! pH and a
low osmola rity. Penetration enhancers and moistu ri ze rs sh o uld not be prese nt or their use
sho uld be carefu ll y conside red.
lt is known that other important factors whi ch
often le ad to disag reeabl e reac ti o ns are a ntimi crob ial age nts . Some re le vant data are
shown in Table I. In terestingly, we did not find
hig h reaction score s for an timicrobial s incorporated into suitable vehicles in permitted concentrations except fo r Phenoxyethylalco hol. Addition of urea sli g htly e nha nced the scores as
anticipated. Com bination of two antimi cro bia ls
did not genera lly lead to hi g her scores, aga in
with the exception of Phenoxyethy la lcohol.
Las t but not least, although we feel that im me diate reaction s are very important fo r the
s uccess of a product, the long-terms irritative
pote nti a l should not be neglected. As pointed
out in thi s communication, the test on stri pped
sk in and the scarification test lead mostly give
differe nt results and are not predictive of each
othe r. This was confirmed with a syndet (Table
2). That is, we do not replace the evaluation of a
poss i ble irrit at io n as pe rfor m ed wi th t he
scarification test by scoring immediate reactions
afte r appli cation of the produc t on stri pped ski n.
Rather, we conside r both tests as independent
but useful complements integrated in a product
developmen t scheme as an optimi zation of dermatologica! formulation s before going on the
market.
Tabi e Il
Washsyndet
Antimicrobial s:
Triclosan 1,0%
Bronidox 0,2 %
Test
Score
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------Stripped
l .4
Scarified
2. 3
5 volunteers
29
Tolerance of the lesioned skin to dermatologica/ formulations
Acknowledgement
Thanks are due to E. Bieli for he r skilfu l technical assistance.
References
1. Kligman AM (1982): Assessrnent of rnil d irritants in: "Principles of cosmetics far the dermato/ogist", Frost P. and Horwitz SN eds., T he CV Mosby Cornpany, St. Louis Toron to London ,
pp. 265-276.
2. Frosch PJ Kligman AM (1978): "An irnproved procedures for assaying irri tants: The scarification test" Current Problems in Dermatology 7, 69-79.
30
J. Appl. Cosmetol. 9. 31-34 (Aprii- June 1991)
CONTACT ALLERGIC DERMATITIS:
THE NEED FOR CONSISTENCY IN DATA COLLECTION ANO ANALYSIS
M.F. Wooder and C. Koch
ROHM a nd HAAS EUROPE, Lenning Ho use 2 - Ma ison's Avenue Croyd on Surrey
Received: October 26, 1989: Presented at at 3rd lnternational Congress on Cosmetic Dermatology "Progress in Cosmetic DermatologyH- 27 - 29th October 7989, Wien
Key Words: Preva lence rate: Relevance: Jnter-clinic; Variation: Patch testing: Contact al/er-
gy; Dermatitis.
Synopsis
The ala1m that clinical skin alle rgy reports gene rate is in some cases greate r tha n that generated by
reports of carci nogenicity e.g. cigarette smoki ng. It would be necessary for the medicai community
to educate the lay pubblic that the reported prevalence rates are clinical and therefore of not d irect
relevance to the generai population.
It woul d be also of paramoun t importance to educate the public to realise that a positive patch-test
is not, of itself, proof that the current clinical cond it ions was caused by that a llergen.
Riassunto
L'attenzione che il grande pubblico riserva agli articoli riguardanti le allergie c utanee è spesso superi ore de ll ' analoga atte nzione rivolta ai rapporti sull a carcinogenesi provocata dall ' uso de lle sigarette. Sarebbe a uspicabile, quindi che la classe medi ca educasse il pubblico a valu tare piu attentame nte
i dati clin ici perché non sempre l'alle rgene evidenziato è il vero responsabile d i un dato quadro clinico e non sempre la specifica reattivi tà cutanea di poch i individui e estensibile ad una vasta popola zione.
31
Contact allergie dermatitis:the need tor consistency in data collection and analysis
There is currently a heightened awareness, on
baseline clinical population. The choice off th is
baseline population varies from cli nic to clinic
the part of the generai public, of the problems
and so therefore do the prevale nce rates. As an
assoc iated with ski n allergy, contact allergie
dermatitis. This awareness, particularly in the
example of how the prevale nce rates vary with
the c hoice of denominator, cons ider the fallowarea of cosmetics and toil e tri es, is in som e
respects a consequence of our consumer coning simple model. Figure I shows the schematic
scious society and i fuelled , at least in part, by
tlow of patients presenting with dermatological
reports in the popular media deri ved from cliniproble ms to the de rmatology cli nics. ff actual
cal data. Data are.published by the practitione r
patient numbers (de Groot 1988) are now superimposed on thi s scheme we arri ve at the situain medicai Journals such as the Lancet and Contact Dermatitis, and these are now common ' tion shown in figure 2. Using as the denominator far our calculation of prevalence rates the tohunting grounds far scientific journalists. The
co nce rn and a larm that these a ll e rgy re ports
ta! number of patients attending the cli nic, the
generate, can in some cases be greater than that
tota! number patch tested (suspected of contact
a llergie derm atitis) or the number diagnosed as
ge nerated by re ports of carcin ogenicity e.g.
