BUYINGGUIDE
DECEMBER
2014
IN THIS
MONTH’S GUIDE
2
CHAMPAGNE
19
FRENCH CRÉMANT
20
BURGUNDY
29
VENETO
34
ITALIAN SPARKLING WINES
ELLINOR HALL/JOHNER/MEDIA BAKERY
40 GERMANY
Get ready to pop
some bubbly
45 PORTUGAL
55 SPAIN
63 ARGENTINA
66
CALIFORNIA
78 OREGON
86
SPIRITS
88 BEERS
FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM
WINEMAG.COM | 1
BUYINGGUIDE
CHAMPAGNE
It’s holiday time—break out the bubbles
I
f there is one time in the year when bubbly is
the Salon). But you needn’t exclusively look to
a must, it is the holiday season. Whether you
vintage Champagnes for high quality—of the 70
celebrate Thanksgiving, Christmas, Hanuknonvintage Champagnes reviewed for this issue,
kah or even just a few days off work, ’tis the
more than half scored 90 points or more. And
season to pop a cork... or two or three.
they’re reasonably priced, as well, with options
That’s why every December, the Buystarting at $35.
ing Guide focuses on sparkling
Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe
wines from around the world,
assesses the latest metodo clasWe cover the tried- sico sparklers from Italy. From
with reviews of more than 200
and-true classics, stunning Franciacortas to Trenbubbly beauties in this issue.
We cover the tried-and-true
to bubblies and trendy Prosecco
but also some
classics, but also some outsideCol Fondo, we’ve got you covered
outside-thethe-box options—like French
with diverse Italian options.
box options—like
crémant and California sparIn the New World, our CalFrench crémant
klers—that won’t break the
ifornia tasting team focuses on
bank.
and California spar- domestic bubblies worth checkFor Champagne, we take
klers—that won’t ing out, as well as Pinot Noirs
a look at the latest releasto complement this month’s
break the bank.
es of both vintage and nonfeature on the variety. Reviews
vintage selections. The
from Germany, Portugal, Spain,
iconic Salon Champagne house earned
Argentina and Oregon round the issue out.
a perfect score with its 2002 Le Mesnil
But, as always, be sure to check out our comBlanc de Blancs Brut, only the second Champlete database, with thousands more reviews—
pagne to be awarded 100 points by Wine
sparkling, still and everything in between—at
Enthusiast (Krug’s 1998 Clos du Mesnil was
buyingguide.winemag.com.
the first, and at almost four times the price of
Cheers!
—Lauren Buzzeo
VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE
100
Salon 2002 Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs
Brut (Champagne). The 35th and most
recent vintage of Salon since the house was founded
in 1905 is memorable and magnificent. Made only
from Chardonnay grown in the Grand Cru village of
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, it combines intense minerality,
a crisp textured core and the beginnings of maturity.
The depths of this wine, with its layers of fruit and
steeliness, are superb. Even after 12 years, it still
needs to age further. Drink from 2018. Vineyard
Brands. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $480
96
Pol Roger 2000 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill
Brut (Champagne). Dedicated to the memory of the British wartime Prime Minister, who regularly drank Pol Roger, this is always a superlative
Champagne. This 2000, at 14 years old, has devel-
2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
oped a pale gold color and toastiness. That intensifies the mature flavors and rich texture, while allowing the tight mousse and acidity to keep a sense
of structure. It will age much further, although it is
perfectly ready to drink now. Frederick Wildman &
Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $305
95
Charles Heidsieck 2005 Brut Millésimé
(Champagne). Still very young, this holds
great potential. Rich, full-bodied and densely structured, it is a wine first, sparkling second. Ripe apple
and peach flavors partner with a strongly mineral
texture. It needs to age more in bottle, so drink from
2016. Remy Cointreau USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $125
95
Laurent-Perrier 2004 Cuvée Alexandra
Grande Cuvée Rosé (Champagne). First produced in the 1987 vintage to celebrate the marriage
of owner Bernard de Nonancourt’s eldest daughter,
this bottling is now mature. Ripe, it still retains
plenty of red fruits while also allowing the toasty
character to show through. It’s a rosé that calls for
food, a rich and balanced wine that is just perfect to
drink now. Laurent-Perrier US. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $350
95
Louis Roederer 2008 Vintage Brut (Champagne). A deliciously ripe wine, full of fruit
as well as a great mineral texture. It completely expresses the exceptional 2008 with all its structure.
Still young, it’s all fruit and freshness that promise serious bottle aging. Drink this complex, serious wine from 2017. Maisons Marques & Domaines
USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $80
95
Louis Roederer 2006 Cristal Brut Rosé
(Champagne). Still so fresh, this is fruity,
yes, but it has such a depth of flavor with its red
fruits the starting point for an adventure in tastes
and textures. Produced from Roederer’s own vineyards, it is ready to drink, although it will age in
bottle for many years. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $470
95
Moët & Chandon 2006 Grand Vintage Brut
(Champagne). This offers great balance between the freshest fruit and toasty maturity. That
poise gives this impressive Champagne a tension, a
high wire act that works superbly. It is rich, full of
fruit but also with great depth. It will certainly age,
so drink now or hold through 2019. Moët Hennessy
USA. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $60
95
Pol Roger 2004 Extra Cuvée de Réserve Vintage Brut (Champagne). Just approaching
maturity, this rich wine is sumptuous and complex.
It has intense fruitiness, with apple and grapefruit
flavors that are followed by a tight texture as well as
the first signs of toastiness. It has plenty of life yet.
Drink now–2024. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.
Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $114
95
Pommery 2002 Cuvée Louise Brut (Champagne). This well-aged wine from a top
Champagne vintage is just now ready to drink after
12 years. It has a touch of toast, but it’s the rich,
complex texture and fine structure that set it apart.
It’s not a dry wine, it feels soft. It is so well integrated, elegant with hints of apples, a layer of minerality and still-fresh final acidity. Vranken Pommery
America. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $150
94
Bruno Paillard 1999 N.P.U. Brut (Champagne). N.P.U., Neo Plus Ultra, the summit
of Paillard’s range, is a blend from four Grands Crus
vineyards. Half-and-half Pinot Noir and Chardonnay give a wonderfully rounded, mature wine that
Continued on Page 13
The Wine Enthusiast
Buying Guide
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release
and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine
Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular
contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director/Senior
Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner,
Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Andrew
Hoover, and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European
Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing
Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean ­Sullivan in
Washington.
If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters.
Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman
and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo.
Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its
suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us
by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content
cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices
are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.
95
La Chablisienne 2011 Château Grenouilles
Grand Cru (Chablis). Château Grenouilles is
crafted from a portion of the Grenouilles Grand Cru
Vineyard that is wholly owned by La Chablisienne.
It produces its flagship wine: dense, powerful and
concentrated, with a strong mineral and racy texture. It’s destined for a long life thanks to its woody
richness and tight acidity. Drink from 2018. Blasons
de Bourgogne Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $95
94
Dr. Loosen 2012 Erdener Treppchen Riesling
Auslese (Mosel). Lanolin and honeycomb
lend a mineral slick to sweet peach and honey flavors in this lavishly rich Riesling. It’s marmalade
sweet on the palate, yet brisk in lemon acidity that
stretches out the finish. It’s delicious now, but those
mineral complexities will shine from 2018 on. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $64
TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS
All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind.
Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8
samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight
to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never
the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible,
products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.
ABOUT THE SCORES
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product.
Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying
tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.
Classic 98–100:
Superb 94–97:
Excellent 90–93:
Very Good 87–89:
Good 83–86:
Acceptable 80–82:
The pinnacle of quality.
A great achievement.
Highly recommended.
Often good value; well recommended.
Suitable for everyday consumption;
often good value.
Can be employed in casual, lesscritical circumstances.
Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80
points) are not reviewed.
SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS
Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price
with unique qualities that merit special attention.
Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to
reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation
does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but
that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In
general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.
Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in
relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for
determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less.
SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW
Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/
contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review
Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast.
net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make
every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there
is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or
that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be
accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may
be downloaded from our Web site.
LABELS
Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given
the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and
printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information
on label ­purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax
866.896.8786; or email [email protected].
Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at
buyingguide.winemag.com
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95
Masi 2010 Costasera (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Ripe dark fruit, nutmeg,
clove and tobacco aromas lead the nose on this bold
and balanced wine. The rich palate delivers black
plum, raisin, cinnamon, black pepper and licorice
supported by velvety tannins and fresh acidity.
Combining elegance and power, it boasts wonderful
depth. Drink 2015–2025. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $64
95
Schramsberg 2006 J. Schram (North Coast).
This is a well-aged, reserve-style sparkling
wine that is one of California’s best. It delivers
abundant and distinctive flavors without losing its
cool. The wine has attractively smoky, toasty and
perfectly mature fruit aromas, and unfolds into
complex, spicy and appealingly earthy flavors. The
texture is plush and the finish long and smooth.
Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 12.2%
Price: $110
Elk Cove 2012 La Bohème Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). A candidate for the best La
Bohème ever, this low-yield effort, from 27-yearold vines, opens with a lovely nose of rose petals,
raspberry compote and a whiff of pepper. Deeply
detailed berry flavors glide into a long finish veined
with nougat and caramel, from 10 months in 50%
new French oak. The elegance and length are impressive. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
94
Finca El Origen 2010 PHI Single Vineyard
(Uco Valley). This Malbec-led blend offers
a smooth bouquet that’s ripe and stately, with coconut, tobacco and marzipan notes. A round, pure,
full-bodied palate is perfectly balanced, while
blackberry, cassis and chocolate flavors turn smoky,
spicy and peppery on the finish, which is long and
superbly built. Drink through 2019. Carolina Wine
Brands USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $70
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Joseph Phelps 2012 Quarter Moon Vineyard
Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
This sophisticated, pretty Pinot Noir is brilliant in
exotic cherry, raspberry and earth. Bright and lush
on the palate, the tannins are firmly structured and
nicely rendered with a twinge of sweet tobacco and
a subtle power that builds on the finish. Enjoy now
or let it sit in the cellar through 2020–2022. Cellar
Selection. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $75
Monte del Frà 2010 Tenuta Lena di Mezzo
(Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Black
plum, cedar, exotic spice, blue flower, crushed
blackberry and freshly ground black pepper are
some of the sensations conveyed by this smooth,
full-bodied wine. Fresh and balanced, it has a polished texture thanks to velvety tannins that support
the juicy, dense palate. Drink 2015–2020. Vision
Wine & Spirits. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $60
Mooney Family 2012 Boekenoogen Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Much
darker than many other wines of the appellation,
this offers a deep, nuanced nose of clove, black soil,
tobacco, white sage, violet and deep purple juice.
Soil and pine sap jump out on the palate, where
herbs and blackberry swirl into a complex, powerful wine that has tannic structure to drink well into
2020. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $68
4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
Bodega Catena Zapata 2010 Nicolás Catena
Zapata (Mendoza). Spicy, leathery, gritty
notes share the nose with ripe black-fruit scents
on this blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25%
Malbec. At this stage, the palate feels narrow and
pinched but not miserly. Flavors of spicy black­
berry, briary plum and cassis finish with smooth yet
strong tannins and a note of licorice. Drink 2015–
2022. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $135
Byron 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley).
Berry fruit leather, raspberry iced tea and
dark spices weave together on the intriguing nose of
this wine, which is as good if not better than similar
wines from the appellation charging twice the price.
Roasted figs and black cardamom rise on the palate, yet the wine remains light on its feet. Editors’
Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
Chamisal Vineyards 2012 Estate Bottled Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). Wildly expressive
aromas include maple syrup-laced chamomile tea,
root beer extract, wild raspberry and menthol. The
palate continues the excellent array: red fruits with
oregano, thyme, even basil, some sanguine flavors,
some coffee. It would be a perfect companion to
roasted pork or turkey, or anything that needs some
extra spice. —M.K.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $40
FEL 2012 Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Big but well-balanced, this offers a deep, dark garnet color and slightly smoky,
toasty aromas. A richly textured mouthfeel supports ripe, black plum and cherry flavors. It has a
sophisticated and tasty oak influence, full body, fine
tannins and layers of spice and fruit that linger long
on the finish. —J.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $65
Ferrari 2002 Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore (Trento). Italy’s most iconic sparkler,
this is made entirely from Chardonnay and aged on
its lees for at least 10 years. Layers of flavors include
yeasty sensations of baked bread, pastry cream,
honey, vanilla, juicy pear and candied lemon peel. It
has depth and complexity, with an ultrafine mousse
that enhances the creamy texture. Drink through
2020. Palm Bay International. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $130
Fess Parker 2012 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Santa Maria Valley). The late actorturned-vintner’s family keeps producing solid
wines, including this bottling that offers earthy
scents of beet juice and clove. The flavors are pomegranate-driven, with cardamom and allspice making the wine memorable and lasting on the finish.
—M.K.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $55
93
José Maria da Fonseca 2011 Domini Plus
(Douro). This is a dense wine, with mint
aromas and dark, brooding tannins. Black plum and
berry fruits are both rich and tight, with a strong
mineral texture. It brings out the hard soil of the
Douro and also the heat in the valley. It does need
to age, so drink from 2018. Palm Bay International.
Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
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Joseph Phelps 2012 Pastorale Vineyard Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). An
estate-grown Pinot Noir from the wilds of Freestone, this wine delivers in high acidity and perfumed aromatics that are highlighted by violet and
sandalwood. The taste leans towards tart cherry
and strawberry. Medium in weight, it’s a structured
wine, with just the right amount of heft and oak on
the finish. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $75
93
Lynmar 2012 Quail Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). There’s a surprising element of power to this Pinot Noir. Intense in
dark cherry cola, clove and nutmeg, it offers a pronounced finish of wintery cardamom and caramel.
The body is medium weight and the tannins smooth
and silky. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $60
93
Lynmar 2012 Quail Hill Vineyard Summit Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Tense and
full-bodied, Summit is from all Calera clone vines
that deliver seductive elegance and earthiness.
Cranberry and red currant follow aromatics of herb,
dark cherry and classic Russian River cola spice. All
the flavors develop further in the glass. —V.B.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $70
93
Schramsberg 2010 Brut Rosé (North Coast).
You can taste the craftsmanship in this
beautiful wine. The color is a brilliant light copper,
the aromas and flavors remind you that the wine is
made from 75% Pinot Noir, with cherry and cinnamon notes delicately coming through. A hint of
fresh baked bread comes out on the palate and stays
on the finish. Very tasty, and elegant in style. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $43
93
Schramsberg 2010 Crémant Demi-Sec (Napa
Valley). This proves that sparkling wine
does not have to be bone-dry to be sophisticated.
Although moderately sweet, it is complex in aroma,
elegant in texture and balance, rich in flavor and
long on the finish. An appealing fresh-bread aroma
leads to rich poached-pear flavors. This will be great
with an after-dinner cheese course. Editors’ Choice.
—J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $39
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Lynmar 2012 Monastery Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This inaugural vintage of
Monastery shows a complex intermingling of herb
and briny cheese rind along with soft and generous Asian spice and brambly blackberries. The
savory characteristics persist into black tea and
subtle black pepper, all the while accented by justbloomed rose. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $70
Mooney Family 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia
Highlands). Inviting aromas of strawberryvanilla chiffon, cinnamon and a hint of anise introduce this richly layered wine from the winemaker
behind Chateau Margene, who sources these grapes
from high up on Monte Nero. It’s thick and creamy
on the palate, with deep flavors of black licorice,
beet juice and pomegranate reduction sauce. —M.K.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $52
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Sextant 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). A unique and rich nose of clove, beet
juice, freshly turned earth and wet chalkboard lead
this wine. It’s soft and peppery on the palate at first,
with raspberry fruit, strong spice and excellent
acidity. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
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Simonnet-Febvre 2012 Montée de Tonnerre
Premier Cru (Chablis). This is a floral, steely
wine that is developing delicious, refreshing fruitiness. Firm structure gives the wine density as well
as ripe fruits. Lemongrass and touches of spice add
complexity. It needs aging; drink from 2017. Louis
Latour Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
92
Altocedro 2012 Reserva La Consulta Vineyard
Malbec (Uco Valley). Inky, black aromas of
asphalt, licorice and shoe polish hit hard, and the
alcohol is immediately evident. This is gigantic in
the mouth and carries some burn, but flavors of coffee, chocolate cake and wild berry are exotic and finish firm and generous, with multiple layers. Drink
this ripe Malbec through 2018. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $34
93
Simonnet-Febvre 2012 Vaillons Premier Cru
(Chablis). Rich and dense, this is full of ripe
apple and lemon juice flavors. It’s supercharged
with acidity that shoots right through the fruitiness
and gives a tight, crisp character. Delicious now, but
it will be better in 2016. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
Byron 2012 Nielson Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). A muskiness is present on
the nose of this wine from Santa Barbara County’s
first commercial vineyard, along with fruitier aspects of strawberry-boysenberry tart. It’s fruitforward on the palate, yet cinnamon toast and cedar
give it a more serious edge as well. —M.K.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $36
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Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV 20 Years Old Baco
Imperial Amontillado (Jerez). Caramel, toffee, roasted nut and citrus aromas are prominent.
A buttery mouthfeel gets a boost from vital acidity,
while semisour, direct flavors of apricot and persimmon are offset by warm nuttiness. Toasted nut
and sautéed mushroom flavors control the finish,
which is a mile long. CIV/USA. —M.S.
abv: 19.5%
Price: $80
93
Tantara 2012 Zotovich Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). Light and a bit cloudy in appearance, this wine begins with a nose of wet slate
and raspberry. Next comes a flavor of cherry tomato
sauce that’s combined with stewed spices of clove,
anise and dried orange peel. Layered, interesting
and complex. —M.K.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $70
Elk Cove 2012 Five Mountain Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Solid and substantial, this
single-vineyard wine has real meat on its bones,
both figuratively and literally, as it carries some
savory notes along with ripe blackberry fruit. The
acid-tannin balance is picture-perfect, and though
sturdy and ripe, it conveys an impression of grace
and elegance. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $60
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Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Élite Oloroso (Jerez). A lot of toffee, almond and heady richness oozes off the nose on this dry oloroso. In the
mouth, it’s fresh and pointed, with nothing heavy
or sticky. Flavors of caramel, kettle corn, salt, brine
and white pepper finish mellow and not the least bit
cloying. CIV/USA. —M.S.
abv: 18%
Price: $25
6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
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Fess Parker 2012 Ashley’s Pinot Noir (Sta.
Rita Hills). This age-worthy wine smells like
the shady side of a mountain, with black olive notes
and roasted fennel alongside cedar-spiced strawberries and brambly berries. Both firm tannins and
pungent acidity fuel the palate, with cherry, raspberry and slightly bitter espresso. Drink 2020–
2025. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $50
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Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Dubl + (Campania). Made entirely with native grape Greco,
this sparkler from southern Italy features aromas
of lemon blossom, chamomile and yeasty notes of
bread crust. The creamy palate delivers nectarine,
citrus, lemon cream pie, honey and mineral alongside an elegant mousse and crisp acidity. Palm Bay
International. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $44
92
Fulcrum 2012 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sonoma Coast). Gap’s Crown remains
a magical site for Pinot producers and Fulcrum does
justice to it, providing a subtle entry of soft oak on
the nose before letting it open further into dark,
brambly berry and earth. The backbone is strong
and structured, and the finish is long and soft, with
an ideal seasoning of exotic Mediterranean spice
and herb that linger fully and invite one in for more.
Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $60
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Finca Sophenia 2012 Synthesis Malbec (Tupungato). Concentrated berry and mossy
aromas are inviting and introduce a fresh palate
that rolls comfortably along. Black fruit, spice, herb
and licorice flavors finish minty, spicy and long. This
wine is from the Tupungato region, and it shows:
It’s balanced and herbal, but also loaded with fruit.
The Country Vintner-Craft and Estate. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
Franz Keller 2012 Schwarzer Adler Pinot Noir
(Baden). Sweet spice and dried lavender
accent blackberry and cherry aromas on this lush,
lavish Pinot Noir. It’s rich in body and fruit, but nuanced by shades of granite and dried leaves, as well
as a nervy streak of acidity. Supple and warm on the
palate, it finishes with a fringe of soft, delicate tannins. Schmitt-Söhne USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
Laetitia 2010 Cuvée M Sparkling Wine (Arroyo Grande Valley). Laetitia’s finest reserve
bottling of sparkling wine rises to the challenge in
this vintage, with bright aromas of fresh pears, challah bread and cherimoya. The palate offers tropical
touches of guava, with elements of soda and lime
pith grounding the bubbly into a classic style.
—M.K.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
Lucienne 2012 Smith Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Santa Lucia Highlands). A heady swirl of
aromas ranging from earthy red iron to hard cinnamon candy and violet flowers emerge in this wine
sourced from the historic Smith Vineyard. The flavors, which arrive on a silky palate, start with dark
chocolate, root beer extract and lots of geologic influence before hitting raspberry fruit. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
Mercy 2010 Cedar Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Arroyo Seco). Scents of pine pitch, tomato,
smashed kalamata olive and wild berry combine for
a clove-soaked punch experience. Spice hits the palate hard, with oregano, thyme, sagebrush and more
pine, set against strong tannins as well. Lay this one
down for additional development and maturity, and
try after 2018. —M.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $38
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Tedeschi 2009 Capitel Monte Olmi Riserva
(Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas of underbrush, porcini mushroom, scorched
earth and prune lead the nose on this full-bodied
wine. The concentrated palate offers blueberry
extract and black plum, while notes of mocha and
black pepper add depth. It’s still young, with big,
chewy tannins and enough fresh acidity to age another decade or more. Drink 2015–2024. Dreyfus,
Ashby & Co. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $105
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Tedeschi 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella.
Earthy and structured, this opens with
aromas of wet soil, porcini mushroom, leafy underbrush and raisin. On the palate, notes of bitter
dark chocolate and nutmeg add depth to the stewed
prune and black cherry flavors. It’s tightly framed
between firm tannins and surprisingly fresh acidity.
Drink 2015–2025. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $60
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Thralls 2012 Bucher Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). Made in small quantities, this Pinot is light in color and gorgeously
rendered in earthy, forested notes of Bing cherry
and strawberry. Lean and buoyant in acidity, it was
given 30% new oak, providing subtle depth and
complexity without masking the wine’s balance of
fruit and earth. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
Troon 2011 Old Vine Meritage (Applegate
Valley). The blend of this wine includes all
five traditional Bordeaux varieties—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit
Verdot—mostly from 1970s plantings. It’s light in
color, with appealing notes of licorice, cedar and
cherry. The palate is restrained and elegant, with
enough structure to benefit from some additional
bottle aging. Best after 2017. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
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Au Contraire 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
Light and spicy, this hails from cool-climate
sites. It is exhilarating in cinnamon and clove, with
a structured core of wild strawberry and a finish of
fennel. The aromas of violet that waft forward on
the nose are incredibly inviting, as is the wine’s
silky texture. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $30
8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
Bailly-Lapierre 2008 Vive-la-Joie Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). A classic blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this has a steely texture,
fresh acidity and lively flavors of sliced apple and
citrus with a tangy orange zest texture. It is bright
and a bit taught now, so give it a little time to harmonize; try in 2015. Ruby Wines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $33
Bodega Catena Zapata 2012 High Mountain
Vines Malbec (Mendoza). This is quintessential Argentine Malbec. Aromas of roasted black
fruits and smoke transition to a toasty, oaky palate
with a spectrum of flavors ranging from herbal to
jammy berry. In between are notes of tobacco, spice
and molasses. Drink now through 2018. Winebow.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
Ca’ dei Zago 2012 Dosaggio Zero (Prosecco
di Valdobbiadene). Made from 80-year-old
Glera vines that have never been doused with herbicides or pesticides, this boasts an enticing floral
fragrance of jasmine and honeysuckle. The elegant,
reserved palate has a pristine quality, delivering
green apple, lemon zest, nectarine, pastry cream,
herb and mineral alongside a fine perlage. It finishes
crisp and clean. Jenny and François Selections. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $30
Calista 2012 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley).
Everything feels balanced in this ripe—not
overripe—Pinot Noir. It smells like plump black
cherry and blackberry, tastes rich but crisp, has
firm tannins and acidity for structure, and a long,
lingering finish. With medium body, a velvety texture and flavor complexity, this is the complete Pinot package. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Bread & Butter 2012 Mission Ranch Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Arroyo Seco). This very affordable
wine from the Gregory Ahn portfolio begins with
clean notes of blackberry juice, black iced tea and
graphite. It’s spicy, bright and juicy once sipped,
proving very refreshing, and a great example of the
stripped-down wine everyone talks about making.
Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $20
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Citari 2009 Brut 36 (Lugana). Creamy and
fresh, this sparkling Lugana shows real class,
starting with its floral aromas of lemon blossom and
stone fruit. The crisp palate delivers green apple,
peach and yeasty bread crust alongside a refined
perlage and bright acidity. Noble Harvest, LLC.
—K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
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Ferrari 2007 Perlé (Trento). Made from 100%
Chardonnay, this opens with aromas of apricot, hazelnut and citrus. The bright palate delivers
white peach, lemon zest and a note of just-baked
vanilla cookies alongside accents of cinnamon and
nut. Small, continuous bubbles give an elegant texture. Palm Bay International. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $38
Ferrari 2006 Riserva Lunelli (Trento). Freshly
baked bread, toasted hazelnut, yellow apple,
ginger, subtle oak and vanilla are some of the sensations conveyed by this sophisticated sparkler.
Made from 100% Chardonnay, it boasts a remarkably refined mousse and bright acidity. It also has
great length and a crisp, dry finish. Palm Bay International. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $59
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Fess Parker 2011 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills).
There’s a wild array of aromas to this appellation blend, including wild mint and huckleberries.
It’s bright red fruit at first sip, then the wine downshifts into cloves, wet asphalt and anise. A direct
but clean and very appealing selection, ready for
enjoyment now. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $30
Franz Keller 2012 Franz Anton Schwarzer Adler
Pinot Noir (Baden). A delicate spray of violet lingers from start to finish on this lively Pinot
Noir, melding into flavors of red cherries and berries, toast and granite. Brisk in acidity yet supple
in tannins and mouthfeel, it’s an elegant, nuanced
wine that may surprise Pinot Noir drinkers outside
of Germany. Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $42
Gehricke 2012 Pinot Noir (Los Carneros). A
new entrant into the world of fine Carneros
Pinot Noir, Gehricke is named for a prominent road
in the area. The wine is perfumed in fresh gardenia
and sassafras, with grippy and exotic overtones of
dark cherry and spice throughout. —V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
Laetitia 2009 Brut Coquard Sparkling Wine
(Arroyo Grande Valley). This tribute to the
winery’s wooden basket presses begins with a nose
of raw dough, lemon rind and a wet gravel minerality. It’s a very evenly spaced wine once sipped, walking a balance between citrus and yeast, yet not going
overboard with either. —M.K.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
Martin Ray 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir (Green
Valley). Light-bodied and yet offering a depth
of complexity, this is resplendent in rhubarb and
spicy anise, layered and textured in silky waves of
fleshy flavor. A well balanced and approachable selection that’s enjoyable now. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $40
Redhawk 2012 Redhawk Estate Pinot Noir
(Eola-Amity Hills). A superb value, this estate-grown Pinot brings dense fruit flavors of raspberry and cherry, sourced from Dijon clones. Firm
and slightly high-toned, it spent 17 months in onethird new oak, resulting in baking-spice notes that
unfold on the finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $22
Rotari 2006 Flavio Riserva Brut (Trento). Citrus, peach and toasted aromas lead the nose
on this creamy sparkler. Made entirely with Chardonnay, the palate delivers candied lemon zest, mature Golden Delicious apple and apricot brightened
by fresh acidity. It finishes on a ginger note. Prestige
Wine Imports Corp. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $32
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Simonnet-Febvre 2012 Fourchaume Premier
Cru (Chablis). Ripe and creamy in apple and
pear fruitiness, this is cut by just the right amount
of acidity. It’s balanced, with fruit and and bright
steeliness working well together. Drink from 2016.
Louis Latour Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
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Breathless NV Brut (North Coast). Tempting fruit and spice aromas come up with
the finely textured bubbles. The flavors are layered,
intricate and rich, suggesting red cherries, crisp
apples, cinnamon and more. A light salmon color
makes this look like a rosé but it’s not labeled as
such. It’s generous, complex and delicious. —J.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
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Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2011 Scharzhofberger Brut Riesling (Mosel). Whiffs of
smoke, earth, pollen and spice add nuance to fresh
pear and apple on this vivacious Riesling sparkling.
Rich, creamy mousse fills the mouth, with penetrating lemon and lime flavors. The finish caps off
decadently with a spray of white flowers and honey.
Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $30
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Ca’ dei Zago 2013 Col Fondo (Prosecco).
Here’s a Prosecco with real personality. Left
to finish fermentation in the bottle on its lees and
made without any added dosage, it displays a slightly cloudy appearance from fine sediment deposited
at the bottom, which gives it another dimension.
Pure flavors include tart green apple, lime, white
peach and kiwi, with a hint of lemon pastry. It’s balanced in mouthwatering acidity and finishes bonedry. Williams Corner Wine. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 11%
Price: $20
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Bodegas Corral 2008 Altos de Corral Barrel Fermented (Rioja). Initially this smells
toasty to the point of charred, but with airing the
nose settles on oak, black fruit and lightly stemmy
red-berry scents. This feels full and good, with
resolved tannins that don’t bite. Flavors of black
fruits and coconut oak finish strong and deep. This
can last until 2025, maybe longer. Vintage Wines
Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $32
10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
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Ferrari NV Rosé (Trento). From one of Trento’s leading wineries, this salmon-colored
wine made from Pinot Nero and Chardonnay opens
with aromas of rose, red berry and a whiff of nut
paste. The palate displays more Pinot Nero, with
wild cherry, strawberry and graphite flavors alongside a vibrant perlage and brisk acidity. Palm Bay
International. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
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Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium 2012 Fritz
Willi Riesling (Mosel). Earthy aromas of soil
and petrol blow off to reveal prettier notes of yellow
cherry and honeycomb on this elegant, delicately
nuanced Riesling. Dry in style yet delicate in body, it
balances lush stone-fruit flavor with elegant streaks
of lime and crushed minerals. Schmitt-Söhne USA.
—A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $17
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Calista 2012 The Coast Range Pinot Noir
(California). This is plush and tasty, with
lots of fresh, ripe fruit flavors verging on sweet, but
it also has great acidity and appetizing tannins to
rein in all that flavor and achieve balance. The flavors resemble raspberry, ripe red cherry and a touch
of cinnamon and nutmeg. It’s medium to full bodied, dry and finishes with a nice tartness. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
Gary Farrell 2012 Russian River Selection
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). There
are equal parts strawberry and earth in this Pinot,
sourced from the who’s who of vineyard sites in
Russian River, including Toboni, Hallberg, Floodgate, Rochioli and Bacigalupi. The components
come together in mesmerizing ways, making for a
balanced and restrained Pinot that’s fresh in strawberry and cherry as well as seasonings of herb and
cinnamon spice, building power as it goes. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
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Gloria Ferrer NV Blanc de Noirs (Carneros).
Small in production and clearly defined from
Carneros, this Blanc de Noirs blends 92% Pinot Noir
with 8% Chardonnay to great effect. Pretty in peach
color, the intense flavors are a combination of freshcut herb and strawberry kirsch. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
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Landmark 2012 Overlook Pinot Noir (San Luis
Obispo-Sonoma-Monterey). This is a soft
and intense Pinot Noir from three different appellations that’s affordable and approachable. It’s wellmade, with earth, candied citrus and Bing cherry
notes intermixed with hints of anise and subtle oak.
—V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25
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Martín Berdugo 2009 Reserva (Ribera del Duero). This reserva from a warm year smells
like crushed rocks, clay, wood smoke and spiced berry fruits. The palate is rubbery and tannic but bold,
while oaky, roasted flavors of spiced black fruits
and toast finish lightly baked and chocolaty. Drink
through 2018. Wineco Corp. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
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Matsu 2011 El Viejo (Toro). Aromas of black
cherry, blackberry, road tar and bacon are
masculine and dark. This is tannic and wide on
the palate, with smoky flavors of country ham, bacon, raw oak and roasted black fruits. Hickory and
smoked-meat notes dominate the finish on this burly
Toro. Best from 2016 through 2020. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $49
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San Simeon 2012 Pinot Noir (Monterey). This
smells like a cherry crumble pie that’s been
heavily hit with cinnamon and other brown spices
and served on slate. It dances across the palate with
hearty spice, very vibrant fruit, cola and acidity that
carries from beginning to end. —M.K.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $25
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Vistalba 2012 Corte C Estate Bottled (Mendoza). Bold berry, leather and rubbery aromas
show a minerally side. This is a big Malbec-driven
blend with nice layering and structure. The flavor
profile features reduced, roasted black-fruit flavors
along with hints of herbs and leaf. The finish is generally smooth and long, with a pinch of heat. Drink
through 2017. Wine Spoken Here. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $18
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Lost Canyon 2011 Morelli Lane Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). Here is an austere Pinot Noir that’s both elegant and high-toned.
The flavors mix black cherry and blueberry, while the
finish is blithely earthy and herbal. A nice choice for
mealtimes of an equally elegant nature, or an easy
lunch of BLTs. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $45
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Piper-Heidsieck NV Brut (Champagne). The
style of Piper-Heidsieck’s nonvintage Champagne is getting more and more refined. It is drier
than in the past while also full of ripe white fruits.
There is a tight structure, a hint of toast from bottle age and fresh acidity at the end. Ready to drink.
Remy Cointreau USA. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $38
Condes de Albarei 2013 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Green apple, peach and a touch of saline
define the nose of this wine. It’s fresh in feel, like
drinking nectarine juice. Flavors of nectarine, green
plum, peach and lime finish clean and minerally,
with refreshing acidity. CIV/USA. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $16
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Rotari NV Brut (Trento). This well-priced
sparkler opens with aromas of toast, yellow
apple, nut butter and a hint of honey. On the palate,
fine bubbles and crisp acidity balance the pear, citrus zest and roasted walnut flavors. Prestige Wine
Imports Corp. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
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Schmitt Söhne 2013 Thomas Schmitt Private
Collection Estate Bottled Kabinett Riesling
(Mosel). Smoked nuts and crushed mineral notes
accent lemon and lime on this straightforward yet
tasty off-dry Riesling. On the palate, pink-grapefruit
and lychee flavors are mouth quenching and juicy,
lingering long with a fringe of astringent lemon zest.
Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I.
abv: 9%
Price: $16
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Pata Negra 2013 Verdejo (Rueda). A slightly
prickly nose that offers hints of green herbs
and cactus sets up the citrusy palate, brimming
with grapefruit, orange and green-herb flavors. The
finish is shear and citrusy, with cleansing acidity.
CIV/USA. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
BEST BUYS
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Rotari NV Rosé (Trento). A blend of 75%
Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay, this conveys a subtle fragrance of rose, apple and a whiff of
toasted hazelnut. The savory palate offers Marasca
cherry and strawberry alongside a note of pastry
cream backed up by crisp acidity and a lively perlage. It’s a great deal at this price point. Prestige
Wine Imports Corp. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
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Schmitt Söhne 2012 Thomas Schmitt Private
Collection Estate Bottled Qualitätswein Riesling (Mosel). Smoked nuts and dusty minerals accent lemon and pink grapefruit notes in this off-dry,
refreshingly brisk Riesling. Tart tangerine and white
peach flavors are juicy on the palate, lingering into
a finish that’s softly astringent in tea-like tannins.
Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $14
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Côté Mas NV Brut Rosé (Crémant de Limoux). The aromas of this pretty, refreshing
rosé are delicate and subtle at first. Faint scents of
white cherry, raspberry and red-apple skin build
strength and concentration on the medium-weight
palate. The mouthfeel is bright, juicy and mouthwatering, while a toasty, spicy accent unfolds on the
finish. Drink now. Esprit du Vin. —L.B.
abv: 12%
Price: $16
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Uptick Vineyards NV Sparkling Brut (North
Coast). Made from 60% Chardonnay and
40% Pinot Noir, this is a young, light sparkler with
developed flavors of honey, lychee and apple. The
body is crisp and medium in weight, and it finishes
tart in lemon. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
Finca Hispana 2011 FH Castrijo Crianza
(Rioja). Dry, spicy red-fruit and sawdust
aromas are elegant. This is fresh, crisp and refined
on the palate, with oak, plum, raspberry and tomato
flavors that dry out and narrow down on a tight,
well-framed finish. C & B International Trading
Group. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
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Trapiche 2012 Broquel Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendoza). Spice, licorice and herbal notes
complement red-fruit aromas, while the palate offers plenty of structure and tannic grab. There’s an
avalanche of blackberry, cassis, fig, chocolate and
herbal flavors to process, while the finish is rich
and rewarding before breaking up in bits. The Wine
Group. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
BEST BUYS
SPIRITS
is at its pinnacle for drinking now. It is rich, full in
the mouth, mingling toast with ripe grapefruit and
quince fruits. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $185
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Drappier 2006 Grande Sendrée Brut (Champagne). This vintage of Drappier’s top cuvée
is showing signs of delicious maturity. With tropical fruits morphing into toast and ripe almonds, it’s
a wine on the cusp of greatness. For now, there is
still plenty of freshness there, tight acidity and the
ripe character that’s typical of Champagnes from
the Aube. Drink now, but better wait until 2016. A.
Hardy USA. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $100
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Bodegas Franco-Españolas 2012 Royal Tempranillo (Rioja). Earth, leather and spicy
berry aromas feed into a bright, juicy palate with a
mix of herb, berry and oak flavors. A minty, lightly
oaked finish displays crisp acidity, freshness and
mild heat. Vision Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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The Irishman Founder’s Reserve Small Batch
Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Palm Bay International, Port Washington, NY). Light and easy-drinking,
this blended Irish whiskey features aromas of apples, pears and fresh-cut grass. On the palate, look
for vanilla and salted caramel, with a moderately
spiced finish showing allspice and clove. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $30
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Schmitt Söhne 2012 Relax Riesling (Mosel).
Fresh green herb and pine notes lend refreshment to the sweet white-peach flavor in this
juicy off-dry Riesling. Lemony acidity makes it crisp
and easy drinking in style. It finishes moderately
long, with a hint of savory smoked nuts. SchmittSöhne USA. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 9%
Price: $10
Laurent-Perrier 2004 Millésime Brut (Champagne). From an excellent Champagne vintage, this is wonderfully balanced. Stylish and elegant, it offers just the right amount of acidity to
balance the ripe white and citrus fruits. A smooth
texture embraces the freshness and makes this a
wine to be drunk now. Laurent-Perrier US. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $65
Louis Roederer 2008 Blanc de Blancs Brut
(Champagne). Tight with acidity and minerality, this is a precocious Champagne from a great
vintage. Citrus and crisp apple flavors are allied to
a strongly zesty character that brings out the chalk
terroir of the Côte des Blancs in Champagne. Certainly the wine will age, so keep and drink from
2016. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $86
Bastille 1789 Blended Whisky (France; Palm
Bay International, Port Washington, NY).
Aged five to seven years in French oak, this smooth,
elegant whisky offers bold, fruity aromatics, with
just the faintest suggestion of smoke. On the palate, smoke is evident from the first sip, gentle but
persistent, floating over vanilla and almond flavors.
That long exhale of smoke continues into the fade,
alongside a burst of dry cigar box spice and burnt
orange peel. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $30
José Maria da Fonseca 2013 Twin Vines (Vinho Verde). This crisp, lightly sparkling, offdry Vinho Verde offers attractive acidity and bright
citrus flavors, with hints of apple and green plum.
Light and fresh, it’s ready to drink now. Palm Bay
International. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 10%
Price: $8
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Drappier 2005 Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs
Millesimé Brut (Champagne). This is just
showing hints of maturing. For now, the texture is
tangy, zesty with a bite of minerality from the chalk
soil of the Chardonnay vineyards. It will develop
further in bottle, giving a crisp Champagne with a
delicious bite at the end. A. Hardy USA. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $66
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Mailly Grand Cru 2004 Les Echansons Brut
(Champagne). This is a serious wine, with
its tight mousse, signs of toastiness and intense
fruit and acidity. It is full of flavor, ripe from a good
vintage, packed with apple and citrus fruits along
with a nervy steely character from the Chardonnay
in the blend. It is ready to drink although it will certainly age for many years. Saranty Imports. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $180
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Mailly Grand Cru 2002 Exception Blanche
Blanc de Blancs (Champagne). From one
of the great vintages so far this century, this is, as
its name suggests, exceptional. It has such a strong
steely mineral character from the Côte des Blancs’
chalk soil and a coiled texture. Apple skin and lemon juice give the fruitiness to the wine, which is still
young. Drink now–2025. Saranty Imports. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $85
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Pol Roger 2004 Extra Cuvée de Réserve
Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). The rich
Pol Roger style is contrasted here with the natural
crisp minerality of a Blanc de Blancs. That gives a
great tension, with the tight texture just waiting
to round out as the wine ages further. Because it is
still a young wine, fresh and just setting out. You
can drink it now, but much better to wait until 2017.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $140
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Ayala 2005 Cuvée Perle d’Ayala Millesimé
Brut (Champagne). Now reaching its peak,
this vintage of Ayala’s top quality prestige cuvée is
ripe, full-bodied and rounded. It has the hallmark
dryness of the house although it has been softened
by aging and given elegance and style. It’s totally
ready to drink. Vintus LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $175
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Drappier 2008 Millésime Exception Brut
(Champagne). This is moving stylishly towards maturity, which is allowing the tangy orange
and crisp apple flavors to develop toast and almond
flavors and to deepen in richness. It’s ripe, hinting
at yellow fruits and still able to age, at least until
2020. A. Hardy USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $55
It also means that it needs to age in bottle to allow the mouthwatering acidity to soften a little. As
it fills out, it will become an impressive wine that
has pure fruits to go with the minerality. Keep until
2017. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $80
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Pierre Gimonnet et Fils 2006 Spécial Club
Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). Spécial Club is a grouping of growers who
taste each other’s wines and approve them for Club
status. This is certainly an impressive wine, seamlessly moving from freshness to richness via a steely
texture. It is still impressively young and fruity, a
bright, crisp wine that will age for several more
years. Drink from 2016. Michael Skurnik Wines.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $94
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Pol Roger 2006 Extra Cuvée de Réserve Brut
Rosé (Champagne). With its mature orange,
onion skin color, this is a soft, toasty wine. It is losing fruit and gaining a wide range of mature flavors
while keeping tight acidity. The wine tastes drier
than previous vintages, a crisp aftertaste allowing
the texture to shine and the more mature elements
to develop well. Drink now, although the wine will
age longer. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $130
delicious apple and white peach fruits, lively acidity and a texture that is moving towards toastiness.
The wine is ready to drink. Michael Skurnik Wines.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $92
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J. Dumangin Fils 2008 Premium Rosé de
Saignée Premier Cru Extra-Brut (Champagne). A lightly orange-colored rosé that is made
by macerating the grapes on the skins for 72 hours.
The result is a soft wine, very dry while also showing a rounded character that gives richness. Ripe
red fruits and a touch of grapefruit are sustained
by a mineral texture. Drink now. Palateur Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $90
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Jean Milan 2009 Symphorine Grand Cru
Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). This is a
fresh, still-young wine packed with citrus and white
fruits. It has strong layers of acidity, a tight texture
and a mineral aftertaste. There is a considerable
depth of flavor here, a wine that delves deep into
the textured fruitiness. It’s a wine for aging, so wait
until 2016 before drinking. Michael Skurnik Wines.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $75
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Ayala 2007 Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). This Blanc de Blancs has shed its
initial minerality and gained rich fruitiness. Apricots as well as more citrus flavors abound, bringing out a full and round character. From Grand Cru
vineyards on the Côte des Blancs, this is ready to
drink. Vintus LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $95
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils 2009 Cuvée Gastronome Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut
(Champagne). Although this wine is labeled Brut,
it is in fact right at the driest end of that category.
Bone dry, therefore, while full of white fruits and
crisp lemon zest flavors. The texture is tight, steely
and speaks strongly of the chalk of the soil. It is still
young, so this vintage wine can be drunk now for
its fruitiness or left until 2016 for a more rounded,
toasty character. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $68
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J. Dumangin Fils 2004 Le Vintage Premier
Cru Extra Brut (Champagne). Ripe lemon
and crisp apples give the fruity element to this still
young-tasting wine. There are only the slightest
hints of a more toasty character, while the texture
is tight, impressively full in the mouth. Made from
Premier Cru vineyards in Chigny-lès-Roses, this is
ready to drink, but will be even better from 2016.
Palateur Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $90
Louis Roederer 2009 Brut Rosé (Champagne). The latest vintage of Roederer Rosé
shows all the finesse of which this producer is capable. It has fruit and the merest touches of bottle
age. Red berries shine alongside the mineral texture
and the pure line of crisp acidity. It’s a beautiful
Champagne that could age longer. Maisons Marques
& Domaines USA. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $80
Moët & Chandon 1999 Grand Vintage Collection Brut (Champagne). Mature, toasty aromas give this wine an immediate sophistication. It
is full in the mouth, showing almonds, ripe toastiness, coffee and tight acidity. It’s ripe and full-bodied while keeping a more nervy character that allows it to finish with a great lift. It’s ready to drink.
Moët Hennessy USA. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $140
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils 2008 Oenophile Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut (Champagne). Extra Brut and the wine is also described
as non dosé, meaning no dosage. So it’s as dry as a
bone while also being totally crisp, fresh and fruity.
14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
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Bruno Paillard 2004 Assemblage Brut
(Champagne). Very dry, this is a crisp,
steely and structured wine, a blend of Chardonnay
and Pinot Noir that still tastes young. A blend made
from nine different villages, it is so fresh and fruity
with its white and citrus fruits, sliced apples and
lemon juice. A zesty character at the back gives it a
lively aftertaste. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $85
Delamotte 2004 Blanc de Blancs Brut
(Champagne). This is the best Delamotte
vintage since 1996, a ripe and rich wine that brings
out the chalky soil character with a strong mineral
content. It has weight along with a relatively high
dosage that gives softness. It is balanced, fruity and
ready to drink. Vineyard Brands. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $112
Henri Goutorbe 2005 Spécial Club Grand Cru
Brut (Champagne). Goutorbe is a member
of the Spécial Club grouping of grower producers,
which tastes and approves each other’s special
cuvée. This 2005, with its ripe fruits and the beginnings of bottle age, is a worthy member. It has
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils 2006 Cuvée Fleuron
Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). Just getting to maturity, this is hinting at
toastiness while also retaining all the bright apple
and citrus fruit flavors. The taut and steely texture
brings out great freshness and a concentrated final
acidity. It is just ready to drink. Michael Skurnik
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $72
Boizel 2000 Joyau de France Brut (Champagne). The millennium year, 2000, was not
the greatest Champagne vintage. However, Boizel
has released a prestige cuvée from that year and
produced a well matured wine with a dry character and plenty of toasty notes. Dominated by Pinot
Noir, it is deliciously rich and totally ready to drink.
Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $116
Jean Milan 2009 Terres de Noël Vieilles Vignes
Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut (Champagne).
Milan is a specialist in Blanc de Blancs wines, and
this is a top-quality example of that skill. It is as
crisp as possible, very tight and bright. With a
nervy, mineral character it speaks of the chalk soil
of the vineyards. This is still young, very drinkable
now while also ready to age for several more years.
Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $94
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Jean-Noël Haton 2009 Blanc de Blancs Brut
(Champagne). A wonderfully textured and
fruity wine that comes from vineyard in Damery
on the slopes of the Montagne de Reims. It is steely
with a chalky texture that marches with the fresh
apple fruits and crisp acidity. Still young, it will be
better from 2016. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $65
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Mailly Grand Cru 2008 L’Intemporelle Brut
Rosé (Champagne). With its beautiful pale
pink color and bright fruitiness, this delicious wine
also has a good depth of texture, mineral strength
and tight acidity. Even though it is now six years
old, it is showing no sign of maturity, so drink from
2016. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $130
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Veuve Doussot 2006 Memory Brut (Champagne). This is an elegant Champagne, with a
burgeoning sense of maturity as well as fresh acidity. Flavors of ripe pear are cut with a light touch of
lemon while the overall texture is soft and on the
sweet side of Brut. It could age a few more years,
so drink now and until 2019. Serge Doré Selections.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $90
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Boizel 2004 Grand Vintage (Champagne).
With half the blend Chardonnay, this has a
crisp and steely character. It also has richness and
the first signs of maturity. It is full in the mouth,
an elegant Champagne that would be good to drink
now, but will also develop further. Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $66
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Jacquesson et Fils 2008 Dizy Terres Rouges
Extra Brut Rosé (Champagne). This darkcolored rosé comes from a single vineyard in the
village of Dizy. It is certainly dry as its Extra Brut
description indicates, but it offers so much ripe
red fruitiness that it is also rich and concentrated.
