©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Northern Italy FROM THE SNOWY SLOPES OF THE MILKY WAY TO VILLAS FRAMED BY GAZEBOS and mould-breaking art and architecture, northern Italy is as action packed as it is artful. Its mountains, lakes and coastal villages have been luring artists, celebrities and moneyed Mitteleuropeans since the days of the Grand Tour, and it’s easy to see what drew them here: world-class art, an embarrassment of culinary riches, cult wines and a slew of sophisticated cities. While Venice’s city of palaces dazzles and Milan’s Golden Quad rapidly helps to relieve you of your hard-earned cash, you’re never far from a rural hinterland that still moves with the rhythm of the seasons and that seems largely untouched by modern tourism. Alpe di Siusi Europe’s highest alpine pastures, framed by the magnificent Dolomites (Trip 12) DENNIS K JOHNSON/GETTY IMAGES © e # 0 0 4 44 44 44 4 44 G F G4 4 4F 44 44 4F G F G Northern Italy 4 4444 4 44 44 G4 F 444 44 44 4 4 100 km 50 miles Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio To ce SWITZERLAND S R \ Ortles Bormio # (3905m) Sondrio Locarno # \ C 10 Adda ^ # Tirano # \ Lake Gravedona Parco Como Regionale Bellagio # \ degli Orobie Verbania ^ # Valtellinesi V VA A VALLE Monte B ianco ianc a o Bianco ] # Stresa Varese Lago (4810m) (4810m (4 81 ) R \ D' AO AOSTA # ^ # # ^ d'Iseo Lake R Bergamo i # ^ 8 E25 Parc Régional Courmayeur Maggiore Como 11 Aosta #\ # ^ du Massif Issogne E35 Monza A26 A4 des Bauges # Salò \ \ # 7 Parco # Rho ] # Brescia ^ Nazionale \ # # ^ Parc del Gran PIEDMONT # A4 ^ Desenzano National Milan LOMBARDY Paradiso Novara ] # de la Vanoise del Garda Crema A55 # ] ] # Domodossola D \ Cannobio # esia · / · / Ti Susa c in \ # # ] Sestriere E70 · / 4 # ^ 2 # ] Po Alessandria Turin A6 · / / ]# · · / A21 # ^ 1 A21 · / ] # Tortona # ^ A15 · / Camogli Golfo di Genova Levante \ # Parco Regionale 6 La Spezia delle G F Alpi # ^ ‚ ] # Parma Genoa Sestri # \ Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre Imperia # # ] San Remo ] Ventimiglia Cremona # ^ Piacenza # ^ Apuane # \ R Lerici Ligurian Sea Monte Croce (1314m) # Pisa ^ Nice Grand Tour 12–14 Days 1 Gra The classic cultural tour – part pilgrimage, part rite of passage. (p39) Palace Circuit 3–4 Days 2 Savoy The impressive property portfolio of the frivolous Dukes of Savoy. (p55) Piedmont 6 Days 3 Gourmet Bold Barolos, white truffles and Asti spumante put fizz in this food tour. (p63) the Maritime Alps 4 Meandering 7 Days Ski the Milky Way and hike old salt routes in the Gran Paradiso park. (p71) Riviera 4 Days 5 Italian Seaside bastions, palm-fringed promenades, Belle Époque villas. (p79) Cinque Terre 6 Cinematic 5–7 Days Tour maritime vineyards and secret coves to the Gulf of Poets. (p87 ) Cities 7–10 Days 7 Northern Visit grand-slam cultural sites amid the rice paddies of the Po valley. (p97 ) The Graceful Italian Lakes 8 Th 5–7 Days The destination of choice for Goethe, Hemingway and George Clooney. (p109) at Lake Garda 9 A4 Weekend Days The ultimate lakeside tour through vineyards, orchards and olive groves. (p121) 36 08-northern-italy-opener-tr-it.indd 36 9 G F \ # La 1 Oglio G F # ^ a 5 G F # ^ Savona Limone \ R Punta Piemonte # # \ Marguaréis Finale Parc National (2651m) A10 Ligure du Mercantour Monte # \Triora Bignone (1299m) R # ^ MONACO A1 · / Ad da LIGURIA · / Parc Naturel Régional du Luberon Pavia i vi A6 · / # ^ A7 A26 · / · / G F Cuneo o Scr G F Asti Parc Pinerolo Parc E74 Po Racconigi National Naturel \ Monte Viso # Bra des Écrins Regional R (3841m) ] # # \ du Queyras # \ Alba Saluzzo 3 Monte R San Bernardo (1625m) # ^ · / za co Or FRANCE G F · / · / En rS ve · / Ri G 22/11/2012 10:58:45 AM M 44 4 4444 44 44 4 44 44 4 4 444 4 4 44 44 G 44 F 44 4 4 4 44 4 4 G F TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE Brunico # \ Siusi \ # Bolzano ^ # # ] R (3221m) R Vigo di Marmolada (3343m) Fassa FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA Belluno # ] \ Spilimbergo # o isi Av E45 · / Pordenone ] # Riva del Garda ] # Rovereto Bassano del Grappa \ # R Pi av # e ^ \ # Cividale del Friuli # ^ Cormòns · / 7 Padua F G F 13 G # ^ ige Ad Mincio # ^ Po A22 · / ro na Pa Modena ^ # A1 · / 1 Reno F G Po Delta Valle di Comacchio ^ # Bologna · / A14 TUSCANY o Arn Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi, Monte Falterona SAN MARINO e Campigna ^ # Florence Steel a march on Cinque Terre hikers and walk the quiet pathways on the Portofino peninsula, ending with a Spritz at Caffè Excelsior on Trip 6 Adriatic Sea ^ # Ravenna EMILIAROMAGNA Scrovegni Chapel See the Renaissance blossoming through the tears in Giotto’s moving frescoes for the Scrovegni Chapel on Trips 17d Portofino Peninsula CROATIA A13 · / ^ # Ferrara SS14 · / # Trieste ^ ] # Chioggia \ # Este # ^ 14 Aquileia Venice VENETO Mantua SLOVENIA ] # Gorizia \ # \ # ve nz Vicenza Castelfranco Treviso a Veneto # ^ \ Bardolino # Mestre ] # Lake Garda A4 # ^ Verona \ # Udine DON'T MISS \ # Tarvisio Krajnska Gora A23 · / Li Monte 9 Baldo F G (2200m) \ # Cortina Tolmezzo # \ d'Ampezzo # Trento ^ # \ \ Villach # Monte Cristallo La \ # Villa \ # Malè \ # Cima Brenta (3150m) R 12 So ča Bressanone ] # ] # Merano AUSTRIA LE MARCHE of Italy 6 Days a Roof Dare to drive Europe’s highest Alpine pass for the spa on the other side. (p129) d’Aosta 5 Days b Valle Hike the Gran Paradiso and ascend Monte Bianco, Europe’s highest peak. (p137 ) Grande Strada delle Dolomiti 7–10 Days c Gra Admire the rocky amphitheatre of the rose-coloured Dolomites. (p145) Venetian V Sojourn 4–5 Days d AGlide along the Brenta Canal to splendid Truffles Strike gastronomic gold in Alba, and dine on prized white truffles on Trip 3 Terme Merano Dip in and out of hot and cold pools amid stunning mountain scenery, just as Austrian royals, and Kafka, have done before you on Trip a Walking the Alta Vie Walk on the roof of the Dolomites through Alpine meadows strewn with wildflowers on Trip c frescoed villas. (p157 ) to Tarvisio 7 Days e Trieste From Italo-Austrian Trieste zigzag through vineyards to Alpine Tarvisio. (p169) 37