c igarette smokin g . r be lieve that, given thi s
suffe ring from cosmetic alle rgy we can calculacl imate, it would be time ly far the medicai comte the prevalence rates shown in table I. As you
munity to ed ucate the lay public to realise that
ca n see they vary by severa! o rders of magthe reported prevalence rates are clin ica! data,
nitude. If this exerc ise is repeated, far example,
with the group of patients with positive patch
relating onl y to the c linic of generation and
test reactions to bioc ides we get a similar set of
therefare not of direct re levance to the gene rai
population. What the n is a prevalence rate?
di sparate results. This hi ghli ghts one of the inhere nt problems in comparing data reported by
Within t he individuai c linics th e prevale nce
rates are an ex pression of the number of patients
different practitione rs with that in the medicai
with patch positive responses relative to a g iven
literature (Wooder and Koch 1988). In add iti on,
PATIENTS WITH
DERMATOLOGICAL PROBLEMS
l
PATIENTS WITH
DERMATOLOGICAL. PROBLEMS
l
Dl~~~"sE~-
Dl~~:."sE~1
1
CONTACT DERMATITIS
CONTACT DERMATITIS
IRRITANT
ALLERGIC
IRRITANT
1403 ALLERGIC
!
COSMETIC + - - - PATCH TEST
J:
NEGATIVE
I
l
{RELAVENT
POSITIVE
!
49 COSMETIC+---PATCH TEST
J:
NEGATIVE
IRRELAVENT
32
15522
I
l
{RELAVENT
POSITIVE
IRRELAVENT
....___ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ FIGURE 2
M. F. Wooder and C. Koch
these prevale nce rates re late o nly to the clinica!
population under study and no t directly to the
gene rai public i.e. the meas ure of ri sk that we
have come s not from the no rmai population but
fro m patients patc h-tested in the derma tology
c lini c s . Thi s o b v io u s ly pro v ides a biased
population, as people o nly a ttend s uch c linics if
they have skin pro ble ms, a nd th e number of
patc h tes t p o s iti ve reac ti o n s seen by d e rmatolog ists is bound to be g reate r than that you
wou ld ex pect to find in the norma i population.
Thus the hig h prevale nce of positi ve patch-test
re a c tion s in pa ti e nts a tte ndin g de rmatol ogy
c linic s mea n little mo re than the finding tha t
th e re is a hi g h pre va le n ce o f hy pe rg lyce mi a/hy p og lyce mi a in pa ti e nt s a tte ndin g
dia be te s cl ini cs. lt is also of paramount impo rta nce that the public is educateci to realise th at a
positive patch test to a partic ular a ll ergen is no t,
of itself, proof th at the c urre nt c linica( condi tio ns was caused by that all ergen, i.e. whereas a
negati ve test does not necessarily mean that the
patient has a se ns iti v ity w hich is re levant to
th e ir c urre nt c linica! probl e m. Re le vance of
positive patch-test reactions has become a major
area of concern for those worki ng in the fie ld of
contact dermatitis. The reason that many positive reacti ons are not re levant is that the e lic itation of sensitisatio n is no t ali or none phe nomenon. Like the majority of effects seen in pha rmaco logy a nd tox icology, skin sen siti sation
shows c lear dose re spo nse re lationships. Thus
a lthoug h the patient may react to a che mical in a
patc h-tes t at a pa rtic ul a r co ncentrati o n, they
may never react to the much lower concentrati ons that they a re exposed to in every day li fe.
In other words, the patch-test re sponse gives the
most pess imistic measure of risk rathe r than the
actua l risk.