There is bright acidity at the end. Drink now. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $200
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Jean-Noël Haton 2007 Noble Vintage Brut
(Champagne). In the case of this wine, Brut
really means dry. It has an austere character, personified by the strongly mineral, steely streak that
goes through it. In contrast, green apple and pink
grapefruit flavors give the crisp fruitiness. All this
means the wine needs to age further, so drink from
2016. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $70
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Mailly Grand Cru 2007 Millésime Brut
(Champagne). Richer than many Cham-
pagnes from 2007 that focus on delicacy, this ripe,
full-bodied wine has a dominance (75%) of fruity,
textured Pinot Noir. It features berry fruits, fresh
pears and quince, along with a great clean line of
acidity. Drink now and until 2018. Saranty Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $55
this has a beautiful balance between the lightest
dosage, making it very dry, and intense structure
and texture. It’s still young and fruity and worth
some bottle age. Vintage ’59 Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $80
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Moët & Chandon 1985 Grand Vintage Collection Brut (Champagne). At nearly 30 years
old, this is a mature wine. Toast, almonds and honey
are the dominant character. It is soft, although still
with structure and crisp acidity. The flavors give a
sense almost of sweetness, rounded vanilla as well
as the brighter freshness. It is fascinating for its
age and, like many older Champagnes, it needs to
breathe before drinking. Moët Hennessy USA. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA/1.5 L
Huré Frères 2009 Inattendue Blanc de
Blancs Extra Brut (Champagne). Extra Brut,
yes, but the ripeness of the Chardonnay gives a rich,
creamed apple character that balances the very dry
aftertaste. It is still a fledgling Champagne needing
to fill out. Give this until 2016 before drinking. Elixirs du Monde. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $60
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Pannier 2009 Louis Eugène Blanc de Noirs
Brut (Champagne). This full-bodied and
ripe wine shows the richness of the Pinot grapes in
the blend. It has crisp red apple and grapefruit fruit,
followed by a tighter, steely texture that increases
the freshness. At the end, it is as much fruity as textured. Aviva Vino. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
NONVINTAGE CHAMPAGNE
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Laurent-Perrier NV Grand Siècle Grande Cuvée Brut (Champagne). Laurent-Perrier’s
prestige cuvée has always been nonvintage, a blending of top wines from top years. It remains an exceptional wine, not quite dry and with a tinge of softness, but so elegant and balanced. This bottling has
just the right amount of maturity, hinting at toast
while guarding every iota of fruitiness. LaurentPerrier US. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $130
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils NV Oger Grand Cru
Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). In keeping with Gimonnet’s dry style, this is almost bone
dry and as sharp as a knife. Behind the steely texture, it is fruity as well, with tight apple and strong
citrus flavors. It’s a tense and nervy style with depth
of flavor and concentration. This is 100% Chardonnay harvested in 2011 from Oger grand cru vineyards in the Côte des Blancs. Drink now, although
it will age and round out in bottle through 2015 at
least. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils NV Sélection Belles
Années Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne).
A blend of wines from six different villages across
five vintages goes into this supreme example of a
Blanc de Blancs. It is so crisp, so mineral and textured. At the same time, it is elegant, fresh and
lively. Although it is nonvintage, it will benefit
from some more time in bottle, so drink from summer 2015. Michael Skurnik Wines. Editors’ Choice.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $46
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Charles Heidsieck NV Brut Réserve (Champagne). Fresh and fruity while also rich
and full in the mouth, this is a superbly balanced
nonvintage selection. It is not quite dry with its
apple and citrus fruits both given some softness.
Disgorged in 2012, it already has two years bottle
age that has rounded out the wine. Drink now. Remy
Cointreau USA. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $60
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Jacquesson et Fils NV Cuvée No 736 Brut
(Champagne). With just the right amount
of bottle aging, this almost bone-dry Champagne is
tight, steely while also hinting at the beginnings of
toastiness. It is also full of crisp apple, lemon and
pink grapefruit fruitiness, well integrated into the
taut texture. Drink now for freshness, age for even
more toastiness. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $80
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Jacquesson et Fils NV Cuvée No 733 Dégorgement Tardive Extra Brut (Champagne). By
leaving the Champagne on its lees for an extended
period, this wine from the 2005 vintage and disgorged in 2013, has balanced out the totally crisp
character of Extra Brut. It’s become rich and rounded, with equal amounts of Chardonnay and the two
Pinots, Noir and Meunier. It’s an impressive, powerful wine to drink now. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $171
Jacquesson et Fils NV Cuvée No 737 Brut
(Champagne). The latest numbered bottling in the Non Vintage series from Jacquesson,
Jean Milan NV Duo 150 Grand Cru Blanc de
Blancs Brut (Champagne). To celebrate the
family’s 150th anniversary (founded in 1864), the
Milans have released two Champagnes, half fermented in wood the other half in tank. The result
for this Blanc de Blancs is a full wine, with a future that will bring out richness as well as a tight,
mineral structure with just a hint of toast. Michael
Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $124
Jean Milan NV Duo 150 Grand Cru Brut Rosé
(Champagne). Made by Carolin Milan to
WINEMAG.COM | 15
BUYINGGUIDE
celebrate the family’s 150th anniversary, this is a
delicious celebration of rosé, with red fruits and
crisp acidity. It dances on the palate while also
having depth of flavor. At the end, the fruit shows
richness and a fine future. Michael Skurnik Wines.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $124
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Laurent-Perrier NV Ultra Brut (Champagne).
Ultra Brut, the original no-dosage Champagne, is the name and that’s just how this bonedry wine tastes. It’s totally crisp, fruity, structured
and fresh. Acidity from tight citrus combines with
apples and pears to produce a wine that offers both
fruitiness and dryness. Like many super-dry Champagnes, it will benefit from some bottle aging, so
drink at least six months after purchase. LaurentPerrier US. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $75
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Lelarge-Pugeot NV Les Meuniers de Clémence
Vrigny Premier Cru Extra Brut (Champagne).
This beautifully balanced wine has dryness compensated by the intense fruitiness, the crisp mineral
texture and a creamy mousse character. It is ripe,
full of both apple fruits and lime juice with a tight
aftertaste that will soften in the next months. Terrell Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $50
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Veuve Doussot NV Cuvée L Blanc de Blancs
Brut (Champagne). Produced from 50-yearold Chardonnay vines, this rich Champagne has
full apple and crisp citrus flavors that are filled out
with toasty bottle age and great depth of flavor. It’s
mouth-filling and sophisticated. The oval (as distinct from round) bottle is a work of art. Serge Doré
Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $105
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Besserat de Bellefon NV Cuvée B de B Brut
(Champagne). To celebrate its 1843 origins, Besserat de Bellefon has released this limitededition wood-fermented wine. It is a classic yet
exceptional blend of Chardonnay/Pinot Noir/Pinot
Meunier from eight cru vineyards. The taste is ripe
and rich, with the wood treatment reducing the
acidity while filling out the fruit. A complex wine,
it will repay further bottle aging. Winesellers Ltd.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $100
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Charles Heidsieck NV Réserve Brut Rosé
(Champagne). With its onion-skin color,
this already shows age. The palate, with its mature
reflection and beautiful rounded texture, confirms
this. Rich, well balanced and gently mature, it
has retained enough red fruits to keep an element
of freshness. It is a food wine, rich and full in the
mouth. Remy Cointreau USA. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $75
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Laurent-Perrier NV Cuvée Brut Rosé (Champagne). Orange-pink in color, this dry wine
has some good bottle age that has rounded the cor-
16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
ners and allowed toast to join the red fruits and orange zest flavors. A complex background of acidity,
structure and final tautness makes this wine ready
to drink now. Laurent-Perrier US. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $100
Cru vineyards, this finely sculpted Champagne has
crisp apple fruit and a steely, tight texture that suggests the need for bottle age. A light softness at the
end rounds out this elegant wine. Aviva Vino. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
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Mailly Grand Cru NV Brut Rosé (Champagne).
This is a fruity, fragrant wine with light
fruitiness and deliciously crisp acidity. Red berry
flavors are lined with red apple acidity and a texture
that shows a touch of minerality from the Grand Cru
vineyards on the Montagne de Reims. Unusually for
a rosé Champagne, this is made principally from Pinot Noir, with color coming from the skins rather
than from adding red wine to the blend. Saranty
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $55
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Pol Roger NV Pure Extra Brut (Champagne).
Almost shockingly dry at first, the wine then
develops a more mature character that broadens out
the tight acidity and fruit. Previously described as
Brut Nature, it’s now designated as Extra Brut, allowing more dosage. It also has depth of flavor, complexity from the fruits, the hint of toast from bottle
age. The wine finishes crisply with a fine mineral
shot at the end. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $84
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A. Margaine NV Le Brut Premier Cru (Champagne). This is a seriously dry wine. Arnaud
Margaine works each harvest to create freshness
and a totally crisp texture, generally dismissing malolactic fermentation. It is balanced, allowing the
fruitiness to shine through the tight, mineral texture from the predominant Chardonnay in the blend
that comes from a mere 16-acre Montaigne de Reims vineyard surrounded by Pinot Noir. It could age
through 2015 in bottle to be even better. Michael
Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $55
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Bruno Paillard NV Blanc de Blancs Réserve
Privée Brut (Champagne). The wine is rounded and rich, balancing some signs of mature toastiness with ripe white fruits and citrus. A tight, citrus character gives a tense structure, mineral and
chalky. Typical of Paillard’s wines, the bubbles of
the mousse are tiny, the result of lower pressure
in the bottle. Martin Scott Wines. Editors’ Choice.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $68
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Mailly Grand Cru NV Brut Réserve (Champagne). A tight, bright wine that is on the dry
side of Brut, but with enough dosage to give a soft
feel. It has apple and lively lime and lemon flavors
with a strong stripe of minerality to bring out the
texture. This bottling could do with waiting until
mid-2015 in bottle. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $45
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Pannier NV Blanc Velours Brut (Champagne).
With a majority of Chardonnay from Grand
Pol Roger NV Extra Cuvée de Réserve Rich
(Champagne). It is rare to find a Rich Champagne that works as well as this. The fruit and the
comparative sweetness are well integrated and balanced without seams or interruptions. It makes for
an exceptional wine that is ready to drink. Frederick
Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $74
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Ruinart NV Brut Rosé (Champagne). Pale in
color, this is dominated by its taut, nervy
structure. Crisp red currant and red apple flavors
give the fruitiness. A ripe, full-bodied mouthfeel
brings out a softer, riper aftertaste. Moët Hennessy
USA. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $90
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Tendil & Lombardi NV Blanc de Noirs Brut
(Champagne). Blanc de Noirs, white Champagne only from red grapes, produces wines with
some weight, as here. It makes for a rich, full-blooded Champagne, packed with red fruits while also cut
through with intense acidity. The fruitiness gains
shape from a zesty texture. The Barterhouse. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $50
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Ayala NV Brut Majeur (Champagne). Ayala,
based in Aÿ in the heart of Champagne,
has been transformed since Bollinger bought it in
2005 and this nonvintage proves it. This is a balanced blend of 40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir
and 20% Pinot Meunier. The result is crisp while
not too dry, and therefore drinkable as an apéritif.
Apple and bright citrus combine with green plums
to give a fruity wine that is also structured. The cellarmaster continues to reduce the dosage (sugar) so
there is a crisp, tight aftertaste. Vintus LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $50
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Besserat de Bellefon NV Cuvée des Moines
Extra Brut (Champagne). The extra dry version of Besserat’s prestige cuvée is a certainly bone
dry. But there is richness as well, so that it offers
the hints of yellow fruits as well as crisp apple skin.
It has bottle age with a toasty edge that gives further depth. All in all, an attractive, ready-to-drink
Champagne that deserves food to bring out its best.
Winesellers Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $50
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Bruno Paillard NV Première Cuvée Brut Rosé
(Champagne). With the lightest color, this
has great fruitiness and the freshest of acidity while
showing no sign of maturing. Red berry flavors are
dominant along with a character that makes this as
much wine as Champagne. On the dry side of Brut,
it needs food. Martin Scott Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $68
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Dautel-Cadot NV Cuvée Prestige Brut
(Champagne). Grape growers since the end
of the 18th century, the Dautel and Cadot families
are based in the Aube area of Champagne. The family began making their own Champagne in 1971;
now Sylvain Dautel works the vineyard by hand and
makes the wine for this small maison. Full-bodied,
this has touches of toast from the five years bottle
age. The rich fruit also allows plenty of tight acidity
into the mix. Drink this mature, well-balanced wine
now. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $75
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Piper-Heidsieck NV Brut (Champagne). For
full review see page 11. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12%
Price: $38
anced by the continuing fresh, fragrant acidity and
crisp citrus. The bottling is ready to drink. Michael
Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $36
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Jean Milan NV Millénaire Blanc de Blancs
Grand Cru Brut (Champagne). A ripe and
creamy wine that has also managed to retain a
strongly mineral character. It’s a rich wine from the
heart of Champagne’s Côte des Blancs Chardonnay
vineyards. Apples, spice and tight lime and lemon
flavors give a crisp aftertaste. It is ready to drink.
Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $61
Laurent-Perrier NV LP Brut (Champagne).
Fresh and crisp, this is bright with acidity as well as warmer fruitiness. It brings out the
dry Laurent-Perrier style, balanced by soft creamed
apples and fragrant acidity. Light and fruity at the
end, it is ready to drink. Laurent-Perrier US. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $45
Nominé-Renard NV Brut (Champagne). Situated between Épernay and Sézanne to the
south of the main Champagne vineyards, NominéRenard produces soft, ripe wines. This Nonvintage
Brut is the family standard bearer, rich and rounded
with an attractive toastiness showing bottle age.
Citrus and white peach flavors are a contrast and
allow the wine to finish freshly. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils NV Cuis Premier Cru
Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). The
wine is soft and rounded although unmistakably
from Chardonnay in the chalky Côte des Blancs.
Crisp apples have a light creaminess as well as
lively acidity. Coming from Premier Cru vineyards,
it shows a strongly mineral character that is filled
out by the ripe fruitiness. Michael Skurnik Wines.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $56
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Pierre Gimonnet et Fils NV Rosé des Blancs
Premier Cru Brut (Champagne). This delicately colored rosé is made by adding red wine to
Chardonnay, allowed in the Champagne region, and
hence the name Rosé des Blancs. It’s a new venture
for Gimonnet, under the current direction of Didier
Gimonnet, and is a great success. Fruity, crisp and
steely. it is light and bright; a fine apéritif style. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $69
Pol Roger NV Réserve Brut (Champagne).
Full and ripe, this offers balance between
rich white fruits and a smooth texture that is cut
with acidity. The wine is in great harmony with itself, ready to drink while also allowing the possibility of bottle aging. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $64
Ruinart NV Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). Soft, ripe and fruity, this has a
generous texture rounded with an attractive touch
of toastiness and rich pear flavors. At the end, with
its steely aftertaste and acidity, the wine shows a
firmer structure and density. It’s very much in the
rich Ruinart style. Moët Hennessy USA. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $80
Tendil & Lombardi NV Blanc de Blancs Brut
(Champagne). The wine has all the right
crispness and steeliness of a Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay. It also has warmth, yellow fruits along with
a touch of apple. That makes a wine that is fullbodied while not missing out on a tight, very fresh
aftertaste. The Barterhouse. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $50
Besserat de Bellefon NV Cuvée des Moines
Brut (Champagne). This soft and fruity
wine is attractively balanced and fresh. Lively
acidity brings out a bright texture and crisp aftertaste. This bottling, disgorged in April 2013 (bravo
Besserat de Bellefon for indicating this), is now at
the right moment to drink. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $45
Boizel NV Blanc de Noirs Brut (Champagne).
A Blanc de Noirs made exclusively from Pinot Noir always has a feeling of weight and richness.
This is no exception, full-bodied in character, with
rich pink grapefruit and green plum flavors. The
bottling is still young and will benefit from bottle
aging until 2016. Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $52
Drappier NV Carte d’Or Brut (Champagne).
With some good maturity, this is a rich,
fruity Champagne. It comes from the southern Aube
region, which endows a more tropical feel, bringing
out melon and apricot fruit flavors as well as crisper citrus. A great apéritif style, it will also go with
food. A. Hardy USA. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $42
89
Henri Goutorbe NV Cuvée Prestige Premier
Cru Brut (Champagne). With vineyards in
Aÿ on the southern slopes of the Montagne de Reims, Goutorbe is well placed with grand and premier
cru sites. This is a premier cru wine, concentrated
and with bottle age. Touches of toastiness are bal-
Nominé-Renard NV Brut Blanc de Blancs
(Champagne). Crisp, steely and fresh, this
pure Chardonnay wine has a touch of minerality,
signs of attractive bottle aging and a soft aftertaste.
Balanced and fruity, it’s ready to drink now. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
Pommery NV Apanage Brut Rosé (Champagne). A really pale rosé with hints of onion skin, this tastes as light and delicate as its color.
It has more citrus than red fruits, an ethereal line of
acidity and a fresh character. The blend of this wine
is gradually getting drier and crisper over the years.
Vranken Pommery America. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $75
A. Margaine NV Brut Rosé (Champagne).
This is a lightly colored rosé, fresh as a red
currant while having a tight texture of crisp acidity.
It does need some bottle age to bring out the fuller
fruit and ripe red berries. Drink this bottling from
2015, while Arnaud Margaine continues to improve
the vineyards worked by the family for four generations. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $62
Ayala NV Majeur Brut Rosé (Champagne).
Typical of the Ayala style, this is almost
bone dry. It has crisp acidity and a light touch on
the fresh strawberry and raspberry flavors. Its success also comes from the mineral texture that gives
structure to this food-friendly wine. Vintus LLC.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $70
Besserat de Bellefon NV Cuvée des Moines
Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). This
is tight, mineral and on the dry side of Brut. The
100% Chardonnay taste signals chalky soil—crisp
and fresh. A pure line of acidity cuts through the
texture, giving a balanced, always dry wine that
could do with more bottle aging to soften the piercing acidity at the end. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $70
Besserat de Bellefon NV Cuvée des Moines
Brut Rosé (Champagne). With its orangepink color, this rosé is showing the good results of
nearly a year’s bottle age. That has filled out the
fresh red fruits and given the lively texture a touch
of toast. It is drier than it used to be, a structured
and ripe wine that is ready to drink. As with its
white counterpart, this Cuvée de Moins Brut is designed as a food wine. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $55
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Boizel NV Brut Réserve (Champagne). Boizel
is one of those enlightened producers that
indicates the date of disgorgement­—and therefore
how fresh the wine is likely to be—on its nonvin-
WINEMAG.COM | 17
BUYINGGUIDE
tage bottlings. This Brut, from an April 2014 disgorgement, is an attractively fruity wine with fresh
acidity, ripe red apples and a light, bright aftertaste.
Drink now. Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing
LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $45
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Boizel NV Brut (Champagne). This steely,
almost bone-dry Chardonnay is very fresh
and still young in bottle. It is bright, full of citrus
and apple flavors, with a touch of quince and layers
of youthful acidity. Age until at least mid-2015 before drinking. Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $57
88
Boizel NV Brut Rosé (Champagne). Particularly rich, this is full of red fruit and offers
a generous texture. The attractive pale pink color is
followed by a crisp fruitiness and a floral character
that gives an aromatic as well as full-bodied feeling. Balanced and fruity, it should stay in the bottle
until 2016. Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing
LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $52
88
Bruno Paillard NV Première Cuvée Brut
(Champagne). Nearly a year in bottle after
disgorgement has given this a toasty character. The
acidity and the citrus fruits are still there, but they
have been seamlessly integrated into the mature flavors. It’s a light style, delicate and elegant. Martin
Scott Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $50
88
Dautel-Cadot NV Cuvée Elégance Brut
(Champagne). Made from Pinot Blanc, allowed although rarely seen in Champagne, this is a
crisp, stylish wine that has some bottle age. Baked
apple and lemon flavors accompany tight acidity.
The aftertaste is crisp and dry. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $90
88
Heidsieck & Co Monopole NV Blue Top Brut
(Champagne). This is a crisp and fruity
style of Champagne, lightweight and attractively
fresh. It comes from the original of the three Champagne producers with Heidsieck in their name, and
this nonvintage seems to be finding its form after
several fallow years. Drink this apple-fruited wine
now. Vranken Pommery America. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $35
88
J. Dumangin Fils NV Le Rosé Premier Cru Brut
(Champagne). Dry and crisp, this bright,
tight Champagne has citrus, red fruits and a strong
steely character at its heart. The bottling tastes
young, fresh and would benefit from some bottle
age. Hold it until mid-2015. Palateur Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $60
88
Moët & Chandon NV Impérial Brut (Champagne). Soft and fruity, this accessible
Champagne has an attractive tang of lemon zest
acidity that lifts the ripe apple flavors. The balance
18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
between softness and a crisp texture is just right.
Lively and ready to drink. Moët Hennessy USA.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $41
88
Moët & Chandon NV Impérial Brut Rosé
(Champagne). This is a ripe, lightly pinkcolored wine, full of red fruits as well as crisp acidity. It is soft, with a gentle creamy mousse that
rounds out in the mouth. It’s ready to drink, leaving
a warm while fresh aftertaste. Moët Hennessy USA.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $50
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Nominé-Renard NV Brut Rosé (Champagne).
Pink in color, this light wine has attractive
raspberry fruits that contrast with a more yeasty
character at the end. It’s bright and fresh with a soft
aftertaste. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
88
Piper-Heidsieck NV Cuvée Sublime Demi-Sec
(Champagne). This medium-dry Champagne is attractively structured and really fruity.
It does have something of the mineral texture of a
drier Champagne that is contrasted with apricot
and honey highlights. It is ready to drink. Remy
Cointreau USA. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $42
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Piper-Heidsieck NV Sauvage Brut Rosé
(Champagne). Very dry, this has almost no
dosage, but it delivers great fruitiness, a crisp and
steely structure and lively acidity. Red fruits dominate this fresh and lively wine that is ready to drink.
Remy Cointreau USA. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $45
88
Pommery NV Brut Royal (Champagne).
Crisp, light, almost delicate, this is certainly
sophisticated wine. With lively acidity, bright white
fruits and a tangy minerality, it does everything this
style of Champagne should do. Over the years, as the
grapes in Champagne get riper, this cuvée has become drier, while remaining well balanced. Vranken
Pommery America. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $45
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Dautel-Cadot NV Grande Tradition Blanc de
Noirs Brut (Champagne). From the Aube region in the south of Champagne, this is a rich and
soft wine, on the sweet side for a Brut. It has a warm
feeling to it, ripe and with apricot and apple fruit
flavors. Rounded and full in the mouth, it is ready
to drink. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $35
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Huré Frères NV L’Invitation Brut Réserve
(Champagne). Based in the Marne Valley, Huré Frères has produced a fresh Champagne.
It’s full in the mouth, rounded and brimming with
youthful fruitiness. Just a touch of sweetness at the
end gives a soft aftertaste. Elixirs du Monde. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $45
87
Pommery NV Brut Rosé (Champagne). The
color is as pale as a pink can get, leading to
a wine that has light hints of red fruits. Red apples
and crisp lemon flavors come through more strongly. It’s a soft, delicious wine that needs no bottle age.
Vranken Pommery America. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $55
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Vranken NV Diamant Brut (Champagne).
Vranken’s releases seem to be bucking the
trend towards drier Champagnes. This wine is soft
and obviously the dosage is high. It is balanced and
the fresh creamed apple flavors and light texture
all work well together. It is in a light style, ready to
drink. Vranken Pommery America. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $53
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Vranken NV Diamant Brut Rosé (Champagne). Light and fruity, this soft Champagne has red berry fruits, noticeable sweetness
and fresh acidity to match. It’s attractive for those
who like their Champagne soft and easygoing. Vranken Pommery America. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $72
85
Vranken NV Demoiselle Grande Cuvée Brut
(Champagne). On the sweeter end of the
Brut spectrum, this is soft, rounded and ripe, with
attractive acidity and pear flavors. The aftertaste,
though, has a barnyard character that spoils the
rest of the wine. Vranken Pommery America. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $49
85
Vranken NV Demoiselle Grande Cuvée Brut
Rosé (Champagne). Bright pink in color,
this is fresh and light. With candied strawberry flavors and a soft texture, it is made in a fruity apéritif
style. Vranken Pommery America. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
84
A. Margaine NV L’Extra Brut Premier Cru
(Champagne). This is too dry, too sharp and
crisp. Some bottle aging will help to round it out,
but the balance of this wine seems to need more
dosage than this. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $62
84
Dautel-Cadot NV Brut Rosé (Champagne).
A dark color with light orange flecks leads
to a wine that is fruity while feeling heavy. It has
ripe strawberry flavors and a caramel character that
doesn’t lie with the final acidity. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $59
84
Heidsieck & Co Monopole NV Rose Top Brut
(Champagne). Pushing past the earthy
character and into the fruit, this wine is light with
delicate red fruit flavors. It is fresh and crisp but
spoilt by that barnyard edginess. Vranken Pommery
America. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $45
FRENCH CRÉMANT
CRÉMANT D’ALSACE
90
Domaine Charles Baur NV Emotion (Crémant
d’Alsace). While this is a nonvintage wine,
it is still very young and will benefit from time in
bottle. That will allow the rich apple and crisp lemon flavors to round out, calming the intense acidity. The potential of this rich wine is considerable.
Grape News Importing. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
89
Domaine Charles Baur NV Brut (Crémant
d’Alsace). Full and ripe, this is dominated
by rich apple flavors that are cut with taut lemon
zest. The wine is crisp, showing great acidity and a
creamy aftertaste. It is ready to drink. Grape News
Importing. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
vored wine. It has a bone-dry character with a mineral and lemon zest texture. It’s ready to drink. Elite
Wines Import. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $23
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Wolfberger NV Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). Perfumed and deliciously aromatic, this is full
of bright fruitiness, with a lemon zest tang and
lively acidity. Great as an apéritif, it’s ready to drink
now. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg NV Anne de
K Blanc de Blancs Brut Pinot Blanc (Crémant
d’Alsace). A lively mousse gives this wine a creamy
texture that’s rounded out with apple and melon
flavors. Crispness comes through the tight texture
and the lively acidity. It’s an attractive, fresh wine
to drink now. Total Wine & More. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
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Domaine Charles Baur NV Brut Rosé (Crémant d’Alsace). This is deliciously fresh and
full. Red fruits are laced with intense acidity and a
crisp, clean texture. It gives instant fruity pleasure
and a light and bright aftertaste. Grape News Importing. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
Cave Freudenreich NV Brut (Crémant
d’Alsace). Lively, crisp and fragrant, this offers fresh acidity and a fruit salad of flavors, along
with a creamy textured mousse. With its slight spiciness, it’s best as an apéritif. Wine Without Borders.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $19
88
Domaine Ehrhart NV Domaine Saint-Rémy
Prestige Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). Pure
Chardonnay, this soft and creamy wine is full of
fruit. Apples and crisp pears give a ripe and rounded
character that goes with the full mousse. It’s ready
to drink. Robert Kacher Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
88
Domaine Vincent Stoeffler NV Blanc de
Blancs Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). Fresh and
crisp, this is a blend of Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay
and Auxerrois. It has a bright aromatic character,
citrus and apple flavors and a fruity aftertaste. Authentique Vin. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $27
88
Wolfberger NV Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). Pinot Gris makes a Crémant that is not quite
dry, with spicy intensity and delicious acidity. It’s
rich, with almond and buttery flavors that are followed by a crisp, fragrant aftertaste. Kysela Père et
Fils. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
87
Domaine Jean-Luc Mader NV Brut (Crémant
d’Alsace). Bright, fruity and deliciously crisp
with a creamy mousse, this is a citrus and apple fla-
a touch of sweetness to soften the crisp aftertaste.
Total Wine & More. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $20
Charles Sparr NV Brut (Crémant d’Alsace).
Very crisp while also creamy, the wine has
sliced apple acidity with a mineral, tight texture and
a lemon aftertaste. It’s young and fruity, fresh with
a lively mousse. Because it is dry, it will be better
with food. Seaview Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $22
Dopff & Irion NV Blanc de Blancs Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). The wine is soft, round and
full in the mouth, with balance between fresh citrus
and ripe melon and pear fruits. The acidity gives a
great lift, adding to the steely texture and final burst
of fruit. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $21
86
Dopff & Irion NV Brut Rosé (Crémant
d’Alsace). Crisp and textured, this offers
plenty of fresh apple and red fruit flavors. It’s a
light, bright wine that’s poised and stylish, in a fine
apéritif style. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
86
Ruhlmann NV Signature Brut (Crémant
d’Alsace). This is fresh, not quite dry and a
fine apéritif wine. With its soft texture, apple fruits
and light mousse, it’s both fruity and crisp, with
a rounded, fragrant aftertaste. Cognac One, LLC.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
85
Charles Sparr NV Brut Rosé (Crémant
d’Alsace). Pure Pinot Noir has produced a
full, fruity sparkling wine. It is lightly crisp, fresh
with wild strawberries and acidity. The aftertaste,
soft and rounded, has a satisfying creamy character.
Seaview Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $23
84
Cave de Kientzheim-Kaysersberg NV Anne de
K Brut Rosé (Crémant d’Alsace). Very light
and fresh, this offers crisp red berry flavors. It’s
not quite dry, favoring fruitiness and acidity with
Helfrich NV Cuvée 1934 Brut (Crémant
d’Alsace). A wine that is soft and fruity with
a lively mousse. Some bitterness gives an edge to
the fruitiness and fresh acidity. It’s off dry and ready
to drink. Advantage International. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $22
Robert Klingenfus NV (Crémant d’Alsace).
Shockingly fresh, this is a crisp and citrusdriven wine that makes few concessions to a softer
view of life. That gives very tight acidity and intensely fresh lemon and orange zest flavors. Drink
from 2015 to allow the wine to soften. Chateau Armand. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE
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Bailly-Lapierre 2011 Egarade (Crémant de
Bourgogne). Already showing some toasty
maturity, this blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir
is delicate, yeasty and rounded. Coming from northern Burgundy, it has a cool climate feel, textured
with orange zest and the crispest acidity. It is ready
to drink, although another few years in bottle will
improve it even more. Wine Warehouse. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
91
Bailly-Lapierre 2008 Vive-la-Joie Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). For full review see page
8.
abv: 12%
Price: $33
90
Bailly-Lapierre NV Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). This is a Blanc de Noirs, white
sparkling wine made from red grapes, in this case
Pinot Noir. That gives both richness and a tense
acidity to a ripe, fully fruity wine. Spiced pear flavors partner with vanilla and youthful acidity. It
could bottle-age to mid-2015 to bring out its best.
William Harrison Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $22
90
Bailly-Lapierre 2008 Vive-la-Joie Brut Rosé
(Crémant de Bourgogne). A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this is the palest rosé, with a
delicious fresh character. Red currants and raspberries are combined with pure crisp acidity and lively
texture to make a totally refreshing wine. Drink
now, or age until 2016. Ruby Wines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
89
Simonnet-Febvre 2008 Cuvée S Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). This rich, fruity wine
is packed with ripe apples and pears, and cut with
delicious, full-on acidity. It’s aromatic, with a lively
mousse and a sparkling, lifted character. Drink now.
Louis Latour Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
WINEMAG.COM | 19
BUYINGGUIDE
88
Simonnet-Febvre NV Brut P100 Blanc de
Noirs (Crémant de Bourgogne). Pure Pinot
Noir, this has weight as well as intense acidity. It’s
a crisp wine, sourced from near Chablis, cool in
texture while showing ripe red apples and quince
fruitiness. Drink now. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $25
85
Cave de Bissey NV Brut Rosé (Crémant de
Bourgogne). Lively, fresh and packed with
sweet red fruits, this is a crisp and clean Crémant.
Its acidity acts like a knife, bringing out the fresh
wild strawberry flavors and aromatic aftertaste. T.
Elenteny Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $26
87
Paul Delane NV Brut Réserve (Crémant de
Bourgogne). A light-hearted Crémant from
northern Burgundy that has fresh apples and plenty
of citrus. It’s crisp and very fruity, lightly textured,
the ideal apéritif-style sparkling wine. Drink now.
Vitis Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
87
Simonnet-Febvre 2008 Blanc de Blancs Brut
(Crémant de Bourgogne). There is a bitter edge to this wine. Spice and tight acidity give a
nervy, taut character. At the same time, fresh apple
and citrus flavors come through. Give this wine until 2016 to soften. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $28
86
Cave de Bissey NV Blanc de Blancs Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). The 50-50 blend of
Chardonnay and Aligoté gives a tangy, zesty lemonflavored wine. It has a textured character, crisp and
full of the freshest acidity. It could benefit from a
few months in bottle, so when you buy, wait a little.
T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $29
86
Cave de Bissey NV Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). Close to Givry and Buxy, Bissey
is on the cool side of the Côte Chalonnaise, giving
its sparkling wines that extra freshness. This Brut
is bright, crisp, laced with apples and tangy lemon
zest. It’s a light and lively wine to drink as an apéritif. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $23
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Bailly-Lapierre NV Brut Rosé (Crémant de
Bourgogne). Red fruits show strongly in this
crisp and lightly tannic wine. A bitter edge spoils
the purity of the fruitiness and leaves a dry taste in
the mouth. The aftertaste brings back the freshness.
William Harrison Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $22
20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
96
Château de Montguéret NV Brut (Crémant
de Loire). This is a soft, fruity wine with a
rounded texture. Creamed apples are given freshness by a citrus shot. Although it is described as
Brut, its aftertaste is soft, smooth and with apple
juice sweetness. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
Olivier Leflaive 2012 Chevalier-Montrachet.
The combination of young fruit and the
wood aging are irresistible in this very grand wine.
With its ripe yellow fruits laced with lemon and
grapefruit, it’s a full and rich wine coming from
one of the greatest white wine vineyards in France.
Power and intensity are there, allowing the wine to
develop slowly over many years. Drink from 2019.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $670
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CRÉMANT DE LOIRE
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Domaine du Vieil Orme NV Gabriel Brut (Crémant de Loire). Fresh and creamily fruity,
this well-made, balanced wine features a touch of
honey and almonds as well as bright, crisp acidity.
The 100% Chardonnay in the wine gives a ripe and
round aftertaste. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $22
87
Marquis de Goulaine NV Brut (Crémant de
Loire). This is a crisp, clean and lightly
creamy sparkling wine. With its pure apple and light
touch of citrus, it offers freshness as an apéritif.
Drink now, it needs no bottle age. Deutsch Family
Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
CRÉMANT DE LIMOUX
88
Côté Mas NV Brut Rosé (Crémant de Limoux). For full review see page 12.
abv: 12%
Price: $16
Jaffelin NV Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne).
This is an attractive and fruity, creamy
wine. Flavors of ripe apples and pear juice are
boosted by the nutty suggestion of bottle age and by
a tight, crisp acidity at the end. Epic Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $24
Jaffelin NV Brut Rosé (Crémant de Bourgogne). Attractively crisp, this is a bright
red-fruited wine. Raspberries dominate along with
wild strawberries and a crisp, light texture. It’s a
fine apéritif style, fruity at the end. Epic Wines.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $25
while serious. Great citrus layers give a moment of
freshness in all this concentration. Green plums,
ripe apricots and lemon are all developing, contrasting with the dense, mineral structure. The wine
needs long-term aging, dont’ drink before 2020.
Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $500
BURGUNDY
WHITE BURGUNDY
GRANDS CRUS
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Olivier Leflaive 2012 Montrachet. The true
glory of white Burgundy should always be
revealed by Montrachet. This wine, with its wonderful combination of ripe fruits and dense, intense
structure, does just that. It has power, a serious intent for aging and a range of delicious fruits. Still
young, it is not for early drinking, so wait until
2019. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $802
96
Louis Jadot 2012 Les Demoiselles (ChevalierMontrachet). While the wood-aging shows
strongly in this young wine, it is already apparent
that it is going to be intense, grandiose, opulent
Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2012
Clos les Hospices Les Clos Grand Cru (Chablis). Bought by Christian Moreau’s great-greatgrandfather at the Hospices de Chablis in 1904, this
parcel lies within the Grand Cru of Les Clos. It’s a
superrich Chablis of great density and concentration. Spice, apricots and intense citrus provide the
hallmarks of a wine for long aging. Drink from 2019.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $121
95
La Chablisienne 2011 Château Grenouilles
Grand Cru (Chablis). For full review see page
3. Cellar Selection.
abv: 13%
Price: $95
95
Olivier Leflaive 2012 Bâtard-Montrachet.
The future is considerable for this wine
that is so rich, so textured, so full of minerality and
gorgeous fruit. All the potential is there, from the
steely character and the ripe wood-aging flavors.
Intense and dense, the wine will need to age for
many years to be at its peak. Don’t even touch before 2019. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $511
95
Pascal Bouchard 2012 Les Clos Grand Cru
(Chablis). This grandest of the Chablis
Grand Crus is giving very little at this early stage in
its development. It’s a serious and powerful wine,
with rich fruits still dominated by steely acidity.
Wait until 2019 and it will be a powerhouse of complex, ripe and structured flavors. New England Wine
and Spirits Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $89
94
Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2012
Blanchot Grand Cru (Chablis). With its perfect south-facing exposure, the Blanchot Grand Cru
produces a warm wine. It is opulent, a power of ripe
Chardonnay and spicy wood. Combining rich yellow
plums, citrus and apricot, topped with wood, this is
a structured wine to age. Drink from 2018. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $85
94
Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2012
Les Clos Grand Cru (Chablis). Coming from
what is often seen as the grandest of the Grand Cru,
this is a powerful and rich wine. Steel and minerality go with dense ripe citrus and apple fruits that
are touched with wood spice. The wine is a gorgeous
mix of fruit and structure. Drink from 2018. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $92
94
Domaine Louis Moreau 2010 Les Clos Grand
Cru (Chablis). This intensely young wine
holds considerable potential. Weight and rich fruits
are still developing alongside the firm, mineral and
steel structure. It’s impressively rich, packed with
green fruits and laced with citrus. Drink from 2018.
Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
94
La Chablisienne 2011 Les Clos Grand Cru
(Chablis). The most serious of the Chablis
Grand Crus has produced here a wine that combines
that firmer nature with generous yellow fruits, toast
and tender acidity. A strong sense of structure partners with a steely core and mineral texture that
firms up the fruit and promises aging. Drink from
2017. Fruit of the Vines. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $75
94
La Chablisienne 2011 Les Preuses Grand Cru
(Chablis). Impressively rich, this is smooth,
dense and opulent in its concentration. It’s full both
of fresh acidity and toasty rich flavors that fill the
mouth. The background is the steely texture that
gives the wine a fine bite at this young stage. Drink
from 2019. Multiple U.S. Importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $75
94
Pascal Bouchard 2012 Vaudésir Grand Cru
(Chablis). This firm and steely wine expresses power and minerality. Wood-aging toastiness and a taste of honey give a sweeter side to the
crisp, tight texture. This powerful, dense wine will
age for many years. Drink from 2019. New England
Wine and Spirits Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $69
93
Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2012
Valmur Grand Cru (Chablis). Valmur is considered to produce a generous style of Grand Cru,
and this wine lives up to that. It’s warm and rounded while never losing touch with the crisper side
of a great Chablis. The ripe white and yellow fruits
are on the rich side, cut with citrus acidity and underlined by wood aging. Drink from 2018. Frederick
Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $85
93
Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2012
Vaudésir Grand Cru (Chablis). Wood and
fruit balance in this rich and full wine. The yellow
and citrus fruits give a good mix of ripeness and a
fresher, more mineral character. The toast, just the
right amount, gives the warmth and polish the wine
needs. The result is a serious wine, still young, to be
drunk from 2018. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.
Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $93
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Domaine Louis Moreau 2010 Vaudésir Grand
Cru (Chablis). Just lightly wood aged, this
ripe wine from the fine 2010 vintage is opulent and
generous as well as firmly structured. Tropical fruits
come through the toast and steely edge, broadening and giving the wine great richness and density.
At the end, the wine brings out acidity and a tight
texture that promises aging. Drink from 2017. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
93
La Chablisienne 2011 Blanchot Grand Cru
(Chablis). Still tight and closed, this has the
potential to be a very fine Grand Cru. It has a tight,
steely character, a texture that brings out nervy
minerality and the beginnings of rich citrus and
white fruits. With the light touch of wood aging,
this will age well. Drink from 2017. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $75
93
Pascal Bouchard 2012 Blanchot Grand Cru
(Chablis). Smooth and wonderfully ripe,
this honeyed wine has weight and a velvet texture
that rolls around the mouth. The tight acidity and
crisp texture are enveloped by the embrace of the
ripe fruits and generous feel. It’s deceptively ready
to drink but needs to age, so wait until 2018. Next
Level Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $69
92
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 CortonCharlemagne. The power and structure of
a Corton-Charlemagne are very evident in this firm
and closed wine. At this young stage, it is all about
the concentrated texture and weight. The acidity
and the rich fruits will come later. Drink from 2018.
Misa Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $311
90
Domaine Vrignaud 2012 Blanchot Grand Cru
(Chablis). There are weight and richness
here, along with warm yellow fruit and balanced
acidity. The wine is ripe with hints of wood aging
giving spice and rounding out the fresh, steely character. It’s worth aging, so drink from 2017. Serge
Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $80
CHABLIS
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Pascal Bouchard 2012 Les Vieilles Vignes
Montmains Premier Cru (Chablis). A concentrated, rich wine, very mineral and textured in
character. It comes from old vines that give a dense
character and layers of citrus, apple and yellow fruit
flavors. A strong steely edge, very taut, still shows
the wine’s youth. Drink from 2018. Editors’ Choice.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $36
93
Damien et Romain Bouchard 2012 Vaillons
Premier Cru (Chablis). This is densely textured with steely minerality and tight acidity. Citrus and the crispest green apples give bright, fresh
illumination. It’s a very fine wine that needs to
age. Drink from 2017. Acme Wine Group. Editors’
Choice. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $36
93
La Chablisienne 2012 Montée de Tonnerre
Premier Cru (Chablis). Complex and rich,
this is full of tangy fruits, with a dense structure
that brings out weight, minerality and a chewy core
of zesty citrus. It very crisp and fruity at this stage
and needs to develop its many other flavors. Drink
from 2017. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $38
93
Pascal Bouchard 2012 Les Vieilles Vignes
Fourchaume Premier Cru (Chablis). From
four parcels of vines, some more than 50 years old,
this is powerfully rich. It has weight, intense structure and acidity, and a racy, nervy texture. With the
concentrated flavors, it’s going to age well. Drink
from 2018. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $40
93
Pascal Bouchard 2012 Mont de Milieu Premier Cru (Chablis). Crisp and edgy, this is a
ripe while crisp and cool wine. With bright acidity
and tangy lemon zest, it’s a still young and full of
citrus fruits. The mineral, taut texture promises
some good aging. Drink from 2017. New England
Wine and Spirits Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
93
Simonnet-Febvre 2012 Montée de Tonnerre
Premier Cru (Chablis). For full review see
page 6. Cellar Selection.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
93
Simonnet-Febvre 2012 Vaillons Premier Cru
(Chablis). For full review see page 6.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
92
Damien et Romain Bouchard 2012 Montée de
Tonnerre Premier Cru (Chablis). A soft and
round exterior hides the concentrated, structured
core that sets this wine on a long road to maturity.
Creamed pears, quince and tight acidity are developing to come through and fill the wine with a crisp
character allied to steeliness. Drink from 2017. T.
Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $40
92
Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2012
Cuvée Guy Moreau Vaillon Premier Cru (Chablis). Made in honor of Christian Moreau’s father,
Guy, this is produced from 70-year-old vines that
bestow serious concentration and density. It has as
WINEMAG.COM | 21
BUYINGGUIDE
much yellow fruit ripeness as citrus and minerality. Put together, these elements give an ageworthy
wine. Drink from 2018. Frederick Wildman & Sons,
Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $60
92
Domaine Louis Moreau 2012 Vaillons Premier
Cru (Chablis). Yellow fruit aromas promise richness. That’s delivered with the apricot and
mango flavors, balanced acidity and a ripe while
crisp aftertaste. The wine is ripe, full in the mouth.
It’s still young, and will be better drunk from 2017.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
bright apple and citrus fruits layered with toast
from wood aging. Under the broad exterior, the wine
is developing more tangy, zesty fruits and a tight
texture. It needs to age to bring everything together.
Drink from 2017. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
91
Pascal Bouchard 2013 Montmains Premier
Cru (Chablis). Totally fresh, this is crisp and
packed with citrus. A complex, tight texture brings
out nervy acidity, a strongly mineral character and
a firm structure. Age this youthful wine and drink
from 2018. New England Wine and Spirits Inc.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $34
90
Romain Bouchard 2012 Vau de Vey Premier
Cru (Chablis). Intensely bright and crisp,
this also has a full weight of fruitiness. Apples,
creamed pears and a light touch of vanilla give a
complex, dense wine that’s so fresh at the end. It’s
still youthful; better wait until 2016. T. Edward
Wines Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $39
89
Domaine Ellevin 2012 Vosgros Premier Cru
(Chablis). Weight and a rich character bring
out caramel and apricot fruits as well as a crisp citrus core. It’s warm, round and ripe, and still fresh
while full in the mouth. Age this very drinkable
wine until 2015. Good Company Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
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La Chablisienne 2012 Fourchaume Premier
Cru (Chablis). While the wine has all the
steely crispness you expect in a Chablis, it also offers ripe fruitiness that gives a full-bodied, round
character. Acidity cuts through to give a lift to the
fruit and to the tight texture of this young wine.
It should age until 2015. Multiple U.S. Importers.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $36
La Chablisienne 2012 Mont de Milieu Premier
Cru (Chablis). From one of the best known
of the Chablis Premier Crus, this generous, rounded wine delivers ripe yellow fruitiness and a full
mouth feel. White peaches give the wine warmth,
crispened with sliced apple freshness and a touch of
citrus. Drink from 2017. Grape Expectations (CA).
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $38
92
La Chablisienne 2012 Vaulorent Premier Cru
(Chablis). The wine is soft, fruity and opulent, with apples and a touch of melon. It also has
the fine Chablis steeliness that gives a crisp edge to
the warm, ripe and rounded fruit. It still needs time
to bring out the full fruitiness. Drink from 2017.
Multiple U.S. Importers. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $36
92
Simonnet-Febvre 2012 Mont de Milieu Premier Cru (Chablis). The wine is fresh, its
baked apple and green plum fruit cut with intense
citrus. The vineyard, with its pure chalk soil, shows
strongly in the minerality and steely texture of the
wine, promising aging. Drink this complex wine
from 2016. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
91
La Chablisienne 2012 Côte de Lechet Premier
Cru (Chablis). The cool Côte de Lechet, facing north, produces a classically steely Chablis.
This is still young, very tight and nervy, its acidity prominent even though the texture is ripe. Aging
will bring balance between the crisp character and
the richer green and white fruits. Drink from 2018.
Fruit of the Vines. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $33
91
La Chablisienne 2012 Vaillons Premier Cru
(Chablis). Soft and full-bodied, this offers
22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
Pascal Bouchard 2012 Beauroy Premier Cru
(Chablis). The warm Beauroy vineyard has
produced a rich, full-bodied and concentrated wine.
It has a ripe structure that’s cut with mineral notes,
honey and apple and pear flavors. The wine is still
developing and needs to age. Drink from 2017. New
England Wine and Spirits Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $34
Simonnet-Febvre 2012 Fourchaume Premier
Cru (Chablis). For full review see page 10.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
91
Simonnet-Febvre 2012 Montmains Premier
Cru (Chablis). The wine is tight and closed,
hiding its natural fruitiness. For the moment, what
is showing is acidity and a strongly mineral texture.
This complex wine needs aging to fill out the structure. Drink from 2017. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $38
90
Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2012
Vaillon Premier Cru (Chablis). This is a
steely wine, crisp and very textured. Lemon zest
and acidity are given structure by the mineral character and by the touches of wood. It’s a wine with
a future, so drink from 2016. Frederick Wildman &
Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $47
90
Domaine Ellevin 2012 Vaucoupin Premier
Cru (Chablis). The wine is still young, with
a dense and full-bodied series of flavors that are
still developing. As it matures the ripe yellow fruits
will come through strongly, assisted by the citrus
zest and contrasting with the tight, nervy texture.
Expect the wine to be ready in 2016. Good Company
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
90
Domaine Louis Moreau 2012 Vaulignot Premier Cru (Chablis). The small, little-known
Vaulignot premier cru has produced a juicy, while
still mineral wine. Ripe red currant fruit and pineapple flavors give a rich character. It’s a delicious
wine to drink young like this, although the structure
does promise aging until 2019. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
La Chablisienne 2011 Les Vénérables Vieilles
Vignes (Chablis). From old vines, this concentrated and ripe Chablis has rich red apple and
pear flavors that are gently cut with a citrus element. Dense texture gives this wine great quality
and structure. Drink from 2015. Grape Expectations
(CA). —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $27
La Chablisienne 2012 La Sereine (Chablis).
This fruity wine is still developing. It hasn’t
achieved the full ripe fruit experience, still showing structure and a mineral, terroir character. Drink
this textured wine from 2016. Fruit of the Vines.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
87
Domaine de Biéville 2013 Chablis. Bright and
light, this offers yellow fruits that are cut
with citrus to give a clean character as well as richness. Drink now for its crisp aftertaste and warm
texture. K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
87
Domaine Louis Moreau 2013 Chablis. The
wine has typical cool, mineral notes along
with green fruits and tight acidity. It’s still very
young, showing fruit before the potential of the
structure. With an attractive aromatic character
and a crisp aftertaste, this could age until 2017.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
87
La Chablisienne 2012 La Pierrelée (Chablis).
Simple Chablis, but one that is full of ripe
and creamy fruit. In the background, a more tangy,
zesty and mineral texture brings out the northern
cool vineyards. Otherwise it is about yellow fruits
and sliced red apple. Drink now. Multiple U.S. Importers. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $23
87
Romain Bouchard 2012 Le Grand Bois (Chablis). Soft and creamy, this has a smooth
texture with vanilla and baked apple flavors cut
through with full acidity. It feels rich, full in the
mouth, fresh and ripe at the same time. Drink from
2015. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $29
OTHER CHABLIS AND GRAND
AUXERROIS WINES
92
Olivier Leflaive 2012 Sous le Dos d’Ane Premier Cru (Meursault-Blagny). While the
wine appears initially generous, it then reveals a
strongly steely, tight and mineral character. Rich
fruits give a full and rounded exterior, while the
more textured center shows how well this wine will
age. Honey and acidity reinforce the poised contrast. Drink from 2017. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Simonnet-Febvre 2012 Chablis. This is a
crisp style of Chablis, bringing out a steely
side while keeping fruitiness to the fore. Apple and
freshly sliced melon are given texture by the citrus
zest and bright acidity. Drink now. Louis Latour Inc.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
Simonnet-Febvre 2012 Vézelay (Chablis).
From one of the small wine areas close to
Chablis, this delicious, steely, crisp wine has fine
acidity and a tight texture. It’s cool, fresh and refreshing with a light, dancing aftertaste. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
Domaine Ellevin 2013 Chablis. A steely Chablis, this is also fruity, very crisp and tight.
It has all the right cool characters of a northern
Chardonnay, with bright citrus and the mineral
texture. It’s ready to drink. Good Company Wines.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
86
La Chablisienne 2012 Pas si Petit (Chablis).
There’s a deliciously refreshing feel to this
light, fruity wine. Crisp, juicy citrus and ripe apple
flavors are right up front, allowing just a small space
for a more steely texture. The wine is quite ready to
drink. Multiple U.S. Importers. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
85
Domaine Vrignaud 2012 Fourchaume Premier Cru (Chablis). This soft and gentle wine
doesn’t show great character. Wood and yellow
fruits appear timidly through the rounded texture.
Drink now and until 2016. Serge Doré Selections.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
85
Simonnet-Febvre 2012 Chitry (Chablis). An
attractive wine from Chitry, south-west of
Chablis, this is fresh, soft and fruity. It lacks complexity, but does have bright apple and pear flavors
and refreshing acidity. It’s a great apéritif wine,
ready to drink now. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
84
Pascal Bouchard 2013 Le Classique (Chablis). With flavors of vanilla and caramel,
this is rounded and full in the mouth. It passes up
on a steely, edgy texture in favor of a warm and rich
character. The result is a wine that is soft and needs
to be drunk now. New England Wine and Spirits
Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $24
Domaine Louis Moreau 2013 Petit Chablis.
The outer fringes of Chablis produce Petit Chablis, a light style of wine that, like this, can
be fruity and drinkable young. Fresh acidity and a
light, crisp aftertaste offer refreshment. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
La Chablisienne 2013 Saint-Bris. Fruity and
lightly herbaceous, this is a crisp wine.
Gooseberry and pink grapefruit flavors are rounded
out with a fresh apricot and tightened with minerality. It’s ready to drink. Multiple U.S. Importers.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
Domaine Chatelain 2013 Petit Chablis. A
simple, fruity wine, this offers attractive
citrus flavors and a ripe texture. Yellow fruits add
richness while the acidity shoots through at the
end. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
84
Simonnet-Febvre 2012 Saint-Bris. A soft,
fruity wine, this features attractive citrus
and peach flavors. It’s light and fresh with a crisp,
bright aftertaste. Saint-Bris is the only appellation
in Burgundy to produce Sauvignon Blanc. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
MEURSAULT
Manuel Olivier 2012 Premier Cru (Meursault).
This is a blend of grapes from a number of
Premier Cru parcels. It gives a rich, ripe and fruity
wine with a good depth of flavor and strong signs of
the wood aging. At this stage, the wood is leaving
some bitterness and toast, but this will round out.
Drink from 2017. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $80
Olivier Leflaive 2012 Meursault. This fullbodied wine has swathes of ripe yellow
fruits and juicy wood and acidity. Under this opulent surface, a more steely character gives the wine
structure that will allow it to age. It will be ready
to drink by 2016. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $36
88
Domaine Jean Monnier et Fils 2012 MersaultCharmes Premier Cru (Meursault). Wood
and ripe fruitiness are the hallmarks of this open,
rounded wine.Attractive apple and citrus flavors
give a lemon zest character. At the end, the acidity
comes in strongly. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $68
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Olivier Leflaive 2012 Genevrières Premier Cru
(Meursault). The wood is still very present
in this young wine, giving acidity and creamy, toasty
character. The wine, as it develops, will become ripe,
full of yellow fruits and honey while always keeping
that great acidity. Since it needs to age, drink from
2018. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $144
Olivier Leflaive 2012 Charmes Premier Cru
(Meursault). This is full of steely acidity
as well as complex fruit. It is rich, full of toast and
spice that show up the generous swathes of yellow
fruits that are just beginning to show their glory.
It will develop over many years. Drink from 2017.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $113
92
Olivier Leflaive 2012 Poruzots Premier Cru
(Meursault). At this stage, this is a wooddominated wine. Its potential is considerable because beneath this wood and toast awaits a wonderful range of ripe apples, apricots and mango that
promise to develop into a full, generous wine. Keep
until 2018. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $122
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 Meursault.
Still showing strong toast aromas, this is
slowly developing into a full-bodied, ripe and generous wine. With its apricot and yellow peach flavors,
it has a rounded, ripe feel that’s contrasted with the
fresh acidity that bursts out at the end. Drink now
for pleasure, but better to wait until 2016. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $86
Manuel Olivier 2012 Meursault. A ripe
wine, this is full in the mouth and full of
fruit. Apricots and lemons go well together for a
rich while crisp mouthful. The wood aging over 18
months only shows fleetingly, leaving fruit as the
main thrust. It finishes with plenty of fresh acidity.
Drink from 2016. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET
94
Louis Jadot 2012 Domaine Duc de Magenta
Clos de la Garenne Premier Cru (PulignyMontrachet). Already beautiful, this comes from
an estate that’s managed by Louis Jadot in Puligny-Montrachet, always producing fine wines. It’s
smooth and toasty, although it is already showing
ripe yellow fruits and fragrant acidity. Although
WINEMAG.COM | 23
BUYINGGUIDE
drinkable now, it really needs to age, so keep until
2018. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $125
texture. It needs to age, drink from 2016. Frederick
Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $72
as the creamy, smooth texture. It’s quite ready to
drink. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Olivier Leflaive 2012 Les Pucelles Premier Cru
(Puligny-Montrachet). Intense fruit shines
through the toast and youthful acidity of this opulent wine. A generous structure will develop in concentration, bringing out the rich apricot and pear
flavors. This is a grand wine, waiting to age. Drink
from 2018. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $163
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2011 Les Morgeots Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet).
This rich and full-bodied wine brings out the structure of a Chassagne premier cru. It has generous
fruits and a toasty structure. Drink from 2017. Misa
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $143
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 PernandVergelesses. This is rich and surprisingly
warm for the normally cool appellation of Pernand
Vergelesses. It makes for an attractive, ripe and
creamy wine that’s been given a wood aging. But it
doesn’t have a sense of place. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $54
OTHER BEAUNE WINES
RULLY
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Olivier Leflaive 2012 Les Folatières Premier
Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). Juicy acidity cuts
through this firmly structured, mineral wine. Great
swathes of fresh citrus and ripe apricots go with the
toastiness and dense texture. This is a very terroirdriven wine with a long future. Drink from 2018.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $159
Olivier Leflaive 2012 Puligny-Montrachet.
The wine has a great balance between its
rich fruits and the wood aging. It shows concentration, the ripe peach and apricots full in the mouth
and laced with acidity and full-bodied fruitiness.
It’s both serious and full of charm, a wine that’s developing well and should be ready to drink by 2016.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $80
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET
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Olivier Leflaive 2012 Clos Saint-Marc Premier
Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet). Combining
richness and structure, this is a beautifully ripe
wine. The wood aging is still showing strongly, although there is already opulent competition with
the apricot and peach fruits that are cut with orange zest acidity. A strongly textured charactergives
the wine an impressive shape and long-term aging.
Drink from 2019. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.
Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $103
93
Olivier Leflaive 2012 Abbaye de Morgeot Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet). The wine
has so much structure and tension. It is wound up
and tight, full of acidity as well as the potential for
rich fruits. A steely texture powers up the concentration of this wine, which has a strongly toasty
component at this stage. Drink from 2018. Frederick
Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $113
90
Olivier Leflaive 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet. The wine is structured and concentrated, showing a strong sense of minerality. Citrus
and ripe apple fruits are complemented by richer
apricot, always cut through with acidity and a tense
24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
Louis Jadot 2012 Le Clos Blanc Beaune Grèves
Premier Cru (Beaune). Part of the domaine of
the Gagey family that runs Louis Jadot, this dense,
wood-dominated wine has an austere character
at this stage. Ripe, potentially full of yellow and
creamy white fruits, it will always have a serious
side. Drink from 2018. Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $75
Albert Morot 2012 Aigrots Premier Cru
(Beaune). Aigrots is one of the Beaune premier crus that produces white as well red wines.
In its white manifestation, it is full and dense with
structure and ripe fruitiness. A rich wine, it has textured white fruits that are underlined by toastiness.
Drink from 2017. Robert Kacher Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $72
Louis Jadot 2012 Clos des Guettes Premier
Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune). Strongly woodaged, this is a ripe, toasty wine. The citrus and
creamed apple fruits are still working their way
through the wood flavors. It’s going to be richly
fruity wine with a round texture that is cut by acidity. Give it time and drink from 2018. Kobrand.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $54
Olivier Leflaive 2012 Les Cloux Premier Cru
(Rully). Grown on chalk soil, this has a
steely core that cuts through the more rounded,
ripe tropical fruits. It’s full and rich, balancing acidity and the full fruits. The aftertaste combines toast
and freshness. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $39
Olivier Leflaive 2012 Rabourcé Premier Cru
(Rully). This is a gloriously juicy wine, full
of melon, apricot and the brightest citrus flavors.
This fruit salad is given structure by the wood and
the tangy, zesty edge. It drinks well now, still young
and fresh, but will be better aged. Drink from 2016.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $37
Domaine Chanzy 2012 En Rosey (Rully).
Smooth and soft wine, this is filled with
apricot and green plum fruits. A clean cut of acidity
brings out fresh acidity as well as a steely texture at
the end. It is ready to drink. Bridge Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
MONTAGNY
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Olivier Leflaive 2012 Chatenière Premier Cru
(Saint-Aubin). This structured, mineral
wine offers tight acidity and strikingly fresh fruits.
It’s full of wood, juicy apple skins and lime juice giving a fresh, taut character. Still young, it needs to
age, so drink from 2017. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Olivier Leflaive 2012 En Remilly Premier Cru
(Saint-Aubin). With strong wood flavors
giving structure to this otherwise fruity wine, this is
a work in progress. It has delicious juicy peach and
melon fruit, a full and rounded character and tight,
refreshing final acidity. But wait until 2016 for the
wine to be ready. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Nuiton-Beaunoy 2012 Bourgogne Hautes
Côtes de Beaune. From vines in the southern
half of the Côte d’Or, this is a ripe, perfumed wine.
Lemon flavors are rounded out by apricot as well
Olivier Leflaive 2012 Premier Cru (Montagny). A strong wood element gives a toasty,
lightly burnt character to the wine. It’s only underneath that there is a rich weight of apricots and
peaches and balancing acidity. The wine needs time,
drink from 2016. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Vignerons de Buxy 2011 Les Chaniots Premier
Cru (Montagny). A full, fruity wine, this is
softly textured and creamily ready to drink. Lime
juice and crisp apples are underlined by the faint
flavor of oak from wood aging. The acidity gives
wonderfully drinkable freshness. Ruby Wines Inc.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $28
Vignerons de Buxy 2012 Buissonnier (Montagny). This attractive and fruity wine from
the Côte Chalonnaise has ripe melon and sliced pear
flavors along with orange zest. Full and rounded, it’s
ready to drink. Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $24
POUILLY-FUISSÉ
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Château de Fuissé 2012 Les Combettes
(Pouilly-Fuissé). Dense and rich, this shows
structure as well as powerful fruits. It comes from
a parcel of chalk soil at the southern end of Pouilly
Fuissé. The wine is firm, concentrated, packed with
yellow fruits as well as layers of acidity and toast
structure. Drink from 2016. Frederick Wildman &
Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $70
93
Château de Fuissé 2012 Tête de Cru (PouillyFuissé). Slow to show its full potential, this
will be a opulent, ripe wine that will retain a sense
of structure. With rich yellow fruits and melon giving the immediate attraction, the backbone is firm
with a wood flavor and mineral textures. It’s for aging, so drink from 2017. Frederick Wildman & Sons,
Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
92
Château de Fuissé 2012 Le Clos (Pouilly-Fuissé). Dominated at this young stage by wood,
this is a potentially rich and creamy wine. Its structure shines through, full and generous. The fruits
and the acidity still have to develop, but already the
wine is showing the rounded character of a great
Pouilly Fuissé. It’s a wine to age, so drink from 2016.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $70
90
Domaine Pascal et Mireille Renaud 2013 Cuvée Vieilles Vignes (Pouilly-Fuissé). Smooth
and honeyed, this is a ripe, full-bodied wine. Wood
gives a rounded texture, while the broad apricot and
white peach flavors give a rich feel. It’s a generous
wine that will be better in 2016. K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
89
Cave des Grands Crus Blancs 2013 PouillyFuissé. Mineral and young, this tight, nervy
wine needs to develop. Apple and pear flavors are
ripe while also bringing out attractive acidity. The
texture is still firm and steely, needing time. Drink
from 2016. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $29
89
Louis Jadot 2013 Pouilly-Fuissé. This rich,
wood-fermented and aged wine is very
ripe, aromatic and smoothly textured. The terroir
reveals itself in a mineral edge from the chalk soil
that also comes into play in the tight acidity. Full in
the mouth, it’s ready to drink now, but will be better
from 2016. Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $28
86
Jaffelin 2013 Pouilly-Fuissé. Structured,
mineral and tense, this is a classic Pouilly
Fuissé. It has lemon and crisp sliced white fruits,
very linear in character with a bright, tight texture.
The wine is young and could age until 2016. Epic
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
85
Barton & Guestier 2013 Passeport (PouillyFuissé). This soft wine shows gentle Chardonnay flavors. Toast and yellow fruits are blended
with minerality to give a ripe texture that doesn’t
need to age. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $26
OTHER MÂCONNAIS WINES
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Cave des Grands Crus Blancs 2013 Vieilles Vignes (Pouilly-Vinzelles). From vines that are
up to 70 years old, this is a single-parcel wine. It is
rich, with some good concentration and a mineral
edge. Ripe apricot and apple fruits are combined
with a tight acidity that suggests the need to age.
Drink from late 2015. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
87
Château de Fuissé 2012 Saint-Véran. This
full-bodied, ripe and generous wine is already open for drinking. It has rich green and white
fruits, sliced pear and quince with a topping of lime
juice. Toast gives a broader character. Drink from
2015. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $32
87
Domaine Pascal et Mireille Renaud 2013 Mâcon-Villages. Soft, creamy and immediately
drinkable, this is a delicious, ripe Chardonnay. Yellow fruits, a soft and juicy texture and a cut of citrus acidity give balance and a lively, fresh aftertaste.
K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
86
Jaffelin 2013 Les Villages de Jaffelin (Mâcon-Péronne). One of the lesser-known of
the many Mâcon appellations, Péronne is close to
Clessé. The wine is smooth, ripe and fruity, with a
creamed pear and lightly lemon flavor. With a hint
of minerality, it could age until 2016. Epic Wines.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
85
Cave des Grands Crus Blancs 2013 Solaire
(Mâcon-Vinzelles). Soft and round, it offers an attractive white flower aromatic character,
yellow fruits and a touch of citrus. It’s smooth and
already very drinkable. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
85
Louis Jadot 2013 Mâcon-Villages. Bright and
vivid, this crisp wine is made without oak.
It is all fruitiness, crisp apples and grapefruit, with
a tangy orange zest texture. It’s ready to drink. Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
BOURGOGNE
90
Olivier Leflaive 2012 Oncle Vincent (Bourgogne). Vincent Leflaive was the uncle of
Olivier Leflaive. The wine, from old vines, is made in
homage to him. Impressively rich and full-bodied,
it has some toastiness as well as fresh acidity and
apple and citrus flavors. It’s tight at the moment,
showing a steely character that will soften. Drink
from 2016. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
88
Olivier Leflaive 2012 Les Sétilles (Bourgogne). Beautifully rich and round, this
ripe, apricot and pear flavored wine has a broad,
creamy texture. With its fruit, it is ready to drink,
but will improve 2017–2018. Frederick Wildman &
Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $27
87
Vincent 2012 JJ Bourgogne Blanc (Bourgogne). Full-bodied and ripe, this offers
fruitiness that has been filled out with wood aging.
It’s a good expression of Chardonnay from southern
Burgundy, with ripe yellow fruits and citrus and a
juicy-toasty aftertaste. Drink now. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
86
Louis Jadot 2013 Chardonnay (Bourgogne).
Jadot’s take on Burgundy Chardonnay is
fruity and creamy. Juicy, intense acidity comes from
the crisp apple and white peach fruits. A touch of
wood aging softens the fruit and broadens the character of the wine. Drink now. Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
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Jaffelin 2013 Les Chapitres de Jaffelin Chardonnay (Bourgogne). This is a soft, gently
fruity and very lightly textured wine. It is perfumed
with creamed apple flavors and some fresh acidity
at the end. Drink now. Epic Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $23
BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ
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Manuel Olivier 2012 Vieilles Vignes (Bourgogne Aligoté). The crispness of Aligoté is
well expressed in this fruity, citrus and sliced apple
flavored wine. It is bright, with a mineral texture
along with some weight from aging on the lees until bottling. It’s very ready to drink although it will
soften and round out from 2015. USA Wine West.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
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Manuel Olivier 2012 Bourgogne Aligoté. This
soft wine shows some of the Aligoté crispness that has become creamy and smooth. There
are touches of yellow fruits as well as lively acidity
and a gentle aftertaste. Drink now. USA Wine West.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
WINEMAG.COM | 25
BUYINGGUIDE
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Vignerons de Buxy 2013 Buissonnier (Bourgogne Aligoté). Alitgoté, the other white
grape of Burgundy, can produce attractive herbal
wines that have considerable freshness. This is
crisp and lively, showing citrus and earthiness. It’s
not for aging, so drink now. Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
OTHER WHITE BURGUNDY
88
Manuel Olivier 2012 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes
de Nuits. A ripe and full-bodied wine, this
has good depth of flavor from its lees and wood aging. A creamy texture comes along with a tangy cool
fruitiness that has lemon and bitter orange flavors.
It could be drunk now, but with its still crisp acidity, it will be better from the end of 2015. Multiple
U.S. importers. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $27
85
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2011 Colette (Coteaux Bourguignons). The wine is fresh and
crisp with a tangy texture that suggests a strongly
mineral character. Slowly, a more creamy feel comes
through, bringing out melon and pear flavors. Drink
this attractive wine now. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $22
BURGUNDY
RED BURGUNDY
GRANDS CRUS
96
Louis Jadot 2012 Echézeaux. Hugely dense,
packed with ripe and generous black fruits,
this is already showing its serious side with complex tannins and a dark, brooding texture that also
brings out the wood aging. The fruit, a gorgeous array of perfumed black plums and damsons, is developing well, just hinting at future greatness. Drink
from 2022. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $280
94
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 BonnesMares. Both rich and opulent, this complex
and dense wine is packed with the richest strawberries and a firm, black core of tannin. The velvet
casing of the wine is ripe and generous while still
needing many years to age. This is a wine for the
long-haul, don’t touch before 2020. Misa Imports.
Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $614
93
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 Corton Vergennes. The Corton hill has a number of red
Grand Cru sites, including Vergennes, which lies at
the western end. The wine has power, although its
more dominant character is richness. It’s packed
with red fruits, laced with dark tannins and spice,
and freshened with black currant acidity. It’s a wine
26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
for aging, drink from 2018. Misa Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $201
93
Manuel Olivier 2012 Clos de Vougeot. Inevitably, coming from a Grand Cru vineyard,
this wine is still very young. It has the beginnings
of ripe black plum fruits that will develop well. For
the moment, the tannins and structure show most
strongly. Give this concentrated wine until 2019.
USA Wine West. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $180
92
Manuel Olivier 2011 Clos de Vougeot. Powerful, with tannins that are seamlessly woven
into the fruitiness, this is a rounded, ripe and concentrated wine. The berry fruits and the juicy damsons are as important as the generous, soft texture.
The wine will develop over the medium-term; drink
from 2017. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $180
90
Nuiton-Beaunoy 2011 Clos du Chapitre Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). The twoacre Clos du Chapitre vineyard is in the center of
the Gevrey-Chambertin village. The wine is rich,
full-bodied, full of red fruits, dark cherries and a
rounded, perfumed character. It’s powerful with its
firm structure and complex balance between fruit
and acidity. Drink from 2017. Fruit of the Vines, Inc.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
88
Manuel Olivier 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin.
Retaining a good sense of structure, this is
also a relatively light and fresh Gevrey-Chambertin.
It has plenty of raspberry and red plum flavors and
lively acidity at the end. Drink from 2015. USA
Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $70
VOSNE-ROMANÉE
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Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 Clos de Vougeot. Every Burgundy merchant seems to
have a Clos de Vougeot. The Aegerter’s version is
relatively light, as much fruit as tannins even while
it is young. Berry fruits comes forward, while the
layer of tannin is in a supporting role. It’s a solid
wine, not one that has a long future. Drink from
2018. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $369
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2011 Corton Vergennes. While there are still plenty of firm
tannins, the wine also is now showing its red berry fruits and enticing texture. Great acidity cuts
through the structure, giving freshness to the naturally dense character of this Grand Cru wine. It’s for
aging, but not for too long, so drink from 2017. Misa
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $184
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN
94
Louis Jadot 2012 Lavaux Saint-Jacques Premier Cru (Gevrey-Chambertin). Situated at
the entrance to a break in the hillside of the Côte
d’Or, allowing cool air to come in from the west,
Lavaux Saint-Jacques produces severely structured
wines that need aging. This prime example shows
the solid, dense structure and the powerful tannins
that dominate the wine. Underneath, the opulent
black fruits promise aging. Drink from 2020. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $150
91
Manuel Olivier 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin. Already beautiful and rich, this has power, concentration and many layers of ripe berry fruits. Red
plums also come through strongly, bringing in juicy
acidity. This dense and muscular wine should age.
Drink from 2017. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $70
Manuel Olivier 2012 Les Damaudes (VosneRomanée). Old vines give this single-parcel
wine its power and concentration. Long wood aging
hasn’t diminished the richness of the fruit, the juicy
acidity and the succulent berry flavors. It’s a wine
that’s full and structured, likely to age well. Drink
from 2018. USA Wine West. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $80
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 Vosne-Romanée. Richly juicy, this offers a combination
of ripe red and black fruits and dark, dense tannins.
It’s a solid, complex wine with a strong sense of
minerality as well as opulent fruitiness. Drink this
potentially delicious wine from 2017. Misa Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
91
Manuel Olivier 2012 Vosne-Romanée. From a
small parcel called Les Mazières Basses, this
is a rare Village wine in an area packed with Premier
and Grand Crus. It has power and richness as well as
a smooth texture that is already velvety. It’s ripe and
concentrated, with juicy black currant and berry
fruits, finishing dry and firm. Drink from 2018. USA
Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $70
91
Manuel Olivier 2011 Les Damaudes (VosneRomanée). A sumptuous wine from a vintage
that is fruity and generous. It does show some of
the structure of the appellation, but the juicy cherry
and ripe strawberry flavors dominate. It’s going to
develop into a rich and early-maturing wine. Drink
from 2017. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $80
90
Manuel Olivier 2011 Vosne-Romanée. While
this wine shows plenty of the structure and
richness associated with Vosne-Romanée, it also
has an open, warm character that shows it developing quickly. Ripe plums and deft tannins combine
with attractive acidity to give a full-bodied balanced
wine. Drink from 2017. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $70
88
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2011 Vosne-Romanée. This structured wine also has bright
red fruits and juicy acidity. It’s an attractive bottle
now, the tannins showing through while leaving
room for an elegant, leisurely aftertaste. Drink from
2015. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
NUITS-ST.-GEORGES
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Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 Les
Damodes Premier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges).
Very young, this firm and dense wine is terroir-driven. Strong minerality and black fruits are sustained
by tense tannins and a satisfyingly rich fruitiness.
The acidity at the end brings out the freshness of
the reds in 2012. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $154
92
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2011 Les
Damodes Premier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges).
This ripe, full and structured wine is developing
well. Rich, dark fruits come complete with juicy
acidity and a complex, dense texture. Structure and
fruit together promise aging and this wine will be
ready to drink in 2016. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
91
Manuel Olivier 2012 Nuits-St.-Georges. Based
in Nuits Saint-Georges, Manuel Olivier understands the appellation well. That is shown in
this bottling that manages to combine the structure
of a Nuits wine with dark fruits and a juicy texture.
It’s rich while also firm. Drink from 2017. USA Wine
West. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50
90
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 Nuits-St.Georges. From Aegerter’s own vineyards,
this firm wine is packed with tannins as well as concentrated fruits. It shows solid structure and dark
fruits, with a juicy, ripe aftertaste. Drink from 2017.
Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $100
90
Manuel Olivier 2012 Premier Cru (Nuits-St.Georges). Solid tannins and an initially
austere structure set this wine on the path to aging.
It is still lean, showing its wood aging while also giving the promise of ripe fruits. It’s a dark wine at this
stage, one that will brighten up to bring out greater
fruitiness. Drink from 2018. USA Wine West. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $80
89
Domaine A. Machard de Gramont 2012 Les
Damodes Premier Cru (Nuits-St.-Georges).
This is a structured wine, firmly tannic and with
considerable wood flavors at this stage. Plenty of
rich fruit lies in the background, giving promise for
the future. With those red berry flavors and fine
acidity in place, this will be a solid, dense wine.
Drink from 2018. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $80
89
Manuel Olivier 2011 Nuits-St.-Georges. Ripe
with a core of dry tannins, this is a typical
foursquare Nuits-Saint-Georges. Structure gives
shape to the black fruits and acidity that are developing well. Already in balance, it will be drinkable
from 2016. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
89
Manuel Olivier 2011 Premier Cru (Nuits-St.Georges). From a number of Premier Cru
vineyards, the wine is solid and dark. Firm, dry tannins still dominate and give promise for aging. At
the same time, black plum fruit flavors show a riper
side and add richness to the mix. Drink from 2016.
USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $80
BOURGOGNE HAUTES
CÔTES DE NUITS
85
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 Les Dames
Huguettes (Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de
Nuits). A light-colored wine, this reflects the cool
character of the Hautes Côtes. The result is a wine
that’s stalky, fruity and layered with acidity. It has
a lightly strawberry, juicy aftertaste. Drink from
2015. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $42
85
Manuel Olivier 2012 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes
de Nuits. Fruit and tannins harmonize in
this ripe, soft wine. Attractive red berry fruits and
lively acidity partner with a smooth texture. It’s not
a wine for aging, and will be ready to drink from
2015. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $24
85
Manuel Olivier 2011 Vieilles Vignes (Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits). The light
color of 2011 is evident in this bottling. It follows
through to a soft, rounded, fruity wine that is lightly
textured. Acidity and juicy red fruits offer a wine
that is drinkable now. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
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Nuiton-Beaunoy 2012 Les Mouchottes (Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits). Set at 1,000
feet, the vineyard of Les Mouchottes inevitably
produces cool and crisp wines with tangible acidity
and strong red currant fruitiness. It’s attractive and
light, with a bright, fragrant aftertaste. Drink from
2016. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
Manuel Olivier 2012 Vieilles Vignes (Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits). In this case,
Vieilles Vignes (old vines) only means vines over 20
years. The wine is soft, rounded and full of red cherry fruitiness. Judicious wood aging has rounded the
wine out while leaving all its fruit intact. It can be
drunk now, but will be better from 2016. Multiple
U.S. importers. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
86
Nuiton-Beaunoy 2012 Grande Cuvée (Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits). A blend from
a number of different parcels in the Hautes Côtes de
Nuits, this is a light and fruity wine. It has that cool
character typical of the fresh vineyards behind the
Côtes de Nuits, giving red currants and acidity along
with dry tannins. It should age until 2016 to bring
the freshness into the line with the fruit. Fruit of
the Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
86
Nuiton-Beaunoy 2012 Les Dames Huguettes
(Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits). This is a
fruity wine, packed with juicy red cherries. Considerable acidity gives a very fresh feel and allows the
soft tannins to develop easily. With its light character and lack of depth, it is not for aging. Drink from
2016. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 Belle Canaille (Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits).
As so often from the Hautes Côtes, this wine dwells
on acidity and stalky tannins rather than fruit. It
has a very crisp red currant character and will
broaden out, although it will always be fresh. Drink
from 2015. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $38
Manuel Olivier 2011 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes
de Nuits. Totally ready to drink, this is soft,
with red fruit and rhubarb flavors. The tannins are
gentle, giving a rounded, light-bodied wine that is
dominated by fruitiness. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $24
OTHER CÔTE DE NUITS WINES
90
Manuel Olivier 2011 Morey-Saint-Denis. Firm
while rounded, this dense wine shows great
red fruits as well as layers of tannin and wood. It is
structured while not missing a beat on ripe fruits
and acidity. It will need to age, although not for too
long. Drink from 2017. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
89
Manuel Olivier 2012 Chambolle-Musigny.
Exhibiting the natural richness of a Chambolle wine, this is a work in progress. Tannins are
still integrating with the generous red fruits and
acidity to give the ripe and rounded wine it will become. Drink from 2017. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $80
89
Manuel Olivier 2012 Morey-Saint-Denis. Still
young, this is potentially a full and rich
wine. It has the structure typical of Morey, with
firm tannins and a good depth of cherry and red
fruit flavors topped by acidity. The tannins are still
WINEMAG.COM | 27
BUYINGGUIDE
firm and the wine needs to age, so drink from 2017.
USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
88
Manuel Olivier 2011 Chambolle-Musigny.
Fresh and juicy, this is a soft and rounded
wine. It has gentle tannins, along with stylish acidity and red fruit flavors. Already, it is becoming
drinkable, so don’t expect the wine to age over the
long term. Drink from 2016. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $80
85
Derey Frères 2012 Les Vignes Marie (Marsannay). This perfumed wine offers plenty
(perhaps too much) acidity and red fruits, with only
light tannins. That makes for a fruity wine, fresh
and ready to drink now and until 2018. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
BEAUNE
94
Albert Morot 2012 Aigrots Premier Cru
(Beaune). At the south end of the magnificent range of Beaune Premier Crus, Aigrots has the
richness and structure of nearby Pommard. This
wine with its dense tannins shows concentration
and ripe red fruits that are cut by acidity. It has
considerable potential and shouldn’t be drunk before 2018. Robert Kacher Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $72
91
88
91
88
Albert Morot 2012 Cent-Vignes Premier Cru
(Beaune). This is an austere wine, packed
with tannins and tight acidity. The red fruits are
right at the back behind the firm structure. A mineral character supports the dusty texture and suggests long-term aging. Drink from 2018. Robert
Kacher Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $65
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 Bélissand
Premier Cru (Beaune). Well structured, this
combines ripe red fruits with a firm texture. It has
a good concentration and a mineral, terroir-driven
character that shows through in its dry core. The
juicy acidity at the end gives a lift, but the wine
needs to age. Drink from 2017. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $74
87
Domaine Jean Monnier et Fils 2012 Montrevenots Premier Cru (Beaune). Blackberry and
red cherry flavors give this broad wine a fruity character. It has some richness, filling the palate with
ripe tannins and a juicy, rounded character at the
end. Drink from 2015. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
87
Nuiton-Beaunoy 2012 Beaune. Light in color,
this is soft and lightly jammy. It has gentle
tannins, red cherry fruitiness and balanced acidity.
While there is a dry core to the wine, it’s likely to
be ready to drink in the medium term. Drink from
2016. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
93
Albert Morot 2012 Teurons Premier Cru
(Beaune). Smoky aromas add to the red
fruits and manifest themselves on the palate as the
spicy, toasty wood aging. The fruits are still developing, a series of rich berries and currants that will
be ripe and generous. For the moment, the dry tannins dominate, so give this wine until 2018. Robert
Kacher Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $72
93
Louis Jadot 2012 Aux Cras Premier Cru
(Beaune). Full with dusty tannins from the
intensely rocky Aux Cras vineyard, this wine offers
rich and rounded fruits. Red berries come through
strongly, offering an initially fruit-driven wine that
then opens out into one that is dense, very structured and with aging potential. Drink this terroirdriven wine from 2018. Kobrand. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $80
92
Albert Morot 2012 Bressandes Premier Cru
(Beaune). This firm, dark and still young
wine has intense acidity that comes from the red
currant and raspberry fruit. The tannins though
form the real basis of this concentrated wine. Great
juicy fruits at the end will develop well. Drink from
2018. Robert Kacher Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $72
28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
POMMARD
94
Louis Jadot 2012 Clos de la Commarine
Premier Cru (Pommard). While this is a
structured wine, it also has a wonderful series
of perfumed aromas and ripe, full-bodied fruits.
The Commarine vineyard, with its deep and welldrained soil, produces the classic dense wine of
Pommard while also allowing for a more fruity, accessible style when young. But best to drink this
from 2019. Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $80
91
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 Les Rugiens
Premier Cru (Pommard). The wine is firm and
structured while still having fresh juicy fruitiness.
Wood and fruit tannins give a dense core of dryness, leaving the acidity and red berry fruits still
developing. From one of the best Premier Crus in
Pommard, this will be best drunk after 2018. Misa
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $141
89
Manuel Olivier 2012 Premier Cru (Pommard).
This firm wine fits well with the image of
Pommard. A tannic core contrasts with the potential of the red cherry fruits. Wood aging is still
prominent, and the wine needs time to balance out.
Drink from 2017. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $80
Manuel Olivier 2012 Pommard. This structured wine also has already delicious red
fruit flavors. The core of tannins is surrounded by
this cushion of ripe fruits, layered with acidity and
altogether enticing now. Drink now, although the
wine will certainly age. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $50
Manuel Olivier 2011 Premier Cru (Pommard).
While this wine certainly has a tannic background, it is already showing fruitiness and ripe
berry and red plum flavors. That makes for a warm,
rounded wine that will age relatively quickly. Drink
from 2016. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $80
88
Nuiton-Beaunoy 2012 Pommard. Some firm
tannins lie at the back of this dry, solid
wine. It has dark plum fruits, juicy acidity and a
fresher aftertaste. It’s balanced and needs a little
aging. Drink from 2017. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
87
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 Pommard.
The wine has firm, dense tannins that are
often found in young Pommard. It also has intense
acidity and a light texture that misses out on density and rich fruits. It’s going to develop quickly, so
drink from 2016. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $102
87
Manuel Olivier 2011 Pommard. Wood aging
for 18 months has smoothed out the natural
tannins of this Pommard while retaining the concentration of the 30-year-old vines. The wine is
rich, soft, full of blackberry fruitiness and maturing well, ready to be drunk from 2015. USA Wine
West. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $50
OTHER BEAUNE WINES
89
Manuel Olivier 2012 Aloxe-Corton. Enticingly perfumed, this is full of red cherry
and plum fruits that are cut through with intense
acidity. A dry core of tannins both gives support and
promises aging. Structured while packed with fruit,
it should be drunk from 2017. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50
88
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 Vieilles Vignes (Savigny-lès-Beaune). This firm wine
still needs to shed its youthful structure of tannin and bring out the underlying ripe fruits. It has
weight, hints of juicy acidity and a medium-term
potential. The end shows some of the natural concentration from old vines. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $52
88
Manuel Olivier 2011 Aloxe-Corton. This is
a delicious, fruity wine with just a core of
tannins to hold it together. It is packed with red
berry fruits along with intense, still-youthful acid-
ity. As it develops, it will become fruitier and softer.
USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
BOURGOGNE
87
86
87
84
Albert Morot 2012 La Bataillère aux Vergelesses Premier Cru (Savigny-lès-Beaune). For
the wine and its fruit, there is too much firm extract
here. It brings out very dry tannins and licorice flavors that cover the fruit. It’s going to be a difficult
wine to soften. Robert Kacher Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $61
Nuiton-Beaunoy 2012 Volnay. While it does
have some of the typical Volnay plumpness,
this is a light wine that offers sweet strawberry
fruits and a strand of acidity. At the end, red currant
acidity delivers an attractive fresh aftertaste. Drink
from 2016. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
86
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 Clos des
Rois Premier Cru (Maranges). From the recent appellation at the southern end of the Côte
de Beaune, this is a light and very fruity wine with
little discernible tannin or structure. Red cherries
and fresh acidity dominate and the wine should be
drunk young. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
CÔTE CHALONNAISE WINES
86
Vignerons de Buxy 2012 Buissonnier (Mercurey). This light-colored wine has a spicy
character that points up the tannins as well as the
red berry fruits. It has a light feeling, with refreshing acidity that shows strongly at the end. It’s ready
to drink. Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $26
85
Vignerons de Buxy 2012 Bourgogne Pinot Noir (Côte Chalonnaise). The Côte
Chalonnaise gives a fruity while structured style of
red Burgundy. It’s juicy, with red cherries and berries giving a bright character behind the still-present tannic structure. It’s ready to drink, although it
will be better in 2015. Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
85
Vignerons de Buxy 2011 Clos Jus Premier
Cru (Givry). This is a fresh Pinot Noir with
plenty of crisp red fruits and soft tannins. It’s all
about fruitiness, with a character that demands to
be drunk now. Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
IRANCY
87
Simonnet-Febvre 2012 Irancy. This is a warm
and round wine from Irancy, southwest of
Chablis. Red fruits are sustained by some wood aging that smoothes out the stalky texture and spice.
It’s a wine that could age another couple of years to
soften it further. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
Simonnet-Febvre 2012 Epineuil Pinot Noir
(Bourgogne). Earthy aromas and a soft red
fruit ripeness are dominated by wood and smoky
spice. They give an unbalanced feel to the wine, not
allowing much room for the potential of the fruitiness and acidity. Louis Latour Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
Manuel Olivier 2012 Pinot Noir (Bourgogne).
This fruity wine is only aged in tanks, without any wood aging. It brings out red fruits and a
light tannic touch, with an earthy backdrop. It will
be ready to drink from 2015. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $24
84
Manuel Olivier 2011 Pinot Noir (Bourgogne).
This light-colored, soft and supple wine
has a palate filled with red fruits. It’s immediately
drinkable, already showing signs of maturity. USA
Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $24
84
Nuiton-Beaunoy 2012 Réserve Pinot Noir
(Bourgogne). Soft and full of red fruits,
this is a simple, forward and immediately drinkable
wine, with gentle tannins and light acidity. There
are no complications here, just fruitiness. Fruit of
the Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
83
Château Philippe-le-Hardi 2012 Vieilles Vignes Pinot Noir (Bourgogne). The wine is
fruity and soft, with a rustic overtone that gives a
barnyard, bitter character. Red fruits are developing
and will show more strongly in the next few months.
Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $28
83
Louis Tête 2013 Bourgogne Gamay. A wine
that is fruity, with just a light texture from
green herbs and cherry skins. Good acidity cuts
through the fruitiness and banana flavor at the end.
Drink now. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $19
COTEAUX BOURGUIGNONS
84
Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2012 Pinot NoirGamay (Coteaux Bourguignons). This is a
soft and fruity wine, full of black cherries and red
fruits. A strong presence of wood gives a firmly
toasty character, probably too much, which leaves
a bitter end to the otherwise juicy wine. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $22
84
Louis Tête 2013 Gamay (Coteaux Bourguignons). This is an attractively fruity wine,
crisp, full of red currant flavors and with a tight,
tannic edge. Still young, it is dominated by acidity
that needs to calm down. Give the wine until midor late 2015. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
84
Vignerons de Buxy 2013 Buissonnier Pinot
Noir-Gamay (Coteaux Bourguignons). The
wine is fresh, fruity, still young and all the better for
it. Red cherry fruits and a crisp texture gives a cool,
juicy feel. It’s not for aging. Ruby Wines Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $14
VENETO
AMARONE DELLA
VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO
95
Allegrini 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella
Classico. Boasting an enviable combination
of opulence and finesse, this opens with aromas of
black plum, vanilla, baking spices and grilled herbs.
The rich palate doles out plum cake, black cherry,
black pepper, cinnamon and nutmeg alongside
smooth, velvety tannins. Gripping intensity holds
on through the long finish. Drink through 2025. E &
J Gallo. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $85
95
Masi 2010 Costasera (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). For full review see page 3.
Cellar Selection.
abv: 15%
Price: $64
95
Masi 2007 Serego Alighieri Vaio Armaron
(Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Aged
in cherry-wood casks, this opens with earthy aromas of tilled soil, blue flower, leather, black cherry
and baking spices. The delicious palate offers plum
cake, nutmeg, baked fruit, cocoa and cinnamon
alongside velvety-smooth tannins. It’s both elegant
and opulent, and while it’s extremely accessible
now, it will also age well. Drink 2015–2027. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $85
94
Monte del Frà 2010 Tenuta Lena di Mezzo
(Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). For
full review see page 4.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $60
94
Speri 2010 Vigneto Monte Sant’Urbano
(Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). From
one of Valpolicella’s storied estates, this singlevineyard Amarone combines structure and elegance.
It seamlessly weaves together intense sensations of
crushed black plum, blackberry, black pepper, cinnamon, tilled earth and leather. Balanced with fresh
acidity and velvety tannins, it boasts an extraordinarily smooth texture. Drink 2015–2025. Empson
USA Ltd. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $86
94
Zenato 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella
Classico. From one of the leading producers
in the denomination, this bold Amarone opens with
WINEMAG.COM | 29
BUYINGGUIDE
aromas of tilled earth, plum cake, blackberry and
mocha. The dense palate doles out crushed black
plum, chocolate and baking spices alongside smooth
tannins. Drink through 2020. Winebow. —K.O.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $75
94
Zenato 2008 Sergio Zenato Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Black plum,
prune, tobacco, mocha, dark chocolate, Mediterranean herbs and black pepper characterize the nose
of this full-bodied, opulent wine. The palate is exceedingly rich but balanced, with just enough fresh
acidity and round, velvety tannins. Impressive intensity continues to the finish. Drink through 2020.
Winebow. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $125
93
Antolini 2010 Moropio (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Blue flower, tilled earth,
tobacco and black pepper aromas leap from the
glass. It’s structured and complex, offering plum,
dried sour cherry, graphite and exotic spice flavors
alongside tightly-wound tannins. Give it time to develop fully. Drink 2017–2030. Frank Johnson Selections. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $42
93
Cesari 2008 Il Bosco (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Dense and delicious, this
opens with aromas of plum cake, tobacco, leather
and blackberry. The rich palate delivers crushed
black raspberry, mocha and chocolate alongside
brooding tannins. Give it time to unwind and fully
develop. Opici Wines. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $95
93
Cesari 2006 Bosan Riserva (Amarone della
Valpolicella Classico). This concentrated
wine offers aromas of tobacco leaf, stewed plum,
grilled porcini mushroom and sage. The lush palate delivers blackberry extract layered with notes of
chocolate and vanilla alongside velvety, embracing
tannins. Opici Wines. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $115
93
Masi 2007 Campolongo di Torbe (Amarone
della Valpolicella Classico). Incense, forest
floor, raisin and mocha are just some of the aromas
you’ll find on this intense Amarone. The rich palate
delivers plum, blueberry extract, espresso, chocolate-covered cherry and vanilla that are supported
by firm, round tannins. It has good length and finishes on a note of bitter prune. Kobrand. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $175
93
Monte del Frà 2008 Scarnocchio (Amarone
della Valpolicella Classico). Richly textured
but still elegant, this features aromas of black plum,
leather and exotic spice. The smooth palate delivers ripe blackberry, candied raspberry, black pepper
and clove alongside firm but polished tanins. Drink
after 2018. Vision Wine & Spirits. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $99
30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
93
Novaia 2010 Corte Vaona (Amarone della
Valpolicella Classico). Intense fragrances
suggest blue flower, leather, truffle, ripe black fruit
and spice. The savory palate delivers layers of sweet
black cherry, crushed plum, black pepper, mocha
and baking spices alongside firm, velvety tannins
and fresh acidty. It’s already accessible but will develop more complexity. Drink 2015–2025. North
Berkeley Imports, Glazer’s. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $55
92
Begali 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Aromas of blue flowers, blackberries
and cake spices lead the nose on this smooth, structured wine. The palate delivers baked plums, prunes
marinated in spirits, cinnamon, white pepper and
tobacco alongside soft tannins. It has good length
and closes on a chocolate note. Vignaioli Selection.
—K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $64
on this dense, soft wine. The concentrated palate
delivers blackberry, black cherry, vanilla, clove and
black pepper notes alongside velvety tannins. Vinvino Wine. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $110
92
Santi 2008 Proemio (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Dense and delicious, this
unfolds with aromas of black fruit, plum cake and
baking spices. The rich palate offers black plum,
blackberry and black cherry alongside layers of
chocolate, clove, vanilla and black licorice. Despite
its weight, it’s balanced, with assertive but round
tannins. Drink 2016–2028. Frederick Wildman &
Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $70
92
Tedeschi 2009 Capitel Monte Olmi Riserva
(Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). For
full review see page 7. Cellar Selection.
abv: 16%
Price: $105
92
92
92
92
Cesari 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Smoke, graphite, blue flower, cedar and
black pepper aromas take center stage on this bold,
structured wine. Velvety tannins support the dense
black cherry, plum and blackberry flavors, while
notes of freshly ground pepper and nutmeg add
depth. Thanks to fresh acidity it’s already surprisingly drinkable but it also displays aging potential.
Drink through 2022. Opici Wines. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $58
Masi 2009 Costasera Riserva (Amarone della
Valpolicella Classico). This toasty expression
of Amarone delivers espresso, subtle oak, plum cake
and smoky aromas. On the palate, notes of tobacco
leaf and grilled herbs accent the primary raisin and
prune flavors alongside tightly packed tannins that
need a few more years to unwind. Drink after 2017.
Kobrand. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $77
92
Masi 2007 Mazzano (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Blue flower, tilled soil,
underbrush, tobacco and dried-cherry aromas waft
from the glass of this single-vineyard bottling. The
warm palate delivers raisin, prune, graphite, mocha,
vanilla and a hint of orange peel alongside bracing
tannins. The long finish closes on a mineral note.
Kobrand. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $170
92
Montecariano 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Savory and full-bodied, this
has aromas of underbrush, truffle, grilled porcini
mushroom, fig, blackberry and a whiff of resin. The
ripe palate delivers stewed prune, chocolate-covered cherry and mocha alongside chewy tannins and
soft acidity. Drink through 2019. Soilair Selection,
Ribevi Wines Int. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $88
92
Santa Sofia 2007 Gioè (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas of baked plum,
underbrush, grilled herb and mocha lead the nose
Tommasi 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella
Classico. Aromas of prune, plum cake,
graphite and baking spices waft from the glass of
this intense, full-bodied wine. The savory palate delivers mature black plum, blueberry extract,
white pepper and mocha alongside velvety tannins
and fresh acidity. It’s surprisingly accessible already
but will develop more complexity with aging. Drink
through 2022. Vintus LLC. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $75
Valentina Cubi 2006 Riserva Morar (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas of
blue flower, blueberry, blackberry and exotic spice
almost explode from the glass. The rich palate offers black plum, prune marinated in spirits, black
pepper and nutmeg alongside velvety tannins. You’ll
also detect the warmth of alcohol, but it’s supported by the fruit richness. Drink through 2021. Votto
Vines Importing. —K.O.
abv: 17%
Price: $70
91
Giuseppe Campagnola 2010 Amarone della
Valpolicella Classico. Ripe black cherry,
graphite, clove, grilled herb and leather aromas lead
the nose on this structured wine. The extracted palate delivers mature black plum, prune, black pepper and mocha alongside tightly packed tannins
that need a few years to unwind. Drink 2016–2022.
Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
91
Le Salette 2011 La Marega (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Floral aromas are layered
with notes of ripe black cherry, crushed blackberry,
baking spices and a whiff of resin. Despite its fullbodied structure, this is one of the more elegant
2011 Amarones out there, delivering ripe black
plum, cocoa and exotic spice. It’s already accessible
thanks to polished tannins. Drink through 2021.
Vias Imports. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $92
91
Santa Sofia 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella
Classico. Earthy aromas suggest tilled earth,
blue flower, baked plum and a whiff of baking spices. The hearty palate delivers black cherry marinated in spirits, clove, fig, black pepper and licorice
alongside firm tannins. Drink 2015–2023. Vinvino
Wine. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $80
90
Antolini 2010 Ca’ Coato (Amarone della
Valpolicella Classico). Resin, nail polish remover and stewed prune aromas carry over to the
concentrated palate along with blueberry extract
and milk chocolate. Soft and round, with chewy
tannins, it closes on an almond note. Drink 2015–
2020. Frank Johnson Selections. —K.O.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $52
90
Corte Rugolin 2008 Crosara de le Strie (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas
recall nail polish remover, black cherry marinated
in spirits and exotic spice. The thick palate delivers prune, mocha, dark chocolate and coffee bean
alongside velvety tannins. It has a long finish and
closes on a bitter, nutty note. Angelini Wine. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $60
90
Domìni Veneti 2008 Castelrotto (Amarone
della Valpolicella Classico). Here’s a boldly
structured wine that also displays finesse. It opens
with aromas of blue flowers, Asian spices, toast
and mature black fruit. The concentrated palate
doles out intense blueberry, blackberry and licorice
alongside notes of spearmint, roasted coffee bean
and black pepper. It’s soft and velvety with a nutty
finish. Drink from 2016–2023. Domini Veneti USA.
—K.O.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $80
90
Le Salette 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella
Classico. This fresh Amarone offers an inviting fragrance of perfumed berry and exotic spice.
Notes of graphite, black pepper and clove give
depth to the ripe plum and blackberry flavors. It’s
balanced with firm, chewy tannins. Drink through
2019. Vias Imports. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $73
90
Le Salette 2010 Pergole Vece Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Black plum,
blue flower, oak, espresso and chocolate aromas
waft from the glass of this densely structured wine.
The palate delivers blueberry extract, roasted coffee
bean, vanilla and spice alonside tightly packed wood
tannins that generate an astringent, mouth-drying
finish. Give it time to unwind. Drink 2018–2030.
Vias Imports. —K.O.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $151
90
Montresor 2009 Capitel della Crosara (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Underbrush, tobacco leaf and raisin aromas lead the way
on this structured wine. The smooth palate delivers
black plum, prune, black pepper and exotic spice
alongside velvety tannins and surprising freshness
for the vintage. It closes on a licorice note. Total
Wine & More. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $50
signals the close. Drink after 2018. Banville Wine
Merchants. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $90
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San Rustico 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Pretty floral and fruit aromas
suggest violet, iris, blackberry and a whiff of saffron. The palate delivers sour cherry, prune, black
pepper, ground nutmeg and espresso alongside big,
chewy tannins. Drink 2015–2024. Multiple U.S.
Importers. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $54
San Rustico 2008 Gaso (Amarone della
Valpolicella Classico). This opens with aromas of blue flower, blackberry, crushed plum and a
whiff of wet asphalt. The bold palate discloses black
plum, prune, black pepper, coffee bean, and grilled
herb alongside tightly-knit tannins. It finishes on a
mocha note. Drink 2016–2023. Multiple U.S. Importers. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $59
Sartori 2008 Corte Brà (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas of spicy plum
cake, blackberry, dried cranberry, freshly ground
black pepper, toasted almond and exotic spice all
weave together and carry on to the palate. Polished tannins give a smooth texture. Banfi Vintners.
—K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $50
90
Stefano Accordini 2010 Acinatico (Amarone
della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas of tilled
earth, blackberry, cedar and raisin jump from the
glass. The dense palate delivers mocha, vanilla, mature plum, bitter prune and black pepper supported
by velvety tannins. The warmth of alcohol shows on
the finish. Masciarelli Wine Co, Vinity Wine. —K.O.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $30
89
Domìni Veneti 2008 Mazzurega (Amarone
della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas of
leather, tobacco leaf, underbrush, and prune marinated in spirits take center stage on this dense
wine. The palate delivers mature plum, blueberry
extract, toast, black pepper and mocha alongside
bracing tannins. Domini Veneti USA. —K.O.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $80
89
Domìni Veneti 2007 Vigneti di Jago (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas of
tobacco, coffee, mocha and plum cake lead the nose
on this brawny wine. The dense, one-dimensional
palate delivers chocolate-covered cherry, vanilla
and bitter prune alongside polished tannins. Drink
through 2017. Domini Veneti USA. —K.O.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $70
89
Farina 2008 Monte Fante Riserva (Amarone
della Valpolicella Classico). Underbrush,
chocolate, tobacco and black plum aromas take
center stage on this bold wine. The palate delivers prune, roasted coffee bean, black pepper and
licorice alongside bracing tannins. A graphite note
Gamba 2010 Campedel (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas of ground black
pepper, blackberry, cured meats and plum lead the
nose on this full-bodied wine. The extracted palate
delivers toasted notes, roasted coffee bean, espresso, blackberry extract, chocolate and vanilla alongside teeth-coating tannins. Drink 2016–2020. Free
Run Wine Merchants. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $70
Gamba 2010 Le Quare (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Leafy underbrush, wet
soil, prune and spicy plum cake aromas lead the
nose on this robust wine. The palate delivers ripe
black plum, blueberry extract, black pepper and
bitter dark chocolate alongside chewy tannins. It
finishes with a graphite note. Free Run Wine Merchants. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
Le Bertarole 2010 Podere Le Maragnole
(Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Black
plum, tilled soil, leather and grilled sage aromas
lead the nose on this structured wine. The dense
palate delivers blackberry, blueberry, dried date,
roasted coffee bean and mocha alongside firm, drying tannins. A licorice note marks the finish. Vinarium Inc. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $45
89
Le Marognole 2009 Camporocco (Amarone
della Valpolicella Classico). Earthy aromas
include underbrush, wet soil, smoke, black plum
and a whiff of crushed flower. The extracted palate
delivers blackberry, fig, black pepper, mocha and
grilled sage alongside polished tannins. Chigazola
Merchants. —K.O.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $65
89
Monteci 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella
Classico. Underbrush, tobacco, black cherry
and grilled herb aromas waft from the glass of this
dense wine. The warm palate offers prune marinated in spirits, raisin, black pepper and mocha
alongside bracing tannins that leave a drying finish.
Bacchanal Wine Imports. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $55
89
Novaia 2009 Le Balze (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). This displays aromas of
underbrush, tobacco, coffee, raisin, menthol and
dried sage. The palate offers blackberry extract,
prune, anise and black pepper alongside bracing
tannins. It finishes on a note of glazed brown sugar.
North Berkeley Imports, Glazer’s. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $80
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Bolla 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Aromas suggest prunes, black cherries,
resin and a whiff of exotic spices. The straightforward palate delivers raisins, dried cherries mari-
WINEMAG.COM | 31
BUYINGGUIDE
nated in spirits and roasted coffee bean alongside
assertive tannins. Banfi Vintners. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $45
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Buglioni 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella
Classico. Dense and extracted, this offers
aromas of black cherry, ground pepper, pine sap and
dried herb. The palate delivers blackberry syrup,
dried cherry, mocha and clove alongside grainy
tannins. Drink through 2019. Wilson Daniels Ltd.
—K.O.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $75
88
Buglioni 2007 Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). This opens with aromas
of raisin, tobacco leaf, underbrush, grilled porcini
mushroom and leather. The extracted palate delivers black pepper, clove, dried sage, prune and licorice supported by teeth-coating tannins. The heat
of searing alcohol on the finish throws the wine off
balance. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 17%
Price: $249
88
Castellani Michele & Figli 2010 Cinque
Stelle (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico).
Blackberry, plum, chocolate and tobacco aromas
lead the nose on this structured wine. The palate
offers roasted coffee bean, licorice, raisin and black
pepper alongside tightly packed tannins that need
time to unwind but for now leave an astringent,
drying finish. You’ll also detect the heat of alcohol
on the finish. Bedford International. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $75
88
Domìni Veneti 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Aged in large Slavonian
casks, this straightforward but robust wine features
aromas of dried blue flowers, black currants, dried
cherry and prune that carry over to the palate along
with ground white pepper and cedar sensations.
The warmth of alcohol appears on the midpalate.
Domini Veneti USA. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $45
88
Guerrieri Rizzardi 2009 Calcarole (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas of
prune, espresso, cherries marinated in spirits and
resin lead the nose. The palate has bracing tannins
but not a lot of fruit richness, offering roasted sensations of coffee bean, ground pepper and toasted
almond. It closes on a licorice note. Morandell Imports. —K.O.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $140
88
La Dama 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella
Classico. Opening with aromas of plum,
leather, chocolate and oak, this bold wine is dense
and extracted. The palate delivers prune, dried
cherry marinated in spirits, licorice, grilled sage and
black pepper. There’s not enough fruit richness to
support the wood tannins that leave an astringent
finish. Vera Food and Wine. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $48
32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
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Domìni Veneti 2008 Villa (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Dense and extracted, this
opens with aromas of cherry marinated in spirits,
prune, ground black pepper and leather. The syrupy
palate offers blackberry extract, licorice, espresso
and toasted oak alongside teeth-coating tannins and
almost searing alcohol. Domini Veneti USA. —K.O.
abv: 17%
Price: $80
87
Farina 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Black currant, cedar, prune, spice and
just a whiff of barnyard lead the nose on this young
Amarone. The dense palate delivers baked plum,
stewed prune, nutmeg and clove alongside tightlyknit, bracing tannins. It finishes on an astringent
note. Banville Wine Merchants. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
85
Luigi Righetti 2011 Capitel de Roari (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). This opens
with unusual charred aromas and whiffs of resin.
The palate retains the same burnt sensations alongside notes of roasted coffee bean and bitter walnut
husk. It lacks fruit richness and ends on an astringent note that dries out the mouth. Prestige Wine
Imports Corp. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $40
AMARONE DELLA
VALPOLICELLA
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Guerrieri Rizzardi 2009 Villa Rizzardi (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas recall raisins, dates, black spices and a whiff of resin.
The palate is on the leaner side for Amarone, offering prune and black pepper alongside smooth tannins. It ends on a note of bitter almond. Morandell
Imports. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $75
Corte Sant’Alda 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella. Made following the principles of
biodynamic viticulture and with natural yeasts, this
offers aromas of turned soil, blue flower, leather and
crushed black cherry. The savory, smooth palate delivers layers of black plum, blackberry, clove, cinnamon and black pepper alongside firm tannins and
fresh acidity. It has impressive depth and the long
finish closes on a licorice note. Drink 2016–2025.
Domaine Select Wine Estates. Cellar Selection.
—K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $130
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Bellini 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Big and bitter, this has aromas of overripe plum, prune, espresso and resin with an acrid
whiff of sweat that eventually burns off in the glass.
The extracted palate offers blueberry, mocha, bitter
prune and roasted coffee bean alongside astringent
tannins that dry out the finish. Superior Wines,
Wine Warehouse. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $60
Corte Rugolin 2007 Monte Danieli (Amarone
della Valpolicella Classico). This opens with
aromas of resin, nail polish remover and prune. The
warm palate delivers coffee, espresso and blueberry
extract alongside astringent tannins and soft acidity. The fruit richness is evaporating and it has a
drying, bitter close. Angelini Wine. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $80
86
Le Bertarole 2010 Podere Cariano (Amarone
della Valpolicella Classico). Rustic aromas recall wet earth, barnyard and leather with a
whiff of ripe, black fruit. The thick palate is rather
muddled and delivers both sweet and bitter sensations of prune, overripe black plum, confectionary
flavors, vanilla and notes of resin alongside astringent tannins that dry out the mouth. Vinarium Inc.
—K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $35
86
Villa Girardi 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella
Classico. Aromas of tobacco leaf, wet soil,
mature plum, resin and a whiff of barnyard lead
the nose on this full-bodied wine. The palate offers dried prune layered with notes of chocolate and
grilled sage. The fleeting finish closes on a rather
bitter note. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O.
abv: NA
Price: $65
Pieropan 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella.
Enticing aromas of crushed black cherry,
mature plum, black pepper, blue flower and tilled
earth lead the nose on this vibrant, full-bodied
wine. Rich blackberry, clove, espresso and black
pepper back up the palate alongside firm tannins. It
ends on a licorice note. Drink 2016–2025. Empson
USA Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $80
Fattori 2010 Col de la Bastia (Amarone della
Valpolicella). The nose is still closed on this
bracing red but it eventually reveals whiffs of black
plum, licorice and leather. The dense, extracted
palate offers blackberry, Marasca cherry, clove,
espresso, licorice and a blast of black pepper. It’s
still young, with brooding tannins that need time
to soften. Drink 2017–2025. T. Edward Wines, J&J
Importers. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $40
92
Sartori 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella.
Full-bodied but elegant, this conveys an
attractive fragrance of blue flower, wet earth, exotic spice and black cherry. The juicy palate delivers black plum and crushed raspberry while notes
of ground white pepper, clove and cinammon add
depth. Thanks to fresh acidity and polished tannins,
it’s well-balanced and more accessible than most
Amarones. Drink through 2020. Banfi Vintners.
Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $40
92
Tedeschi 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella.
For full review see page 7.
abv: 16%
Price: $60
91
Corte Adami 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella.
Structured but remarkably approachable,
this offers lovely aromas of blue flower, black plum,
ripe berry and clove. The delicious palate delivers
Marasca cherry, blackberry, nutmeg, and white pepper alongside smooth but chewy tannins and surprisingly fresh acidity. Dionysos Imports Inc. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $47
91
Pietro Zardini 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella. Ripe dark fruit, leather and chocolate
aromas lead the nose on this rich, full-bodied wine.
The concentrated palate delivers layers of crushed
black cherry, blackberry, cinnamon and clove. Accents of mocha and clove add depth while polished
tannins give it a velvety texture. Drink 2015–2019.
Bacchus Cellar. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $40
91
Villa Erbice 2008 Tremenel (Amarone della
Valpolicella). Tilled earth, blue flower, leather, blueberry and cured meat aromas jump out of
the glass of this concentrated wine. The rich palate
delivers black berry, licorice, chocolate, clove and
black pepper alongside firm, chewy tannins. Drink
2016–2023. Masciarelli Wine Co. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $65
90
Begali 2009 Monte Ca’ Bianca (Amarone
della Valpolicella). This structured wine
opens with aromas of subtle oak, toast, leather,
espresso and dried plum. The extracted palate delivers prune, crushed black cherry, soy sauce and
grilled herbs framed by bracing tannins that leave a
drying finish. Vignaioli Selection. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $78
90
Dal Forno Romano 2008 Monte Lodoletta
(Amarone della Valpolicella). Dense and extracted, this conveys aromas of Asian spice, prune,
raisin, black pepper and espresso. The concentrated, thick palate delivers black plum, raisin, blueberry extract and crème brûlée alongside smooth
tannins and soft acidity. The heat of evident alcohol and syrupy texture would make this a nice wine
that inspires meditation. Folio Fine Wine Partners.
—K.O.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $450
closes on a licorice note. Drink through 2020. Bacchus Cellar. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $55
year or two to unwind. Drink 2016–2021. Vi. Sco.,
Inc.. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $40
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Zonin 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella.
Full-bodied and fresh, this offfers attractive aromas of blue flower, crushed black plum, and
baking spices with a whiff of graphite. The smooth
palate delivers blackberry, bitter cherry, raisin,
black pepper and clove alongside firm tannins.
Drink 2015–2020. Zonin USA. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
Cavalchina 2010 Torre d’Orti (Amarone della
Valpolicella). Concentrated and powerfully
structured, this features aromas of plum cake, blueberry, vanilla and baking spices. The palate delivers
prune, raisin, crushed blackberry and white pepper
but the searing alcohol sensations throw it off balance and give it a one-dimensional quality. Vino et
Spiritus. —K.O.
abv: 17%
Price: $65
89
Montresor 2011 Cantina del Fondatore (Amarone della Valpolicella). In this hearty wine,
aromas recall leafy underbrush, prune, cedar, black
currants and ground pepper. The one-dimensional
palate delivers concentrated black cherry, raspberry, cracked white pepper and a hint of mocha alongside chewy tannins and the warmth of alcohol. Total
Wine & More. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $50
89
Pasqua 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella.
This robust wine has aromas of blackberry,
plum, espresso and spice. The palate offers fleshy
black cherry, raisin, roasted coffee bean and mocha notes alongside chewy tannins and soft acidity.
MHW, Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $40
Montresor 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella.
Aromas of blue flower, leafy forest floor,
blackberry and baking spices lead the nose on this
extremely accessible Amarone. The bright, fullbodied palate offers black cherry, prune and licorice alongside velvety but fleeting tannins and just
enough freshness. Total Wine & More. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $45
Zeni 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella. Aromas recall black plum, raisin, dark spice
and floral notes. The palate offers blackberry, bitter
prune and black pepper accents alongside tightlywound tannins that leave a drying finish. Monsieur
Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
87
Monte Zovo 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella.
Underbrush, tobacco leaf, prune and black
pepper aromas lead the nose on this full-bodied
red. The palate offers raisin, dried cherry, espresso,
licorice and grilled sage alongside tightly packed
tannins before a rather fleeting finish. Wine 4 All.
—K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $80
87
Tenuta Valleselle 2011 Tenuta Valleselle Aureum Acinum (Amarone della Valpolicella).
Aromas suggest grilled herbs, blueberry, crème
caramel, chocolate and baking spices. The onedimensional palate offers plum, prune, espresso
and white pepper notes alongside fleeting tannins.
Drink through 2016. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $55
OTHER RED WINES
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I Saltari 2007 Amarone della Valpolicella.
Raisin, porcini mushruoom, black pepper
and roasted almond aromas open this wine. The
palate delivers raisin, stewed plum, anise and mineral alongside firm but polished tannins that lend
a smooth texture. Drink through 2022. Banfi Vintners. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $67
Pietro Zardini 2008 Leone Zardini Riserva
(Amarone della Valpolicella). Blue flower,
crushed black cherry and spice aromas lead the
nose on this lushly textured wine. The thick palate doles out mature black cherry, plum, raisin and
black pepper aromas alongside velvety tannins. It
Villa Canestrari 2007 1888 Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella). Aromas suggest
leafy underbrush, tobacco, steeped plum and dried
majoram. The palate delivers dried cherry, prune,
ground pepper and licorice alongside tightly-knit
tannins. The heat of alcohol shows on the finish.
Nawrocki Imports. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $115
Cantina di Soave 2009 Rocca Sveva (Amarone della Valpolicella). Asian spice, black
plum, blue flower and toast aromas lead the nose.
The palate offers blackberry, raisin, black pepper
and licorice alongside firm but fleeting tannins. It’s
rather evolved so enjoy sooner rather than later.
Drink through 2016. Mionetto USA. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
Corte Moschina 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella. Leather, subtle oak, espresso and
black cherry aromas lead the nose on this bracing
wine. Notes of spearmint and grilled sage accent the
toast, vanilla, coffee and blackberry flavors that are
supported by compact tannins. Give this another
Zenato 2008 Cresasso Corvina (Veronese).
Made entirely with the Corvina grape, this
brawny wine conveys aromas of blackberry, mocha
and baking spices. The smooth, dense palate offers
up blueberry extract, grilled herbs, chocolate, vanilla and licorice alongside velvety, enveloping tannins. Enjoy through 2018. Winebow. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $75
Rubinelli Vajol 2010 Valpolicella Classico
Superiore. Aromas of blue flower, tilled soil,
graphite and crushed black currants leap from the
glass of this structured wine. The dense palate delivers black cherry, bitter prune, nutmeg and white
pepper alongside tightly packed tannins. Give this a
few years to fully develop. Drink 2016–2020. Ambrosia Wine Group. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $35
WINEMAG.COM | 33
BUYINGGUIDE
LUGANA WHITE WINES
92
Marangona 2012 Trecampane (Lugana). This
polished wine opens with delicate white floral aromas and hints of stone fruit. The savory but
elegant palate delivers white peach and lemon accented with almond and mineral notes. It’s a subtle
wine that shows true elegance. PgM Wines. Editors’
Choice. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
91
Marangona 2013 Lugana. Showing breeding
and class, this opens with aromas of tropical fruit, white peach and citrus that all carry over
to the palate. The creamy texture and juicy fruit
are balanced by crisp acidity. PgM Wines. Editors’
Choice. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
90
Tenuta Roveglia 2011 Vigne di Catullo (Lugana). Made from vines that are over 55
years old, this refined wine has concentrated flavors
of white peach, citrus, yellow apple, exotic fruit and
white spices alongside energizing mineral accents.
The creamy palate is brightened by firm acidity. It
closes on an almond note. John Given Wines. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
88
Ancilla 2012 1909 (Lugana). Made from
the Turbiana grape, this conveys aromas
of jasmine, honeysuckle and citrus with a whiff of
walnut. The palate offers juicy nectarine, kiwi and
lemon zest accented by a hint of almond. Massanois
Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $23
88
Ancilla 2012 Ella (Lugana). Intense aromas
of white peach, green apple and pear carry
over to the palate along with lemon zest, almond
paste and a note of candied ginger. Crisp acidity
brightens up the creamy fruit palate. Massanois Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
ITALY
SPARKLING WINES
FRANCIACORTA
94
Ca’ del Bosco 2005 Anna Maria Clementi
Riserva (Franciacorta). This fragrant sparkler boasts layers of alluring aromas including bread
crust, white spring flowers, cake spices, grapefruit
and alpine herbs. The palate doles out succulent yellow peach, toasted almond, white pear and a hint of
saline. Vibrant acidity and an elegant, lively mousse
brighten the creamy flavors. It’s delicious now but
shows aging potential. Drink through 2020. Banville Wine Merchants. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $90
34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
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Ca’ del Bosco 2005 Anna Maria Clementi
Rosé Riserva (Franciacorta). Another gorgeous effort from Ca’ del Bosco, this pure Pinot
Nero opens with a fragrance of pressed rose petal,
perfumed red berry, nectarine and spice. The palate
is pure elegance, delivering bright red cherry, wild
strawberry, ginger and cinnamon alongside an exquisite mousse and fresh acidity. It’s delicious now
but will also develop more complexity over the next
few years. Drink through 2020. Banville Wine Merchants. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $120
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Fratelli Berlucchi 2007 Casa delle Colonne
Zero Riserva (Franciacorta). Intriguing
whiffs of smoke and mineral add depth to aromas
of white flowers, toasted bread crumb and citrus on
this Chardonnay-Pinot Nero blend. The vibrant palate delivers rich yellow apple, cherry, candied citrus
and ginger alongside an ultra-fine perlage and brisk
acidity. Made with no dosage, it finishes crisp and
dry. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $75
93
Barone Pizzini 2008 Bagnadore Riserva Non
Dosato (Franciacorta). A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Nero and made without dosage,
this opens with a delicate but alluring fragrance of
white flower, citrus, stone fruit and pastry notes.
The smooth, silky palate delivers lemon zest, ripe
red apple, candied ginger and a yeasty note of baked
bread alongside a soft, persistent mousse. Vignaioli
Selection. —K.O.
abv: 12%
Price: $55
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Ferghettina 2007 Extra Brut (Franciacorta).
This dry sparkling wine is made from 80%
Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. Full of finesse, it
delivers yellow apple and Bartlett pear aromas that
carry over to the palate together with notes of almond biscuits and a note of vanilla. It’s extremely
elegant, with a refined mousse and lively acidity.
Empson USA Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $68
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Barone Pizzini 2010 Rosé (Franciacorta).
Made with organically grown Pinot Nero,
this opens with a fragrance of perfumed red berry
and cream-filled pastry. The elegant palate offers
creamy strawberry, wild raspberry and spice alongside bright acidity and a soft mousse. Vignaioli Selection. —K.O.
abv: 12%
Price: $46
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Ca’ del Bosco 2009 Vintage Collection Dosage Zero (Franciacorta). Made without the
added dosage used to enhance sweetness in traditionally crafted sparklers, this wine proves that
with great fruit no corrections are needed. Flavors
include ripe McIntosh apple, bright nectarine,
toasted almond and vanilla alongside an elegant
perlage. It finishes dry in flavor, with tangy acidity.
Banville Wine Merchants. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $75
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Ferghettina 2010 Brut Rosé (Franciacorta).
With its fragrance of wild flowers and red
berries, this wine is as attractive as its unique,
square-based bottle that allows for more contact
between the yeasts and wine during secondary fermentation. Made with Pinot Noir, the crisp, savory
palate boasts crushed raspberries, mineral and baking spices alongside a silky mousse. Extremely elegant. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $60
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Barone Pizzini 2010 Nature (Franciacorta).
Expressive aromas of white flower, acacia,
citrus and pear float from the glass of this elegant
and organic sparkling wine. The lively palate delivers mature yellow apple, lemon zest, bread crust
and toasted almond alongside a silky mousse and
vibrant acidity. Vignaioli Selection. —K.O.
abv: 12%
Price: $46
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Bellavista 2007 Pas Operé Extra Brut (Franciacorta). Fragrances recall acacia, white
spring flowers, honey, bread dough and beeswax.
The concentrated palate delivers mature yellow
apple, toasted walnut, clove, vanilla and pie crust
alongside vivacious, persistent effervescence. Terra
Moretti Trading. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $64
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Ca’ del Bosco 2009 Vintage Collection Brut
(Franciacorta). Fragrant and floral, this blend
of 55% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Nero and 15% Pinot Bianco offers aromas of lemon blossom, white
flowers and toasted almond. The palate shows an
impressive depth of flavors, including yellow apple,
lemon cream pie and peach alongside an elegant
mousse. The creamy flavors are brightened by lively
acidity. Banville Wine Merchants. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $75
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Enrico Gatti NV Nature (Franciacorta). Yeasty
aromas of bread crust, yellow apple, candied lemon and nectarine peel carry over to the
palate alongside an elegant perlage. Made with no
added dosage, it finishes crisp and bone-dry with a
quenching close. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $55
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Fratelli Berlucchi 2010 Pas Dosé Vintage
(Franciacorta). Made without adding the
customary sweetening dosage, this elegant blend
of Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero opens
with floral aromas of passion fruit, ripe pear and
walnut. The subtle palate delivers citrus, Golden
Delicious apple and toasted walnut alongside brisk
acidity and a fine mousse. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
90
Antica Fratta 2007 Quintessence Extra Brut
Riserva (Franciacorta). A blend of 55%
Pinot Nero and 45% Chardonnay, this opens with
aromas of honey, beeswax, acacia, vanilla and toast.
The rich palate shows some complexity, delivering
bread crust, lemon, apple, hazelnut and candied
ginger alongside vibrant acidity and a soft, persistent mousse. Masciarelli Wine Co. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $60
toasted walnut alongside smooth, persistent bubbles. World Wide Wine LLC. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $49
and a refined perlage. It finishes on a note of white
almond. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
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Barone Pizzini NV Animante (Franciacorta).
Made with organically grown grapes, this
offers aromas of white flower, Bartlett pear, citrus
and spice. The lively palate delivers lemon pastries,
Golden Delicious apple and clove alongside bright
acidity and a creamy, soft mousse. Vignaioli Selection. —K.O.
abv: 12%
Price: $35
Enrico Gatti 2007 Millesimo Brut (Franciacorta). Made with 100% Chardonnay, this
creamy wine delivers golden apple, Bartlett pear,
bread crust and pastry cream sensations. Vibrant
acidity brightens the juicy palate while the fine perlage adds elegance. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $68
Ferghettina 2010 Milledì Brut (Franciacorta). Packaged in an elegant square-bottomed bottle, this opens with fragrances of peach
blossom, stone fruit and citrus. Showing its 100%
Chardonnay pedigree, the creamy palate delivers
mature yellow apple, white peach and lemon zest
alongside bright acidity. White almond and mineral
note back up the finish. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $60
Ferghettina 2006 Pas Dosé (Franciacorta).
Fans of no-dosage sparklers will appreciate this elegant, bone-dry wine. Made with Chardonnay, it offers pretty aromas of chamomile, hay,
citrus and pear. The sleek palate delivers yellow
apple, ginger and herbs alongside a fine perlage and
vibrant acidity. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $84
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Fratelli Berlucchi 2010 Brut Rosé (Franciacorta). A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot
Bianco and Pinot Nero, this savory sparkler opens
with an inviting fragrance of baked bread, tangerine
and red berry. The creamy palate delivers crunchy
strawberry, baking spices, toasted almond and
cookie dough alongside crisp acidity and an elegant
perlage. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $40
90
Fratelli Berlucchi 2007 Freccianera Brut
(Franciacorta). Made with 50% Pinot Bianco, 35% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Nero, this
offers aromas of green apple, dried chamomile and a
whiff of nut and honey. The creamy palate delivers
mature Golden Delicious apple, peach, lemon peel
and candied ginger flavors that are brightened by
refreshing acidity and a persistent perlage. Selected
Estates of Europe Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
90
Il Mosnel 2009 EBB Extra Brut (Franciacorta). Aromas suggest pastry crust, almonds,
spice, and lemon zest. The vibrant palate doles out
Golden Delicious apple, white grapefruit, clove and
Il Mosnel 2008 Parosé (Franciacorta). Made
with 70% Pinot Nero and 30% Chardonnay, this salmon-colored sparkler opens with aromas of woodland berries, pastry cream and baking
spices. The palate offers mature yellow apple, grapefruit and white pepper alongside a fine perlage and
bright acidity. World Wide Wine LLC. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $49
Lantieri de Paratico 2010 Arcadia Brut (Franciacorta). A blend of 70% Chardonnay and
30% Pinot Nero, this conveys aromas of wild flower, white rose and ripe pear. The refreshing palate
delivers yellow apple, white peach and a ginger note
alongside crisp acidity and a soft, persistent perlage.
Franciacorta Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $43
Majolini 2006 Electo Brut (Franciacorta).
Grapefruit, apple and walnut aromas lead
the nose on this graceful blend of 80% Chardonnay
and 20% Pinot Nero. The smooth, creamy palate
offers pear, lemon zest and roasted almond alongside soft bubbles and fresh acidity. It boasts enough
depth and complexity to age for several years. Drink
now through 2018. Franciacorta Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $36
Montenisa NV Saten (Franciacorta). Made
with 100% Chardonnay, this opens with
a delicate fragrance that recalls white flower, ripe
apple and a whiff of breadcrust. The creamy palate
offers white peach, candied citrus and white almond
alongside a soft, persistent mousse. Ste. Michelle
Wine Estates. —K.O.
abv: 12%
Price: $40
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Montenisa 2006 Contessa Maggi (Franciacorta). A blend of 70% Chardonnay and
30% Pinot Nero, this begins with aromas of chamomile, honey and acacia. The lively palate offers ripe
yellow apple, candied citrus and walnut alongside a
persistent perlage and bright acidity. Ste. Michelle
Wine Estates. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
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Ricci Curbastro 2007 Gualberto Dosaggio
Zero (Franciacorta). Pear, citrus and hazelnut aromas lead the nose on this sparkling wine
made with no added dosage. The palate reveals juicy
yellow apple, lime and roasted nut alongside soft
acidity and a refined, persistent mousse. It finishes
tangy and dry. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Ronco Calino 2008 Brut (Franciacorta).
Aromas of hawthorn, flowering mint and
sage lead the way. The palate offers green apple,
lemon zest, and alpine herb alongside brisk acidity
Villa 2010 Emozione Brut (Franciacorta). A
blend of 85% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Nero
and 5% Pinot Bianco, this opens with pretty aromas of yellow flower, candied citrus and peach. The
creamy palate doles out zesty lemon peel, mature
yellow apple and ginger while vibrant acidity generates a clean finish. Just Quality Importer. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $37
Antica Fratta 2009 Essence Nature Dosaggio Zero (Franciacorta). A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Nero, this offers fruity aromas of
apple, peach and a note of wild flower. The bone-dry
palate displays mature red apple, apricot, lime and
toasted walnut alongside a refined perlage. Masciarelli Wine Co. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $48
Antica Fratta 2008 Essence Brut (Franciacorta). Acacia flower, Golden Delicious
apple, honey and exotic fruit are some of the sensations offered by this blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Nero. It has a vivacious and persistent perlage
and closes on a note of bitter almond. Martin Scott
Wines. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $48
Barone Pizzini 2010 Saten (Franciacorta).
Made with organically grown Chardonnay,
this opens with aromas of chamomile, acacia and
exotic fruit. The soft, round palate offers ripe yellow
apple, vanilla and a hint of baking spices alongside a
subtle mousse. Vignaioli Selection. —K.O.
abv: 12%
Price: $46
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Bellavista 2009 Saten (Franciacorta).
Displaying its Chardonnay pedigree, this
creamy sparkler opens with a floral fragrance of
peach blossom, acacia, honey and walnut. Golden
Delicious apple and citrus dominate the palate, balanced by bright acidity. It finishes on a hazelnut
note. Terra Moretti Trading. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $54
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Ca’ del Bosco 2009 Vintage Collection Saten
(Franciacorta). Aromas of white flowers,
baking spices, pear and a whiff of toasted nuts waft
from the glass. The crisp palate serves up juicy yellow apple, toasted walnut and yeasty notes of freshly baked bread alongside brisk acidity and vibrant,
persistent bubbles. Banville Wine Merchants.
—K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $75
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Contadi Castaldi 2010 Zero (Franciacorta). A
blend of 65% Chardonnay and 35% Pinot
Nero, this copper-colored wine features subtle aromas of rose, passion fruit and red berry. The lively
palate offers strawberry, ripe apple and a hint of
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BUYINGGUIDE
bread crust alongside brisk acidity and persistent
bubbles. Terra Moretti Trading. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Enrico Gatti NV Rosé (Franciacorta). This
100% Pinot Nero sparkler conveys varietal
aromas of rose petal and red berry. On the palate,
crushed raspberry notes back up ripe red apple
alongside brisk acidity and a lively perlage. A nutty
sensation marks the close. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O.
abv: NA
Price: $67
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Enrico Gatti 2009 Saten (Franciacorta).
Made with 100% Chardonnay, this opens
with aromas of bread crust, toasted nuts, and yellow apples that all carry over to the creamy palate.
It’s fresh and elegant with bright acidity and a soft
mousse. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $60
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Ferghettina NV Franciacorta. Crisp and
refreshing, this delivers aromas of white
flower and tangy citrus. The crisp palate highlights
nectarine and lemon zest alongside yeasty notes of
baked bread and toasted almonds. Empson USA Ltd.
—K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
89
Ferghettina 2010 Brut Saten (Franciacorta).
Creamy and elegant, this delivers sensations of Golden Delicious apple, Bartlett pear, pastry cream and candied lemon along with a hint of
Mediterranean herbs. It offers pure sipping pleasure
thanks to fresh acidity and a soft perlage. Empson
USA Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $54
89
Lantieri de Paratico NV Brut (Franciacorta).
Delicate fragrances suggest white flower,
acacia, lemon drop, brioche and stone fruit. A blend
of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Bianco, the
fresh and lively palate delivers juicy apple, yellow
peach, mineral and white almond alongside crisp
acidity and a soft mousse. A mineral note signals
the finish. Franciacorta Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $29
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Lantieri de Paratico NV Saten (Franciacorta).
Made with 100% Chardonnay, this creamy
sparkler opens with aromas of hawthorn, peach and
a whiff of bread crust. The palate reveals candied
nectarine zest and golden apple alongside a soft perlage. It ends on a note of white almond. Franciacorta
Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
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Majolini NV Blanc de Noir Brut (Franciacorta). White flower, stone fruit, apple and
bread crust aromas lead the nose. The fresh palate
offers up yellow peach, candied lemon and hints of
clove and white pepper alongside a vivacious perlage and brisk acidity. Franciacorta Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12%
Price: $42
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Montenisa 2007 Conte Aimo (Franciacorta).
Made with 100% Pinot Nero, this offers
tart apple, lemon rind and roasted hazelnut flavors
alongside bright acidity and small, persistent bubbles. It’s subtle and refined with a dry finish. Ste.
Michelle Wine Estates. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $55/1.5 L
Chardonnay and Pinot Nero offers aromas of white
flower, beeswax, toasted almond and a yeasty note
of bread crust. The palate displays mature golden
apple peel, citrus zest, walnut and candied ginger
alongside a soft mousse. It finishes on a note of bitter walnut. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $70
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Villa Crespia NV Novalia (Franciacorta). Fragrances suggest white and yellow flowers,
stone fruit, pear and a whiff of brioche. Displaying
its 100% Chardonnay pedigree, the palate delivers
Golden Delicious apple, white pear, citrus peel and
notes of Mediterranean herb alongside bright acidity and a soft mousse. Vinifera Imports. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
Bellavista NV Alma Cuvée Brut (Franciacorta). From one of the most familiar brands
of Franciacorta, this opens with aromas of red apple
skin, lemon zest and candied nectarine slices. The
palate offers Golden Delicious apple and hints of
liqueur alongside zesty acidity and tight, persistent bubbles that leave a crisp finish. Terra Moretti
Trading. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $34
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Bellavista 2009 Rosé (Franciacorta). Aromas of roasted almond, wild flower and a
whiff of candied cherry lead the way on this blend
of 62% Chardonnay and 38% Pinot Nero. The palate delivers mature yellow apple and stone fruit
alongside a note of roasted walnut. Terra Moretti
Trading. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $54
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Bellavista 2008 Brut (Franciacorta). This
blend of Chardonnay (72%) and Pinot Nero
(28%) opens with aromas that recall white spring
flower and a hint of sage. The palate offers easy
drinking appeal with yellow peach, mature apple
and toasted walnut flavors alongside bright acidity.
Terra Moretti Trading. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $44
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Contadi Castaldi NV Rosé (Franciacorta). A
blend of 65% Chardonnay and 35% Pinot
Nero, this copper-colored wine conveys subtle aromas of rose, passion fruit and red berry. The lively
palate offers strawberry, ripe apple and a hint of
bread crust alongside brisk acidity and persistent
bubbles. Terra Moretti Trading. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $24
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Fratelli Berlucchi NV Brut 25 (Franciacorta).
This 100% Chardonnay features aromas of
roasted nuts, dill, and toasted bread crust. The palate delivers ripe Golden Delicous apple, lemon zest,
vanilla and hazelnut alongside persistent bubbles
and sharp acidity. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd.
—K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
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Fratelli Berlucchi 2007 Casa delle Colonne
Brut Riserva (Franciacorta). This blend of
La Valle 2007 Naturalis Extra Brut (Franciacorta). This frothy wine opens with floral
aromas that recall acacia flower, dried chamomile
and a whiff of honey. The palate offers yellow apple,
peach and a hint of bread crust alongside brisk acidity. It ends on a note of bitter almond. L.A. Dick Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $34
Majolini NV Altera Rosé (Franciacorta).
Made entirely with Pinot Nero, this opens
with aromas of rose, McIntosh apple and red berry.
The palate offers up raspberry, cranberry, nectarine
and candied ginger backed up by brisk acidity. It
ends on a walnut note. Franciacorta Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12%
Price: $42
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Ricci Curbastro 2009 Brut Saten (Franciacorta). Made entirely with Chardonnay,
this delivers delicate aromas of stone fruit, citrus
and white almond. The bright palate offers up mature yellow apple, vanilla and a hint of lemon pastry
alongside a persistent perlage. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $47
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Antica Fratta 2010 Essence Saten (Franciacorta). Aromas of white flower, herb and
apricot lead the nose. Made solely with Chardonnay,
the palate delivers yellow apple, citrus and roasted
nut paste alongside a soft mousse. Bitter walnut
marks the finish. Martin Scott Wines. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $48
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Castello Bonomi NV Cru Perdu (Franciacorta).
Fragrant and fresh, this offers intensely floral aromas of peach blossom and acacia with whiffs
of Bartlett pear, honey and hazelnut. The off-dry
palate delivers pastry cream, lemon zest, and ginger
alongside brisk bubbles and lively acidity. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $40
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La Valle NV Brut Rosé (Franciacorta). Made
entirely with Pinot Nero, this opens with
aromas that recall red apple, red berry and rose.
The tangy palate delivers pink grapefruit, cranberry
and crunchy strawberry alongside sharp acidity. It
closes on a note of toasted hazelnut. L.A. Dick Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $36
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Lantieri de Paratico 2008 Origines Pas Dosé
Riserva (Franciacorta). Made with 75%
Chard and 25% Pinot Nero, this features aromas
of ripe apple, Mediterranean herbs and nut paste.
Made with no added dosage, the palate is dominated
by roasted walnut and toasted almond, with notes
of apple skin and lemon peel in the background.
Crisp acidity accentuates the already-dry palate.
Franciacorta Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $65
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Ricci Curbastro NV Brut (Franciacorta). A
blend of 60% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Bianco and 10% Pinot Nero, this doesn’t have a very expressive nose. The brisk palate offers easy-drinking
appeal with citrus, apple and peach flavors alongside sharp acidity and vivacious bubbles. Multiple
U.S. importers. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $40
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Ronco Calino 2009 Brut Nature (Franciacorta). A blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20%
Pinot Nero, this opens with aromas of white flower,
dried apricot, vanilla and toasted hazlenut. The palate offers tart apple, lemon zest and note of brioche
alongside crisp acidity. Multiple U.S. importers.
—K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
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Contadi Castaldi NV Brut (Franciacorta).
Made with 80% Chardonnay and 20%
Pinot Bianco and Pinot Noir, this informal sparkler offers fragrances of white flowers and a whiff
of tropical fruit. The brisk palate delivers candied
lemon, apricot and roasted nuts alongside aggressive bubbles and sharp acidity. Terra Moretti Trading. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $24
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Il Mosnel 2010 Brut Satèn (Franciacorta).
This toasty bottling shows some evident
maturity in terms of fruit richness. It offers toasted
walnut, espresso, vanilla and yellow apple-skin flavors alongside large, brisk bubbles and crisp acidity.
World Wide Wine LLC. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $41
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Lo Sparviere 2008 Brut (Franciacorta). An
almost neutral nose eventually reveals subdued aromas of white flower and a whiff of citrus.
The shy palate offers hints of apple, peach and white
almond alongside brisk acidity. Amici Imports.
—K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
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Ricci Curbastro 2009 Extra Brut (Franciacorta). Subdued aromas recall white flower
and stone fruit. The muted palate reveals mature
yellow apple skin, lemon zest and notes of nut butter alongside sharp bubbles. It has a tangy but fleeting finish. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $47
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Ferrari 2002 Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore (Trento). For full review see page 4.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $130
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Ferrari 2007 Perlé (Trento). For full review
see page 9.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $38
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Ferrari 2006 Riserva Lunelli (Trento). For full
review see page 9.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $59
Altemasi 2007 Pas Dosé (Trento). Aromas
of lemon blossom, pear and citrus lead the
nose, with a whiff of bread dough. The dry palate
delivers mature yellow apple, lemon zest and toasted almond alongside bright acidity and a lively perlage. Palm Bay International. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $50
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Rotari 2006 Flavio Riserva Brut (Trento). For
full review see page 9.
abv: 13%
Price: $32
Ferrari NV Rosé (Trento). For full review see
page 10.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
Maso Martis NV Brut (Trento). A blend of
Chardonnay and Pinot Nero, this begins
with a fragrance of white flower, green apple and a
yeasty note of bread crust. The vibrant palate offers
juicy white peach, lemon peel, and almond cookie
notes alongside brisk acidity. Solstars Inc. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $39
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Maso Martis 2010 Brut Rosé (Trento). Made
with 100% Pinot Noir, this opens with fragrances of violet, rose and perfumed berry. Cinnamon-spice and a pastry note accent the juicy strawberry and wild cherry flavors while a soft mousse
lends an elegant finish. Solstars Inc. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $50
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Maso Martis 2009 Dosaggiozero Riserva
(Trento). Made with no dosage, this is a
blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Nero.
Ripe apple, toasted walnut, lemon zest and bread
dough flavors are backed up by crisp acidity. The
refined perlage adds softness and elegance. Solstars
Inc. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $52
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Maso Martis 2007 Brut Riserva (Trento). A
blend of 70% Pinot Nero and 30% Chardonnay, this opens with aromas of toast, roasted
nuts, mature apple and pear. The palate offers rich
apricot, citrus, bread crust and vanilla alongside a
fine, persistent perlage. Solstars Inc. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $52
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Altemasi 2006 Graal Brut Riserva (Trento).
A blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Nero, this delivers sensations of ripe Golden Delicious apple, acacia flower, toasted nuts and honey.
The creamy palate is brightened by soft acidity and
a refined perlage. Palm Bay International. —K.O.
abv: 12%
Price: $55
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Rotari NV Brut (Trento). For full review see
page 12.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
Maso Martis 2004 Madame Martis Brut
Riserva (Trento). Aromas of roasted walnut
and toasted bread crust lead the nose on this blend
of Pinot Nero, Chardonnay and just a touch of Pinot
Meunier. The palate delivers candied lemon zest,
apple skin and a ginger note alongside tangy acidity and a persistent perlage. The fruit richness has
evolved into tertiary sensations although it retains
fresh acidity. Solstars Inc. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $170
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Rotari 2008 Alpe Regis Extra Brut (Trento).
Made solely with Chardonnay, this delivers a delicate floral fragrance of white wild flowers
while the palate offers up yellow apple, peach and
citrus. Fresh and vibrant, it has an easygoing but
refined character that makes it perfect for any occasion. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
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Altemasi 2010 Brut (Trento). Aromas of
peach blossom, citrus and a yeasty note of
fresh biscuits lead the nose on this 100% Chardonnay. The palate offers walnut husk, lemon zest and
a confectionary note alongside sharp acidity. Palm
Bay International. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
PROSECCO
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Ca’ dei Zago 2012 Dosaggio Zero (Prosecco di
Valdobbiadene). For full review see page 8.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $30
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Rotari NV Rosé (Trento). For full review see
page 12.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
Rotari 2010 Alpe Regis Rosé (Trento). This
blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay features yeasty aromas of baked bread, ripe red apple
and spice. The tangy palate delivers sour cherry,
strawberry and candied nectarine alongside a ginger note and brisk acidity. Prestige Wine Imports
Corp. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
Ca’ dei Zago 2013 Col Fondo (Prosecco). For
full review see page 10. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 11%
Price: $20
La Vigna di Iseppo 2012 Sui Lieviti (Prosecco). Fragrant, fresh and frothy, this vibrant
wine opens with heady aromas of jasmine, tropical fruit and lime. Made by letting the wine finish
fermentation in the bottle on its lees, it doles out
tangy lemon zest, candied nectarine, green apple
and a saline note alongside brisk acidity. The Vine
Collective. —K.O.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $18
WINEMAG.COM | 37
BUYINGGUIDE
88
Piera Martellozzo 2013 Giade (Prosecco). As
the cloudy sediment at the bottom of the
bottle indicates, this intriguing Prosecco was refermented in the bottle as opposed to in steel tanks.
It opens with a heady aroma of white flower, green
apple and kiwi. These carry over to the palate with
a hint of exotic fruit and lime alongside a soft, persistent mousse and brisk acidity. It has a dry, crisp
finish. Wine Worldwide. —K.O.
abv: 11%
Price: $15
88
Valdellövo 2012 Bade Col Fondo (Prosecco di
Conegliano e Valdobbiadene). Refermented
in the bottle on its lees, this fresh and lively wine
has a slightly cloudy appearance thanks to fine
sediment on the bottom. Delicate aromas of white
flower, citrus and stone fruit lead to a palate that
delivers tart green apple, white peach and lime. Delectatio Wines. —K.O.
abv: 11%
Price: $26
87
Albino Armani NV Casa Beffi Col Fondo (Prosecco). Made with organically grown grapes
and refermented in the bottle on its lees, this features aromas of honeysuckle, almond and ripe apple. The dry palate delivers yellow peach, tart green
apple and nectarine zest alongside sharp acidity.
Saranty Imports. —K.O.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $19
87
Drusian 2013 Col Fondo (Prosecco Treviso).
This undergoes a second fermentation in
bottle that leaves a slight sediment at the bottom.
Aromas recall delicate white flower, green apple,
citrus and bread crust. The vibrant palate offers ripe
Bartlett pear, nectarine and candied ginger accompanied by a creamy perlage. It’s balanced with lively
acidity. Panebianco. —K.O.
abv: 11%
Price: $16
OTHER VENETO
91
Citari 2009 Brut 36 (Lugana). For full review
see page 8.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
90
Selva Capuzza NV Hirundo Dosaggio Zero
(Lugana). Made entirely from native grape
Turbiana and with no added dosage, this sparkling
Lugana boasts fragrances of white flower, beeswax,
green apple and cinnamon-spice. The palate delivers white peach, lemon zest, almond and a hint of
pastry alongside bright acidity and a soft mousse.