Thus il would be he lpful if the term prevalence
was used in a more precise way, i.e . e ither by
carefull y de fining on each occasion, the group
Table I
EFFECT OF DENOMINATOR ON PREVALENCE RATES
BIOCIDE
No
TOTAL
SUSPECTED
COSMETIC
BIOCIDE
POS ITIVE
PATIENTS
CAD
A LLERGY
A LLERGY
-------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------Benzoxonium Chloride
I
0.006
0.07
2.04
10
Chloroacetamide
I
0.006
0.07
2.0~
10
Formaldehyde
I
0.006
0.07
2.04
IO
lmidazolidinyl Urea
I
0.006
0.07
2.04
10
Kathon CG
3
0.02
0.21
6.12
30
Parabens
I
0.006
0.07
2.04
IO
Quatemium-15
2
0.012
0.14
4.08
20
DeGroot 1989
33
Contact allergie dermatitis:the need tor consistency in data collection and analysis
to whic h it applies, and the refore the groups to
which it does not apply, or better stili agreeing a
standardi sed defin ition that would allow genuine comparison of the valuable data from different clinics. In the same contex t I would also
suggest that we need mo re information on the
popula tion prevalence rates. These add itions,
woul d I believe, greatly enha nce good cli nica!
and epidemiologica! practi ce.
Table Il
EFFECT OF DENOMINATOR ON PREVALENCE RATES
CLASS OF
INGREDLENT
No
TOTAL
SUSP ECTED
C OSMETIC
POS ITIVE
PATIENTS
CAD
AL LERGY
------------------------------------------------------------------------------Fragrances
28
0.18
2.0
57
Biocides
IO
0.06
0.71
20
Emulsifiers
4
0.03
0.3
8.16
Miscellaneous
9
0.06
0.64
18.37
DeGroot 1989
References
1. De Groot AC (1988): "Adverse reac tions to cosmetics" Thesis Rijksuniversiteit Groningen .
2. Wooder M.F. and Koch C (1988) : "Kathon CG - A 15 year experience" Poste r presentation,
Forum Cosmeticum, Basle.
34
J. Appl. Cosmetol. 9, 35-38 (Aprii - June 1991)
CONTACT ALLERGY TO PRESERVATIVES IN COSMETICS ANO RELATIONSHIP TO THE DEGREE OF
FORMALDEHYDE ALLERGY
G. Richter* and J. Barth
*Klinik tor Hautkrankheiten Medizinische Akademie "Cari Gust av Carus"
DDR-8019 Dresden , FetscherstraBe 74
Received: October 26, 1989: Presented at at 3rd /nternational Congress on Cosmetic Der-matology "Progress in Cosmetic Dermatology" - 27 - 29th October 1989, Wien
Key words: Allergy: Formaldehyde: Formaldehyde Releasers: Cosmetics
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ synopsis
In 6200 patch test series performed because of the tentati ve diagnosis "contact dermatitis" we found
497 (8.0%) positi ve patch test reactions to potential ingredients of cosmetics, 221 (3.6%) of them at
ali relevant and only 8 (0. 1%) due to formaldehyde releasers (FR).
Test series with d iffere nt formaldehyde concentrations and FR in 140 patients sufferin g from
proven allergy to formaldehyde revealed:
The potenti al hazard of allerg ie side effects varies among the different FR and is correlated with the
degree of fo nnaldehyde sensitivity.
Riassunto
Nel tentativo di giungere ad una diagnosi certa si sono eseguiti 6.200 patch test predittivi.
497 (8%) delle risposte positive sono da addebitarsi a ingredienti cosmetici.
La reattività è molto evidente in 221 (3,6 %) patch test e soltanto 8 (0, I %) risposte positive sono
attribuibi li a composti donatori di formaldeide. È stato, inoltre, rilevato che il grado di positività ri scontrata per la presenza dei donatori di formaldeide e direttamente correlabile al grado di sensibilizzazione alla formaldeide dei soggetti esaminati.
35
Contact al/ergy to preservatives in cosmetics and relationship to the degree of formaldehyde A/lergy
Cosmetic- relate d a lle rg ies are the subject o f
numerous public ation s. So w ill onl y briefl y
prese n t ou r ep idem iolog ica ! data, w hi c h is
limi ted to em ul s ifie rs an d preservati ve s, and
draw attentio n to possible correlations wi th the
fo rmalde hyde a lle rgy.
7254 patie nts were patch tested because of a
tentati ve di agnos is of "contact dermatitis or eczem a", 5470 w ith th e GDR -s tandard series,
containing wool alcoho ls and parabens, and 620
with a specia l series (emuls ifiers and preservati ves); a ltogether 6200 patie nts were tested with
potenti a l ing red ients of cosmetics.
In tab le I the statistica( res ults from our computer s tore d data a re s ummari zed. Th e
re levance was determined o n the bas is of case
hi sto ry a nd medi ca i examinati o n. This tabl e
shows two things: first the well known fact that
side effects from addi tives are much more freque nt in th e rapeuti c pre parations, applie d to
damaged skin and proba bly containing othe r
po we rful se ns iti zers, than in cos me tics. The
re lati on 221 :45, th at is about 5: I , agreed wi th
other published experiences in this fie ld.
Secondly we ca n see tha t the ranking list of
such allergens depends on the frequency of pe rformed tests and on the duration and amount of
exposure. Parabens have for many years been
the bas ic preservatives in nearly ali vehicl es of
the o il in water-type, produced in the GDR.
Piaso lan®, an imidazolidinyl urea like Germall®,
has been used fo r about LO years, Bronopol®and
Kathon CG® since 1985. The " othe r preservati ves" include sorb ic acid, gallates and benza lconium c hl o ride, up to now (l989) no Kathon
CG®. From the 8 cosmetic-re lated a lle rg ies to
form alcle hyde re leasers (FR) only 5 also showed
a fo rmaldehyde a llergy. As these substances are
no part of the standard series, a lo t of sensiti zations may have been undetected. On the othe r
hand , formalde hycle has unques ti o nabl y bee n
the major a llergen in the GDR for many years,
espec iall y in young women, that is in persons
w ho no rmall y use a lot of cos me ti cs. So we
considere d whether cosmetic intolerance mi g ht
be re lated to forma lclehyde allergy.
Table I
POSITIVE PATCH TESTS
E mul sifiers
Preservati ves
tot al
re levant at a li
cosmetic related
Wool alcoho ls
156
99
12
27
18
5
155
83
15
Formalde hyde-releaser
46
14
8
Other preservatives
13
7
5
Other emul sifie rs
Parabens
------------------------------------------------------------------------------Tota!
% of 6200 test series
36
497
8.0
22 1
3.6.
45
0.7
G. Richter ond J. Borth
In coopera ti on with Rothe and Zschunke from
the Centrai Institute of Occupational Medicine
. in Berlin we tested th is seri es (upper line) and
in our department, moreover, th ese additional
formaldehyde concentratio ns . In 20 patients,
most of them wi th minor symptoms or a famil y
history of atopy, repeated contro! tests revealed
s light irrita nt reaction s to the I % a nd 0.7 %
pre paration s. It s hou ld be ke pt in mind that
th ese gene rall y recommend ed concentrations
mi g ht g ive ri se to fa lse positi ve reactions in
severa ! cases. The vehi c le of the FR (un gt.
e muls. aq uos.) is the o/w-emuls ion of our pharmacopoeia and the basic vehi cle in this type of
cosmetic.
In the rema ining 140 subj ects, suffe ring from
proven allergy to formalcle hyde, confirmed by
repeatecl patch testing ancl aclditiona ll y by the
case history and c linica! pattern, we obtained
these results:
Two aspects a re of cosmetica! interest.
I.: The potential hazard varies distinctly among
the different FR. It is low for Bronopol®, somewhat higher for Germall®and Piasolan®, respect i ve ly, a ncl cle arly hi g her in Dow ic il 200®.
Grotan BK®, a biocide in c utting fluids, is the
strongest alle rgen and clearly re leases the most
formaldehyde. Among these 3 preservatives the
amount of free formald e hyde in fres h and 3
month s tored pre pa ration s, re s pec ti ve ly,
decreased from Dowic il 200®, set as I00%, to
a bo ut 50% in G e rm a ll 11 5 ® and 20% in
Bronopol®, as described by HABEL. This is the
same order as in most other published rank ing
li sts of contac t all e rg ies to cosmetics, for instance those by FISHER, DE GROOT or EIERMA NN. Though onl y a part of the allergies to
suc h prese rvatives is coupled with a formal dehyde allergy, their sensitizing potency is obviously re la teci to the amount of released fo rmaldehyde.
2.: The freque ncy of positive tests due to FR is
significantly corre lated with the degree of hypersensitivity to forn1aldehyde (p <O.O I).
Hence it fol lows th at especiall y in persons with
highly marked hypersensiti vity to formaldehyde
FR in cosmetics are capable o f provoking rela pses o f a llergie de rmatitis. But even these positive patch test reactions do not autom aticall y
imply an intolerance of cosmetics. Only 5 of the
66 a lle rg ie wome n, tested in Dresde n, had a
con firmed case his tory of contact de rm atitis
from skin care products containing FR. None
had problems with rinse off produc ts. So we
be lieve, that patients with formaldehyde allergy,
provided it is not an extreme one, need not com-
Table Il
SUBSTANCES, CONCENTRATIONS AND VEHICLES USED IN PATCH TESTING:
Formaldehyde 0.7%, 0.35%, 0.2%, 0.05% w.
(additional in 86 patients from Dresden formaldehyde I% pet., l % and O. I % w.)
Piasolan 2 %, Dowicil 200 and Germall 115 1%,
Bronopol 0 .25% in ungt.e muls.aquos.