—K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $36
90
Zenato 2012 Metodo Classico Brut (Lugana).
From one of the Veneto’s leading producers,
this is made with native Turbiana grape. Creamy flavors of lemon pastry, Bartlett pear and yellow apple
are brightened by refreshing acidity and a fine perlage. It finishes on an almond note. Winebow. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
88
Ca’ Rugate 2010 Amedeo Pas Dosé Riserva
(Lessini Durello). A blend of native grapes
Durello (90%) and Garganega (10%) and made
with no dosage, this opens with aromas of roasted
hazelnut, lemon zest and yellow apple peel that
carry over to the tangy, bone-dry palate. It has crisp
acidity and finishes on a note of toasted walnut.
Massanois Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $42
88
Olivini 2007 Pas Dosé Metodo Classico (Lugana). Made with native grape Turbiana
and with no added dosage, this pretty sparkler
opens with a delicate fragrance of white flower and
citrus. The palate offers lemon-lime and white almond alongside brisk acidity and small, fine bubbles. Tradizione Imports. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $46
PIEDMONT
93
Germano Ettore 2010 Brut (Alta Langa).
Loaded with finesse, this blend of 80%
Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay proves the great
potential of the young Alta Langa denomination.
White flower, green apple, bread crust and citrus
notes accompany an elegant perlage and crisp acidity. It also displays moderate aging potential. Drink
through 2018. Oliver McCrum, Volio Vino. —K.O.
abv: NA
Price: $45
89
Banfi 2010 Cuvée Aurora Rosé (Alta Langa).
Made with 100% Pinot Nero, this delivers a
fragrance of rose and perfumed red berry. The lively
palate offers wild strawberry layered with raspberry, pink grapefruit, light spice and white almond
alongside bright acidity and a persistent perlage.
Banfi Vintners. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
88
Josetta Saffirio 2009 Brut Rosé (Nebbiolo
d’Alba). Made with Nebbiolo, this conveys
the grape’s trademark aromas of violet, rose and red
berry. A touch of cinnamon adds interest to the wild
cherry and crushed raspberry flavors while zesty
acidity leaves a tangy finish. Peter Warren Selections. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
87
Demarie 2010 For You Metodo Classico (Roero Arneis). Made with native grape Arneis,
this delivers aromas of tart green apple, citrus and
yeasty bread crust. These carry over to the palate
alongside a persistent effervescence and bright
acidity. It finishes on a walnut note. Uva Imports.
—K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
VINO SPUMANTE
92
Germano Ettore 2012 Rosanna Metodo Classico Brut Rosé (Vino Spumante). Made entirely from Nebbiolo, this boasts finesse and struc-
ture. Aromas of rose and red berry carry over to
the palate alongside bright cherry and yeasty notes
of baked bread. Crisp acidity generates freshness,
while the elegant perlage gives a silky texture. It
finishes bone-dry. Oliver McCrum, Volio Vino. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
91
Falesco NV Metodo Classico Rosé (Vino
Spumante). Made with Pinot Noir, this elegant sparkler starts with a delicate fragrance of
rose petal and red berry. The vibrant palate delivers creamy wild cherry, crunchy strawberry, spice
and a note of freshly baked vanilla cookies backed
up by crisp, refreshing acidity. The soft mousse carries through to the almond finish. Winebow. —K.O.
abv: 12%
Price: $30
91
Parusso 2010 Metodo Classico (Vino Spumante). Made entirely from Nebbiolo, Italy’s
most noble grape, this offers a fragrance of McIntosh apple, grapefruit and yellow peach. The palate
displays an enticing depth of flavors including red
cherry, strawberry and notes of cinnamon-spice
alongside a refined and persistent perlage. Regal
Wine Imports Inc. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $50
91
Rizzi NV Metodo Classico Extra Brut (Vino
Spumante). A blend of 65% Chardonnay,
20% Nebbiolo and 15% Pinot Nero, this delivers
ripe pear, golden apple, citrus and hazelnut aromas
that carry on to the palate. It’s sophisticated and
elegant, with radiant acidity. The Wine Company.
—K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $29
91
Suavia NV Opera Semplice Trebbiano (Vino
Spumante). From one of Soave’s leading estates, this bubbly is made with Trebbiano di Soave
grapes and without added sulfites or dosage. Crisp
and clean, it delivers flavors of tart green apple,
citrus, roasted almond and a hint of pastry cream
alongside refined effervescence and brisk acidity.
Vias Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $50
90
Benanti NV Noblesse Metodo Classico Brut
(Vino Spumante). Made from Carricante
grown on the steep slopes of Mount Etna, this opens
with a fragrance of Spanish broom, lemon blossom,
beeswax and citrus. The vibrant palate doles out
nectarine, ripe green apple and toasted pistachio
alongside bright acidity and an elegant mousse.
Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $40
90
Bisol 2001 Eliseo Bisol Cuvée del Fondatore
Talento Metodo Classico (Vino Spumante).
Aromas of candied lemon peel, vanilla and bread
crust lead the nose on this blend of Pinot Bianco,
Chardonnay and Pinot Nero. The lively palate delivers mature Golden Delicious apple, candied gin-
ger, and roasted hazelnut alongside a soft, peristent
mousse. Vias Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $70
apple. The juicy fruit palate is balanced by vibrant
acidity and assertive bubbles. Panebianco. —K.O.
abv: 12%
Price: $60
90
87
Giribaldi 2011 Matteo Giribaldi Metodo Classico (Vino Spumante). Made with Pinot
Nero and Chardonnay cultivated in Piedmont’s Alta
Langa, this begins with a fragrance of white flowers,
pastry and honey. The creamy palate offers nectarine peel, yellow apple and a grapefruit note alongside a smooth, soft mousse. Opera Wine Imports.
—K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
90
Rivetti Massimo 2008 Duemilaotto Metodo
Classico (Vino Spumante). Made with Nebbiolo and Pinot Nero, this delivers freshness and
structure. Intriguing aromas suggest rose, tilled
earth, red apple, berries and a whiff of cake spices.
The palate offers wild cherry and cinnamon alongside an elegant, persistent mousse and crisp acidity.
Enjoy through 2018. Superior Wines. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
89
Masari NV Leon Metodo Classico Durello
(Vino Spumante). Made with native grape
Durello and with no dosage, this offers aromas of
white spring flowers and red apples. The palate delivers citrus peel and almond alongside crisp acidity
and a vibrant mousse. It finishes bone-dry. JC Cellars. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $45
89
Rivetti Massimo 2009 Deuemilanove Metodo Classico (Vino Spumante). A blend of
50% Nebbiolo, 30% Pinot Nero and 20% Chardonnay, this elegant wine conveys an alluring fragrance
of white flowers, exotic fruit and bread crust. The
palate offers ripe red apple, walnut, pastry dough
and spice alongside a silky perlage and soft acidity.
Superior Wines. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
88
Borgo Maragliano 2009 Giovanni Galliano
Brut Rosé (Vino Spumante). Made with Pinot Nero, this delivers a fragrance of rose, violet and
woodland berry. The bright palate offers red cherry,
strawberry, white pepper and a note of bread dough.
A soft perlage lends elegance. Cavatappi Distribuzione. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $29
88
Casebianche 2012 La Matta (Vino Spumante). Bright and savory, this offers sensations of bread crust, apple, juicy citrus and walnut
alongside an earthy minerality. Vibrant acidity and
persistent bubbles end on a clean, refreshing note.
Acid Inc Selections. —K.O.
abv: 11%
Price: $19
88
Destro 2010 Saxanigra Metodo Classico Brut
(Vino Spumante). Fragrances recall white
spring flowers, lemon zest, nectarine and green
Beni di Batasiolo 2008 Metodo Classico
(Vino Spumante). Made from Pinot Nero
and Chardonnay, this delivers sensations of bread
crust, toasted walnut, lemon drop and red apple. Vivacious bubbles and crisp acidity leave an invigorating finish. Boisset Family Estates. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $39
87
Ca’ Rugate NV Fulvio Beo Metodo Classico
Brut (Vino Spumante). This is made with native grape Garganega, the main grape behind Soave.
A fruity fragrance of green apple and white peach
carries to the palate along with notes of candied
lemon peel. Fresh acidity adds brightness. Massanois Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
87
Ca’ Rugate NV Fulvio Beo Rosé Metodo Classico Brut (Vino Spumante). Made from native grape Molinara, this opens with aromas that
recall red cherry and a whiff of hay. The palate offers
wild strawberry, crunchy apple, pink grapefruit and
white almond alongside lively acidity. Massanois
Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
87
Cordero di Montezemolo NV Montezemolo
Brut (Vino Spumante). Made with 95%
Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Noir, this opens with
aromas of toasted walnut, yellow apple skin and a
whiff of liqueur. The palate delivers lemon peel and
a hint of honey alongside vigorous bubbles. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $26
87
Luretta 2010 Principessa Pas Dosé (Vino
Spumante). A blend of 60% Chardonnay
and 40% Pinot Nero, this delivers yellow apple,
honeydew melon, passion fruit and citrus flavors.
It’s crisp and refreshing, with vibrant acidity and
brisk bubbles. WineBee.com. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
87
Zymè 2008 Metodo Classico Brut (Vino
Spumante). Made with 100% Pinot Nero,
this conveys aromas of Cognac, walnut and mature
apple. The apple sensation carries over to the palate, which also offers candied nectarine slices, ginger and roasted nut alongside bright acidity. Banville Wine Merchants. —K.O.
abv: 12%
Price: $48
86
Borgo Maragliano 2009 Giuseppe Galliano
Brut (Vino Spumante). Aromas recall roasted hazelnut, citrus peel and a whiff of apple skin.
The palate offers tangy lemon and mature Golden
Delicous apple alongside soft acidity. Cavatappi Distribuzione. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
86
Luretta NV Principessa Brut (Vino Spumante). Aromas of green apple, dill, bread crust
and almond continue on to the palate along with a
hint of thyme. It has medium-sized, persistent bubbles that carry through to the off-dry finish. WineBee.com. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
86
Luretta 2011 On Attend Les Invites (Vino
Spumante). Aromas of pink grapefruit,
candied red cherry and cinnamon carry on to the
palate. Zesty acidity brightens the palate alongside
vigorous bubbles. WineBee.com. —K.O.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
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Costaripa NV Brut (Vino Spumante). Aromas of yellow apple, bread crust, ginger and
grilled sage all carry over to the palate. Assertive
bubbles and brisk acidity leave a clean finish. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $38
Costaripa NV Rosé (Vino Spumante). A blend
of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir,
this straightforward sparkler conveys aromas of red
berry, mature apple and toasted nut. The palate offers cherry, strawberry and roasted almond notes
alongside sharp acidity. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $36
G D Vajra NV N. S. della Neve Extra Brut (Vino
Spumante). Made from 50% Nebbiolo and
50% Pinot Nero, this informal but savory sparkler
starts with aromas of red berry, toasted nuts and
pink grapefruit. The bright palate offers red cherry, strawberry, walnut and a hint of white pepper
alongside fresh acidity and persistent bubbles. Martin Scott Wines. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
Ciù Ciù NV Brut Altamarea (Vino Spumante).
Made from Marche’s Passerina grape, this
offers zesty citrus, apple, butterscotch and vanilla
sensations. The mouthfeel is a bit rough because of
hard-edged bubbles. Villa Italia. —K.O.
abv: 12%
Price: $22
Saladini Pilastri NV Pecorino Brut (Vino
Spumante). Made from organically farmed
grapes, this sparkling wine from Central Italy has
tangy citrus, apple and nutty sensations. Big, steely
bubbles and vivacious acidity create a somewhat
rough mouthfeel. Saranty Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12%
Price: $26
Ambo Secco NV Metodo Classico Brut (Vino
Spumante). Aromas of yellow apple skin
and walnut carry over to the palate along with a bitter, medicinal note and aggressive bubbles. There’s
not much fruit richness here. Alma Wines. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $39
WINEMAG.COM | 39
BUYINGGUIDE
OTHER SPARKLING WINES
92
Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Dubl + (Campania). For full review see page 7.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $44
88
Tasca d’Almerita 2010 Almerita Brut (Contea di Sclafani). Made with 100% Chardonnay, this Sicilian sparkler opens with yeasty aromas
of toasted bread crust and whiffs of fragrant flowers.
The vibrant palate delivers citrus and yellow apple
alongside a polished mousse. Winebow. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $56
85
La Travaglina 2009 Julillae Cruasé Brut (Oltrepò Pavese). Made with Pinot Nero, this
conveys subtle aromas of red berry and a whiff of
bread dough. The palate offers dried cherry, raspberry and a note of bitter almond husk alongside
vigorous bubbles and sharp acidity. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
85
Teanum 2011 Tiati Metodo Classico Brut
(Puglia). Hailing from Puglia, this is made
from native grapes Bombino (60%) and Aglianico
(40%). Aromas of green apple, vanilla and peach
carry over to the palate along with bread crust and
a confectionary note. It has brisk acidity and sharp,
vivacious bubbles. Justin Brass Eceptional Wine
Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12%
Price: $27
GERMANY
RIESLING AUSLESE
96
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2012 Wehlener Sonnenuhr
Riesling Auslese Goldkap (Mosel). A melange of rose petals, lychee, caramel and honey
scent this stunningly aromatic Riesling. It’s unctuously creamy on the palate—silky and rich in sweet
grapefruit and mango flavors—but deftly touched
with acidity and minerality as well. A masterpiece
now, but sure to captivate further from 2020 and
beyond. Valckenberg International, Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $125
95
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2012 Graacher Himmelreich
Riesling Auslese Goldkap (Mosel). Saffron
and exotic spice dust aromas of honey and apples
on this deeply layered, complex wine. The palate
is sweet with peach nectar and preserves, yet balanced with streaks of acidity and crushed minerals.
Silken on the tongue, it lingers endlessly with a kiss
of honeysuckle. Wonderful now, but sure to develop
it’s honeyed, mineral complexity from 2020 on.
Valckenberg International, Inc. Cellar Selection.
—A.I.
abv: 7%
Price: $112
40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
94
Dr. Loosen 2012 Erdener Treppchen Riesling
Auslese (Mosel). For full review see page 3.
Cellar Selection.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $64
94
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2012 Bernkasteler Badstube
Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Whiffs of smoke,
wet earth and pressed apples seem subtle on the
nose of this dainty auslese, belying the shock of
sweet tangerine and grapefruit flavors that flood
the palate. A nervous fringe of acidity bristles the
palate, cutting through streaks of honey and nectar.
It’s powerful and concentrated, yet ephemeral in its
delicacy. Valckenberg International, Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $49
sweetness could dance on the palate, but the finish
lingers long with a streak of honey, wax and lanolin. Delicious now, but it’s components should meld
gorgeously from 2017 and on. Broadbent Selections,
Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $55
92
Dr. Loosen 2012 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Pink grapefruit and
waxy lanolin notes entice on this intensely fruity,
honey-kissed Riesling. Medium sweet in style, it’s
chock full of luscious pineapple and blossom notes,
but nervous with bristling lemon-lime acidity.
Gorgeously balanced, yet decadently enjoyable, it
lingers endlessly on the finish. Loosen Bros. USA.
—A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $64
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Dr. Loosen 2012 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling
Auslese (Mosel). Flavors of honey tangerines and quince preserves resonate deeply in this
sweet-tangy Riesling full of fruit and blossom flavors. So sprightly and brisk, it dances delicately on
the tongue, yet lingers long with a murmur of lime
zest astringency. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $64
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2012 Wehlener Sonnenuhr
Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Whiffs of chalk
and slate lend a mineral tone to aromas of honey
and white peach on this unctuously sweet, yet nuanced Riesling. Ripe mango and yellow cherry flavors are densely concentrated on the palate, yet lifted by bursts of tangerine acidity. Finishes endlessly
long with a lingering spray of blossoms. Valckenberg
International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $57
St. Urbans-Hof 2012 Ockfener Bockstein
Erste Lage Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Sugar
cookies dusted with saffron and blossom notes
perfume this dancing, delicate sweet Riesling. It’s
so subtle and brisk on the palate, but wispy lines
of stone fruit, pollen and honey build dramatically through a long, lingering finish. HB Wine Merchants. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $60
Dr. Hermann 2012 Erdener Prälat Goldkap
Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Crushed stone
notes lend complexity to blossom and honey aromas
on this powerful yet delicately framed Riesling. The
palate bursts with sweet, summery peaches, but
quivers nervously with touches of lime and lemon
acidity. It’s delicious now for it’s fruity exuberance,
but those honeyed mineral tones should deepen deliciously from 2020 on. Broadbent Selections, Inc.
Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $55/375 ml
92
Dr. Hermann 2012 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Fresh orange peels
lend a zesty vibe to summer melon and peach flavors
in this decadent, sun-kissed Riesling. It’s so delicate in texture, it’s as if gossamer layers of acid and
Ulrich Langguth 2012 Piesporter Günterslay
Riesling Auslese (Mosel). A streak of lemonlime acidity jolts the senses on this unctuously ripe
Riesling full of sweet orange and tangerine flavors.
It’s dancing and light on it’s feet, yet powerfully
packed with honey and nectar. Penetrating and persistent on the palate. Saranty Imports. —A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $35
Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2012 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese (Mosel).
Scents of honey and freshly pressed apples waft
from this delicate sweet Riesling. Bright, sunny
peach flavor dominates the palate, but is pierced
with a startling vein of lemon acidity. Finishes a savory with lingering notes of pollen and spice. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 7%
Price: $95
Dr. Loosen 2012 Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese (Mosel). There’s a heady bouquet of
blossom and stone fruit on this lavishly aromatic
Riesling that persists from nose to finish. The palate is ripe and juicy, penetrating with honey, yellow cherry and apricot flavors, but cut with a zesty
streak of grapefruit and limes. Finishes endlessly
long. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $114
Louis Guntrum 2012 Oppenheim Herrenberg Riesling Auslese (Rheinhessen). Dusty,
earthy, soil and mineral notes lend complexity to
sprightly lemon and honey aromas on this sweet,
concentrated Riesling. The palate reverberates with
tangy citrus flavors that cap off on a lingering kiss of
honeysuckle. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $28
90
Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2012 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Pristine apple and lemon aromas are glazed
with honey on this sprightly, fresh sweet Riesling.
The palate gushes with juicy nectarine and peach
flavors, but maintains brisk composure from start
to finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $53
90
Dr. Hermann 2012 Erdener Prälat Riesling
Auslese (Mosel). Hints of crushed stone
lend a mineral tone to honeysuckle scents on this
sweet, light-footed Riesling. The palate balances
lavish, ripe tangerine flavor with a nervy streak of
lime acidity. It’s dancing and delicate on the tongue,
yet leaves a long, lingering impression. Broadbent
Selections, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $70
90
Dr. Heyden 2012 Oppenheimer Sackträger
Riesling Auslese (Rheinhessen). While
scents of lemon and dried tarragon seem savory on
the nose, this sweet, delicately textured Riesling
drips with sweet pineapple and honey flavors. The
palate shrieks with lemon-lime acidity, but balances squarely with a lingering kiss of blossom. Winesellers Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 7%
Price: $23
89
Maximin Grünhäuser 2012 Abtsberg Riesling
Auslese (Mosel). Savory scents of wet earth
and ramps blow off to reveal layers of honey and
apricot on this silky, delicately textured Riesling.
Tangy yellow peach and nectarine flavors are bright
and brisk on the palate, accented by a shower of citrus acidity on the finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 7%
Price: $76
RIESLING SPÄTLESE
94
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2012 Graacher Himmelreich
Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). A dusting of
crushed slate accents pretty blossom and peach
notes on the nose of this elegant yet remarkably
powerful Riesling. It’s delicately textured, but accumulates rich, ripe, juicy stone fruit and melon
flavors as it extends through the palate. Honey
and lemon make the finish endlessly lip-smacking.
Valckenberg International, Inc. Editors’ Choice.
—A.I.
abv: 9%
Price: $42
93
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2012 Bernkasteler Badstube
Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Zesty orange
peels, honey and peaches scent this aromatic semisweet Riesling. Apricot and yellow cherry flavors
are pristine yet ripe, ruffled on the palate by a shower of sunny lemon acidity. Finishes long on a waxy,
sweet honeycomb note. Valckenberg International,
Inc. —A.I.
abv: 9%
Price: $39
93
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2012 Wehlener Sonnenuhr
Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Orange rind and
exotic spices lend a mysterious appeal to ripe, rich
flavors of melon, mango and peach on this intoxicating, unctuous Riesling. It’s sunny and sweet on the
palate, but tart tangerine acidity makes it refreshingly thirst quenching. Valckenberg International,
Inc. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $48
92
Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2012 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Spätlese (Mosel).
While the nose is savory with dusty mineral and
earth tones, the palate of this semi-sweet Riesling
is intensely concentrated with juicy, ripe peach and
marmalade flavors. It’s lacy and light in texture, but
penetrating fruit flavors linger long on the finish.
Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $76
92
Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2012 Bernkasteler alte
Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Spätlese
(Mosel). Sun-kissed, tropical fruit tones abound
on this intensely aromatic medium-sweet Riesling.
Round and rich on the palate, it’s concentrated with
flavors of pineapple, mango and peach touched by
hints of honeysuckle and saffron. Finishes with dramatic length and penetration. Winesellers Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $34
91
Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef)
2012 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Spatlëse
(Mosel). Savory notes of saffron and pressed apple
are countered by heady blossom and honey on this
elegantly balanced Riesling. The palate is unctuously fruity with flavors of sweet peach and hibiscus nectar, but cut with a shock tangerine acidity
that reverberates through the finish. Winesellers
Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $58
91
Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) 2012
Bernkasteler Graben Riesling Spatlëse (Mosel). Peaches and honeysuckle seem to perfume
this lavish, aromatic semi-sweet Riesling. The palate is lush with sweet yellow cherries and peaches,
yet balanced by sunny lemon acidity and a crush of
minerals that linger on the finish. Winesellers Ltd.
—A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $28
91
Louis Guntrum 2012 Nierstein Rehbach Riesling Spätlese (Rheinhessen). Fresh green
herbs and zesty white grapefruits scent this brisk,
revitalizing Riesling. Sweet peach and mango flavors
are concentrated, but bristling layers of wet steel
and crushed stone lend a mineral complexity that
drives the finish. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $24
91
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2012 Graach Josephshöfer Riesling Spätlese GL (Mosel).
Spring blossoms and white peaches perfume this
dainty, delicate Riesling. The palate penetrates
deeply with apricot and marmalade flavor, but brash
lemon-lime acidity and crisp, revitalizing minerality
keep the wine refreshing and quaffable. Valckenberg
International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $NA
91
St. Urbans-Hof 2012 Leiwener Laurentiuslay
Erste Lage Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Rich,
ruddy peach and tangerine scents are fleshy and
ripe on this lavishly fruit-forward Riesling. Semi-
sweet in style, it’s unctuously juicy, but a jolt of
grapefruit acidity adds balance and vibe. The finish
is marked with a spray of citrus blossom. HB Wine
Merchants. —A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $55
91
Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider 2012 Niersteiner Hipping Riesling Spätlese (Rheinhessen). Hints of pine frond, earth and smoke entice
on the nose of this unusual, remarkably well-priced
Riesling. Semi-sweet in style, it’s rich and creamy
on the palate with luscious peach and grapefruit
flavors. It’s surprising nuanced too, exposing layers
of steel, crushed mineral and acid that meld beautifully through a long finish. Winesellers Ltd. Editors’
Choice. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $18
90
Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2012 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Tangerine and pineapples scent this intensely
ripe semi-sweet Riesling. The palate is fleshy with
peach concentrate, but touches of dusty slate and
mineral lend elegance. Sunny citrus acidity shines
softly through the finish. Valckenberg International,
Inc. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $37
90
Dr. Heyden 2012 Oppenheimer Sackträger
Riesling Spätlese (Rheinhessen). A whiff
of saffron lends exotic flair to zesty lemon on this
sprightly semi-sweet Riesling. On the palate, green
herb and floral notes meld with refreshing white
grapefruit and lime flavors that linger long and elegantly on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 9%
Price: $18
90
Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2012 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Ripe, rich
yellow peaches and nectarines abound on this lush,
fruity, yet elegantly structured, Riesling. While medium-sweet with a deliciously sunny, almost tropical, disposition, it’s kept in check by a jolt of lemon
acidity, along with delicate mineral tones on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 9%
Price: $33
89
Dr. Loosen 2012 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Smoke and dusty
earth notes waft from this semi-sweet Riesling,
adding a mineral tone to luscious yellow peach
and cherry flavors on the palate. While satisfyingly
juicy, it’s brisk and sprightly in mouthfeel, with an
energetic streak of lemon-lime acidity on the finish.
Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $34
89
Weingut Geil 2012 Eimsheimer Sonnenhang
Riesling Spätlese (Rheinhessen). While a
tad savory and earthy on first whiff, this semi-sweet
Riesling is surprisingly fruity on the palate, bursting
with concentrated grapefruit and tangerine flavors.
It’s a satisfying sip that’s zesty and tart with lemonlime acidity. Total Wine & More. —A.I.
abv: 9%
Price: $18
WINEMAG.COM | 41
BUYINGGUIDE
88
Bollig-Lehnert 2012 Trittenheimer Apotheke
Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Wisps of smoke
offer a savory introduction to this semi-sweet
Riesling full of honey and yellow peach flavors. It’s
straightforward in style, yet unabashedly tasty with
ripe, lush fruit countered by a shock of tangerine
acidity. Finishes moderately long with lingering
hints of pollen and honeysuckle. Winesellers Ltd.
—A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $18
87
Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef)
2012 Riesling Spatlëse Trocken (Mosel).
Zesty lime and lemon aromas are touched with wet
slate on this dry, refreshingly lean Riesling. It’s demure in fruit profile, but vibrant with acidity and a
bristling mineral tone. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $30
85
Johann Falkenburg 2012 Late Harvest Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Unctuously ripe yellow peach and cherry aromas entice on the nose of
this sprightly late-harvest Riesling. It’s semi-sweet
and fruity, with tart tangerine acidity that takes the
spotlight on the palate. A refreshing, tasty quaffer
for a remarkable price. Prestige Wine Group. Best
Buy. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $10
85
Leonard Kreusch 2012 Bernkasteler Kurfürstlay Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Fleshy, slightly overripe aromas of yellow peach and nectarine
extend from nose to finish on this semi-sweet Riesling. It’s crisp and refreshing with tangerine acidity, but a dusty, pollen note distracts on the finish.
Leonard Kreusch, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $15
RIESLING KABINETT
92
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2012 Graacher Himmelreich
Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Hints of smoke
and earth lend a mineral tone to this elegant, blossom-scented Riesling. It’s off-dry in style, filling the
mouth with juicy, concentrated quince and yellow
cherry flavors, but maintains a stately composure
with brisk grapefruit acidity and a lean, lingering
vein of struck slate and stone. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $33
91
Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2012 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Dusty mineral tones fade to reveal a glorious
perfume of blossoms and grapefruit on this elegant,
aromatic Riesling. Semi-dry in style, it’s pristine
with sun-kissed peach and melon flavors accented
by a shower of tangerine acidity. Enjoy now for it’s
youthful beauty. Valckenberg International, Inc.
—A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $32
91
Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2013 Bernkasteler alte
Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Kabinett
42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
(Mosel). Luscious honeydew and mango aromas entice on this fruit forward yet elegantly styled Riesling. It’s off dry in style, yet powerfully concentrated
with peach and tangerine flavors. Brisk with acidity
and nuanced with hints of tea leaf and honey, it’s
a beautifully complex, yet effortlessly quaffable sip.
Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $26
91
St. Urbans-Hof 2012 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen
Erste Lage Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Zesty
limes and lemons brighten aromas of fresh pear
on this irresistibly nimble-bodied Riesling. Ripe
tangerine and peach flavors are semi-sweet on the
palate, but zippy with acidity and a delicate fringe
of minerals that lend complexity to the finish. HB
Wine Merchants. —A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $25
91
St. Urbans-Hof 2011 Riesling Kabinett Feinherb Wiltinger Alte Reben (Mosel). Whiffs of
caramelized sugar and smoked nuts accent aromas
of ripe, concentrated peaches and nectarines on
this intensely juicy semi-sweet Riesling. It’s fruitiness makes it unabashedly approachable, but it’s
stately in feel with bold mineral and smoky earth
tones that linger on the finish. HB Wine Merchants.
Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $20
90
Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2012 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett (Mosel).
Dusty mineral notes accent aromas of fresh lemon
and pear on this racy, light-footed Riesling. The palate is sweet with ripe grapefruit and Meyer lemon
flavors, but touched with earthy hints of pollen and
saffron that linger on the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $50
90
Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2012 Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Scents of waxy lemon peels and candles meld with delicate peach on
this refreshing off-dry Riesling. On the palate, hints
of lemon verbena and lime zest lend a herbal tone
that highlights the wine’s revitalizing lime-juice finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $32
90
Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2013 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Zesty tangerine and lemon peels accent citrusblossom aromas on this pert, light-bodied Riesling.
Off dry in style, the palate showcases layers of sweet
yellow peach and apricot dusted with earthy pollen
and saffron. A shock of pineapple acidity extends
the finish. Vinum Cos. —A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $18
90
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2012 Bernkasteler Badstube
Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Zesty orange and
tangerine rinds are marked with honey and sweet
spice on the nose of this exuberant off-dry Riesling.
Ripe peach, melon and yellow-cherry flavors are
lush and sweet on the palate, but countered with
a jolt of lime and lemon acidity. It’s a beautifully
nuanced wine that’s effortlessly tasty. Valckenberg
International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 10%
Price: $31
90
Maximin Grünhäuser 2012 Abtsberg Riesling
Kabinett (Mosel). Saffron and pollen notes
dust juicy pink grapefruit and melon flavors on this
dancing, delicate Riesling. It’s lithe and nimble in
body, but concentrated with sunny fruit and snappy
with acidity. A quaffable, yet remarkably nuanced
semi-sweet Riesling. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $38
90
Maximin Grünhäuser 2012 Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Dried oregano and
sage notes lend a dusty, savory tone to the nose
of this racy, light-bodied kabinett. The palate, by
contrast, surprises with layers of lush, ripe tropical fruit cut with a razor’s edge of acidity and lime
zest. Finishes snappy and bright. Loosen Bros. USA.
—A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $34
89
Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2013 Bernkasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling
Kabinett (Mosel). Wild, tropical fruit aromas are
marked with saffron and pollen on the nose of this
zingy, extroverted Riesling. Off dry in style, the palate is thirst quenching with sunny tangerine and
peach flavors lifted by a vein of lemon acidity. Finishes moderately long on a sweet, honeyed note Vinum Cos. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $28
89
Markus Molitor 2012 Bernkasteler Badstube
Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Grapefruits and
white blossoms linger from start to finish on this
intensely aromatic Riesling, highlighting flavors of
sweet peach and honey. It’s off dry in style, but has
a warm, caramelized tone that offsets brisk acidity.
Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I.
abv: 10%
Price: $20
88
Bollig-Lehnert 2012 Trittenheimer Apotheke
Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). A deep vein of
smoke and mineral tones lend a stately, savory tone
to this semi-sweet Riesling full of juicy pink grapefruit and honey flavors. Spicy, exotic saffron notes
linger warmly on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $18
88
Dr. Fischer 2012 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling
Kabinett (Mosel). Savory whiffs of ramps
and pollen blow off with aeration to reveal fresh
scents of tangerine and apple. On the palate, it’s
off dry with intensely concentrated flavors of pink
grapefruit and white peach. Zesty lime acidity lingers on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 9%
Price: $20
88
Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2013 Graacher
Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). The
nose of this off-dry Riesling is savory with scents of
pressed apple and pear melding with smoked nuts
and earth. The palate, by contrast, is ripe and rich
with summer peaches. It’s an interesting juxtaposition of profiles, and brisk acidity keeps it refreshing
and quaffable. Vinum Cos. —A.I.
abv: 10%
Price: $23
88
Dr. Hermann 2012 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Intense aromas of
smoke and earth blow off to reveal a summer-sweet
bounty of peaches and yellow cherries. It’s concentrated and honeyed, but struck with an eye-opening
jolt of tart tangerine and lemon acidity. The finish is
brisk and cutting. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $22
88
Dr. Loosen 2012 Blue Slate Riesling Kabinett
(Mosel). Smoke and exotic spice notes accent ripe peach and apple aromas on this sprightly
off-dry Riesling. The palate reverberates with zesty
white-grapefruit and lime flavor, augmented by a
sunny streak of honey on the finish. Loosen Bros.
USA. —A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $22
88
Dr. Loosen 2012 Erdener Treppchen Riesling
Kabinett (Mosel). Hints of nuts and pressed
apple lend a savory tone to the nose of this off-dry
Riesling, but the palate is fresh and fruity with crisp
peach and apricot flavors. Tingly lemon-lime acidity
jolts the palate towards a long, mineral-kissed finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $28
88
Schmitt Söhne 2013 Thomas Schmitt Private Collection Estate Bottled Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). For full review see page 12.
abv: 9%
Price: $16
87
Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef)
2012 Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Dusty saffron and spicy orange peel waft amidst honey and
apple aromas on this brisk, semi-sweet Riesling. It’s
bright and zesty on the palate with fresh lemon and
apple flavors, but that dusty mineral tone persists
through the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $20
87
St. Urbans-Hof 2012 Ockfener Bockstein Erste Lage Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Whiffs of
pollen, saffron and spring ramps lend a savory tone
to this semi-sweet Riesling. Waxy orange-peel and
tangerine flavors brighten the palate, along with a
nervy streak of lemon-lime acidity on the finish. HB
Wine Merchants. —A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $22
86
Dr. Hermann 2012 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Smoke and savory
spice notes waft from this semi-sweet Riesling. Ripe
peach and grapefruit notes are juicy on the palate,
accented by zesty lime acidity and a delicate mineral
finish. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $22
85
Heinz Eifel 2012 Riesling Kabinett (Mosel).
The nose is demure on this brisk semi-dry
Riesling, but the palate is ripe with sweet yellow
peach and damson plum flavors. There’s a dusty undertone throughout, but crisp lemon acidity makes
it refreshing to the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $12
85
Leonard Kreusch 2012 Piesporter Michelsberg Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Ripe berries
and violets scent this heady, perfumed Riesling.
The palate is rich and confectionery in style with
candied cherry and honey notes that linger amidst
a dusty, earthy backdrop of crushed stones and minerals. It’s a brisk, but slightly unbalanced wine, yet
refreshing through the finish. Leonard Kreusch, Inc.
—A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $14
OFF-DRY RIESLING
90
Dr. Hermann 2012 From the Slate Off Dry
Riesling (Mosel). Delicate whiffs of orange
blossom and honeycomb scent this slightly off-dry
Riesling. The palate is ripe with honey and peach,
but elegantly balanced with lime acidity and a lingering touch of crushed-stone minerality. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $19
90
Peter Nicolay 2012 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Feinherb (Mosel). Honey-kissed peaches waft from this ripe, rich off-dry Riesling full of
juicy, luscious stone fruit and citrus. It’s quaffable
and thirst quenching, yet refreshingly brisk with a
lingering shower of lemon-lime acidity. Saranty Imports. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
88
Peter Nicolay 2012 Wehlener Klosterberg
Riesling Feinherb (Mosel). There’s an intense minerality that reverberates from nose to
finish on this off-dry Riesling. On the palate, sunny
lemon and honey notes are accented by a steely
streak of lime and steel that linger on the finish. Saranty Imports. —A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $20
87
Staatliche Weinbaudomäne Trier 2012 Avelsbacher Hammerstein Riesling Halbtrocken
(Mosel). Curious hints of sweet spice and chocolate
accent yellow plum and cherry flavors in this slightly off-dry Riesling. The palate boasts a penetrating array of fruit-salad flavors highlighted with a
streak of lemon and lime. Finishes moderately long.
Traubenhaus LLC. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
DRY RIESLING
93
August Kesseler 2012 Lorcher Schlossberger
Erste Lage Riesling (Rheingau). Whiffs of
pink grapefruit, guava and blossom entice on this
dry, yet lush, full-bodied Riesling. The palate is
round and ripe with flavors of yellow cherry and
peach, but it’s slick and steely with minerality too.
Finishes long with a line of focused acidity. Vineyard Brands. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $60
91
Dr. Loosen 2012 Erdener Prälat Alte Reben
GG Dry Riesling (Mosel). Fresh-cut grass and
green-floral notes lend vibe to heady apricot aromas
on this ripe, rich, lusciously textured Riesling. Dry
in style yet bold in body and alcohol, it’s kept in
balance by a streak of nervy acidity. Finishes with
a flair of potpourri and floral perfume. Loosen Bros.
USA. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
91
Fritz Haag 2012 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling
Trocken GG (Mosel). Smoke and crushed mineral notes open this dry, lusciously textured Riesling. It’s slightly savory on the palate, with layers of
apple and pear struck by zesty lime and lemon acidity. Powerful and structured, it penetrates long and
lean on the finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $42
91
Fritz Haag 2012 Brauneburg Juffer Sonnenuhr
Riesling Trocken GG (Mosel). Touches of
smoke and wet stone accent ripe peach and apricot aromas on this dry, boldly structured Riesling.
Despite it’s expansive mouth feel and body, it’s refreshingly brisk with flavors of crisp green apples
and limes. The finish is long, lean and steely. Rudi
Wiest Selections. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $56
91
Villa Wolf 2012 Wachenheimer Belz Dry Riesling (Pfalz). Stony mineral notes accent
fragrant blossom and grapefruit notes on this dry,
elegant Riesling. The palate is lean and steely, with
a distinct line of struck steel and lime, but it’s also
buoyantly fruity with notes of luscious white peach
and honey. A dramatic wine with a long, lingering
mineral finish. Loosen Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice.
—A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $26
90
August Kesseler 2012 Lorche Riesling Trocken (Rheingau). Waxy-white flowers and
grapefruit zest scent this elegantly structured, fullbodied Riesling. It’s dry and intensely mineral in
style, but ripe, concentrated flavors of white peach
and honeydew lend a lavish richness to the palate.
Finishes long and lean with a honed, steely focus.
Vineyard Brands. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $33
90
Dr. Loosen 2012 Ürziger Würzgarten Alte
Reben GG Dry Riesling (Mosel). The nose of
this dry Riesling is subdued with faint hints of blossom, wet stone and lime zest. The palate, however,
is anything-but subdued, with ripe yellow-cherry
and peach flavors that linger lusciously. Almost oily
in texture, it’s richly bodied, but brightened with
WINEMAG.COM | 43
BUYINGGUIDE
a sheen of lemon-lime acidity. Loosen Bros. USA.
—A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $42
pine forest, showing delicate notes of pine frond
and grass. It finishes briskly with cutting lemon and
apple flavors. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
90
page 10.
abv: 11%
90
86
90
89
86
90
89
85
90
Villa Wolf 2012 Wachenheimer Dry Riesling
(Pfalz). Rose petals and honey perfume this
gorgeously aromatic dry Riesling, accenting ripe,
succulent flavors of caramelized sugar and peaches
on the palate. It’s big bodied and slightly viscous in
mouthfeel, but a shock of grapefruit acidity lends
elegance and balance. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
August Kesseler 2012 Junge Reben Riesling
Trocken (Rheingau). The nose of this dry
Riesling is demure with delicate scents of lime and
lemon, but the palate is succulent and ripe with
juicy pink grapefruits, cherries and nectarines. It’s
lush with fruit yet squarely balanced with brisk
acidity and a zesty mineral finish. Vineyard Brands.
—A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $28
August Kesseler 2012 Rüdesheim Riesling
Trocken (Rheingau). Hints of lanolin and
honeycomb accent bright lemon zest and grapefruit
aromas on this dry, yet intensely juicy Riesling. On
the palate, squirts of yuzu and lime add tang to pristine honeydew flavors. Finishes moderately long
with a murmur of wet stones and crushed minerals.
Vineyard Brands. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $44
89
Villa Wolf 2012 Dry Riesling (Pfalz). Aromas
of crushed stones and smoke lend a dusty
mineral tone to this steely, savory-style Riesling. It’s
dry on the palate, yet refreshingly lean with a kick
of lemon-lime acidity that reverberates through
the finish. A surprisingly elegant wine at a bargain
price. Loosen Bros. USA. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
89
Villa Wolf 2012 Foster Pechstein Dry Riesling
(Pfalz). Orange blossoms and honey tangerines scent this elegant, aromatic dry Riesling. It’s
ripe and rich with white peach and yellow cherry
nectar, yet refreshingly honed and steely through
the finish. It’s a full bodied, yet focused wine. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $32
89
Von Schleinitz 2012 VS Estate Dry Riesling
(Mosel). A dusting of pollen and exotic
spice adds interest to aromas of savory apple and
lemon on this dry, medium-bodied Riesling. Fruit
flavors take a back seat on the palate to minerally
tones of crushed rock and steel. It’s a zesty wine
with a lean, focused finish. Scoperta Importing Co.
Inc. —A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $15
87
Dr. Loosen 2012 Red Slate Dry Riesling (Mosel). Whiffs of lanolin and honey lend
warmth to zesty lime aromas on this dry, briskly
structured Riesling. The palate is fresh like an al-
44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
Franz Krämer 2012 Zeltinger Himmelreich
Riesling Trocken (Mosel). While exuberantly floral and fruity on the nose, this dry, full-bodied
Riesling is surprisingly lean on the palate. It’s briskly structured, showing delicate flavors of tart apple
and lemon, and a crisp, biting finish. Golden Ram
Imports. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
Maximin Grünhäuser 2012 Herrenberg Alte
Reben Riesling Trocken (Mosel). Dust and
pollen notes linger from nose to finish on this dry,
full-bodied Riesling. Apple and pear flavors are a
tad savory, but brightened by crisp lemon acidity.
A refreshing and easy drinking wine. Loosen Bros.
USA. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $42
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2012 Wiltinger
Riesling Trocken (Mosel). Intense aromas
of savory spice and smoke lend a mysterious tone
to flavors of pressed apple and pear in this dry,
medium-bodied Riesling. The palate is bright with
lemon-lime acidity, but finishes on a dusty mineral
note. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $30
OTHER RIESLING
91
Richard Böcking 2012 Alte Reben Trarbacher
Schlossberg Riesling (Mosel). Whiffs of
candle wax and lime zest accent pretty floral notes
on this slightly off-dry Riesling. Flavors of yellow
cherries and peach are juicy and ripe on the palate,
extended through the finish with steely streaks of
mineral and acid. It’s an elegant wine with power
and complexity. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $43
90
Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2012 Riesling (Mosel). Ripe stone-fruit, pineapple
and tangerine flavors are marked by streaks of lime
and lemon acidity on this irresistibly vibrant semidry Riesling. Touches of berry lend a sweet, summery warmth that lingers on the finish. Enjoy now
for it’s fragrant, fruity exuberance. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $26
90
Dr. Hermann 2012 H Riesling (Mosel).
Crushed slate and mineral notes lend elegance to decadent yellow cherry and pineapple
notes on this juicy semi-sweet Riesling. Ripe and
lush yet brisk with acidity, it’s an approachable, irresistible and squarely balanced wine. Broadbent
Selections, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $16
Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium 2012 Fritz
Willi Riesling (Mosel). For full review see
Price: $17
Fritz Haag 2012 Riesling (Mosel). A whiff
of evergreen lends a cool, alpine touch to
white grapefruit and lemon notes on this refreshing, delectably fruity Riesling. The palate is just off
dry, bursting with ripe white peach and tangerine
flavors. It’s satisfyingly quaffable, yet finishes elegantly with a fringe of lime-zest tannins. Loosen
Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $22
Maximin Grünhäuser 2012 Abtsberg Superior Riesling (Mosel). While demure and
mineral at first whiff, this revitalizing Riesling blossoms on the nose as it aerates, accumulating layers
of citrus and floral aromas. Off-dry in style, it boasts
ripe yellow-cherry flavor streaked with lime-juice
acidity. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $60
Schloss Saarstein 2012 Riesling (Mosel).
Whiffs of smoke and struck flint persist
from nose to finish, lending dramatic minerality to
this otherwise juicy, fruity Riesling. Sunny peach
and tangerine flavors are semi-sweet on the palate, but it’s a refreshing wine with a honed elegance
throughout. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $16
90
St. Urbans-Hof 2012 Estate Bottled Old
Vines Riesling (Mosel). Waxy white flowers
and peaches scent this ripe, penetrating Riesling
full of sweet tangerine and stone-fruit flavors. Fresh
lime and mineral tones accent the palate, leading a
long, lingering finish. It’s effortlessly quaffable yet
elegant and complex. HB Wine Merchants. —A.I.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $18
89
HigHDef 2012 Riesling (Mosel). Ripe honeydew and yellow cherries perfume this
sunny, concentrated semi-sweet Riesling. It’s boldly
fruit forward in style, but focused acidity and a lean,
steely mineral tone gives it surprising depth and
complexity. It’s a great find for an excellent price.
Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 10%
Price: $12
89
Loosen Bros. 2012 Dr. L Riesling (Mosel).
Bees wax and smoke meld with unctuously sweet berry and yellow cherry flavors in this
squarely composed semi-sweet Riesling. It’s juicy
and fruity on the palate, but balanced with cutting
lemon acidity and a fresh, green flurry of grass and
herbs on the finish. Loosen Bros. USA. Best Buy.
—A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $12
89
Maximin Grünhäuser 2012 Riesling (Mosel).
A wisp of smoke weaves from nose to finish
on this slightly off-dry Riesling, accenting flavors
of savory apple and lemon. It’s a solidly structured
wine marked by a staunch vein of acidity and touches of struck flint and steel. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $22
89
Richard Böcking 2012 Devon Riesling (Mosel). Lusciously ripe white-peach and blossom notes perfume this pretty off-dry Riesling. It’s
rich, plump and round on the palate, but brightened
with a kiss of lime zest on the finish. Kysela Père et
Fils. —A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $22
89
Von Schleinitz 2013 VS Estate Riesling (Mosel). This gorgeously perfumed Riesling
balances heady blossom notes with aromas of zesty
lime and lemon. Off-dry on the palate, it’s chock full
of concentrated orange and mango flavors. Searing
lime acidity lends lift and vibe through a long, steely
finish. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $15
88
Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2012 Wehlener Klosterberg Riesling (Mosel). A veritable kaleidoscope of scents, this off-dry Riesling transitions frenetically from a range of aromas—grassy and herbal,
to stony and mineral, then suddenly ripe with stone
fruit and honey. The palate is juicy and quaffable
with sweet pink-grapefruit flavor accented by a
brisk, lemon-lime finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: NA
Price: $17
88
Lucashof 2012 Riesling (Pfalz). Supperripe peaches seemed to be dipped in honey
on the nose of this dry, voluptuous Riesling. Yellow cherry and plum flavors are plump and fleshy,
swirled together on the palate in a viscous, almost
oily, slick. Finishes elegantly with a streak of lime
and minerals. HB Wine Merchants. —A.I.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $14
and mineral tones. Finishes long with a lingering
tea-leaf astringency. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy.
—A.I.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $8
87
Leonard Kreusch 2012 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling (Mosel). While the nose of
this Riesling is fresh with scents of orange zest and
berries, the palate is unctuously ripe and rich with
sweet tropical fruit. It’s a lush, easy-going sip but
lively with acidity and irresistably tasty. Leonard
Kreusch, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $17
87
Schmitt Söhne 2012 Thomas Schmitt Private
Collection Estate Bottled Qualitätswein Riesling (Mosel). For full review see page 12.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $14
87
Ulrich Langguth 2012 Riesling (Mosel). Delicate quince and apple aromas are fringed
with foresty notes of pine needles on this bright,
medium-sweet Riesling. It’s brisk and breezy on
the palate, with sweet apple flavor struck with vivacious lemon-lime acidity. Deutsch Family Wine &
Spirits. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $13
86
Leonard Kreusch 2012 Riesling (Mosel).
Smoke and mineral tones lend a savoriness to flavors of pressed apples and pears on this
slightly rustic Riesling. The palate is sweet and sunny with brisk apple cider flavor touched with dried
sage and spice. Leonard Kreusch, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 9%
Price: $12
86
Schmitt Söhne 2012 Relax Riesling (Mosel).
For full review see page 13. Best Buy.
abv: 9%
Price: $10
87
Blue Fish 2012 Original Riesling (Pfalz). Fresh
apple and pear aromas are touched with
honey and saffron on this dry, easy drinking Riesling. Juicy peach and apple flavors are ripe on the
palate, but fringed with a bristle of lemon zest and
acid that reverberate on the finish. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
87
Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2012 Noble House Riesling (Mosel). Dusty tones of crushed rock
and soil lend a savory impression to this off-dry
Riesling. The palate, by contrast, is unctuously
fruity, accented with sweet peach and apricot flavors. Sunny and bright, it finishes with a shower
of soft Meyer-lemon acidity. Winesellers Ltd. Best
Buy. —A.I.
abv: 9%
Price: $12
87
Dr. Willkomm 2012 Blue River Riesling (Mosel). While sunny and ripe with scents of
tropical fruit, orange and peach, this bang-foryour-buck Riesling reveals surprising complexities.