Grotan BK I% w.
37
Contact allergy to preservatives in cosmetics and relationship to the degree of formaldehyde Allergy
plete ly avo id cosm e tic s prese rve d by s uch
c hemicals. But to prevent adverse effects from
possi bl y incorporated FR, they should perform a
repeated open application test before usin g a
new, unknown cosmetic.
Table lii
Reactivity
toFR
Degree of hypersensitivity
to forma ldehyde (% w)
Positive
reactions
0.7
0.35
0.2
0.05
tota!
Bronopol
Germall 115
Piasolan
Dowicil 200
Grotan BK
FR negative
I
3
17
I
2
2
4
14
23
I
5
7
16
42
Il
3
2
4
14
19
5
9
13
35
78
No. of subjects
21
40
59
20
o
-
140
References
1. Eiermann, H.J., Larsen, W., Maibach, H.I. and Taylor, J .S (1982).: Prospective study of cosmetic reactions: 1977-1980. J. Am. Ac. Derm. 6 909 - 917
2. F isher, A.A.(1978): Dermatitis due to formaldehyde-rele asing agents in cosmetic and med icaments. C utis 22 665-664
3. De Groot, A.C . a n d Bos, J .D .(1987): Preservatives in the European standard seri es for
epic utaneous testing. Brit. J. Derm. 116 289-292
4. Habel, U.(1989): Zur Problematik der Kon servierungsmitteliiberempfindlichkeit unter besonderer BerUcksichtig ung einiger fonn aldehydabspalte nder Konservierungsmittel. Dissertation
(A.), Med. Akademie E1furt.
38
BookReview
Series Editor: P. Morganti
2
INTERNATIONAL
EDIEMME
40
Edited By: P. Morganti, F.J .G. Ebling
BookReview
Cosmetic Dermatology
Series Editor: P. Morganti
Volume 2
Every day Problems in Dermatology:
The Cosmetic Connection
Editors: P. Morganti, F.J.G. Ebling
Every day Problems in Dermatology:
The Cosmetic Connection is the second addition to the Cosmetic Dermato/ogy Series
This book is comprised of 41 previously unpublished papers dealing with research in various fields
of cos metic dermato logy. The main themes covered are: inter-relationship between drugs and
cosmetic in the skin ; the efficacy of, and the raction to, cosmetics; cosmeti cs in sport s and work;
cosmeti cs in relation to sexuality and pregnancy; a nd finall y, the interconnection existing between
cos metics and die t. By so comprehensively covering the science of cosmetics, this text is indispensable to those involved in research and development for the cosmetics, toiletries and pharmaceutical
industries. It will also be a great benefit to university and hospital pharmacists and health care professionals e ntrusted with any aspect of skin care.
CONTENTS (Main Chapters)
Psycological as pects of every day cosmetic dermatology (E. Panconesi)
Cosmetic, drugs and common skin disorder (W. Raab)
Percutaneous absorption and lipids of the elderly skin (J. Wepierre)
Mechanism of solar erythema (E. Quencez, P. Agache)
The skin plasticisation effect of a medium chain alpha-hydroxy acid and the use of potentiators (J .C. Hill ,
R.J . White, M.D. Barrai, E. Mignini)
Analytical problems of cosmetic evaluation resulting from EEC ltalian regulatory procedures (L. Gagliardi, A. Amato)
Kathon C.G.: ri sk of sensitization (A.C. De Groot)
Methods for evaluating initant - erylhematogenic activity in cosmetics (A. Se11oli, S. Gio1gini, C. Mrutinelli, M.C. Meli i)
Socia! problems related to perspiration: the cosmetic connection (C. Jacobson)
Barriers creams (L.C. Parish)
Evaluation of a new skin barrier providing water and solvent protection (P. Morganti, S.D. Randazzo)
Cosmetology and sex uality in the history of gynaecology (G. Forleo, M. Fraticelli)
Metabolism of steroids in human s kin (A. Lanzone, A.M. Fulghesu, F.P. Sellante, A. Caruso, S. Mancuso)
The stucture and permeability of the oral mucosa (A. Jarret)
Oral mucosa and dental care problems (E. Benagian)
Vitamins and minerai nutrition in the skin (B. Berra, S. Zoppi, S. Rapelli)
Good manufacturing and quality control practices in the cosmetic industry (F. Pocchiari)
Cosmetology and public health (L.Toti)
400 pages about - Hard-bound
Pri ce: U.S. $ 90.,00 I in Italy L. 120.000
41
J. Appl Cosmetol. 9, X/X-XXIX (January- March 1991)
Announcement
IV INTERNATIONAL MEETING ON COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY
PROGRESS IN COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY:
SCIENCE AND SAFETY
October 30 - November 2 , 1991
Villa MIANI • ROME • ITALY
PRELIMINARYPROGRAM
PROGRAMMA PRELIMINARE
OCTOBER 31 th THURSDAY I GIOVEDI' 31 OTTOBRE
09.00 - Generai co11sideratio11s I Considerazioni generali (C. Jacobson · U.S.A.)
09.30 · Ope11i11g remarks I Note introduttive (P. Morgami · I)
09.45 - Cosme1ic prepara1io11: slale of1/re ari/ I prodotti cosmetici: stato dell'ane
10.00- Safe1y e1·a/11atio11 of cosmelic illgrediellls i111he Europea11 Comm1111i1y a11d in 01/rer c011111ries I Valutazione della sicurezza degli ingredienti CO·
smctici nella CEE e negli altri paesi (N. Loprieno -1)
10.15 - Role of lipids in biologica/ membra11es I Ruolo dei lipidi nelle membrane biologiche (B. Berra ·O
10.30 - Adw111ces in perc111a11eo11s absorp1io11 / L'assorbimento percutaneo secondo le più recenti acquisizioni (W. Shalla - D)
10.45 · Liposomes:f11111re prospecls a11d a/1emative so/111io11s / I liposomi:prospettive future e soluzioni alternative (G.Gregoriades · U.K)
11.00 • Break
11.15 - Pedia1ric cosme1ology: c11rre111a11df11111re1re11ds I La cosmesi della prima età: oggi e domani (C. Jacobson · U.S.A.)
11.30 - Socia/ role <frosmetics in elderly people I Ruolo sociale dei ro;metici nella terza età (A. Tosti - O
11.45 · Cosme1ic derma10/ogy a11d mucous 111e111bra11es I Cosmesi derniatologica e mucose (S. Mancuso - I)
12.00 · EEC cosme1ic i11gredie111s a11d labeli11gI L'etichettatura degli ingredienti cosmetici (De Giuli - O
12.15- Q11ali1y co111rol io pro1ec1 EEC co11s11111er /li controllo qualità a difesa del consumatore (L. Gagliardi - I)
13.00 - 8ru11c/1
SKIN SURFACE AND PERMEATION I CUTE E ASSORBIMENTO
14.00 • Liposomes as 11a111ra/-like 111e111bra11es / l liposomi quali membrane naturali simili
14. 15 - Liposomes as topic carriers: progress worki11g / l liposomi come carrier per uso topico: prospettive e realtà (G. Gregoriades. U.K.)
14.30 - F1111c1io11 a11d s1abiliry ofliposomes as cosme1ic 1•ehicles I Funzione e stabilità dei liposomi come veicoli cosmetici (E. Menegani ·O
14.45 -New biodegradable a11d biocompa1ible capsules /or 1/re cosme1ic i11d11s1y: the collaspheres /Le nuove capsule biodegradabili e biocompatibili per l'industria cosmetica: le collasphere (A.Huc - F)
15.00 · Disc11ssio11 / Discussione
15.30 · The choice of 1•ehicles in cosmetic dermaw/ogy I L'imponanza dei veicoli nella dermatologia cosmetologica (B. James · U.S.A.)
15.45 - Activity of 1•ehicles a11d diff11sio111hro11gh 1/re homy layer I Attività dei veicoli e loro diffusione attraverso lo strato corneo (\V. Shalla . D)
16.00- Ski11 pem1eabili1y in infa111s a11d yo1111g childre11 / Permeabilità cutanea nella prima infanzia e nella pubenà (C. Jacobson - U.S.A.)
16.15 - Ski11 pem1eabi/i1y in elderly peop/e I La perrneabililà cutanea nell'anziano (F. Kerdel Vegas - YV)
16.30 - Permeability of buccal mucosa 111e111bra11es I La permeabilità della mucosa orale (A. Jarret. U.K.)
16.45 • Permeabiliry of vagina/ mucosa surfaces I Permeabilità ed assorbimento della membrana vaginale (S. Mancuso · I)
17.00 · Discussio11 / Discussione
17.15- Break
Announcement
ACTIVE COSMETIC COMPOUNDS FOR ELDERLY SKIN
I PRINCIPI ATTIVI PER LA CUTE INVECCHIATA
17.30 - Phatophisiology of dry ski11a11d1reat111e111 / Patofisiologia e trattamento della cute secca (M. \V. Greaves - U.K.)