It’s sweet and lusciously fruity on the palate, but
nuanced with rambling layers of dried herbs, earth
SPARKLING WINES
93
Peter Lauer NV Sekt Riesling Brut (Mosel).
Delicate floral notes mingle with smoke and
struck flint on this gorgeously composed Riesling
sparkling. The palate is delicately pétillant with
soft, tiny bubbles that fill the mouth with layers of
caramelized sugar, fresh pears, blossom and minerals. Striking acidity drives a long, umami-touched
finish. Vom Boden. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $38
92
Peter Jakob Kuhn 2012 Spätburgunder Rosé
Sekt Brut (Rheingau). Dancing on the nose
and palate, this Pinot Noir rosé fills the glass with
whiffs of cherry blossoms and sugar cookies. Tart
red-cherry and berry flavors are delicate and spry
on the palate, lingering nervously in a luscious
mousse of soft, rolling bubbles. Finishes elegantly
with a bristle of stony minerals. Domaine Select
Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
90
Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2011 Scharzhofberger Riesling Brut (Mosel). For full review
see page 10.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $30
90
Hansen-Lauer 2012 Sekt Riesling Brut (Mosel). A heady bouquet of orange blossoms
opens this lithe, vivaciously sparkling Riesling.
Delicately moussed, it’s elegant and spry on the palate with a shock of lemon-lime acidity that highlights luscious flavors of peach, apricot, honey and
blossom. Lingers long on the finish with a delicate
crushed-stone minerality. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
PINOT NOIR
92
Franz Keller 2012 Schwarzer Adler Pinot Noir
(Baden). For full review see page 7. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
92
Huber 2011 Pinot Noir (Baden). Crisp red
cherries are shaded with layers of toast and
Graham crackers, potpourri and dried herbs in this
complex, powerful Pinot Noir. Rich fruit is anchored
against zesty cranberry acidity and a penetrating,
yet finely textured coating of tannins that linger on
the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. Cellar
Selection. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $37
91
Franz Keller 2012 Franz Anton Schwarzer Adler
Pinot Noir (Baden). For full review see page 9.
abv: 13%
Price: $42
90
Huber 2011 Malterdinger Pinot Noir (Baden).
Delicate toast and cedar notes add warmth
to ripe black cherry aromas on this squarely balanced Pinot Noir. On the palate, crisp red cherry
and cranberry flavors are concentrated yet supple,
framed with a fringe of finely textured tannins.
Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $48
PORTUGAL
WHITE WINES
VINHO VERDE
92
Provam 2013 Portal do Fidalgo Alvarinho
(Vinho Verde). This is a great Alvarinho, full
of ripe and creamy fruit that is so pure and crisp
while bringing out a tight, mineral character. From
the north of Vinho Verde, across the river from
Spain, this shows the texture of the granite soil
combined with the exceptional ripeness of the fruit.
Age for a year, drink from the end of 2015. Admiral
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
WINEMAG.COM | 45
BUYINGGUIDE
90
J. Portugal Ramos 2013 Loureiro (Vinho
Verde). The Loureiro grape, grown mainly
in the Lima Valley in the center of Vinho Verde, produces a distinctly mineral style of wine. This wine
has that character as well as some riper tropical
fruit notes and pure citrus acidity. The combination
is intensely fruity and very refreshing. Winebow.
Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $9
90
Provam 2013 Varanda do Conde (Vinho
Verde). While the wine is beautifully fresh,
it is also structured with tense acidity, strong minerality and layers of citrus and tropical fruits. It’s
full of fruitiness and likely to be even better in 2016.
Admiral Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
90
Quinta de Paços 2013 Casa do Capitão-mor
Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). Named after the
13th-century house at the center of the estate, this
is a rich, full-bodied wine. With citrus flavors at its
heart, it also shows a texture that gives minerality
from the granite soil, followed by juicy yellow fruits
and finishing with intense acidity. Give this wine
until mid-2015 to settle down. Aidil Wines/Old
World Import. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
90
Quintas de Melgaco 2013 QM Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). Very crisp and still young, this
is a bright, citrus-driven wine with a strong steely
core. It has the potential to broaden out, with hints
already of peach and pineapple fruits and a ripe aftertaste. Drink from the end of 2015. M Imports,
LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
89
Quinta de Covela 2013 Edição Nacional Arinto (Vinho Verde). In northern Portugal, the
Arinto makes a ripe and creamy wine. Full-bodied
and rounded, this one delivers pineapple as well as
crisp apple fruits. It’s delicious now, but could do
with bottle aging until 2016. David Bowler Wine.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
89
Wines & Winemakers 2013 Toucas Alvarinho
(Vinho Verde). From the northern Vinho
Verde region of Melgaço which is the natural heartland of Alvarinho, this tangy, fruity wine bursts
with acidity and creamed apple flavors. It is still
young, a lively and fruity wine that will benefit from
some calming down and broadening out. Drink from
the end of 2015. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
88
Casa de Vilacetinho 2013 Colheita Seleccionada Avesso (Vinho Verde). This is a rich
style of Vinho Verde, smooth and ripe. Apricots
and marmalade oranges dominate the flavor profile,
while the citrus character pushes through strongly
at the end. It’s very fresh and could probably age until mid-2015. Santa Maria Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
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87
85
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Quintas de Melgaco 2013 QM Lagar Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). Very fresh, very crisp, this
tight, bright wine is as fresh as a daisy and demands
instant drinking. Citrus dominates, giving a bright
character, while hints of pineapple add a more exotic aftertaste. Screwcap. EcoValley. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
Adega Cooperativa Ponte de Lima 2013 Ponte
Loureiro (Vinho Verde). Named after the Roman bridge that still crosses the River Lima in the
Vinho Verde region, this wine is made from the best
local grape of the Lima Valley. It gives a bright, dry,
fruity wine with a touch of pepper and lively acidity.
Pink grapefruit and apples go with a tight texture.
Drink now. Iberian Wine Importers. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 11%
Price: $10
Casa de Vilacetinho 2013 Colheita Seleccionada Arinto (Vinho Verde). More commonly
found in the Lisboa region much further south in
Portugal, the Arinto is full of acidity and fits well
into the Vinho Verde profile. This wine is crisp with
plenty of apple and spice flavors as well as a strong
lime-juice freshness. It’s an attractive, mediumbodied wine to drink now. Santa Maria Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
87
Casa de Vilacetinho 2013 Colheita Seleccionada Loureiro (Vinho Verde). One of a series of
single-varietal wines from Vilacentinho, this Loureiro shows the fresh lemon character of the grape.
That goes along with white peach and pineapple to
give a crisp wine that also hints at a more exotic
series of flavors. A light prickle on the tongue makes
it very refreshing. Santa Maria Imports. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $13
86
Quinta de Covela 2013 Edição Nacional Avesso (Vinho Verde). This is a simple, mineraltextured, very drinkable wine with pear and crisp
grapefruit flavors that are ready to go. A crisp aftertaste with a final tang of fruit prove bright and
refreshing. David Bowler Wine. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
86
Quintas de Melgaco 2013 QM Blue (Vinho
Verde). Light and bright, this has a crisp
prickle on the tongue, along with canned grapefruit
and tight apple-skin flavors. It is almost dry, which
gives the wine a mineral texture that adds a bite.
Drink now. EcoValley. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 11%
Price: $9
85
Adega Cooperativa Ponte de Lima 2013
Ponte (Vinho Verde). Crisp, not quite dry,
this incorporates lively, fruity Loureiro grapes with
a touch of Trajadura and Arinto culled from Lima
Valley vineyards. With its light squeeze of lemon
and sliced apple and grapefruit flavors, it’s all about
freshness. Drink now. Iberian Wine Importers. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $10
Casa de Vilacetinho 2013 Colheita Seleccionada Azal (Vinho Verde). Azal is a comparatively rare grape to be vinified on its own, so this
example is something of a curiosity. It has plenty of
acidity and is a refreshing, appley wine suited for
summertime drinking, very chilled. Santa Maria
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $13
Casa de Vilacetinho 2013 Grande Escolha
(Vinho Verde). Fresh and lightly sparkling,
this is a crisp, citrus-driven wine. Its acidity is just
right, fruity while well integrated. Some sweetness
at the end makes it fine for apéritif drinking. Santa
Maria Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
Caves Aliança 2013 Aliança (Vinho Verde).
Soft, fruity and off dry, this is a typically
fresh and light-hearted Vinho Verde. Attractive
apple and lemon flavors shine through the lightly
prickly texture. Drink immediately. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 10%
Price: $6
84
Casa de Vilacetinho 2013 Vilacentinho (Vinho Verde). This medium-sweet, fruity wine
is both light and crisp. Attractive acidity contrasts
with the sparkling texture and the sugared citrus.
It’s very ready to drink. Santa Maria Imports. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 10%
Price: $8
84
José Maria da Fonseca 2013 Twin Vines (Vinho Verde). For full review see page 13. Best
Buy.
abv: 10%
Price: $8
MINHO
90
Quinta da Calçada 2012 Edição Reserva
(Minho). This is a blend of Alvarinho and
Loureiro from the best parcels of Calçada estate.
That gives it gravitas, that also comes through
strongly from the wood aging. Vanilla and green
fruits complement each other, leaving a wine that is
both rich and fresh. Drink now. International Vines,
Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $23
89
Obrigado 2013 Nortico Alvarinho (Minho).
This is a bright and lively wine, aromatic
and very fruity. Flavors of apple, lime and pink
grapefruit are right up there along with the crispest texture and a tangy, zesty aftertaste. This is for
drinking now. Obrigado Vinhos Portugal. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 11%
Price: $14
89
Quinta da Calçada 2013 Edição Terroir (Minho). With its crisp and strongly mineral
character, this is true terroir wine. It is stony, steely,
very textured, with the apple skin and strong pink
grapefruit citrus flavors pushing through to give a
fresh character at the end. The structure shows the
wine needs to age, so drink from late 2015. International Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $18
88
Quinta de Covela 2013 Escolha (Minho).
A smooth and creamy wine, this shows
warmth that is balanced by a brighter, crisper lemon and green apple flavors. Already attractive with
great fruitiness, it is refreshing while textured and
likely to age well through 2016. David Bowler Wine.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
87
Quinta da Calçada 2013 Edição Exuberant
(Minho). This is aromatic and, yes, exuberant in its bright fruitiness and total freshness. It’s
crisp with a cool character that is expressed in the
layers of citrus that dominate the wine. At the end,
a tangy texture offers a tight aftertaste. International Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 11%
Price: $18
DOURO
91
Conceito Vinhos 2012 Conceito (Douro). This
wine is a great mix of fruit and a tight texture.
The two are joined easily by the wood-aging flavors
that give a smoky character as well as toastiness.
The citrus and crisp peach skin acidity leave a lively
aftertaste. Drink from 2016. Vin de Terra Imports,
Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
91
Quanta Terra 2012 Grande Reserva (Douro). A
very spicy, wood-aged wine that has swathes
of very ripe yellow fruits with almost sweet acidity.
The fruits have weight, density and a toasty aftertaste. This impressive wine could wait and be drunk
from 2016. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
90
Conceito Vinhos 2013 Conceito (Douro).
Strong citrus and toast flavors give this rich
wine both a crisp texture and a smoother character
to support it. Well balanced, it’s full of bright acidity and the potential to age. Drink from 2017. Vin de
Terra Imports, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
89
Quanta Terra 2012 Reserva (Douro). Attractively ripe, this holds traditional Douro
white grapes rounded out with Chardonnay. There
is acidity enough to balance the rich yellow and
white fruit flavors. Mineral structure gives shape
to this finely-wrought wine. Aidil Wines/Old World
Import. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
89
Quinta de la Rosa 2013 Reserva Branco (Douro). This wood-aged wine is rich and full
of tropical fruits as well as a light touch of toast.
Crisp acidity lies in the background, giving freshness to the natural ripeness of the fruits. It’s still
young, still showing a strong, tangy texture, so wait
to drink until 2016. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $26
87
Poças 2013 Coroa d’Ouro (Douro). While the
wine is bright, there is a serious side to it.
The mineral texture and flavors of apricot and honey are paired with vanilla and grapefruit acidity. It
is ready to drink, but will be better in mid-2015.
Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
87
Quinta de la Rosa 2013 Dourosa Branco (Douro). This is a bright and fruity wine that is
also rich. Yellow fruits are accompanied by fresh,
textured citrus and given a crisp aftertaste by the
lively acidity. Drink now. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
87
Quinta de Porrais 2013 Porrais Branco (Douro). The 1,800-feet high vineyards perched
on scary-steep slopes in the upper Douro give the
wine the cool character it needs. Winemaker Francisco Olazabal, a direct descendant of the Douro’s
Dona Antonia Ferreira, nurtures this unusual white
wine (most Douro is red). It’s perfumed, fruity and
fresh. Acidity, tangy lemon and pineappletake center stage along with a steely inner core. Drink now.
New France Wine Co. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
86
Ramos-Pinto 2013 Duas Quintas Branco
(Douro). Soft, earthy and gentle, this is already developing and drinkable. It has fresh lemon
flavors along with bright pineapple. Finished with
bright acidity, it is lightly mineral and crisp at the
end. Drink now. Maisons Marques & Domaines
USA. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
86
Sobredos 2012 Aneto Branco (Douro). This
has crisp texture as well as flavors of yellow
fruits, a touch of toast and intensely textured acidity. It is young, bright with a fresh aftertaste. Drink
now. Matadorvino LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
86
Wines & Winemakers 2013 Andreza Branco
(Douro). Blending Douro’s native Viosinho
and Verdelho grapes, this is ripe, wood aged and
smooth. It has layers of citrus, grapefruit and white
fruits, apple juice and pears. It is fruity, fresh and
ready to drink. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
85
Conceito Vinhos 2013 Contraste Branco
(Douro). Deliciously crisp and fruity, this is
a bright, clean style of wine not showing much terroir character but is fresh and full of citrus fruits.
The acidity gives a refreshing lift at the end. Vin de
Terra Imports, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
84
Borges 2013 Quinta da Soalheira Branco
(Douro). Apricots and peaches dominate
this fresh and lively wine. It is ripe and crisp with a
herbal texture. Full of up-front fruit, it can be drunk
now, with its lightly perfumed aftertaste. Dionysos
Imports Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
84
Quevedo 2013 Oscar’s Branco (Douro).
Earthy, youthful aromas lead to a wine
that’s ripe while still finding its fruity character.
The potential for the citrus and apricot flavors is
there and should develop by mid-2015. P.R. Grisley
Company. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
DÃO
91
Magnum Vinhos 2013 Ribeiro Santo (Dão).
Subtle wood-aging flavors ally with rich,
tropical fruits. The rounded texture is suffused with
acidity as well as a warm, broad character. From the
Dão’s premier white grape, it is already delicious
although it will improve through 2018. Grape Moments. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
90
Caves Aliança 2013 Quinta da Garrida Branco
(Dão). Close to the Serra da Estrela, Portugal’s highest mountain range, the Quinta da Garrida
shows all the structure of Dão wines. This is a firmly
mineral wine, very textured with a hint of the oak
aging as well as more open yellow fruits. Drink from
2016. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
90
Pedra Cancela 2012 Branco (Dão). A blend
of Malvasia Fina and the great local grape
Encruzado, this rich, wood-aged wine is perfumed
and offers great fruitiness. Citrus and green plum
fruits mingle with pineapple. The texture and the
light toast give weight and add another dimension.
The wine can be drunk now, but will be better from
2015. Wine In-Motion. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
87
Pedra Cancela 2013 Seleção do Enólogo
(Dão). Ripe and perfumed, this has great
fruitiness and crisp acidity that suit the delicate
texture. The wine is completely ready to drink.
Wine In-Motion. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
BAIRRADA
90
Luis Pato 2013 Vinha Formal (Bairrada). Six
months barrel aging have given this wine
richness and spicy texture. It is rounded, full of
peach and white fruit flavors and with a complex
texture. It’s still young, drinkable now but much
better from 2016. Wine In-Motion. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
88
Caves Aliança 2013 Aliança Reserva Branco
(Bairrada). A blend of two local grapes,
WINEMAG.COM | 47
BUYINGGUIDE
Maria Gomes and Bical, this soft, resiny wine has
an intensely dry character. Apples as well as raisins
give an intriguing set of flavors. Drink from 2015.
Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
87
Campolargo 2012 Diga Branco (Bairrada).
Wood- aged, spicy and ripe, this is a generous wine. Its yellow and red apple fruitiness is balanced by the full-bodied perfumed character that is
already delicious. It’s not for aging, so drink now. M
Imports, LLC. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $25
LISBOA
92
Quinta do Monte d’Oiro 2011 Madrigal Viognier (Lisboa). Ripe and aromatic, this encapsulates the Viognier so well. Classic apricot flavors
are enhanced by a smoky, wood-aging character,
rich almonds and warm acidity. It’s a well-composed wine, now ready to drink. Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
88
DFJ Vinhos 2013 Aluado Alvarinho (Lisboa). Planting Alvarinho in the Lisboa region, many miles south of its native Minho, could
be risky. But winemaker José Neiva Correia took a
chance on the ocean-climate similarities and the
result is a wine that’s as fresh and crisp as possible.
Citrus, green plums and lively acidity all come together in a wine that has a bright, spicy aftertaste.
Lionstone International. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
88
Herdade do Rocim 2013 Vale de Mata Branco
(Lisboa). Full and rounded, the wine is rich
and smooth, cut with acidity and a steely, mineral texture. With Arinto, Vital and Viosinho in the
blend, pineapple and peach flavors are dominant
and ripe. It’s a full-bodied wine that is ready to
drink. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $21
88
Quinta da Romeira 2013 Prova Régia Arinto
(Lisboa). This rich and rounded wine is
full of attractive lemon and pineapple fruit. Light
steeliness gives a fresh character to the ripeness. It
is totally ready to drink. Wine In-Motion. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
88
Quinta do Monte d’Oiro 2013 Lybra (Lisboa).
This blend of Viognier and Arinto blends
the apricot flavors of the Viognier and the fresh
steeliness of Arinto in a bright while rounded package. It’s fruity, touched by vanilla and herbs and
given a final boost with crisp acidity. It’s ready to
drink. Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
87
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2013 Quinta dos
Loridos Alvarinho (Lisboa). Partly woodaged, this Alvarinho gives a smooth southern take
48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
on this northern Portuguese grape. It brings out
apricot and pineapple fruits as well as the more
typical lemon flavors. The acidity remains in place
to give a crisp, tight aftertaste. Grape Expectations
(CA). —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
87
Casa Santos Lima 2012 Quinta das Amoras Reserva Branco (Lisboa). This is a rich,
wood-aged wine with spice, apricot and ripe plum
fruits and a mineral texture. It is rounded as well as
fresh, crisp with acidity while full in fruits. Drink
this delicious wine now. HGC Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
85
Casa Santos Lima 2013 Cigarra (Lisboa).
Cigarra, a cricket, is common in the Lisboa
vineyards. The wine has a good mix of citrus and
yellow fruit flavors, crisp and ripe at the same time.
An attractive chalky, steely feel comes through in
the acidity and the tight, nervy aftertaste. Wine InMotion. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $8
85
Casa Santos Lima 2013 Palha Canas (Lisboa). This lightly perfumed wine is crisp
and clear. Apple and pear flavors are attractively
packaged in fresh acidity and an orange-peel tang.
The wine is still young, with its tight aftertaste, so
wait until later in 2015 to drink. Tri-Vin Imports.
Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
84
Casa Santos Lima 2013 Quinta das Amoras
Branco (Lisboa). Fresh and perfumed, this
offers attractive crisp acidity and apple juice flavors.
It’s light and bright, smooth and only slightly textured. With its grapefruit acidity, it’s a lively wine
to drink now. HGC Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $7
ALENTEJANO
92
J. Portugal Ramos 2013 Vila Santa Branco
Reserva (Alentejano). Both the Arinto and
Sauvignon Blanc in this blend give a fine balance
between herbaceous and tropical fruit flavors. So
the wine is both crisp and hinting at apricots. The
wood aging has broadened the fruit and added some
spice to the hint of steeliness at the end. Drink now,
but better from 2016. Winebow. Editors’ Choice.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21
90
Dona Maria-Júlio Bastos 2010 Dona Maria Amantis Reserva (Alentejano). This is
an impressively rich, wood-aged wine, spicy and
toasty. The fruitiness shows as ripe apricots that
are laced with honey. Vanilla and acidity add complexity to this full-bodied wine that is now ready to
drink. Grape Moments. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
89
Herdade Grande 2012 Reserva Branco (Alentejano). Full of ripe tropical fruits, this is
rich and opulent. Apricot, mango and peach all feature along with spice from wood aging. All this ripe
fruit is balanced by fresher acidity. It’s a powerful
wine touched with pepper, full in the mouth and
packed with fruit and toast. Drink from 2015. M
Imports, LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
88
Herdade Grande 2013 Colheita Seleccionada
(Alentejano). Very light wood aging gives a
complex dimension without losing the ripe yellow
fruits that give the wine its rich character. Fresher
acidity is integrating well with the spice and vanilla.
Drink in 2016. M Imports, LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
88
Roquevale 2011 Reserva (Alentejano). A
rich, spicy wood-aged wine, this has as
much vanilla as fruit. That gives a strongly toasty
character to the wine that needs to soften to bring
out the green plum and melon flavors and the acidity. It’s obviously a ripe wine, leaving a pepper character from the alcohol at the end. Vintage Imports,
Inc. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
87
Herdade do Rocim 2013 Olho de Mocho Reserva (Alentejano). This wood-aged wine is soft
and round. Touches of spice and vanilla partner
with warm pear and peach flavors. It is still young,
still integrating the wood with the fruit. Drink from
2016. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $42
87
Monte da Penha 2013 Branco (Alentejano).
There is a ripe, toasty character to this wine
from the Fino family. It has spice as well as white
peach and lime acidity. A crisp side gives structure,
while a tang and mineral edge adds complexity. Age
until 2016. Gabriella Fine Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
86
Cortes de Cima 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Alentejano). This ripe wine has currant aromas
and a soft texture offering perfumed pears and ripe
apricots. It’s richly endowed, rounded with a layer
of acidity at the end. Drink now. Tri-Vin Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
86
Herdade do Rocim 2013 Branco (Alentejano). The freshest fruit is balanced with
vanilla and spice flavors. Crisp apples have light,
bright acidity, freshened further with lemon and
lime fruitiness that leaves an open, full and generous aftertaste. The wine will be better in 2016.
Langdon Shiverick. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
86
Magnum Vinhos 2013 Flor de Maio Mayflower (Alentejano). Broad and ripe, this has a
feeling of pure fruitiness with its flavors of citrus,
apple and rich green plum. The texture is smooth
with just the right acidity to keep it fresh. Drink
now. Grape Moments. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
86
Wines & Winemakers 2013 Lua Cheia em
Vinhas Velhas Album Antão Vaz (Alentejano). Yellow fruits and apple juice combine in this
fresh, mineral-driven wine. It’s tangy, tight with
acidity while allowing room for pineapple and tropical flavors at the end. It’s ready to drink but will be
better in 2016. Best Brands Incorporated. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
85
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2013 Quinta
do Carmo Branco Portuguese White (Alentejano). Quinta do Carmo, formerly owned by the
Rothschild family of Château Lafite, is now part of
the Bacalhâo group. Perfumed and fruity, this leaps
from the glass with fresh, crisp lemon and pear flavors and light minerality. Drink now. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
85
Dona Maria-Júlio Bastos 2013 Dona Maria
(Alentejano). This fragrant wine has perfumed aromas and a light candy-flavored palate. It’s
crisp with apples, tangy with citrus, finishing with
bright acidity and a fragrant aftertaste. Drink now.
Grape Moments. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
85
Herdade Grande 2013 Audaz (Alentejano).
This is a fresh wine with attractive ripe
fruits. Apples, bitter orange and a streak of citrus
are coupled with pineapple acidity. It’s a well-made,
immediately drinkable wine. M Imports, LLC. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $9
85
Monte da Penha 2013 Montefino Branco
(Alentejano). There is plenty of lively acidity in this crisp, light and fruity wine from the Fino
family based in northeast Alentejo near the Spanish border. It is fresh, perfumed, full of hedgerow
fruits, lemon and lively acidity. There is no need to
age this delicious wine, drink now. Gabriella Fine
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
84
Caves Aliança 2013 Alabastro Branco (Alentejano). Soft and smooth, this is a rounded,
apple and pear flavored wine. With a streak of lemon acidity at the end, it has just the right amount
of freshness. Drink now. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $8
PENÍNSULA DE SETÚBAL
92
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2013 Cova da
Ursa Chardonnay (Península de Setúbal).
The chalk soil of the Cova da Ursa vineyard, high up
on the Azeitão mountains, yields this rich, tropicalfruited Chardonnay. It is ripe with apricot and man-
go flavors that are smoothed out by the wood aging.
Toast and fresh acidity are still balancing out, so
this impressive wine needs to age. Drink from 2016.
Grape Expectations (CA). Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
88
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2013 Catarina
(Península de Setúbal). A wine made in
memory of Catherine (Caterina) of Bragança, a Portuguese princess who married Charles II of England
in the 17th century. It is a superripe wine, full of
tropical fruit flavors and only the lightest of acidity. Wood aging gives the wine a plush character and
suggests it could age for another year. Drink from
2016. Grape Expectations (CA). Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
88
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2013 Quinta da
Bacalhôa (Península de Setúbal). There is
a strong sense of herbaceousness in this wine. A
blend of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Alvarinho,
it is fresh and crisp with lemon and pear flavors. A
short wood aging has allowed the wine to round out
and get a toasty feel. Drink from 2015. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
85
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2013 JP Azeitão
Branco (Península de Setúbal). The Moscatel in this blend gives an attractive floral perfumed
character that balances the crisper Fernão Pires. It
is a fruity, light-hearted apéritif-style wine that is
ready to drink. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
84
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2013 Serras de
Azeitão Seleção do Enólogo Branco (Península de Setúbal). A wine that is so soft, its texture
only just brushes the palate. White fruits and lemon
juice give a gentle, balanced character that is light
and quite ready to drink. Grape Expectations (CA).
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
OTHER WHITES
92
Luis Pato 2013 Vinhas Velhas (Beira Atlantico). Pato’s pair of old vine wines, a red and
this white, are beautifully complex. With its rich
melon, tropical fruits, spice and light toastiness,
this wine is concentrated with still-young acidity
and currant fruit flavors. It’s a great wine that needs
to develop before drinking. Wait until 2016. Wine
In-Motion. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
89
Quinta da Romeira 2012 Morgado de Santa
Catherina (Bucelas). This wood-aged wine
is smooth with already a good balance between
fruit and toast. Ripe and full-bodied, it aged for 10
months in new wood. That has smoothed out the
acidity and rounded the corners to give a rich wine
that could age. Drink from 2015. Wine In-Motion.
—R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
89
Quinta da Romeira 2013 Prova Régia Reserva
Arinto (Bucelas). Also known for its sparkling wines, the small region of Bucelas, just north
of Lisbon, specializes in Arinto. This rich wine
brings out the citrus and white fruits of the grape
along with an extra depth of flavor that will allow
it to age. Drink now, but also wait until 2016. Wine
In-Motion. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
88
Luis Pato 2013 Maria Gomes (Beira Atlantico). The local Beira grape, Maria Gomes,
makes a star turn in this apricot and peach flavored
wine. The ripe fruit is cut by fresh, crisp lime juice,
adding crispness. A final tang of orange completes
the picture. Wine In-Motion. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
88
Rui Roboredo Madeira 2012 Beyra Superior
Branco (Beira Interior). As bright as a button, this is a crisp, cool wine, lightly herbaceous and
deliciously fresh. Just touched by six months wood
aging, the wine has an extra layer of richness that
contrasts with the young green and citrus fruits.
Drink now, or, better, keep until 2016. Wine InMotion. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
87
Ribafreixo 2012 Pato Frio Grande Escolha
Antão Vaz (Alentejo). This too-powerful,
wood-aged wine is impressive but has lost fruitiness in the search for richness. Strong spice and
concentrated texture show up front, along with yellow fruits. A toasty character still dominates. The
wine needs to smooth its bumps out, so drink from
2016. Sommelier Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
84
Quinta Vale do Armo 2013 Vila Jardim Siria
(Tejo). A crisp and strongly lemon-flavored
wine, this is light and bright with an herbaceous
hint and a softer aftertaste that has melon and a
rounder texture. Drink now. European Wine Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
SPARKLING WINES
88
Caves Transmontanas 2009 Vértice Millesime Brut (Douro). Made from grapes in
high-elevation vineyards, this is a mature wine with
attractive acidity and a toasty background. It’s dry,
although with a soft, full aftertaste that’s fruity with
apples and crisp lemon zest. Wine In-Motion. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $24
86
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2011 Loridos
Vintage Extra Bruto (Vinho Espumante).
This is an attractive, soft and fruity wine. Described
as Extra Bruto—extra dry—it does in fact have a soft
WINEMAG.COM | 49
BUYINGGUIDE
and gentle aftertaste that comes from creamed apple and ripe pear flavors. It is ready to drink. Grape
Expectations (CA). —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
and fruity, this is a perfumed wine with crisp acidity from red berry fruits. It is not quite dry, with a
soft aftertaste. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
84
84
Aveleda NV Meio Seco Sparkling Rosé (Vinho
Espumante). Floral and fresh aromas give
this light, medium-dry wine a great start. It is crisp
with red apple fruits while ripe strawberries give
the initial sweetness. Drink this bright, open wine
now. Aveleda Imports. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $11
84
Aveleda NV Meio Seco Sparkling White (Vinho Espumante). Lively, light and easy on the
palate, this is a celebratory sparkling wine. Apples
give the fruity element of this medium-dry wine
that has a lively prickle on the tongue. Drink now.
Aveleda Imports. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $11
84
Wines & Winemakers 2013 Azul Portugal
Rosé (Península de Setúbal). This soft,
caramel flavored rosé is produced from the native
Castelão grape in coastal Setúbal south of Lisbon.
With rounded red fruits and light acidity, it is dry
and destined to pair with food. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
82
Wines & Winemakers 2013 Pegos Claros Rosé
(Palmela). Rich and soft, this Castelãobased rosé seems to miss out on freshness and acidity. Instead, it is broad, full in the mouth and heavy.
It could work with food. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2012 Loridos
Rosé Bruto (Vinho Espumante). This is a
soft, creamy wine with attractive red fruits and a
gentle mousse. It is spoiled by some bitterness that
comes into the acidity at the end. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
84
Caves Transmontanas 2010 Vértice Cuvée
Reserva Brut (Douro). There is a curious
petrol aroma to this wine. It follows through to
toast, spice and flavors that only hint at fruit but
that do bring out very fresh acidity. The aftertaste
is the freshest part of the wine. Wine In-Motion.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $19
ROSÉS
86
Herdade do Rocim 2013 Olho de Mocho Rosé
(Alentejano). Soft and ripe, this has strawberry fruit flavors, a soft texture and a warm, rich
feel. There is just enough acidity to balance this really food-friendly rosé. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
86
Quinta de Covela 2013 Covela Rosé (Minho).
Made principally from Touriga Nacional,
this is a rich wine with attractive acidity and strawberry fruitiness. It is ripe, touched with caramel and
finished with wild raspberry flavors. David Bowler
Wine. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
85
PORTUGAL
RED WINES
DOURO
95
Quinta da Romaneira 2011 Reserva (Douro).
From one of the classic, south-facing Douro
quintas, this is a dense, impressive and powerful
wine.An elegant element brings out the sophisticated tannic structure as well as the ripe blackberry
fruits. With time, this will develop into a concentrated and memorable wine. Drink from 2018. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
93
Castello d’Alba 2011 Limited Edition (Douro).
A rugged wine to suit the steep Douro vineyards, this is solid, dark, packed with tannin and
a strong structure. Black plum skins, spice and an
opulent concentration combine to give a wine that
needs time to fulfill its potential. Drink from 2017.
Grape Moments. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
93
Conceito Vinhos 2011 Conceito (Douro). Both
rich and well structured, this shows sumptuous ripe plums that are contrasted with acidity
that brings out a tenser side to the wine. It also
indicates its aging potential. To allow the tannins
and powerful structure time to develop, drink from
2018. Vin de Terra Imports, Inc. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
Herdade do Rocim 2013 Mariana Rosé (Alentejano). This appealing blend of Touriga Nacional and Aragonez gives a fresh, crisp red fruited
wine. Just the right amount of acidity produces a
light, bright aftertaste. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
93
84
92
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2013 JP Azeitão
Rosé (Península de Setúbal). Light, fresh
50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
José Maria da Fonseca 2011 Domini Plus
(Douro). For full review see page 5. Cellar
Selection.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
Quanta Terra 2011 Grande Reserva (Douro).
Gorgeously ripe and rich, this powerful wine
has a dark structure and layer after layer of juicy
black fruits. It’s still young and the mineral side
of the wine is still showing, but its future is looking good with that beautiful fruitiness. Drink from
2018. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
DÃO
94
Quinta de Lemos 2009 Dona Georgina
(Dão). A blend of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz, both originally from the Dão region, this
sophisticated, rich wine is firmly structured. The
granite soils bring out a strong mineral texture that
is balanced by opulent black fruits. This is a powerful wine, dense and still developing. Drink from
2016. MHW, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
94
Quinta de Lemos 2009 Touriga Nacional
(Dão). Originally from the Dão region,
Portugal’s oldest wine area, Touriga Nacional still
produces some of its best wines in its home base.
This powerful wine is a fine example of what Celso
de Lemos set out to do when he set up the 62-acre
estate. This wine has black fruits, dark tannins, a
light perfumed character and considerable potential. Powered by its structure and acidity it is developing slowly and surely. Drink from 2017. MHW,
Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
93
Caves Aliança 2011 Quinta da Garrida Reserva
(Dão). Rich, smooth and dense, this is a
powerful wine from Caves Aliança’s quinta in the
Dão. It brings together the complex texture of a fine
Dão wine with great fruitiness. French and Russian
oak aging have smoothed out the natural tannins of
the region, giving spice and allowing the juicy acidity to shine. Drink from 2017. Tri-Vin Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
93
Pedra Cancela 2011 Reserva (Dão). This wine
is all about its tannic structure. It is powerful, steely with a strong mineral texture to go with
the dense black fruits. Complex and still very young,
the wine has weight and layers of acidity. The open
lagar fermentation brings out extra richness. Drink
from 2018. Wine In-Motion. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
92
Magnum Vinhos 2011 Ribeiro Santo Reserva
(Dão). Dão’s local Alfrocheiro grape gives
the intense color to this wine that also has Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. The combination is
a powerful, rich wine offering solid tannins and
equally full black fruits. The wood aging is still
showing strongly, so this wine needs to age. Drink
from 2018. Grape Moments. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
ALENTEJANO
93
Herdade Grande 2010 Reserva (Alentejano).
This Reserva comes from the oldest vineyard on the Herdade Grande estate. With wood
aging to smooth out the dense tannins, it’s a solid,
very structured wine that has power. It also has a
stylish way about it, with neither the rich fruit nor
the structure in excess. Age the wine and drink from
2016. M Imports, LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $49
93
Herdade Paço do Conde 2011 Winemaker’s
Selection (Alentejano). Very dark and concentrated, this is a powerfully rich wine. Full of
juicy black fruits that give a brooding quality, it’s
still waiting to spring to life. A selection of the best
barrels, this opulent and long-lived release will be
ready to drink from 2018. Marsalle/Stoler Company. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $89
91
Herdade Grande 2011 Gerações Colheita Seleccionada (Alentejano). This wood-aged wine
has juicy black fruits that are given shape by the
firm tannins and dense, concentrated structure. Initially austere and packed with acidity, it needs time
to develop. Drink this powerful wine from 2016. M
Imports, LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $34
OTHER REDS
94
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2009 Palácio de
Bacalhôa (Península de Setúbal). The top
red from the Bacalhôa vineyard, this is monumentally rich and ripe with the smoothest texture, hints
of maturity as well as red fruits and rounding woodaging flavors. It’s opulent and still merits some aging. Drink ideally from 2017. Grape Expectations
(CA). Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $41
for holding, so drink from 2017. Grape Expectations
(CA). Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $31
93
Luis Pato 2010 Vinhas Velhas (Beiras). With
an average age of 45 years, these old Baga
vines have produced a a dark, brooding and concentrated wine. It is dense, solid with black plum skins
and deep tannins. It is also expressive of the limestone soils of the region, steely and mineral. Give
this several more years. Drink from 2018. Wine InMotion. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $24
93
Quinta do Monte d’Oiro 2009 Reserva (Lisboa). Dense and powerful, this has concentrated black plum and berry flavors, rich tannins
and a firm structure. Good juiciness brings out both
the dark texture and a mineral character. Coming
from the Lisbon region, it offers a hint of ocean saltiness at the end. Drink from 2017. Winebow. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $65
93
Rui Roboredo Madeira 2012 Beyra Superior
(Beira Interior). Structured and still very
young, this richly exuberant wine is bursting to get
beyond its tannins. The black fruits and dark texture are piled high and laced with intense acidity.
It has the mineral character that seems often to appear in wines from the remote, mountainous Beira
Interior, giving the potential for considerable aging.
Drink from 2018. Wine In-Motion. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
92
Caves Aliança 2011 Quinta da Terrugem
(Alentejo). This single-estate wine is rich
and opulent. Dark tannins and generous black fruits
enhance this juicy wood-aged wine. A touch of mint
gives a highlight to the polished feel. It needs aging,
so drink from 2017. Tri-Vin Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $26
94
Luis Pato 2010 Vinha Barrosa (Beiras). Beautifully perfumed, this is full of ripe tannins
and generous fruitiness. From a single vineyard
with old vines, the wine is structured, dense and so
concentrated. It shows how Baga can develop when
handled by a master, with its black plum fruits and
great future. Drink now, but the wine will continue
to develop at least until 2017. Wine In-Motion. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $42
93
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2011 Quinta da
Bacalhôa (Península de Setúbal). The vineyard around the renaissance palace of Bacalhôa was
first planted with Cabernet Sauvignon in the mid20th century. The estate continue to produce an exemplary, memorable wine. This latest release is full
of tense tannins, black currant fruit and acidity and
a smooth texture from the wood aging. It is a wine
PORTUGAL
FORTIFIED WINES
VINTAGE PORT
96
W. & J. Graham’s 1969 Single Harvest Tawny
Port. This is a limited-production colheita
Port made from six selected barrels. It has a wonderful golden character, showing a series of woody
flavors from the long barrel aging, while keeping a
surprising amount of fruit. The spirit and the alcohol are almost irrelevant in this gorgeous wine that
is absolutely ready to drink. Premium Port Wines,
Inc. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $350
95
across the Douro from Quinta do Vesúvio. It is supremely elegant, with sophisticated black and red
fruits that are sustained by a layer of fine, dusty
tannins. On the dry side for a Vintage, it has acidity,
structure and obviously great potential for aging.
Drink from 2025. Premium Port Wines, Inc. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $62
95
Quinta do Noval 2012 Vintage Port. The
dark, almost black color and the wonderful
violet aromas set the scene for this complex, dense
and textured wine. It has a touch of spice, along
with the rich plum and dark berry fruits. While it
is rich, it is also a dry style of Vintage, bringing out
structure as much as opulence. Drink from 2030.
Vintus LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 19.5%
Price: $100
94
Kopke 1964 Colheita Port. Kopke’s amazing
stock of aged tawnies continues to surprise
by its reserves. Now 50 years old, this smooth,
mellifluous wine is opulent and delicious. It has
the true aged tawny, old gold character, with dried
fruits that have sublimated into a wine that is almost dry. It is an astonishing wine that is ready to
drink now. Wineworth LLC. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $180
94
Quinta do Vesuvio 2012 Vintage Port. The
power of this wine is palpable. Great
swathes of rich berry fruits roll around the palate
with a not-too-sweet juicy acidity. It is, of course,
young, powered by tannins, sweet plum juice and
an intensely ripe structure. It needs many years, so
don’t drink before 2030. Premium Port Wines, Inc.
—R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $63
92
Poças 1997 Colheita Port. This wood-aged
wine shows as much fruit as wood. It’s complex and dense, with wonderful acidity and sweet
raisin fruits that give richness. Acidity gives the
wine a lift, but it’s the aromas and silky texture that
have the last word. HGC Imports. Editors’ Choice.
—R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $45
92
Poças 1992 Colheita Port. It may be 22 years
old, but this wine is still so young. The long
wood aging has brought out a toasty, smoothly textured character while not diminishing the bright
acidity and hints of citrus and crispness. It’s a beautiful wine that has been bottled at its peak, ready to
drink. HGC Imports. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $65
91
Churchill’s 2011 Quinta da Gricha Vintage Port.
From a very fine Port vintage, this is ripe and
fruity, and also packs a dark punch of tannins. It is
on the dry side of Port, structured and compact and
still obviously very young. Rich black fruits and the
dense tannins promise the right sort of aging, so
Dow’s 2012 Quinta Senhora da Ribeira Vintage Port. This Port comes from a vineyard
WINEMAG.COM | 51
BUYINGGUIDE
drink from 2022 Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.
—R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $90
91
Ramos-Pinto 2009 RPLBV Late Bottled Vintage Port. Beautifully perfumed, this has ripe
blackberry flavors and a relatively dry character.
The spirit is now well balanced, giving a backbone
to the violet aromas and spicy character of this stillyoung LBV. It is good to drink now for its fruit, but
it will improve and show more complex flavors after 2017–2018. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA.
—R.V.
abv: 19.5%
Price: $27
90
Poças 2009 Late Bottled Vintage Port. This
is a style of Late Bottled Vintage that should
be aged. It has great red and black fruits at this stage
but will develop a more structured, dense and firm
character as it matures. Give this well-made, juicy
wine with its sweet black fruits at least until 2017.
HGC Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $25
90
Quinta da Romaneira 2009 Late Bottled
Vintage Port. The wine was fermented in
open stone lagars, still the preferred method at
many Douro quintas. That gives the color and the
soft extraction in this ripe, sweet Port. It has enough
tannins to balance the dried raisin and superripe
plum flavors. While it has been bottled to drink
now, the wine will benefit from aging. Drink from
2016. —R.V.
abv: 19.5%
Price: $NA
89
Quinta de la Rosa 2010 Late Bottled Vintage
Port. Bottled at four years old, this wine
has retained all its fruitiness. Bright plum flavors
go with the dusty tannins and sweetness to create a
generous wine with plenty of room for fruit acidity.
Drink now, but the wine could age a couple of years.
Winesellers Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $29/500 ml
87
Cálem 2009 Late Bottled Vintage Port.
Bright, ripe red plums predominate in this
wine that tastes very young, intensely fruity and
veering towards dryness. Rich and juicy, it is still
developing its mature velvet character. It should
lose some its primary fruits and become more balanced, so wait until 2016. Wine In-Motion. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $18
87
Quinta Seara d’Ordens 2009 Late Bottled
Vintage Port. Dark in color and perfumed,
this is a smooth and softly ripe wine packed with
red fruits and rounded tannins. It is ready to drink
with its rich fruitiness. Holiday Beverage. —R.V.
abv: 19.5%
Price: $80
NONVINTAGE TAWNY PORT
92
Sogrape NV Offley 30 Years Tawny Port. Offley, established in 1737, is a famous old Port
52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
house. This 30-year-old tawny, aged in the cellars at
Vila Nova de Gaia at the mouth of the Douro river,
has a strong sense of wood aging that gives acidity and a golden glow to the palate. Like any aged
tawny, it can be drunk now. Evaton, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $108
91
Barão de Vilar NV Feuerheerd’s 10-Year-Old
Tawny Port. A dry wine, this offers intense
acidity, bitter chocolate flavors and dried raisins.
Full of complex aromas and flavors, it’s full in the
mouth, finishing dry with an intense aftertaste. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
91
Burmester NV 10-Year-Old Tawny Port. This
dry, mature wine tastes older than a 10-YearOld, with complex wood aging, spirit and acidity
that have taken over from the fruitiness. It is serious and structured. Wine In-Motion. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $26
91
Ferreira NV Quinta do Porto 10-Year-Old Tawny Port. This rich wine is balanced and ripe,
with spice, sweet sultana and raisin fruitiness and a
light shot of acidity. The aftertaste brings out fresh
red fruits that are cut by the spirit and acidity to
leave a full feeling in the mouth. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $32
91
Kopke NV 20-Years-Old Tawny Port. Kopke
has an impressive quantity of old tawnies,
some of which will have ended up in this wine. It
certainly seems older than its 20 years with strong
wood flavors, smoky toast and beautiful mature
acidity. It is very ready to drink, a fine mature tawny. Wineworth LLC. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $56
91
Messias NV 10-Years-Old Tawny Port. Smoky
aromas reveal the essence of this wood-aged
wine. The wood is well integrated, balanced with
the fruitiness that is characteristic of a 10-Year-Old
tawny. Ripe sultanas and great acidity at the end
bring this wine to a balanced, delicious close. Direct
Wine Imports. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
91
Poças NV 10-Years-Old Tawny Port. Tasting
mature for a 10-Year-Old tawny, this ripe
wine has lost fruit but gained in spirit, wood and
acidity. Balanced just right, it finishes dry and fragrant. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $25
91
W. & J. Graham’s NV 10-Year-Old Tawny Port.
The wine is rich, ripe and fruity with good
acidity as well as a bite of spirit and old-wood aging. It is well balanced, keeping the freshness of a
10-Year-Old while also showing good signs of its
wood aging. Just what a 10-Year-Old should be. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $36
90
Barão de Vilar NV Maynard 10-Year-Old Tawny Port. Dark-colored, this rich, full-bodied
wine is flavored with dry molasses as well as raisins.
Cut with acidity, it has a mature feel that is both
ripe and, at the end, dry, with a fragrant aftertaste.
Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
90
Barros NV 20-Years-Old Tawny Port. The
style may be sweet and rich, but this mature tawny also delivers all the right old gold and
wood-aged flavors. It does taste a young 20 years,
having retained fruitiness and a round structure, a
fine moment between youth and age. Wine In-Motion. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $52
90
Dalva NV 10-Years-Old Tawny Port. Firm and
dry, this wine shows more than its 10 years
of aging. It has acidity as much as fruit, along with
strong wood-aged flavors that push the spirit forward. At the end, it is all about the acidity and old
wood flavors. Jack Poust & Co., Inc. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
90
Delaforce NV His Eminence’s Choice
10-Years-Old Tawny Port. With a great balance between fruit and acidity, this is just what a
10-Year-Old tawny should be. Ripe fruits are cut by
acidity and given a shot of wood aging. Spice and
old gold flavors lead to a delicious fresh aftertaste.
Signature Imports. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $30
90
Poças NV 20-Years-Old Tawny Port. The
wood and toasty character of this mature
Port is just right. It has a fine balance between its
old gold flavors and the spirit, giving an intense,
concentrated character. Hints of fruitiness are still,
just there. The aftertaste, rich and dry, lingers on
and on. HGC Imports. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
90
Quinta do Infantado NV 10-Years-Old Tawny
Port. This well-balanced wine is full of both
acidity and fruitiness, the two characters a 10-YearOld tawny should have. It is dry, showing the wood
aging subtly with an aftertaste that brings back the
excellent balance. Louis/Dressner Selections. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
90
Quinta do Mourão NV 10-Years-Old Tawny
Unreported Port. An old gold-colored wine,
this presents a dry, more aged view of 10-Year-Old
tawny than usual. The result is a strong sense of
spirit without losing the old wood flavors and the
reminder of fruitiness. It’s balanced and delicious.
The sons of founder Mário Braga now run the quinta
and farms nearby producing both Port and dry red
wines. This is a private blend for Schlossadler Imports in California. Schlossadler Inc. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA/375 ml
90
Quinta do Noval NV 10-Years-Old Tawny
Port. This dry, balanced aged tawny is both
fruity and showing good aging characters. Red fruits
are cut with acidity and shaped by the old wood and
spice flavors. It has a delicious, ripe aftertaste. Vintus LLC. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $30
this is ripe and has good acidity. Signs of wood aging are well mannered, not too obtrusive. Fresh and
smoothly textured, it is delicious. Wine In-Motion.
—R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $26
90
88
Taylor Fladgate NV 10-Year-Old Tawny Port.
This ivery complete aged tawny has all the
right nuts and fruit characters that show a Port that
still looks back to its fruity origins. The style is ripe,
full and sweet, a mellow wine that only hints at the
spirit behind it. Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $33
89
Cockburn’s NV 10-Year-Old Tawny Port. Soft
and ripe, this toffee-flavored, gentle wine is
fruity, rich and smooth. Just the right bite of acidity and spirit gives a lift as well as freshness. It is
very easy and full-bodied. Premium Port Wines, Inc.