17.45 · Topica/ use of reti11oic acid i11 aged a11d stressed ski11 / L'uso topico dell'acido retinoico nella cute invecchiata (W. Raab. A)
18.00 · "Prolonged 1111d co111rolle1l release of cosmetic dermatologie actives with a s11b111icro11ic polymeric la11ice: 11a11ospheres 100•· /
Controllo e realizzazione dei principi attivi cosmetici con latice submicroscopico: nanosphere 100' (J. Caillon. F)
18.15 · Viw111i11 derirmes in aged ski11 / Le vitamine quali principi attivi per l'invecchiamento cutaneo (D. Djerassi - U.S.A.)
18.30 - Ef!ects of col/11ge11 011 ski11 surface I Gli effetti del collagene sulla cute invecchiata
18.45 · Disc11ssio11 /Discussione
20.30 • Be111•e1111e cocktail I Cocktail di benvenuto
NOVEMBER lst FRIDAY I VENERDI' 1 NOVEMBRE
COSMETIC PRESERVATION I LA CONSERVAZIONE DEI PRODOTTI COSMETICI
09.00 - The rote of preserratil'es i11 comrolling microbial co111a111i11atio11 i111roduced i11 the 111a111ifac111re ofcosmetics I Contaminazione batterica e conservanti (E. F. W. Warwick · U.S.A.)
09.15 - Aspects 011 biocide use I Aspetti tecnici sull'uso dei conservanti (K. H. Diehl - D)
09.30 - Parabens today / I parabeni oggi (Kranbar - U.S.A.)
09.45 - Substitwed i111ida:olidi11yl urea com[Jo11111/s / lmidazolidinyl urea e derivati (W. E. Roses - U.S.A.)
10.00 · Food-grade i11gredie111s as presen•atil'es I Conservanti di grado alimentare (J. J. Kabara - U.S.A.)
10.30 - New [Jhospholipids as presen·atives: 011 update I L'uso dei fosfol ipidi come conservanti (J. I. Yablonski, D. Fost - U.S.A.)
10.45 - Skin irri1a1io11 a11d se11siri:mio11 caused by preserratires / Irritazioni e sensibilizzazioni provocate dai conservanti (K. E. Andersen - D)
11.00 - Toxicity of[Jresen·atires I La tossicità dei conservanti (H. F. Kemper. D)
11. 15 - Discussio11 / Discussione
11.30 - Bnmch
13.00 ·Bus IO Casamari (fa111011s gothic dwrch) I Autobus per l'abbazia di Casamari
NOVEMBER 2nà SATURDAY I SABATO 2NOVEMBRE
COSMETIC DISTRIBUTION I LA DISTRIBUZIONE DEI COSMETICI
09.15 - Legai i111p/ica1io11s of selectfre cha1111el distrib111io11 / Problemi giuridici connessi con la distribuzione di canali selettivi (F. Terenzi - 1)
09.30 · Cha1111eli11g distribwio11 of cosmetic producrs i11 /1a/y I La distribuzione dei cosmetici in Italia nei differenti canali (E. Chiaccherini - I)
09.45 · F.O.Fl. direcrion of phar;11acy cosmetic producrs I Orientamenti della F.O.F.l. sui problemi riguardanti il comparto "cosmetici in fannacia" (G. Leopardi)
10.00 - ltalia11 Feder. Farma direcrions 011 dermocosmetics I Orientamenti della Feder. Farrna sul comparto derrnocosmetico (A. Ambreckt -1)
10.15 - Cosmetic market i11plwrmacy:a11a1io11a/ e11q11ire / Il mercato dermocosmetico in fannacia: indagine nazionale UTlFAR (L. Casanova- I)
10.30 - Pharmacy distrib111io11 ofcosmetic products I La distribuzione dei cosmetici in famiacia (Magnanclli - 1)
I0.45 · Disc11ssio11 / Discussione
11.15-Break
LEGAL AND PROFESSIONAL RESPONSABILITIES
RESPONSABILITÀ CIVILE E IMPLICAZIONI LEGALI
11.30 · Legal liability of cosmetic producers IO the public I L1 responsabilità civile del produttore di cosmetici (A. tannini . I)
I I.45 - Legai liability of physicia11s as cosmetic [Jroducts [Jrescribers 10 the public I La responsabilità civile del medico quale prescrittore di cosmetici (M.
Rota Muscardin - O
12.00 - Legal liability of pharmacist as cosmetic producrs dealers to the public I L1 responsabilità civile del farmacista quale distributore (M. Marcheui . I)
12.15 - Misleadi11g and corree/ adverrising I Pubblicità ingannevole e pubblicità corretta (Masi · I)
12.30 · Low prorecrio11 of EEC co11s11111er /La tutela giuridica del consumatore europeo
12.45 - Diswssion I Discussione
13.15 - Bru11c/1
14.45 / I8.00 - Free co1111111111ica1io11s I Comunicazioni libere
Announcement
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PROGRESS IN COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY: SCIENCE AND SAFETY
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Your /ex/ will appear in the hook of abstracr exacrly as you sene/ it and every errar or
impe1fec1ion will be visib/e.