—R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $23
89
Croft NV 10-Years-Old Aged Tawny Port. On
the dry side, this has plenty of fruit for an
aged tawny, although it does actually taste older
than its 10-years indication. That gives it a good
depth of flavor as well as wood acidity that shines
through at the end. Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $31
89
Dow’s NV 10-Years-Old Tawny Port. Balanced
and dry, this is fruity with just the right
amount of wood-aging flavors. It has red fruits, a
shot of spirit that still keeps in balance, and tight,
dry acidity at the end. Premium Port Wines, Inc.
—R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $35
89
Quinta de la Rosa NV 10-Year-Old Tawny
Port. Tight acidity and a smoky, burnt character give this complex wine considerable intensity.
It has a a dry character, full of flavors from its wood
aging with an almost medicinal intensity. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $36/500 ml
89
Smith Woodhouse NV 10-Year-Old Tawny
Port. A mature wine, this is both fruity and
nicely wood-aged. It has ripe dried fruits, apricot as
well as raisins, giving freshness and old gold acidity.
The fine balance works well. Premium Port Wines,
Inc. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $34
88
Andresen NV 10-Year-Old Tawny Port. This is
fragrant, fresh and full of the original fruitiness of the wine. The wood aging, mainly in small
barrels, has smoothed the wine out while leaving
a hint of toastiness. At the end, the acidity is both
delicious and refreshing. Aidil Wines/Old World
Import. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
88
Barros NV 10-Year-Old Tawny Port. On the
light, fresh and fruity side of aged tawnies,
Burmester NV 20-Years-Old Tawny Port. This
is full of bitter marmalade and maple syrup
flavors while also showing considerable wood-aging
flavors. It is structured, still showing some hints of
fruit while also bringing out a strongly mature character. Wineworth LLC. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $55
88
Kopke NV 10-Year-Old Tawny Port. Nutty
aromas are followed by a soft and sweet
style of wine. It has just enough acidity and wood
aging to keep it vibrant. Sweet fruits and molasses
flavors give a smooth, attractive and fresh wine.
Wine In-Motion. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $27
88
Quevedo NV 10-Years-Old Tawny Port. Deep,
almost black in color, it has a few flecks of
gold to show the wood aging. Aged in big barrels, it
has kept considerable fruitiness and fragrant acidity. It’s sweet at the end. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $25
88
Quinta do Vallado NV 10-Year-Old Tawny
Port. The wine is at the balancing point
between fruit and wood-aging flavors. Bright fruitiness is underpinned by old wood and old gold flavors. It’s an open, generous Port with the fortifying spirit in evidence while still leaving fruitiness.
Quintessential Wines. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $40/500 ml
88
Ramos-Pinto NV RP 10 Quinta da Ervamoira
10-Years-Old Tawny Port. This has quite a
bite with acidity and a strong cut of spirit. Flavors
of dried raisins and sultana put it on the dry side
of aged tawny. At the end, spice and the wood aging dominate this austere wine. Maisons Marques &
Domaines USA. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $40
88
Real Companhia Velha NV Quinta das Carvalhas 10-Year-Old Tawny Port. While the wine
is showing the spirit strongly, that doesn’t detract
from the good acidity and dried-fruit flavors. It has
kept much of its freshness, still hinting at red fruits,
while the wood aging provides great support. The
aftertaste, with its aromatic acidity, is just right.
Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $30
87
Barão de Vilar NV 10-Years-Old Tawny Port.
Fresh, fruity and light, this bright wine
misses out on any flavor depth. What it does have
is attractive acidity and berry fruits. It’s the acidity that shows most strongly at the end. Regal Wine
Imports Inc. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
87
Butler Nephew & Co NV 10-Years-Old Tawny
Port. Fruity, sweet and soft, this is immediately attractive. It shows red fruits as well as a light
toffee character with the wood aging flavors in the
background. For a wine in bottle for three years, it
has excellent freshness at the end. Williams Corner
Wine. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
87
Butler Nephew & Co NV Finest Reserve Port.
This Reserve tawny has a color hinting at
red gold and wood-aging flavor. It presents a ripe
character, full of sultanas and fig flavors, rich and
sweet. The spirit does show and needs to integrate
more to make this truly satisfying. Williams Corner
Wine. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $25
87
Cálem NV 10-Year-Old Tawny Port. With good
acidity and wood aging, the wine is beginning to show maturity. The fruits are transforming
into more complex wood and spirit flavors, along
with dried sultanas and a dry aftertaste. Wine InMotion. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $25
87
Quarles Harris NV 10-Year-Old Tawny Port.
Rich, sweet and full in the mouth, this is
immediately attractive. It has ripe red berry and
sultana fruitiness, plus a texture that is soft and
rounded. Only the bite of spirit and acidity provides
a reminder that this generous wine also has some
aging. Vineyard Brands. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $17
87
Sandeman NV 10-Year-Old Tawny Port. This
wine is sweet, rich and soft. While it misses
out on acidity, it has rounded, fresh fruitiness and
a light shot of spirit. For those who like a sweeter
aged tawny, this is just right, open and generous.
Pernod Ricard. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $45
87
Vista Alegre NV 10-Years-Old Tawny Port.
Smooth, soft and old gold colored, this Port
balances between acidity and fruitiness. It is sweet,
only gradually showing signs of wood aging, and is
ripe and warm in the mouth. The House Of Burgundy. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
87
Warre’s NV Otima 10-Year-Old Tawny Port. A
sweet style of aged tawny, it has rich caramel
flavors that combine with sultanas and almonds to
give a ripe and generous wine. It has kept plenty of
fresh fruitiness while moving towards wood aging.
Vineyard Brands. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $27/500 ml
86
Borges NV Quinta da Soalheira 10-Year-Old
Tawny Port. Acidity cuts through strongly,
leaving a wave of freshness. The fruit is less obvious, none the less still delicious and well flavored.
WINEMAG.COM | 53
BUYINGGUIDE
It’s a balanced wine, the acidity keeping it dry. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $35
acidity and strong wood-aging flavors. It leaves a
dry aftertaste. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
86
85
Gran Cruz NV 10-Year-Old Tawny Port. Balanced and fruity, this has kept its fresh,
juicy fruitiness while also showing drier wood-aging flavors. It is rounded, with dark toffee and chocolate flavors giving intensity. At the end, the acidity
dominates. Prestige Wine Group. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
86
Kopke NV Reserve Tawny Port. There is a delicious amount of wood aging to this wine,
partnering its natural fruitiness with a smoky,
toasty character that goes so well with the spirit.
It is rich with sweetness as well as acidity, leaving a
bitter marmalade aftertaste. Wineworth LLC. —R.V.
abv: 19.5%
Price: $12
86
Niepoort NV 10-Year-Old Tawny Port. Soft
and light, this is attractively fruity although
it lacks great depth of flavor. It is balanced, ripe and
sweet, with touches of the wood aging and acidity
coming through more strongly at the end. Martine’s
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $55
86
Offley NV Barão de Forrester 10-Year-Old
Tawny Port. The wine has a dark, stillyoung color. Freshness brings out bright red and
dried fruits as well as acidity. It’s attractive, soft
and fruity, a young-tasting 10-Years-Old. Evaton,
Inc. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $24
86
Quinta da Romaneira NV 10-Year-Old Tawny
Port. Strong sweet raisin flavors give fruitiness. It is bright, with a streak of acidity that brings
out red fruits as well as soft tannins. The aftertaste
has a burnt quality, with intense acidity right at the
end. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
86
São Pedro das Aguias NV 10-Year-Old Tawny
Port. This wine is as rich as its dark color
suggests. It has a sense of power, while it has also
kept its fruitiness. There is good acidity with wood
aging flavors, the spirit only showing at the end.
Vranken Pommery America. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
85
Dalva NV Presidential 10-Years-Old Tawny
Port. This ripe and sweet wine has only
light acidity. That gives it a soft, light character, emphasizing fruitiness rather than the wood aging of
an old tawny. The aftertaste is round and soft. Jack
Poust & Co., Inc. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
85
Herdade do Esporão NV 10-Years-Old Tawny
Port. Light in color from the wood aging,
this is also a light wine. Fruit is secondary to the
54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
Quinta Seara d’Ordens NV 10-Year-Old Tawny
Port. It takes a while for this wine to make
its presence felt. It is dry, reticent in its favors, hinting at fruitiness. A smoother, caramel and vanilla
texture also shows attractive acidity. Even at the
end, it remains a curiously mute wine. Holiday Beverage. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $65
85
Rozes NV 10-Year-Old Tawny Port. This is
fruity, with a strong showing from the spirit. The wine is ripe with touches of wood aging and
red fruit flavors. However, it does lack acidity. Vranken Pommery America. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
84
Quinta do Portal NV 10-Years-Old Tawny
Port. The wine shows considerable wood
aging flavors as well as the sweet toffee and fruit
flavors. The wood spice is too dominant and throws
the rest of the wine out of balance. M Imports, LLC.
—R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $36
84
Wine & Soul NV 10-Year-Old Tawny Port. The
meaty, yeasty character here doesn’t chime
well with the ripe, soft fruit. It is sweet with a full,
toffee flavor and only light acidity. Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $12
83
Wines & Winemakers NV Azul Portugal
10-Year-Old Tawny Port. A beetroot character to this wine is off-putting. It masks the fruit
and acidity that otherwise would show well. Best
Brands Incorporated. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $22A
NONVINTAGE ROSÉ PORT
88
Kopke NV Rosé Port. This well-balanced
ripe wine shows the hand of Pedro Sâ, wine
and vineyard director for all Sogevinus Ports. Sweet
with a hint of yeastiness and good acidity, its ripe
strawberry flavors are strong and fresh. This is a
pink Port wine that is ripe and fruity, finishing with
both sweetness and freshness. Drink now but with
this blend, Kopke doesn’t rule out sip-store-sip
over a couple months. Wine In-Motion. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $15/500 ml
88
Messias NV Rosé Port. This has intense pink
color with attractive acidity, plenty of sweet
strawberry flavors and the merest hint of spirit.
Light and bright, it’s attractive, clean and fruity.
Pink and rosé Ports—Ruby blends with limited exposure to the grape skins—are best served chilled
and in cocktails. Direct Wine Imports. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
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Real Companhia Velha NV Rosé Port. Fruity
aromas set the scene for an appealing, balanced wine with wild strawberry flavors and light,
bright acidity. This addition to the pink Port category is sweet while fresh and well balanced. Real Companhia Velho has the oldest wine cellars in the Port
trade. Drink young, chilled or in cocktails. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
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Croft NV Croft Pink Port. Bright pink in color,
this is a fruity as much as rich wine. It has
freshness, cherry flavors with acidity and an intensely candied, honey-sweet finish. It’s complete
enough to drink by itself. Kobrand. —R.V.
abv: 19.5%
Price: $20
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Offley NV Rosé Port. Light in color, the wine
from hand-picked Touriga Franca, Touriga
Nacional and Tinta Barroca grapes has strawberry flavors, light acidity and a fresh finish. It is, of
course, sweet, hinting at the spirit added to halt fermentation. It’s an attractive wine from the Sogrape
family group, ready for chilling. Drink now. Evaton,
Inc. —R.V.
abv: 19%
Price: $18
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Poças NV Poças Pink Port. The pink hue is
a little flat. That also applies to the palate,
with the fruit showing some maturity and hinting at
wood aging. It’s a rounded style, full in the mouth,
with ripe caramel flavors at the end. Drink now. TriVin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $15
85
Rozes NV Terras do Grifo Pink Port. Aging has
brought out a toffee character as well as the
red fruits. It is ripe, smoothly textured and recognizably a Port with the hints of spirit at the end.
Vranken Pommery America. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
84
Dalva NV Rosé Port. Crisp raspberry flavors along with candied sweetness give this
fruity Port a soft and gentle character. It is certainly
sweet, even sugary, while retaining good balance.
Pink and rosé Port is usually served chilled and in
cocktails. Founded in 1862 and historically known
as C. da Silva, this producer is now Dalva. Jack Poust & Co., Inc. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
84
Gran Cruz NV Pink Port. Sweet and fruity,
this rich wine hangs heavily. It has candied
flavors without enough acidity to balance. The aftertaste is rich and full, easily in search for a cocktail. Drink now. Prestige Wine Group. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
83
Quevedo NV Pink Port. Yeasty aromas are a
surprise, the wine not showing freshness.
The spirit is unbalanced with the red fruits, reflecting a wine that is split in its personality. P.R. Grisley
Company. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $18
OTHER NONVINTAGE PORT
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W. & J. Graham’s NV Six Grapes Special Old
Vine Edition Port. This special edition has
been made to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the
familiar Graham’s Six Grapes reserve Ruby. Selected
from old vines in the Graham’s vineyards, it is dense
and impressively ripe. Concentrated fruit dominates, cut with acidity as well as a dark texture.
Rounded and rich, it’s made to drink now. The label
with symbols of six grapes was taken from original
ledger entries—the Graham code for the highest of
six possible classifications for wine destined to be
vintage Port. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 19.5%
Price: $42
89
Butler Nephew & Co NV 10 Years Old White
Port. From a Port shipper started in 1829
and that almost disappeared, this is a light old gold
in color, a smooth and sweet aged white Port. It has
strong connections with its wood aging, with spice
and smokiness combining with dried apricots and
dates. Drink now. Williams Corner Wine. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $30
OTHER FORTIFIED WINES
96
Blandy’s 1998 Colheita Single Harvest Sercial (Madeira). This bone-dry, wood-aged
Madeira is intense. Acidity vies with the old wood
and spice to give a wine that is unique. The long
wood aging has not reduced the vibrancy of the
wine, leaving a lingering and impressive aftertaste.
Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $50/500 ml
sulting acidity.it offers a delicious orange-peel aftertaste. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V.
abv: 19%
Price: $25
finish is linear and shows good acidity and length.
Vinaio Imports. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
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Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2011 Colheita
(Moscatel de Setúbal). Aged in barrels in
the cool cellars in Azeitão, this wine combines great
freshness with spice, toast and acidity that come
together in a sweet, honeyed aftertaste. It won’t improve in bottle, so drink now. Grape Expectations
(CA). Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 17.5%
Price: $9
Adega de Favaios NV 10-Years-Old (Moscatel do Douro). This aged Moscatel is showing a deep gold color from its time in wood. It is
as smooth and rich as velvet, with wood, syrup,
honey and marmalade. Ripe and opulent, it’s delicious both before and after a meal. Aidil Wines/Old
World Import. —R.V.
abv: 17%
Price: $NA
Adega de Favaios NV (Moscatel do Douro).
This amber-colored wine is rich in perfumes and dried fruits, apricots and raisins. A taste
of honey along with a zest of lemon adds freshness
to all this sweetness. Drink immediately—it’s a good
base for cocktails as well. Aidil Wines/Old World
Import. —R.V.
abv: 17%
Price: $NA
SPAIN
WHITE WINES
RÍAS BAIXAS
Maior de Mendoza 2013 Sobre Lías Albariño
(Rías Baixas). This fresh wine opens with
a pleasant blend of melon, citrus, white-flower and
mineral aromas. The palate is similar to the bouquet: citrusy and minerally. Flavors of tangerine,
orange and nectarine are tangy and bright, while
the finish is citrusy and scouring. M Imports, LLC.
—M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
Mar de Frades 2013 Val do Salnés Albariño
(Rías Baixas). Stony aromas of peach and
light citrus fruits come with a dusty note. This feels
plump, melony and citric, with a nice but standard
mix of orange, lime and nectarine flavors. A fresh,
zesty finish is textbook and holds steady. Deutsch
Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
Alvinte 2013 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Flowery aromas of stone fruits, papaya and melon are good and fresh. This is round and melony,
with moderate acidity. Chunky flavors of melon and
papaya finish slightly pithy, with white-fruit notes
taking a back seat to minerality. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
88
Fulget 2013 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Dusty
aromas of peach and nectarine are subtle
and mellow. This is juicy yet plump, with mango,
lime, nectarine and stony flavors. A pithy finish is
quick on the fade. M Imports, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
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Blandy’s 1998 Colheita Single Harvest
Verdelho (Madeira). Made from one of the
noble grapes of Madeira and aged in wood, this
medium-dry wine is rich, concentrated and dense,
with just hints of fruit and its original perfumed
character. A wonderful tang shows at the end as
freshness kicks in. Like any old wood-aged wine, it
is ready to drink. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $50
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2001 Colheita
(Moscatel de Setúbal). Extended wood aging has deepened the gold color of this wine and
brought out the old wood, old gold flavors. It is
opulent, with plenty of acidity as well as spice and
perfume. It is not the sort of wine to age in bottle, so
drink now with dried fruits or blue cheeses. Grape
Expectations (CA). —R.V.
abv: 18%
Price: $21
Bacalhôa Wines of Portugal 2002 Colheita
(Moscatel de Setúbal). A perfumed Moscatel,
it features spice, honeyed fruitiness and a strong
spirit character. When it was bottled, it had just
begun to exhibit the old-wood aging flavors and re-
Bodegas Aquitania 2013 Albariño (Rías Baixas). This blends modesty with clarity, and
the end result is excellent. Crisp and minerally at
all check points, the palate is juicy and citric, but
with good body. Citrus, mango, melon and greenfruit flavors drive the palate into a cleansing, finely
cut finish. Regal Wine Imports Inc. Editors’ Choice.
—M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $28
Pazo Pondal 2013 Albariño (Rías Baixas).
Alluring, inviting aromas of white flowers,
melon and peach are pure as stream water. This
feels round and juicy, with flavors of green herbs,
lettuce, lime and orange. Tangerine notes carry the
finish, which is linear and racy in feel before turning
slightly pithy in flavor. Vinaio Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
Condes de Albarei 2013 Albariño (Rías Baixas). For full review see page 11.
abv: 12%
Price: $16
89
Leira 2013 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Apricot,
melon, buttercup and white-flower aromas
are pure Albariño. This is fresh on the tongue, with
peach, melon, mango and other tropical flavors. The
Terras Gauda 2013 Abadía de San Campio
Albariño (Rías Baixas). Aromas of tangerine
and white grapefruit are fresh yet not that expressive. In the mouth, this is juicy but thin on the backside. Flavors of orange, tangerine and lime are nice
but standard, while the finish is pure and cutting.
Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
Bodegas Aquitania 2013 Bernon Albariño
(Rías Baixas). White-flower and citrus
aromas are mild. In the mouth, this is cutting and
acidic. Flavors of lemon and pineapple are tart and
come in short blasts, while the finish is cleansing
and crisp, with a strong sense of minerality. Regal
Wine Imports Inc. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $18
BIERZO
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Abad Dom Bueno 2013 Godello (Bierzo).
This comes across a bit dilute on the nose,
with aromas of green melon and underripe banana.
The palate shows good weight, balance and a lightly
oily texture. Minerally flavors of nectarine and
WINEMAG.COM | 55
BUYINGGUIDE
peach finish solid, with lasting acidity providing
support. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
crisp, fresh and clean but with little to no evolution
off the palate. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
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Prada A Tope 2013 Palacio de Canedo
Ecológico Godello (Bierzo). Aromas of lemon
peel, acacia, pear and minerals amount to a light but
fresh nose. Citric acidity drives this light-bodied
Godello toward melon, nectarine and green-apple
flavors. A pithy tasting, somewhat flowery finish is
modest, fresh and pleasant. Regal Wine Imports Inc.
—M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
87
Gotín del Risc 2013 Godello (Bierzo). Soft,
easy aromas of vanilla cookie, dusty apple
and peach are good. This Godello offers a zesty, lemony palate and flavors of citrus, peach and mango. A
stony, crisp finish stays fresh while showing a note
of bitter lettuce. Well-Oiled Wine Company. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
12 Linajes 2013 Verdejo (Rueda). Punchy
cactus and feline notes are evident. This is
juicy, citric and racy in the mouth, with nectarine,
lime and tangerine flavors that are lasting and almondy in flavor. As a whole, this gets it largely right.
USA Wine West. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
88
Esperanza 2013 Estate Grown & Bottled
Verdejo (Rueda). This fresh Verdejo delivers a stony mix of tropical fruit, grapefruit and minerally aromas. The palate is shear and tangy, with
flavors of tart green apple and lime that finish a
touch bitter and nutty. This is everyday Rueda done
right; drink immediately. Axial Wines USA. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
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Godelia 2012 Selección Godello (Bierzo).
Oaky, stalky aromas are low on purity and
high on burnt, wheaty notes. The mouthfeel is full
and oaky but manages to hold onto some elegance.
Flavors of buttery oak, bitter melon and citrus fruits
finish stalky and woody, with lasting acidity. Europvin USA. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $29
Gancedo 2013 Capricho Val de Pazariñas
Godello (Bierzo). Sweaty, pinched aromas of
feline essence and nettle are unusual for Godello.
This is fizzy, with flavors of candied green fruits that
finish mealy. Quality Wines of Spain. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
RUEDA
90
Anier 2013 Vendimia Seleccionada Verdejo
(Rueda). Clean, green and not at all mean is
how to best describe the aromas on this pure Verdejo. The mouthfeel is citric and crystalline. Flavors
of citrus fruits, particularly lemon and lime, show
a hint of matchstick sulfur, while the finish is the
slightest bit nutty in flavor. Drink immediately. USA
Wine West. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
89
Bodegas Garci Grande 2013 Señorio de Garci
Grande Verdejo (Rueda). Grapefruit, passion fruit, cactus pad and stony aromas make for a
textbook Verdejo bouquet. The palate on this fresh,
crisp white is compact and clean. Flavors of nectarine and lime finish a touch salty yet refreshing. USA
Wine West. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
89
Palacio de Bornos 2013 Verdejo (Rueda).
Nettle, jalapeño, lettuce leaf and citrus aromas feed into a juicy palate with plenty of acidic
cut. Arugula, bell pepper and lime flavors finish
56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
Condesa Eylo 2013 Verdejo (Rueda). Whitefruit and melon aromas are widespread and
mellow. This is chalky feeling, with citric acidity in
charge. Flavors of apple, nectarine and lime finish
clean and typical of the variety and region. Henriot
Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
Egeo 2013 Verdejo (Rueda). Green apple, almond skin and dusty citrus aromas give way
to a fresh, plump, typical Rueda palate with melon
and lime flavors. Overall, this pure, value-priced
white shows no major hitches. Grapes of Spain. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
87
Oro de Castilla 2013 Verdejo (Rueda). Touches of warm radiator dust and minerality accent citrus aromas. In the mouth, this is juicy and
stony, with flavors of pithy green citrus and peach
pit. The finish is solid and just crisp enough. Ole
Imports. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
86
Pata Negra 2013 Verdejo (Rueda). For full
review see page 12.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
85
Viña Vilano 2013 Verdejo (Rueda). Peach
and lemon curd aromas are good but basic.
A plump, melony palate displays freshness and flavors of honeydew, papaya and lime. A soft but not
flabby palate is just bright enough. Chateau Armand. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
RIOJA
89
Marqués de Murrieta 2009 Capellanía Viura
(Rioja). Gold in color, this high-end Viura
is cheesy, cidery and dense on the nose. Plump and
resiny in feel, it offers woody flavors of baked white
fruits. Hailing from a warm vintage, this goes back
and forth between ripe, mealy and oaky and tense
and nervy. If drinking now, expect more oak than
fruit. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
88
Valserrano 2013 Blanco Fermentado En Barrica (Rioja). Melon, peach and vanilla aromas don’t display much oak while coming across
clean and ripe. This feels juicy, with orange, tangerine and nectarine flavors. The finish is spunky and
acidic but not overly deep or complex. This is 95%
Viura and 5% Malvasia. Saranty Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
87
Baigorri 2012 Cask Fermented (Rioja). Popcorn, toast and apple aromas are woody and
spicy. This feels racy and acidic, with oaky overtones. Briny flavors of spiced melon and apple are
woody and finish with barrel flavors. Overall, this is
oaky but offers good body and balance. The Artisan
Collection. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $33
86
Castillo Clavijo 2011 Fermentado en Barrica
Viura-Malvasia-Garnacha Blanca (Rioja).
This gold-tinted, oak-topped, barrel-fermented
blend of Viura, Malvasia and Garnacha displays
notes of lacquer, candle wax and peach pit. The palate is juicy, with malic acid in the lead. Flavors of
tart lemon and white peach turn wheaty and flat on
the finish, with oxidized notes of vanilla and corn.
—M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
85
Palacios Remondo 2011 Plácet Viura (Rioja).
Fleshy, plump aromas of baked apple, melon and barrel smoke set up a honeyed, flat palate.
This Viura is melony and mealy tasting, with notes
of mushroom, papaya and bitterness on the finish.
Overall this is short on flavor and feels creamy and
heavy. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $45
LA MANCHA
85
Marqués de Castilla 2013 Cristo de la Vega
Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay (La Mancha).
Melon, papaya and other chunky white-fruit aromas
come in front of a peachy, basic palate. Flavors of
peach, apple and papaya are melony and round, as
is the finish on this fresh but generic white. Drink
immediately. Decanto Wines. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $10
85
Yuntero 2013 Mundo de Yuntero Bio VerdejoSauvignon Blanc (La Mancha). Mild apple,
pear and almond aromas give way to a plump but
bland palate. Melon and papaya flavors are fair,
while the finish is clean but light. This Verdejo-SB
blend is a straightforward quaffer. W. Direct. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $14
84
Epilogo 2013 Sauvignon Blanc-Moscatel (La
Mancha). Tropical-fruit aromas highlight
the Moscatel in this blend. The palate is plump
and melony in feel, with melon, peach and lychee
flavors. The finish is soft and doesn’t show a lot of
acidity or cut. W. Direct. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
TIERRA DE CASTILLA
84
Dominio de Eguren 2013 Protocolo White
(Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Lime, melon
and citrus aromas are basic but clean. The palate is
pulpy in feel, while pithy flavors of white grapefruit
and generic citrus fruits finish with a mild note of
papaya. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $7
82
Felix Solis 2012 Flirty Bird White (Vino de la
Tierra de Castilla). Tropical fruit and citrus
aromas aren’t bad, but the palate is heavy. The flavor profile only offers soap and grassy white-fruit
flavors, while a light, flowery finish falls flat. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $4
ROSÉ WINES
84
Real Compañia de Vinos 2013 Rosado
(Spain). This rusty-looking rosé smells rustic, with cherry and raspberry notes. In the mouth,
it registers as full-bodied, while the flavor profile is
chunky and dry, with early signs of oxidation that
are confirmed on a low-steam finish. Drink right
away. Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
heavy doses of asphalt, raw oak, char, exotic wood
and dark berry aromas. It’s layered, rich and lively
in the mouth, with heady, toasty flavors of smoked
black fruits. A mix of toast, baking spices and licorice flavors shadow subtle but integral black-fruit
notes. Best from 2015 through 2020. Frontier Wine
Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $78
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Otazu 2013 Merlot Rosado (Navarra). The
nose is funky and sweaty, with a hint of citrus and red-berry aromas. The palate is heavy and
cloying, while generic flavors taste sticky, reedy and
suggest no particular fruits. A light bitterness marks
the finish. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
82
Garbó 2013 Rosat (Montsant). Oxidized and
flat on the nose, this has a palate with mealy,
bland strawberry flavors. Nothing changes on a fading, less-than-fresh finish. Freixenet USA. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $19
82
Vega Sindoa 2013 Garnacha Rosé (Navarra).
Funky, leathery and briny, the offers no clear
fruit expression. The palate is heavy, hard and lacks
finesse. Flavors of red fruits and citrus are tart and
generic, while the finish is bitter and salty. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
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Dominio de Eguren 2013 Protocolo Rosé
(Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). This simple
salmon-colored rosado offers peach and nectarine
aromas along with dusty notes. The palate is plump
and shows moderate acidity. Flavors of pink grapefruit, melon and red apple finish soft. Drink immediately. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $7
Armas de Guerra 2013 Mencía Rosado (Bierzo). Salmon-colored, this is neutral on the
nose except for a touch of peach and melon. The palate feels plump and melony, with adequate acidity.
Simple peachy flavors finish with no lasting impression. Ole Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
Viña Vilano 2013 Tempranillo Rosado (Ribera
del Duero). Aromas of paint and vanilla come
with stalky fragrances that are low on freshness and
fruit. The palate is weighty, while the flavor profile
is muddled and briny. Chateau Armand. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
Viña Santa Marina 2012 Merlot Rosado
(Extremadura). From Spain’s broiling Extremadura region, this Merlot-based rosé has a
funky nose and mushy, leafy flavors. The finish lacks
zest. All Star Imports, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
SPAIN
84
Jardín de Lúculo 2013 Los Bohemios Garnacha Rosé (Navarra). Dusty strawberry and
cherry aromas are hollow but easy. The palate is
plump but short on edge and framing. Flavors of
strawberry and raspberry roll awkwardly into a
low-acid, soft finish. Axial Wines USA. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $9
84
Pittacum 2013 Tres Obispos Mencía Rosado
(Bierzo). Aromas of generic red fruits and
children’s vitamins are the greeting. This is chunky
in feel, with light acidity that tries to keep things
from coming across cloying. Candied flavors could
use more dryness and elegance, while the finish is
sweet and tastes of brown sugar and berry syrup.
Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
RED WINES
BIERZO
94
Dominio de Tares 2011 Cepas Viejas Mencía
(Bierzo). This exemplary old-vines wine
delivers ripe blackberry, leather and herb aromas
along with hints of toast, minerals and lemon peel.
The palate is sinewy and powerfully built. Flavors
of loamy berry, toasty oak, licorice and lemon zest
end with a blackened overriding flavor and length.
Drink now through 2021. Opici Wines. Editors’
Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $52
93
Bodega del Abad 2011 Carracedo Mencía
(Bierzo). This intense Mencía is showing
Descendientes de J. Palacios 2011 Moncerbal Corullón (Bierzo). Cool aromas of cola,
roasted berry and leather are also lightly floral,
with violet hints. The palate on this single-vineyard
Mencía is vital but meaty, with dark, earthy, toasty
black-fruit flavors. A chewy finish offers up robust
pepper and chocolate notes to accent leftover berry
flavors. Drink through 2019. Rare Wine Company.
—M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $100
93
Dominio de Tares 2010 Tares P.3 (Bierzo).
Dark, concentrated aromas are oaky and
lemony, with a note of graphite showing through.
This is forward, layered and hard-driving on the
palate, with baked berry and mineral flavors leading
the charge. Crisp acidity and flavors of licorice and
black pepper grace the finish on this lusty red. Drink
through 2019. Opici Wines. —M.S.
abv: NA
Price: $90
93
Pittacum 2009 Aurea Mencía (Bierzo). Ripe,
loamy, rooty aromas of blackberry, cedar
and marzipan are a fine draw. This is firm and juicy,
with a solid foundation of acidity and integrated
tannins. Robust flavors of black fruits and fig finish
tight, fresh and proportional. This is good now but
still evolving; drink through 2020. Aveniù Brands,
Inc. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $52
92
Descendientes de J. Palacios 2011 Villa de
Corullón (Bierzo). This is a ripe Mencía with
mild prune, raisin, fig and baked berry aromas. The
palate is intense and shows major-league grip. Flavors of earthy, baked black fruits, wild herbs, dried
black plum and chocolate finish long, toasty, spicy
and serious. Drink through 2018. Rare Wine Company. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $40
92
Dominio de Tares 2011 Baltos Mencía (Bierzo). Dark, ripe aromas of blackberry and
cassis are accented by tree bark, baking spice and
licorice notes. This feels ripe, loamy and borderline
jammy. Flavors of blackberry, boysenberry, cocoa
and loamy earth finish toasty and weighty. Drink
through 2017. Opici Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
92
Dominio de Tares 2010 Bembibre (Bierzo).
Raisin, cassis, earth and lead pencil aromas
make up the bouquet on this ripe, meaty Mencía. The
palate pushes up against jammy, but shows enough
structure and restraint to rate highly. Earthy, loamy
flavors of ripe blackberry blend with herbal notes
WINEMAG.COM | 57
BUYINGGUIDE
and graphite to usher in a smooth, warm, oaky finish. Drink through 2020. Opici Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $47
months in oak; drink now through 2015. Quality
Wines of Spain. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
are apparent on the finish, which is long, driving,
spicy and oaky. Rare Wine Company. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
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Losada 2011 Bierzo. Concentrated, smoky
aromas of dark fruits, graphite and toast are
direct and potent. A grabby mouthfeel is defined by
elastic, staunch tannins. Blackberry, cassis and a
hint of lemony oak create a fine flavor profile, while
the finish is loamy and tastes of licorice and peppery spices. Drink through 2018. Classical Wines.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
Losada 2010 Altos de Losada (Bierzo). Initially this smells closed, charred, oaky and
minty more than lush and fruity, but with airing
things get reversed. The palate is rich, ripped and
juicy, with excellent structure. Flavors of blackberry, cassis, spice and reedy tobacco finish dry, powerful and with a strong note of licorice. Drink through
2020. Classical Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $44
92
Paixar 2011 Mencía (Bierzo). Ripe, jammy
raspberry and blackberry aromas come
with pastry notes and a strong blast of woodspice.
This strapping wine has staunch tannins and hardpushing acidity. Flavors of toast, blackberry and
pepper lean toward the dark side, while the wine’s
handsome finish is secure in structure, balance
and length. Drink through 2020. Grapes of Spain.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $69
92
Raúl Pérez 2010 Ultreia de Valtuille Mencía
(Bierzo). Upon opening, this smells oaky
and lemony, although airing brings it around. Fresh
and mildly astringent on the palate, this tastes oaky
and briny at first, then more complex, deep and
toasty as it spreads out. Licorice, herb and background berry flavors are woody and still somewhat
fiery on the finish. Drink 2015 through 2025. Ole
Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $113
91
Dominio de Tares 2009 Cepas Viejas Mencía
(Bierzo). Mature and smooth up front, this
is showing rooty, earthy black-fruit aromas that are
loamy and ripe. A shot of lively acidity creates good
flow, while flavors of ripe, baked, toasty berry fruits
are dark in nature and suggest espresso and bitter
chocolate. A crisp, peppery, lightly burnt-tasting
finish is smoky and long. Drink through 2019. Opici
Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
91
Gancedo 2012 Mencía (Bierzo). Initial aromas
are oaky and a touch raw, but soon they settle on raspberry and plum. This is a chunky, fruitforward Mencia with dark berry, raspberry, spice,
resiny oak and salty flavors. A full, lively finish is
muscular but also fresh and bright. It had only eight
58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
Gancedo 2008 Xestal Mencía (Bierzo). Dry,
leathery and earthy up front, this mature
Mencía is all about grip and complexity. In the
mouth, it’s tight and tannic. Flavors of dry cherry
and berry are layered and earthy, while hard tannins
and additional earth notes steer a long, spicy finish.
Drink through 2019. Quality Wines of Spain. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
Godelia 2011 Selección (Bierzo). Dense, roasted, earthy aromas of lightly stewed berry
fruits and leather set up a deep, oaky palate with
baked, loamy dark-fruit flavors that finish smooth,
mellow and rich in feel. This is luxurious Mencía
with modest acidity; drink through 2017. Europvin
USA. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $45
Luna Beberide 2011 Finca la Cuesta (Bierzo).
With pure black-fruit aromas, modest minerality and violet scents, the bouquet is right on
target. In the mouth, this is saturated and wide,
with smooth tannins. Earthy flavors of blackberry,
licorice and baking spices finish solid and toasty.
This fits the bill and then some; drink through 2018.
Grapes of Spain. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
Pittacum 2010 Aurea Mencía (Bierzo). This is
a full, round, woody bottling, with graphite,
leather and mild herbal aromas. The palate feel is
concentrated but also tannic and grating. Flavors of
bold black fruits, herbs and barrel resin finish tight,
with residual raw oak in abundance. Drink through
2018. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $52
Abad Dom Bueno 2011 Mencía (Bierzo).
Concentrated, potent aromas of earthy
blackberry and cassis bring notes of briar patch,
prune and exotic spices. The palate is full and oaky
but fresh, with flavors of berry, cassis, herb and
wood grain. A heavy finish with overt oak and related spice is modern in style. Drink through 2017.
Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
Alvarez de Toledo 2010 Roble Mencía (Bierzo). This everyday Bierzo is showing max
ripeness on the nose. The palate is full and intense,
with a lightning bolt of acidity keeping everything
in focus. Bold berry, baking spice and toasty flavors
finish with notes of graphite, blackberry and cassis.
Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
Descendientes de J. Palacios 2012 Pétalos
(Bierzo). Bold, floral aromas of rubbery redberry fruits introduce a full, fresh, largely elegant
palate that’s home to minerally, medicinal cherry,
plum and berry flavors. Wood grain and resiny notes
Encanto 2011 Roble Mencía (Bierzo). This
fresh, pure value red cranks out raspberry
and boysenberry aromas in front of a crisp, tight
palate. Ripe, quick-hitting flavors of red-berry
fruits and toasty smoke finish zesty, with a lasting
note of pie cherry. Vinamericas Selections. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
Gancedo 2008 Ucedo Mencía (Bierzo).
Pointed, toasty aromas of black fruits and
graphite are lemony, woody and not bashful. A giant
palate with rock-hard, piercing tannins is drying
but generous. Flavors of wild berries, earth and oak
finish toasty and tannic, with lasting acidity. Drink
through 2023. Quality Wines of Spain. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $80
Godelia 2011 Mencía (Bierzo). This ripe offering opens with aromas of lightly stewed
black fruits and baked beans. In the mouth, it’s
chewy and rich, with a syrupy leaning. Flavors of
oak-based hickory, toast and savory spices accent
blackberry fruit, while the finish is toasty, peppery
and dark in character. Drink through 2017. Europvin
USA. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $21
Godelia 2009 Mencía (Bierzo). This is an
earthy Mencía with cheesy aromas, tobacco
hints and a pinch of compost that suggests ripeness
and maturity. The palate is deep and intense, with
a modest but pointed beam of acidity. Fern, juniper, mint leaf, licorice and blackberry flavors finish
warm. Drink through 2016. Europvin USA. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $21
Pittacum 2009 Mencía (Bierzo). Earthy,
rubbery berry aromas are a touch smoky.
This is broad, bold and firm in the mouth, with
gritty flavors of briary black fruit, spice and minty
green. Chocolate and coffee flavors on the finish come with modest burn and bitterness. Drink
through 2018. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $24
Vinos de Arganza 2011 Flavium Selección
Mencía (Bierzo). Jammy aromas of plum
and berry are oaky and come with a hint of rubber
and/or latex. This is weighty yet balanced. Earthy
flavors of baked black fruits, tea and spice are
slightly minerally, while the finish is oaky and generous, with a touch of menthol and heat. W. Direct.
Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
Prada A Tope 2010 Palacio de Canedo
Ecológico Roble Mencía (Bierzo). Pure and
crisp on the nose, this lightly oaked Mencía smells
of currant, raspberry, mixed spices and herbs. It’s
bouncy and firm in the mouth, with pronounced
acidity. Flavors of berry and currant are more generic than special, while the finish holds form as it
fades away. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
89
Vinos de Arganza 2011 Flavium Premium
Mencía (Bierzo). Berry, toast and mineral
aromas capture the essence of Mencía from Bierzo.
A well-sculpted palate offers ripe flavors of black
plum, blackberry and oak. A peppery, lush finish
turns toward raisin as it fades away. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
88
Gotín del Risc 2010 Mencía (Bierzo). Charred
aromas are draped over spicy, leafy berry
aromas. This oak-blackened Mencía is wiry and
bright in feel, with lightly green, mildly herbal and
minty flavors of burnt berry and smoked meat. An
herbal-tasting finish is good in feel. Well-Oiled
Wine Company. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
88
Pittacum 2010 Mencía (Bierzo). Reduced,
foxy berry aromas come with a rubbery note
of latex. The palate is full and chunky, with moderate flabby weight. Black-fruit and peppery flavors
end in loamy, toasty, jammy fashion, so drink this
full-bodied Mencía now. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
88
Vinos de Arganza 2010 Século Roble Mencía
(Bierzo). Muscular, roasted aromas of
earthy berry fruits and oak are stout. This hits with
iron-clad tannins, while flavors of blue fruits, resiny
oak and graphite end with a mildly raisin-like aftertaste. W. Direct. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
87
Encanto 2010 Charm Selección (Bierzo).
Very ripe cassis, blackberry and raisiny aromas set up a dry, drawing palate with full tannins.
Flavors of lemony oak, burnt toast, lead pencil and
roasted black fruits finish woody and chunky. Vinamericas Selections. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
87
La Mano 2012 Roble Mencía (Bierzo).
Pinched, lightly medicinal aromas of raspberry and plum feed into a bright, jumpy palate.
Quick blasts of plum and berry flavors come with
spice notes, while the finish is light, fresh and a
touch peppery. This delivers true Mencia character
for not much money. Axial Wines USA. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
87
Pittacum 2013 Petit Pittacum (Bierzo).
While this young Mencía starts out aggressive and jammy-smelling before displaying a rubbery, cheek-grabbing mouthfeel, flavors of foxy
plum and raspberry are good and fruity. Plum, latex
and medicinal notes work the finish on this fruitforward wine. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
87
Prada A Tope 2012 Palacio de Canedo Ecológico Maceración (Bierzo). Jammy red berry
and currant aromas suggest cherry Kool-Aid. Crisp,
fresh and racy in the mouth, this delivers a mix of
cherry, latex and peppery flavors, while the finish
is medicinal and spicy, with a lasting note of raspberry. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
86
Losada 2013 El Pájaro Rojo Mencía (Bierzo).
Reduced, floral and plummy on the nose,
this is a simple, blocky, tannic young wine. Medicinal berry flavors finish loud and grapy, with a
grabby, tacky feel. Fruit outweighs finesse. Classical
Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
85
Prada A Tope 2008 Palacio de Canedo
Ecológico Crianza Mencía (Bierzo). This aged
wine is oaky to an extreme, with minty, resiny aromas that crowd out dried raspberry and currant
notes. A wiry, tomatoey, almost citric mouthfeel is
low on body and high on acid. Flavors of tart plum
and raspberry finish raw and woody. Regal Wine
Imports Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
82
Godelia 2013 Viernes Mencía (Bierzo). Rubbery, berry aromas are feral in nature. This
is bumpy in feel, with young, herbal, untamed flavors of plastic and briary berry fruits. It’s herbal
and rubbery on the finish. Europvin USA. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
TORO
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Maurodos 2011 San Román (Toro). This vintage of San Román is extremely ripe and
oaky, with buttery richness sharing the nose with
asphalt, wood resin, cassis and dark-berry aromas.
The palate is dense and deep, but it also shows a bit
of dead weight compared to better prior versions.
Flavors of black fruits, woodspice and pepper finish long and a touch raisiny. Drink through 2020.
Grapes of Spain. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $67
90
Matsu 2011 El Viejo (Toro). For full review
see page 11.
abv: 15%
Price: $49
89
Maurodos 2011 Prima (Toro). Earth, leather,
a touch of compost, soy, hoison sauce and
raisin aromas all vie for attention on this tannic,
ripe, almost stewy Toro. Seriously ripe flavors of
sun-baked berry fruits and black currant veer towards prune and raisin on a rich, chocolaty, figgy
finish. Grapes of Spain. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
88
Damalisco 2009 Crianza (Toro). Initially
this smells horsey and a bit green, but with
airing it improves. In the mouth, hard tannins and
aggressiveness rule the show. Flavors of baked,
meaty, toasty berry fruits finish smoky, chocolaty
and savory, with a pinch of green herbs. Vinamericas Selections. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
88
Elias Mora 2011 Toro. There’s a lot of funk
and animal hide on the nose of this earthy
Toro. The palate is so concentrated it’s like syrup,
while flavors of leafy, earthy berry fruits are accented by chocolate and pepper. This finishes toasty,
oaky and spicy, but also heavy and sticky. Grapes of
Spain. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
87
Matsu 2012 El Recio (Toro). Simple raspberry
and plum aromas are clean but the wine feels
blocky, choppy and drawing. Flavors of woodspice,
loamy berry, tobacco and herbs finish modestly,
with sound tannins and a standard overall quality.
Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $27
87
Rejadorada 2012 Tinto Roble (Toro). Smoky
plum and red-berry aromas come with a
hint of latex. This is full in feel and generally well
balanced, with dark plum and berry flavors that are
earthy but not overly complex. It delivers a steady
finish. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
87
Rejadorada 2009 Sango Reserva (Toro).
Aromas of tomato, balsamic black fruits and
beef stew announce a blocky palate that’s flat in
feel. Flavors of pepper, prune and stewed blackberry
finish dark and rubbery, and overall this is ripe but
lacking in structure and mouthfeel. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $42
83
Pata Negra 2012 Roble (Toro). Candied
cherry and plum aromas are light and not
that convincing. This is a wiry, choppy, light-bodied
red with tart, juicy plum and raspberry flavors. A
short yet fresh finish hollows out quickly. CIV/USA.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
82
Cyan 2012 8 Meses (Toro). Raisiny, baked
aromas announce a stewy, overripe wine
that’s not balanced. Baked, flat flavors of raisin and
prune finish with excess weight, heavy tannins and
flavors of carob and herbs. Matarromera USA, Inc.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
82
Damalisco 2012 Roble (Toro). Stalky, leathery, roasted aromas are muddled. This is
acidic on the palate, with a gritty mouthfeel. Flavors of stalky, herbal berry fruits lack purity, while
the finish is hollow and bitter tasting. Vinamericas
Selections. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
WINEMAG.COM | 59
BUYINGGUIDE
RIBERA DEL DUERO
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Valderiz 2009 Ribera del Duero. This is an
exemplary RDD with an ideal mix of leather,
black fruit, spice and toast aromas. The palate is
free-flowing, with balance and power but also elegance. Flavors of oaky toast, mixed spices, licorice
and molasses come with ribald berry and cassis,
while the finish shows blackened toast, bitter chocolate, warmth and length. Drink this ideal Spanish
red now through 2023. Regal Wine Imports Inc.
Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $40
90
Martín Berdugo 2009 Reserva (Ribera del
Duero). For full review see page 11.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
piness. Red & White International Brands, LLC.
—M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $33
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Comenge 2009 Ribera del Duero. Big, roasted, stalky berry aromas are more saucy than
bright and focused. This is a bulky, thick warmvintage wine without a lot of acidic cut. Flavors
of loamy, baked berry and fig finish soft, spicy and
baked. Drink now. Beacon Wine Company. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
RIOJA
Dominio de Berzal 2010 Crianza (Rioja).
Baked blackberry, dark cherry and herbal
notes define the nose on this saturated crianza from
a very good vintage. Short flavor bursts of raisin,
spicecake and vanilla rest on a relaxed, fairly lush
finish that’s showing only mild acidity. Drink now
through 2017. Vinamericas Selections. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Finca Hispana 2011 FH Castrijo Crianza (Rioja). For full review see page 12. Best Buy.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
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Vega Sicilia 2009 Valbuena 5° (Ribera del
Duero). This is the best Valbuena since
2005, and it may be better than that. Exotic aromas
of leather, lemon peel, sawdust and boysenberry
come in front of a tannic but lively and intricate
palate. Baked, heady flavors of black fruits, pepper
and mocha finish with chocolate and vanilla as well
as juicy acidity. Drink now through 2022. Europvin
USA. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $130
García Figuero 2009 Tinto Figuero Viñas Viejas VS (Ribera del Duero). Formerly known as
Vendimia Seleccionada, this old-vines Tempranillo
is strutting its stuff. Savory, rooty, baked aromas
of black fruits come with a hint of grit and leather.
The mouthfeel is powerful and deep, while flavors of
toasty oak, chocolate, coconut, tobacco and vanilla
accent spicy blackberry and cassis notes that finish
long and strong. Drink through 2024. Quintessential Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $69
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Torrederos 2009 Reserva (Ribera del Duero).
Aromas of crushed minerals, blackened
spices, blackberry and dark cherry are integrated
and whole. The palate is ripe and tannic but not
fierce, with blackberry, black cherry, toast and spice
flavors that finish chocolaty and rich, with nutmeglike notes and length. Best from 2015 through 2022.
Estelle Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
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Hesvera 2009 Cosecha Limitada (Ribera del
Duero). Ripe, baked, raisiny aromas of blackberry, coconut, resiny oak, tomato sauce and herbs
set up a racy, high-intensity palate with flavors of
berry, fig and blackened spices. The finish is rooty in
flavor, with notes of licorice and chocolate offset by
sharp residual acidity. P.R. Grisley Company. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
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Resalte 2009 Crianza (Ribera del Duero).
Smoky, dark aromas of blackberry, vanilla,
licorice and toast introduce a palate with verve,
power and balance. Flavors of ripe blackberry and
boysenberry are toasty and dark, then fig and mocha
flavors take over on the finish. Drink through 2018.