Ultima data di ricevimento per il riassunto: 15 Luglio 1991
Deadline for receipt of abstract: July 15,1991
Rispedire il riassunto a: I Please retum the abstract to:
P. Morganti, Via innocenza XI, 41 - 00165 Roma (ltaly)
NAME OF PRESENTER I NOME DEL RELATORE
Nome/ Name - - - - - - - -- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -- -- -- -Ospedale I Hospital - Organizzazione I Organisation
Indirizzo I Address
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Città I Town - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - Nazione I Country
Telefono I Telephone _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Telex
Telefax
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Announcement
l SrH WORLD CONGRESS OF DERMATOLOGY
Scholarships Available for the 18th World Congress of Dermatology
The 18th World Congress of De rmàtology will take piace in New York City from June l 2-18, 1992.
In an effort to encou rage the pa rticipation of young dermato logists, the Congress will award a
limited number of scholarships, as follows:
De rmatolo2ists from Developini: Countries: Applican ts must be no older than 38 years of age at
the time of the Congress. The scholarship will provide compl imentary registration a nd hotel accommodations (two awardees to a room), and a moderate subsistence allowance. Awards are competitive and are contingent on sponsorship by one's national socie ty. Abstract submission is mandatory.
Obtain further informa tion and appl ication form s from your national society before June 1, 199 1 .
De rmatoloi:ists from Developed Countries: Applicant must be a Resident or Fellow in a full-time
training program. The Scholarshi p will provide complimentary registration and a small subsiste nce
allowance. A letter from the educational or training insti tution va lidating the applicant's status must
be submitted with the app lication form. Abstract submission is mandatory.
Fonns are avai lable from the I 8th World Cong ress Secretari at,
875 Kings Highway, W. Deptford, NJ 08096, USA.
Cali for Abstracts for the 18th World Congress of Dermatology
The I 8th World Congress of Dem1atology Organizing Committee and the In ternational League of
De rmatolog ica! Societies in vite the subm iss ion of abstrac ts for short commun ica tio ns to be
presented at the I 8th World Congress, June l 2- I 8, 1992, New York C ity. Selected abstracts will be
presented in the following sessions:
- Case Presentations - Four-minu te presentations of clinica! cases of exceptional scientific and/or
ed ucational inte rest.
- Contributions to Clinica! and Experimental Dermatoloey
Q.rfil presentations of originai contributions of clinica!, therapeutic or laboratory investigations.
Poster presentations of origina i contri butions to clinica! and laboratory in vestigation which can
be effectively di splayed by ill ustrative materiai (graph s, c harts and tables). Authors are to be
present during specified times for discussion of the posted mate riai.
Abstracts must be submitted on t h e officiai Congress Abstract Reproduction Form a nd
received before August 1, 1991.
Forms and submission guidelines are available from the 18th World Congress Secretariat,
875 Kings Highway, W. De ptford, NJ 08096, USA.
Chiuso in Tipografia: 22 Luglio 1991
Joumal of Applied Cosmctology published quartcrly by INTERNATIONAL EDIEMME, Via Innocenzo XI,
41, 00165 Roma Italy. Direttore responsabile P. Morganti. Direzione, Redazione cd Amministrazione Via
Innocenzo XI, 00165 Roma Italy. Coordinamento all 'c~izionc P. Arcuri. Stampa Edigrafica Aldina s.r.l.,
Via della Massimilla 50, Roma, te!. 6692801-6693099. Progetto grafico cd impaginazione STYLOgrafica
Roma. Spedizione in abbonamento postale gruppo IV(70. Aut. del Trib. di Roma n. 3173/83 dcli' 8-7-83.
MAVIGEN
IDRO
SCHIUMA
MAVIGEN IDROSCHIUMA
trova la sua specifica prescrizione sopratutto per le
pelli grasse ed acneiche che
dopo i trattamenti farmacologici con benzoi! perossido, acido retinoico, antibiotici o acido azelaico hanno bisogno, in genere, di essere
reidratate.
~
mav1
La ricerca scientifica nella dermocosmesi
Mavì Sud S.r.l. - Viale dell'Industria, 1 - 04011 Aprilia (LT)
La giusta soluzione
Ml
man
L ricerca scientifica nella dermoco~mesi
Mavi Sud S.r.l. - Viale dell'Industria, 1 - 04011 Aprilia (LT)