RM Distributors Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $31
60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
CVNE 2009 Imperial Reserva (Rioja). Smoky,
tight, gritty aromas of licorice, tobacco, cassis and berry are lively and ripped. This is layered
and acidic, but also classy. Flavors of herbal redberry fruits, coffee, herbs and licorice finish long
and seamless. Drink this classic Rioja from 2015
through 2022. Europvin USA. Cellar Selection.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $43
Telmo Rodríguez 2009 Lanzaga (Rioja). Cedar, tobacco and berry aromas are more general than specific. The palate is on the heavy side,
with grabby tannins. Flavors of roasted berry fruits
and cocoa finish dense, steady and with depth.
While this is a bit heavy and ripe, it speaks of Rioja
in a positive way; drink through 2020. Vintus LLC.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36
Altos del Marqués 2010 ADM Crianza (Rioja). Airy and woody on the nose, this textbook Rioja crianza is woody, dry, light and elegant,
with a smooth but juicy palate that brings raspberry, plum and brown sugar flavors to the fore. Spice
and dry red-fruit flavors meld with juicy acidity on
the finish. Drink through 2017. Hidalgo Imports,
LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
Artadi 2011 Viñas de Gain (Rioja). Inky, minerally aromas of blackberry, black plum
and coconut filter into a round, fluffy palate that’s
friendly and pure but not very dense or structured.
Baked flavors of molasses and gamy berry finish
mild and easy. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
90
Bodegas Corral 2008 Altos de Corral Barrel
Fermented (Rioja). For full review see page
10.
abv: 13.5%
90
Price: $32
Casado Morales 2010 Selección Privada
(Rioja). Oaky aromas of hickory and woodspice accent minerally berry scents. This is concentrated on the palate, but still quite oaky in its
current youthful state. On the flavor profile, barrel
notes lead short berry and currant flavors, while the
finish is dark, tannic and toasty, with mild chop-
90
Valdelacierva 2009 Alfar Reserva Edición
Limitada (Rioja). Cedar, coconut, tobacco
and earthy berry aromas are typical of Rioja. This
is juicy and zesty in the mouth, with bright acidity. Flavors of berry, vanilla and earth finish strong.
This is an excellent but not overly complicated
wine; drink through 2024. USA Wine West. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $57
Viña Valoria 2010 Crianza (Rioja). Lightly
baked, mildly raisiny aromas include notes
of vanilla and cake. This feels ripe, steady and
round, with solid acidity. Flavors of loamy berry
fruits blend with riper raisin and prune characteristics, while the finish is mild in power but stout in
feel. Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
Bodegas Bilbainas 2011 Viña Zaco Tempranillo (Rioja). Ripe, welcoming berry, smoke
and floral aromas lead the bouquet of this modern
Rioja. This is no wallflower; there’s kick to the palate, lots of oak, then robust black cherry and plum
flavors. It’s also fairly rugged in feel and a bit hot
on the finish. Drink through 2017. Aveniù Brands,
Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
Casado Morales 2011 Rioja. Smoky, charred
aromas of maple, blackened spices and
baked berry fruits set up a woody, fully oaked palate
with good texture and weight. This features a blast
of hickory flavor on top of berry and plum fruit,
while the finish is grabby and tannic. Red & White
International Brands, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
89
Valdelacierva 2012 Alfar Vendimia Seleccionada (Rioja). Cedary oak aromas are draped
heavily over this smoky, dark, cheesy-smelling
Rioja. The mouthfeel is tight, tannic and resiny, but
also spunky and properly acidic. Raw oak, coconut
and vanilla accent dark-berry core flavors, while the
finish is much like the bouquet: toasty and woody.
USA Wine West. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
89
Valdelacierva 2011 Crianza (Rioja). Floral
red-fruit aromas fold in herb and spice accents. This is a crisp, dry Rioja with plenty of oak
character on the palate. Flavors of vanilla, wood
spice, tomato and tobacco are authentic, while the
finish is mellow, juicy and peppery, with a vanilla
note. USA Wine West. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
89
Vinícola Real 2009 Cueva del Monge Tempranillo (Rioja). From the get-go this is a serious Rioja with a lot of oak. Aromas of vanilla and
rubbery berry fruits come in front of a high-acid,
spiky palate. Flavors of tobacco, licorice, berry and
cedar are shrill but run long, with lasting acidity.
Drink through 2024. Grapes of Spain. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $33
87
Osoti 2012 Organic Joven (Rioja). Dusty,
earthy berry aromas are solid and pure. This
is a juicy, lively organic wine with good weight and
balance. Spicy, peppery flavors of oak and berry
fruits finish with mild heat and dry spice notes. TriVin Imports. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
87
Viñamada 2008 Reserva (Rioja). Cedary,
leafy, dry aromas of cherry and lemon peel
filter into a sinewy, oaky palate with cherry, plum
and vanilla flavors. A direct finish is hard-driving
and a bit herbal. Like many 2008 Riojas, this is
rough and firm in its delivery. Hidalgo Imports, LLC.
—M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
heavy with oak. A minty, dry, peppery finish is a
touch hot. Vintus LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
86
Vallobera 2011 Javier San Pedro Crianza (Rioja). Dry, dusty berry aromas and a whiff of
animal fur make up the nose on this flush, tannic
Tempranillo. Grapy, gamy berry flavors are forceful,
while this finishes dark in flavor, tannic and tough.
Axial Wines USA. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $14
85
Casa Juan 2012 Cuarteto Joven (Rioja). Rubbery, leafy plum aromas come before a tannic palate with raspberry, plum, herbal notes and
dry oak flavors. This is tight, drawing, oaky and
briny-tasting on the finish. Terraneo Merchants.
—M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
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Carlos Serres 2011 Old Vines (Rioja). Earthy
and perfumed berry aromas get this off to a
good start. The palate is chewy and medium in size,
with straightforward blackberry flavors backed by a
blast of coffee. The finish dries out quickly, leaving a
peppery aftertaste. Testa Wines Of The World. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
Vallobera 2008 Javier San Pedro Reserva
(Rioja). Dry, spicy, woody, earthy berry
aromas are common for Rioja. This is bouncy and
full of tomato-like acidity, while favors of tobacco,
reedy berry fruits and spice are a touch green in the
middle. On the finish, this is rough but true to the
vintage, which was notoriously cold, wet and difficult. Axial Wines USA. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
88
Vinsacro 2010 Dioro (Rioja). Compost,
sweaty leather and rubbery aromas muddle the fruit-based aromas. The palate is wide and
chunky, with plenty of weight but also a bit of flab.
Herbal, loamy, peppery berry flavors finish earthy,
with a licorice note. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $21
87
Bodegas Franco-Españolas 2012 Royal (Rioja). For full review see page 13. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
87
Campellares 2011 Rioja. The plum and floral
aromas are easy to like. This is bright and
right on the palate, with balance. Plum and raspberry are the key flavors, yet there isn’t much to the
finish. Drink this pleasant red at any point through
2017. Grapes of Spain. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
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Casado Morales 2012 Nobleza Dimidium (Rioja). Dusty, rubbery berry aromas are peppery
and scratchy. This has a round, bouncy mouthfeel
and loamy, lightly baked flavors of blackberry and
raisin. An earthy, loamy-tasting finish provides a
weighty anchor. Red & White International Brands,
LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $18
Aldonia 2012 Vendimia (Rioja). Dusty, medicinal berry and plum aromas are open
and bright. A juicy but pinched palate features narrow flavors of plum and berry skins, while the finish is rubbery in feel, with astringency as well as
bright residual fruit flavors. Regal Wine Imports
Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
Castillo Labastida 2008 Reserva (Rioja).
Wiry berry aromas are jacked up with spice
as well as stalky notes. There’s a fair amount of astringency to the palate, while flavors of plum and
red berries finish juicy but also briny and a touch
horsey in flavor. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
Lealtanza 2011 Crianza (Rioja). This starts
out savory and smoky on the nose, but with
airing it turns murky. The palate is tight in structure, with red-fruit acidity. Flavors of cherry, raspberry and oaky vanilla turn roasted and stalky as
this unwinds on a fresh-feeling finish. The Artisan
Collection. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
Pagos del Rey 2012 Castillo de Albai (Rioja).
Scratchy, horsey berry aromas set up a
fresh, regular palate. Plum, berry and peppery flavors are basic, while the finish dries out fast while
showing a wood character along with juicy acidity.
MHW, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
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Pagos del Rey 2008 Arnegui Reserva (Rioja).
Wiry cherry aromas are a touch cheesy and
also medicinal. This is pinched and astringent, with
a choppy mix of buttery red-berry flavors and vanilla. Like most 2008s, this finishes hard and abrupt,
with staunch tannins. MHW, Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Telmo Rodríguez 2012 LZ (Rioja). Exceedingly dry berry aromas register as scratchy
and woody. This is intense and grabby in feel, with
minty strawberry and raspberry flavors that run
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El Circulo 2012 Rioja. Herbal plum and leather aromas are tight and earthy. This is juicy,
with green-leaning plum and rhubarb flavors that
have a peppery note. The finish is minty. Luneau
USA Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
J. Garcia Carrion 2012 Antaño Tempranillo
(Rioja). Angular, crisp aromas of red fruits
and rubberband are echoed on a sizzling, high-acid
palate. This tastes like tart red plum and currant,
while the finish is lean, quick and acid-driven. CIV/
USA. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
Sierra Cantabria 2011 Rioja. This basic bottling is citrusy and tight on the nose, then
outright acidic and tart on the palate. Sour lemon,
currant and plum flavors finish raw. This is razorsharp, without much charm. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
Gran Familia 2011 Rioja. Decent in initial
mouthfeel, things quickly turn hot and fiery, while the finish simmers with weedy, peppery
flavors. Well-Oiled Wine Company. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
NAVARRA
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Ochoa 2013 Estate Bottled Garnacha-Tempranillo (Navarra). Rubbery black-fruit aromas turn earthy and slightly complex if given time
to unfold. This feels lively but thick on the palate,
with punchy plum and blackberry flavors. A stout
finish shows good body and structure along with
berry flavors. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
87
Jardín de Lúculo 2012 Garnachas Atlánticas
(Navarra). Earthy plum and berry aromas
bring a floral note. This feels firm, rubbery and
tight, with raw tannins and bright acidity. Earthy,
WINEMAG.COM | 61
BUYINGGUIDE
rubbery blackberry flavors offer hints of chocolate
and fig, while the finish is leathery and a touch salty.
Axial Wines USA. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
full-bodied, ripe Garnacha now through 2015. Gil
Family Estates. —M.S.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $45
ALICANTE
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Bodegas Artazu 2012 Artazuri Garnacha
(Navarra). Raw raspberry and plum aromas
feed into a crisp, edgy palate with grating acidity.
Tart plum and berry flavors turn earthy upon airing,
while this finishes with pointed acidity and snappy
red-fruit flavors. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $12
Vega Sindoa 2012 El Chaparral Old Vines
Garnacha (Navarra). This Garnacha is heavily oaked.Smoky, woody aromas come with dusty
berry notes, while the palate is heavy, with cheeksmacking tannins. Flavors of hickory and roasted
blackberry finish with another creamy, woody dose
of oak. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
CAMPO DE BORJA
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Alto Moncayo 2010 Veraton Garnacha (Campo
de Borja). Oaky, heavily roasted aromas of
hickory, baking spices, coconut and exotic blackfruit scents feed into a chunky but easygoing palate
with spicy, barrel-rich flavors of hickory and vanilla
as well as baked berry and leather. A ripe, slightly
rubbery finish is generous. Drink through 2018.
Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $27
Pagos Familia Langa 2011 Real de Aragón
Garnacha (Calatayud). Flush, jammy, spicy,
peppery aromas are good and fruity. This is full and
tight on the palate, with hard tannins. Flavors of
plum, berry, vanilla and wood resin finish with a
pinched, rubbery feel. This needs food in order to
soften the texture. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
Castillo de Maluenda 2011 Punto Suspensivo Garnacha (Calatayud). A grapy, clamped
nose lacks nuance. In the mouth, this is raw and
choppy, with fresh red-fruit acidity. Red-berry and
oak flavors finish woody, with ample spice and juicy
acidity. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $21
PRIORAT
92
Vall Llach 2010 Porrera Vi de Vila (Priorat).
Dense, dark-fruit aromas of blueberry and
cassis are earthy and almost overripe. A saturated,
bold palate delivers blackberry, chocolate, fig, herb
and rooty flavors in front of a chunky finish. Consistent with the Vall Llach house style, this is ripe and
modern. Drink now through 2017. Folio Fine Wine
Partners. —M.S.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $65
Artadi 2012 Viñedos de el Siqué MonastrellSyrah (Alicante). Minerally blackberry
aromas announce a tannic, firm palate. Flavors of
dark, herbal berry fruits are earthy and stony, while
a peppery, lightly herbal finish is solid and structured. This value-priced Monastrell-Syrah blend is
fresh and well made. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $12
Telmo Rodríguez 2012 Al Muvedre Tinto Joven (Alicante). Punchbowl aromas of red
currant, raspberry, cherry and bath soap set up a
bright yet sinewy palate. Flavors of baked berry,
roasted plum and minerally earth notes finish with
mild herb and spice flavors, ample residual fruit and
juicy acidity. Vintus LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
86
Volver 2012 Tarima Monastrell (Alicante).
Blackberry and boysenberry aromas are a
touch grassy and green in the middle. This is chunky,
jammy and fairly concentrated in the mouth, with
blackberry and cocoa notes. A loamy, plump finish
is friendly and offers plenty of weight and density.
Jorge Ordoñez Selections. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $9
JUMILLA
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Bodegas Aragonesas 2012 Viñas Temprana
Old Vines Garnacha (Campo de Borja). Candied oak aromas smell like sweet plastic and rubber,
while berry scents lurk below. This is blocky and a
bit sticky in feel, with basic plum and berry flavors
that finish with a pasty accent. Scoperta Importing
Co. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
Coto de Hayas 2011 Fagus Selección Especial
Garnacha (Campo de Borja). Clove aromas
are dominant. This oaky Garnacha feels sticky and
syrupy, while the flavor profile is all candied black
fruit and clove. The finish brings more of the same
in this one-dimensional wine. Scoperta Importing
Co. Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $21
CALATAYUD
90
Bodegas Ateca 2010 Atteca Armas Old Vines
Garnacha (Calatayud). On the nose, this
shows well: Aromas of baked black fruits, spice, coconut and sandalwood work together. This is lush
in the mouth, albeit a bit oaky and resiny. Flavors
of clove, sun-baked berry fruits, licorice and pepper finish creamy and low on tannic grip. Drink this
62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
Marco Abella 2010 Loidana (Priorat). Ripe
but nuanced aromas of tobacco, fig, berry
and cassis come in front of a crisp, lively, fresh palate. Flavors of reedy berry, herbs, minerally plum
and red currant finish with herbal tomato hints, dry
tannins and bright acidity. Drink through 2018. Terlato Wines International. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
Francesc Sanchez Bas 2010 Món Clàssic
(Priorat). Earthy, raisiny aromas fold in
Priorat’s patented schist on a ripe bouquet. This is
jammy and a bit overdone with respect to mouthfeel. Earthy, dense flavors of raisin, cassis and licorice finish more weighty than bright. Drink now.
Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
Cellers Unió 2010 Roureda Llicorella Clàssic
(Priorat). Ripe, woody, heady aromas of balsam wood and cedar cigar box set up a pushy, thick,
syrupy palate that delivers a mix of raisin, berry,
stewed plum and licorice flavors. A chewy feeling,
stewy-tasting finish is full and blocky. Monsieur
Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
Monterebro 2011 Crianza (Jumilla). Crisp
plum and floral aromas rest on rocky base
and offer up balsamic notes. This Monastrell-driven
blend is full in body, with spicy, herbal, wild-brush
flavors accenting core dark plum and berry. A lasting finish is herbal, deep and potent. Drink through
2017. Pacific Estates. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
Bodegas Luzón 2012 Luzon Red (Jumilla).
Firm aromas of black plum, black cherry
and sugar beet give way to power and lots of body
on the palate. This delivers the goods in the form
of chocolate and herbal berry flavors, which are
backed by minty, dry oak notes on the finish. Aviva
Vino. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $9
Bodegas San Isidro 2011 Gémina Monastrell
(Jumilla). Dusty, rubbery cherry aromas are
appealing but warm. This hums along on the palate
and offers up a welcome fresh side. Plum and mildly
medicinal cherry flavors finish solid and sweet like
brown sugar. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
87
Hilanda 2010 Término de Arriba Monastrell
(Jumilla). This purple, extracted Monastrell is heady and malty on the nose. In the mouth,
this is chunky and ripe as can be. Woody flavors of
hickory smoke and spicy blackberry finish thick and
grapy, with a barbecue note. Frontier Wine Imports.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
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Juan Gil 2012 Honoro Vera Monastrell (Jumilla). Light, mildly stalky aromas of grassy
red fruits are on the raw and simple side. This feels
hard, with a smacking mouthfeel. Earthy flavors of
raspberry and plum finish chewy but flat. Gil Family
Estates. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $8
OTHER REDS
90
Celler Bàrbara Forés 2010 El Templari (Terra
Alta). Earthy cherry and plum aromas come
with hints of sweet plastic and heat. This is plenty
strong on the palate, with just enough elegance and
restraint to create a sense of comfort. Ripe berry
and plum flavors are syrupy at first then loamy,
while the finish is steady and solid. Drink through
2018. Aviva Vino. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $33
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Adrás 2012 Mencía (Ribeira Sacra). Mild
strawberry and raspberry aromas show a
touch of lactic-smelling oak. Zesty and energetic on
the palate, this pumps out red-fruit and cocoa flavors in front of a juicy, fresh, slightly tangy finish.
Grapes of Spain. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
86
Cellers Baronia del Montsant 2010 Englora
(Montsant). Reduced, stewy, lightly herbal
aromas blend berry and tomato scents. The acidity
on this five-grape blend is pointed and overriding.
Flavors of herbal berry and currant are tangy but
also stewy, while the finish is long and green in flavor. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21
SHERRY
92
Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV 20 Years Old Baco
Imperial Amontillado (Jerez). For full review
see page 6.
abv: 19.5%
Price: $80
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Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Élite Oloroso (Jerez). For full review see page 6.
abv: 18%
Price: $25
with modest acidity. Flavors of creamed corn, caramel and soft melon finish plump, with a baked quality. It lacks vivacity. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $30
84
Bodega Catena Zapata 2013 Chardonnay
(Mendoza). Popcorn, paint thinner and
other oak-driven aromas control the nose on this
resiny, woody wine. Like the nose, the flavor profile
is barrel dominated. It finishes with resin, sawdust
and bitter flavors. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Élite Amontillado
(Jerez). Walnut, almond and toffee aromas
drive the nose on this amontillado that’s narrow on
the nose and not at all blowsy. In the mouth, this is
round and rolls along with ease. Flavors of almond
and peanut brittle finish long and toasty, with a
lasting note of peanut butter. CIV/USA. —M.S.
abv: 18%
Price: $25
Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV 30 Yr. Old Baco
Imperial Oloroso (Jerez). Caramel and
baked-apple aromas are nutty and not pushy. This
is crisp, with hard-hitting acidity. Flavors of orange
peel, toffee and oxidized white fruits finish nutty,
much like walnut oil. This is a fine Sherry but it’s a
bit tangy and high in acid. CIV/USA. —M.S.
abv: 19.5%
Price: $100
Delgado Zuleta NV Premium Medium Dry
Blend of Amontillado (Jerez). Maple, toffee and citrus-peel aromas are appealing. This is a
touch soft when it comes to the mouthfeel, while
flavors of maple and brown sugar finish with a distinct flavor of sautéed mushroom and white pepper.
Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 17.5%
Price: $16
ARGENTINA
CHARDONNAY
Santa Ana 2013 Reserve Chardonnay (Mendoza). Melon and tropical-fruit aromas precede a juice-like palate that struggles with mouthfeel. Flavors of mealy apple and peach finish with
melon and green banana notes. Overall this is just
good enough to enjoy as a quaffer. Saranty Imports.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
Tilia 2013 Chardonnay (Mendoza). Nectarine aromas are bland and slightly rubbery.
This is creamy, round and pulpy feeling, with papaya, banana and briny citrus flavors. A flabby, wheaty
tasting finish is just lively enough. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
Trapiche 2013 Oak Cask Chardonnay (Mendoza). Apple, straw and oily aromas are
bland. This smacks down with malic acid but then
hollows out as mild citrus, melon and honey flavors
take hold. The finish is static and mellow. The Wine
Group. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $14
83
O. Fournier 2013 Urban Uco Chardonnay (Uco
Valley). Oily, gritty stone-fruit aromas announce a plump, soft palate with papaya and banana
flavors. A mealy quality and bitterness rise up on
the finish. The Country Vintner-Craft and Estate.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Finca Casa Lo Alto 2011 Crianza (Utiel-Requena). Earthy aromas of cola and baked
berry fruits introduce a saturated, tannic mouthfeel that supports dark-berry flavors that turn more
herbal, stalky and mulchy with airing. The more this
sits in the glass, the more tannic and pushy it gets.
Axial Wines USA. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
Barahonda 2011 Barrica Monastrell-Syrah
(Yecla). This Monastrell-Syrah blend smells
roasted, with animal notes and a whiff of wild herbs.
The palate is syrupy and grabby, with cherry cough
drop and other medicinal berry flavors leading to a
heavy finish. Ole Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
Bodega Catena Zapata 2012 Catena Alta
Chardonnay (Mendoza). Right off the bat
this is one woody Chardonnay. Aromas of toasted
nuts, minerality and baked white fruits feed into a
low-acid, chunky palate. Flavors of melon, papaya
and oak finish creamy, smooth and resiny. Winebow.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
Mascota 2013 La Mascota Chardonnay (Mendoza). Baked apple and butterscotch aromas
convey a sense of ripeness and oak. The palate feels
round and creamy, but not flabby. Melon, apple,
vanilla and caramel flavors are ripe and end with
just enough acidity to maintain balance. Saranty
Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
Bodega Atamisque 2011 Catalpa Single Vineyard Chardonnay (Tupungato). Chunky, oxidized aromas announce a wine that’s past its prime.
A globular, round mouthfeel lacks definition, while
flavors of caramel and oxidized stone fruits finish
woody, toasty and bitter. Wine Bridge Imports.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
Trapiche 2013 Broquel Chardonnay (Mendoza). Grassy, green aromas are dull and fruitless. The palate is citric at first but then it collapses.
Flavors of citrus and tarragon finish bland and with
vegetal leanings. The Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
85
El Enemigo 2013 Chardonnay (Mendoza).
This ripe offering smells of corn, baked apple and oak. It’s creamy and woody in the mouth,
WINEMAG.COM | 63
BUYINGGUIDE
TORRONTÉS
87
Filus 2013 Torrontés (Salta). Peachy aromas
blend with tropical notes to form a good
opening. This is bouncy, fresh and medium in body,
with nectarine, peach and melon flavors. The finish
is mild, plump and not too acidic. Vinum International. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
85
Piattelli 2013 Premium Reserve Torrontés
(Cafayate). Aromas of bath soap and tropical fruits come before a steady but standard palate.
Flavors of powdery lime and green melon finish soft
and straightforward, without much zing or acidity.
Drink immediately. Vinocopia. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
84
Tilia 2013 Torrontés (Mendoza). Generic,
slightly soapy tropical fruit and cured-meat
aromas smell oily. This is not flabby, with soft flavors of melon, papaya and lychee. A mild finish with
some bitterness doesn’t offer much snap or zest.
Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
VIOGNIER
84
Bodega Atamisque 2013 Serbal Viognier
(Tupungato). This smells flowery but also
flabby and oily. The palate has a creamy, tropical
feel to it and flavors of melon, papaya and powdered
sugar. A soft, lightly bitter-tasting finish could use
more pop, scour and balance. Wine Bridge Imports.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $13
SPARKLING WINES
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Cruzat NV Cuvée Réserve Nature Mendoza).
Among Cruzat’s line of sparkling wines, this
nature-style blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40%
Chardonnay is the best. Citrus and nectarine aromas are fruity but not nuanced. This is fresh on the
palate, with orange and green-herb flavors. The finish is citrusy. Elixir Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $23
86
Cruzat NV Cuvée Réserve Extra Brut Mendoza). Citrus and stone-fruit aromas struggle
to hold up, while the palate on this blend of 75%
Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay is solid but soft.
Flavors of apple cider, peach juice and yeasty bread
shift to powdered sugar and white table grapes on
the finish. Elixir Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $23
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Ruca Malen NV Brut (Uco Valley). This pinktinted sparkler is briny-smelling but also
flowery on the bouquet. The palate is more plump
and blocky than defined, while flavors of dry, pithy
64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
green plum and nectarine flavors finish mild, yeasty
and bready. Opici Wines. —M.S.
abv: 12.7%
Price: $25
81
Zuccardi 2012 Vida Orgánica Made with Organic Grapes Chardonnay (Mendoza). Toasty,
bready and oxidized, this lacks freshness. The palate
is low on structure and carbonic foundation, while
flavors of papaya and scrambled eggs are sulfuric. A
yeasty, bready finish seems spent. Winesellers Ltd.
—M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
80
Cruzat NV Clásico Brut (Mendoza). Dusty,
yeasty aromas are faint. This feels flat on
the palate, with a mix of weedy citrus flavors. Green,
herbal notes carry the finish. Tasted twice. Elixir
Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
MALBEC
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SonVida 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). This gorgeous Malbec gets it right. Compact, minerally aromas of blackberry are deep and a bit feral.
The palate is juicy and pulses with ribald berry fruit
and acidity. Blackberry flavors are beefy, salty and
a touch roasted, while the finish is baked, rich and
perfectly oaked. Drink through 2020. Kysela Père et
Fils. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $26
93
El Enemigo 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). Alejandro Vigil’s El Enemigo wines are worth
jumping on if you like full-bodied, robust Argentinean reds. This is typically smoky and dark up front,
with molasses, marzipan and blackberry aromas.
The palate clamps down with tannic grip, while flavors of oak, blackberry, tobacco, vanilla and spices
end briary and with subtlety, which is what makes
this powerful wine so good. Drink through 2019.
Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $30
92
Altocedro 2012 Reserva La Consulta Vineyard
Malbec (Uco Valley). For full review see page
6.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $34
92
Finca Sophenia 2012 Synthesis Malbec (Tupungato). For full review see page 7.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
91
Alma de los Andes 2012 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Smoky aromas of graphite, road tar
and wild berry set up a wiry, full-force palate with a
can’t-miss beam of tartaric acidity. Blackberry and
chocolaty flavors finish forward, with unabashed
freshness and drive. Drink through 2019. W. Direct.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
91
Bodega Catena Zapata 2012 High Mountain
Vines Malbec (Mendoza). For full review see
page 8.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
91
Maal 2012 Imposible Malbec (Mendoza). Exotic, earthy aromas of loamy blackberry, pencil eraser, brown sugar and violet petals lead to a
deep but wiry and clipped-feeling palate. The flavor
profile is oaky, with spiced berry and cardamom
notes leading the charge. A lasting finish is stern
and doesn’t waver. Drink through 2020. Vineyard
Brands. —M.S.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $28
90
Finca Flichman 2013 Misterio Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Supremely fresh plum,
berry and cherry aromas announce an equally pure
palate with ripe, tasty blackberry and cherry flavors
that veer into chocolate, toast and coffee on the finish. This offers an ideal mix of clarity, big flavors
and value. Evaton, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
90
Finca Perdriel 2010 Colección Malbec (Mendoza). Dig into this if you like superripe,
rich Malbec. This is loaded with graphite, smoky
oak, blackberry and baking spice aromas. Expect
maximum ripeness across the palate, meaning bearish flavors of berry fruits, wood and toast. There’s
not a lot of distance or complexity to the finish,
but getting that far is half the fun. TGIC Importers.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
89
Finca El Origen 2012 Gran Reserva Malbec
(Uco Valley). Heavy oak and caramel aromas
are dominant, with suggestions of mocha and sawdust. This is tight and drawing on the palate, with
wood-dominated flavors of resin, clove and distant
berry fruits. This simmers with oak and clove on the
finish, but should clean up with another year or so
in bottle. Drink through 2017. Carolina Wine Brands
USA. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $23
89
Finca El Origen 2011 Gran Reserva Malbec
(Uco Valley). Meaty aromas suggest baked
berry, prune and other ripe fruits. The palate is
almost soupy in its richness, while flavors of molasses, berry and toast are ripe and concentrated.
A roasted-tasting finish features notes of cooked
brown sugar. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $23
88
Adoquin 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Interesting notes of cumin and clove accent berry
and leather aromas on this well-made red. Roasted,
earthy, meaty, spicy berry flavors lead into a mildly burnt, toasty finish with modest oak. Southern
Grapes LLC. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $10
88
Bodega Norton 2013 Colección Varietales
Malbec (Mendoza). Grapy aromas are spicy
and woody. This is a full, packed truckload of a Malbec with earthy, baked flavors of blackberry and
prune. Licorice and a mild blast of bitterness replace the wine’s dark-fruit character on the finish.
TGIC Importers. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $11
88
Finca Flichman 2013 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). This is woodsy, spicy and narrow
in its delivery of berry aromas. The palate is lively
and shows acidic pick up. Full, generous berry flavors fade quickly then finish with a wave of minty,
medicinal wood character. Evaton, Inc. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
88
Primus 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). Roasted,
leathery berry aromas carry a cheesy, gritty,
piercing element. In the mouth, this is solid but
slightly syrupy. Flavors of rooty berry, licorice and
chocolate finish with plenty of oak, spice notes and
heat. Huneeus Vintners. —M.S.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $20
87
Fingerprints 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Leathery, exotic aromas of blueberry and spice are
not too oaky or generic. This is compact and tannic
in the mouth, with structure. Flavors of spicy blueberry and pepper darken up on the finish, which is
ripe and full but also hot in feel. Southern Grapes
LLC. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $10
87
Neu Direction 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). This
is reduced and cedary up front, with hard
black-fruit aromas. The mouthfeel is big but loose,
with strong tannins supporting oaky flavors of
prune, cocoa, coconut and licorice. It finishes minty
and dark, with graphite overtures. Prestige Wine
Group. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
87
Ruca Malen 2011 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza).
Compact, gritty, stalky aromas are hard and
herbal. This feels narrow and short on body, while
flavors of generic berry fruits are a bit green and low
on richness and depth. Oaky vanilla notes drive the
finish. Opici Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $19
87
Rutini 2011 Encuentro Malbec (Mendoza).
Minty, inky, oaky aromas rest on top of basic
berry scents. This is juicy but also reduced in feel.
The flavor profile is superficial, with hints of cassis
and blackberry. The finish is loamy and heavy, with
adequate lift and acidity. Graziano Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
87
San Pedro 2013 Epica Malbec (Mendoza).
Mossy, foresty aromas are rugged and settle
into blackberry. An intense, pushy palate is woody
in feel, with hot, minty, oaky black-fruit flavors that
improve with airing. Heat and toasty notes rise up
on the finish of this bold Mendoza Malbec, a first
from San Pedro (Chile). Shaw-Ross International
Importers. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $11
86
Los Haroldos 2011 Reserva de Familia Malbec (Mendoza). Oak, resin, briary fruit and
pasty notes characterize the bouquet. The palate
is wiry due to pronounced tartaric acidity, but fair
overall. Flavors of rooty berry and brown sugar taste
sweet, while the finish is low in verve. Hildago Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
84
Finca Flichman 2013 Misterio Malbec (Mendoza). Aromas are leafy and scratchy, also
suggesting cement. This feels resiny and creamy in
the mouth. Flavors of woody, generic berry fruits
finish hot and scratchy. Evaton, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $9
83
Bodega Carmine Granata 2010 Tradicional
Oak Cask Malbec (Mendoza). This heavily
oaked wine starts closed; only clove and asphalt
aromas escape. In the mouth, it’s sinewy in feel,
with overly demanding wood-based tannins. The
flavor profile is all burnt oak and clove, while showing barely any fruit. Tarasi Wineries. —M.S.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $15
83
Luminis 2012 Allamand Altamira Malbec
(Mendoza). The nose conjures feral notes
of skunk. A rich, syrupy palate tastes complicated
and uneasy. Flavors of brown sugar and herbal black
cherry are confusing, while the finish is herbal,
earthy and green. Augustan Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
83
Luminis 2012 Perdriel Malbec (Mendoza).
Stewy, murky aromas suggest muddy fruit
and spent coffee. This feels clumsy and grabby,
while the flavor profile is baked and herbal, with not
much vitality. Prune notes and residual murk show
on the finish. Augustan Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
90
Trapiche 2012 Broquel Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendoza). For full review see page 12. Best
Buy.
abv: 14%
88
Bodega Toneles 2011 Reserva Tonel 46 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Baked, earthy
aromas of raisin, fruitcake, ink and oak require
plenty of air to show their best. A jammy, creamy,
oaky palate is home to resiny flavors of vanilla, spice
and berry fruits. The finish is woody, resiny and
pasty, with ripe yet generic flavors in reserve. Icarus
Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
88
Tamarí 2012 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendoza). Floral red-fruit aromas are
modest but clean. The palate is a bit chunky but
overall it’s in good shape. Flavors of berry and cassis
are ordinary, but the flavor profile is perfectly good.
A touch of chocolate and oak rise up on the finish.
Terlato Wines International. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
87
Fingerprints 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Spicy, heady aromas are dark and
draw you in. This value CS is solid and ripe, with
good mouthfeel. Loamy, oaky flavors of black fruits
are standard but tasty, while blatant oak and related chocolate and peppery notes drive the finish.
Southern Grapes LLC. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $10
86
Bodega Norton 2011 Barrel Select Cabernet
Sauvignon (Mendoza). Spicy, jammy aromas of plum and blackberry are dense yet soft. This
feels syrupy and rich, almost sticky, with grabby
oak and blackened flavors of berry fruits that ultimately register as nondescript. A peppery, hot finish
is plump but low on detail. TGIC Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $14
83
Kaiken 2011 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendoza). Gritty, burnt, stalky aromas are
shy on fruit and not that fresh. This is tight and
rough in feel, with peppery, herbal flavors that run
green and low on fruit. More oak and modest berry
flavors carry the finish. TGIC Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $14
Price: $15
89
Lamadrid 2012 Single Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Agrelo). Ripe, concentrated
aromas of cassis and prune set up a rich palate with
spicy black-fruit flavors. A loamy, meaty-tasting
finish isn’t complex but it is generous and jammy.
This is on the cusp of being overripe but overall it
weighs in as a full-flavored fruit bomb with a lot of
positives. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $15
88
plum are spicy and suggestive of crude oil. In the
mouth, this everyday Cab shows juicy balance and
clean lines. Standard black-fruit flavors come with
spice notes and a harmonious, long finish. Southern
Grapes LLC. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $10
Adoquin 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Dark aromas of black cherry and
CABERNET FRANC
91
El Enemigo 2012 Cabernet Franc (Mendoza).
Rubbery, foxy aromas of blueberry, blackberry, cured meats and spice are packed into an ideal
whole. This Cab Franc is rich and flush in feel, with
good acidity and balance. An herbal, saucy element
accents core berry fruit, while the finish is full of
coffee, chocolate, grilled meat and jammy berry flavors. Drink through 2020. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $30
WINEMAG.COM | 65
BUYINGGUIDE
90
Durigutti 2012 Cabernet Franc (Mendoza).
Compact aromas of fresh berry fruits,
herbal notes and oak-based sawdust are lively and
fun. There’s acidic kick to the palate, and overall the
body is healthy and balanced. Blackberry and cured
meat flavors dominate, while the finish is chocolaty
and brings a salt-and-pepper finale. Elixir Wine
Group. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
88
Finca la Celia 2012 Pioneer Reserva Cabernet
Franc (Uco Valley). Leathery black-fruit aromas are not overly expressive but draw you in. This
feels bright and juicy, with jumpy acidity. Flavors of
boysenberry and blackberry finish long and fresh,
with choppy acidity. Buena Cepa Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
TEMPRANILLO
82
Santa Julia 2013 Made with Organic Grapes
Tempranillo (Mendoza). Foxy, candied redfruit aromas settle on raspberry. The palate is
pushy and fiery, with medicinal berry flavors that
taste sweet. Bright acidity makes the finish choppy.
Winesellers Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
81
O. Fournier 2013 Urban Uco Tempranillo (Uco
Valley). Lean, dusty red-fruit aromas are
redolent of nail polish. A grabby palate is chunky
and home to syrupy, cloying flavors of medicinal red
fruits. Burnt, rubbery notes characterize the finish.
The Country Vintner-Craft and Estate. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
RED BLENDS
94
Finca El Origen 2010 PHI Single Vineyard
(Uco Valley). For full review see page 3. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $70
93
Bodega Catena Zapata 2010 Nicolás Catena
Zapata (Mendoza). For full review see page
4. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14%
Price: $135
93
Finca Flichman 2012 Dedicado (Mendoza).
Heady, ripe black-fruit aromas are accented
by coconut, graphite and mineral notes. This is a
powerful yet classy blend of Malbec along with 25%
Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Syrah. The flavor profile is toasty and oaky, with tons of vanilla, coconut,
licorice and cardamom accenting potent berry and
cassis flavors. The finish is deep, ripe and delicious.
Drink through 2020. Evaton, Inc. Editors’ Choice.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
92
Durigutti 2012 Red (Mendoza). Smoky, inky
aromas of ripe black fruits, caramel and
pencil eraser set up a creamy, chewy palate with
66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
flavors of ripe blackberry, cardamom and toffee.
An oaky but smooth finish is elevated and not at all
hard or soupy. Everything about this blended red
comes across right. Drink through 2017. Elixir Wine
Group. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
92
Ruca Malen 2010 Kinien de Don Raúl (Mendoza). Balsamic, dark-berry aromas come
with notes of crushed minerals, coconut, resiny oak
and chocolate. In the mouth, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Petit Verdot is tight,
focused and elegant. Spicy, cedary flavors of tobacco and baked black fruits finish long, with lasting touches of tobacco and fig. Drink through 2020.
Opici Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $68
ish condenses in juicy, classy fashion. Drink through
2019. The Country Vintner-Craft and Estate. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $28
90
Vistalba 2012 Corte C Estate Bottled (Mendoza). For full review see page 11. Wine
Spoken Here.
abv: 15%
Price: $18
89
La Posta 2012 Tinto (Mendoza). Earthy,
herbal, lightly leafy aromas blend with
boysenberry and exotic spice notes. This Malbecled blend is jammy and thick on the palate, with
blueberry, oregano and cured-meat flavors. A solid
finish holds onto the wine’s core fruit and herbal
notes. Vine Connections. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
91
Clos de Chacras 2010 Gran Estirpe (Mendoza).
This Malbec-led blend is quite oaky, thus
maple, molasses and chocolate aromas ride high
alongside blackberry and mild floral notes. In the
mouth, this is quasi-syrupy and very rich. Flavors
of baked black fruits and brown sugar finish sticky,
with chunky weight. Drink through 2018. IBESC
Wine Distributor. —M.S.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $45
91
Finca Flichman 2012 Paisaje de Barrancas
(Mendoza). Hulking, oaky aromas include
spice, sandalwood and loads of ripe black fruit.
This is massive in the mouth but sturdy and not
overbearing. Flavors of baked berry and cassis are
meaty, while the finish offers up licorice, spice and
tons of density and concentration. Drink through
2019. Evaton, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
91
Finca Flichman 2012 Paisaje de Tupungato
(Mendoza). Initially this Malbec-led blend is
reduced, but with airing minerality and concentrated aromas of jammy berry fruits and latex win out.
This is packed, ripe and stacked on the palate. Flavors of ripe black fruits, licorice, pepper and berry
preserves finish spicy, peppery and with a note of
chocolate. Drink through 2020. Evaton, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
91
Septima 2010 Gran Reserva (Mendoza). A
mixture of coconut, cedar and marzipan
scents along with gritty, briary black-fruit aromas
precedes a lively palate with weight, power and
balance. Flavors of berry, plum and cassis are bold,
oaky and chocolaty, while the finish hits hard with
mocha, caramel and vanilla notes offset by bright
acidity. Drink through 2018. Aveniù Brands, Inc.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
90
O. Fournier 2010 B Crux (Uco Valley). Everything about this Tempranillo-led blend
rings true. It’s full and flush on the nose, with clean
berry and snappy tomato and spice notes. The
mouthfeel is wiry and bold, with darts of acidity.
Flavors span the red-berry spectrum, while the fin-
CALIFORNIA
VINTAGE SPARKLING WINES
97
Roederer Estate 2006 L’Ermitage (Anderson
Valley). All the benefits of maturity come
through in this deliciously complex flagship sparkling wine of the French-owned estate. It shows
very minute, slow-rising bubbles and a beautiful bouquet of ginger, cinnamon, cherry and fresh
croissants. The flavors are layered, intricate, subtle
but somehow rich. A lush and seemingly soft texture is supported by fresh acidity that encourages
a long and delicate finish. Mature, but not old, it
should be great through 2020 or longer. Cellar Selection. —J.G.
abv: 12.6%
Price: $48
96
Roederer Estate 2006 L’Ermitage Rose (Anderson Valley). Bubbly doesn’t get much
better than this elegant, grand and sumptuous rosé.
The color is pale salmon, while aromas showcase
an exotic blend of spices and flowers. The flavor is
vivid and enticing but not as simple as just saying
cherries and ginger. Though this is dry, it’s so mature and rich that it almost tastes sweet. A wonderful, ginger-cookie flavor lingers a long time on the
finish. This will improve in a cool cellar through at
least 2020. Cellar Selection. —J.G.
abv: 12.6%
Price: $65
95
Iron Horse 2010 Wedding Cuvée (Green Valley). Pinkish-gold in color, this lovely cuvée
is a blend of 74% Pinot Noir and 26% Chardonnay, the winery’s take on a Blanc de Noirs. Fruity
in peach, raspberry and blood orange, it is multifaceted and complex, dry and elegant with a long
finish that leans herbal, the acidity dialed perfectly
right, gentle on the palate and memorable. Editors’
Choice. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $42
95
Schramsberg 2006 J. Schram (North Coast).
For full review see page 3. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12.2%
Price: $110
94
Iron Horse 2009 Brut X (Green Valley). This
vintage of X is finished with a blend of still
Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, skipping the added
sugar that would have come with a traditional dosage. It is thus steely and sublime, clean, crisp and
linear in dry flavors of red apple, cherry and creamy,
nutty complexity. The acidity is well-toned and lingering on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50
94
Iron Horse 2009 Classic Vintage Brut (Green
Valley). An elegant mixture of 74% Pinot
Noir and 26% Chardonnay, this classic Brut is aged
four years en triage and was last disgorged on July
18, 2014. The dosage includes the winery’s Thomas
Road Pinot Noir. Golden in color, it is inviting in
complex layers of baked apple, pear, honey and graham cracker while offering a light, sophisticated feel
on the palate. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
94
Iron Horse 2009 Ocean Reserve Blanc de
Blancs (Green Valley). For the winery’s fifth
vintage of this Blanc de Blancs, $4 of every bottle
sold goes to support National Geographic’s Ocean
Initiative. It’s worth buying most of all for the taste,
a rich, measured and dry expression of apple, pear
and lime with depth and an adornment of floral
honeysuckle aromas. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $45
93
Goat Bubbles 2011 Sierra Madre Vineyard
Crémant (Santa Maria Valley). Vigorous
bubbles present a Pinot Noir-like nose of crushed
rocks, Indian spice and sour earth on one of the best
Central Coast sparklers of the vintage. The intriguing flavors center on pluot and nectarine flesh, with
fringes of salinity, lemon juice, cardamom and even
dashes of curry. —M.K.
abv: 12.6%
Price: $38
93
Schramsberg 2010 Brut Rosé (North Coast).
For full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $43
93
Schramsberg 2010 Crémant Demi-Sec (Napa
Valley). For full review see page 5. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $39
92
Chandon 2003 étoile Tête de Cuveé (NapaSonoma). Seven years on lees, the winery’s
top cuveé, in this case vintage designated, offers
substantial aromas of pear, almond and hazelnut,
with an intensity of acidity and silky texture to
round it out. From 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, this stunner provides an excellent chance
to taste an older sparkler from Napa and Sonoma
grapes. —V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $100
92
Equinox 1998 Blanc De Blanc (Santa Cruz
Mountains). Golden yellow in color, this
16-year-old sparkler presents uniquely pleasant
aromas of corn bread, chamomile and yellow flow-
ers. It’s not powerfully effervescent, but manages to
strike up a rich bubbly cream on the palate, with
flavors of corn tortilla and Meyer lemon making for
memorable sipping. —M.K.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $100
sparkler with aromas of yellow flowers, fresh picked
pears and pressed apples. It explodes on the palate
with lemon zest followed by a cooked apple soda,
with a touch of tannic tartness on the end. —M.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $68
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91
Goat Bubbles 2012 Rosé Solomon Hills Vineyard (Santa Maria Valley). A stunning pink
sparkler from one of the appellation’s premier and
westernmost properties, this offers aromas of fresh
squeezed strawberries with lime and salt spread
across hot sourdough bread. The bubbles are very
fine, dancing across the tongue with vigor, evolving
into a creamy effervescence amidst flavors of sour
orange, yeast and chalk —M.K.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $40
92
Inman Family 2012 OGV Estate Brut Rosé
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Made in
a méthode Champenoise style, this is crafted from
estate-grown fruit, the color crimson pink, the flavors high-toned strawberry and fresh citrus. Light
on its feet and dry, it features bubbles that form a
rich mousse counterpointed by crisp natural acidity. On the finish is the suggestion of fennel. —V.B.
abv: 12%
Price: $56
92
Iron Horse 2009 Russian Cuvée (Green Valley). Made to commemorate the sparkling
wine the winery produced for the Reagan-Gorbachev Summit Meetings in the 1980s, this blends
74% Pinot Noir and 26% Chardonnay in a richer
style, still dry, and just recently disgorged in July
2014. Complex and creamy, it offers a seductive
nose of ripe apple and custard, the flavors following
through in a medium-weight, mellowed way. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $38
92
Laetitia 2010 Cuvée M Sparkling Wine (Arroyo Grande Valley). For full review see page
7.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
Chandon 2008 Vintage Brut (Mount Veeder).
Predominantly crafted from Chardonnay, this
features a fistful of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier to
add silky smooth layers of texture and a seductively
elegant body. It’s marked by a long finish and spiciness. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $45
91
Gloria Ferrer 2006 Royal Cuvée (Carneros).
Yeasty and woody after lengthy time in the
bottle, this is a complex cuvée that’s dry and savory
more than sweet. Secondary flavors of apple and
pear are crisp and developed. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $37
91
Laetitia 2009 Brut Coquard Sparkling Wine
(Arroyo Grande Valley). For full review see
page 9.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
91
Laetitia 2011 Brut de Blancs (Arroyo Grande
Valley). A laser-focused nose of lime zest,
limestone and a hint of orange blossom characterize this very refreshing sparkler. The bubbles dance
across the tongue with lean, not lush flavors of orange peel and squeezed citrus. —M.K.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
91
Schramsberg 2010 Blanc de Noirs (North
Coast). Delicate flavors of baking spices like
cinnamon, allspice and ginger light up this very dry,
firm-textured bubbly. Vivid acidity keeps it light
and lively. Plenty of citrus and green apple notes
and a refreshing dryness make the mouth water.
—J.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
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90
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90
Mumm Napa 2009 Devaux Ranch (Napa
Valley). This dry, savory, small-production
sparkler has deep layers of fresh-baked brioche and
orange blossom. The golden yellow color provides a
sign of its longer evolution in bottle. The finish is
long and lingering, making this a memorable wine.
—V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $42
Schramsberg 2011 Blanc de Blancs Brut
(North Coast). Bracing and bright, this
shows definite Chardonnay characteristics, such as
a buttery, apple pie aroma and vivid crisp apple and
lemon flavors. Nothing is overblown, though, so it
retains finesse. This will be great as an apéritif and
even better with seafood after sitting down at the
table. —J.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $38
Brewer-Clifton 2011 3D Sparkling Chardonnay
(Sta. Rita Hills). Sta. Rita Hills stars Greg
Brewer and Steve Clifton deliver a golden-hued
Chandon 2008 Vintage Brut (Carneros). Voluptuous mousse is wrapped in apple and
pear-laced acidity, a burst of wild strawberry and
peach playing into the mix to combine for a textured
and interesting sparkling wine. The blend is 71%
Pinot Noir with 26% Chardonnay and 3% Pinot
Meunier. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $45
Chandon 2004 étoile Tête de Cuvée (Sonoma-Napa). For the 2004 vintage, the
winery blended 61% Chardonnay with 34% Pinot
Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier for this floral, lively
and expansive Tête de Cuvée. The flavors lean toward lemon chiffon and meringue amid zippy acidity and a bright finish. —V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $80
Gloria Ferrer 2010 Late Disgorged Blanc de
Blancs (Carneros). Intoxicating in vanilla
and peach, the aromas telegraphing honeysuckle
and anise, this balanced, dry vintage Brut from
WINEMAG.COM | 67
BUYINGGUIDE
100% Chardonnay grapes is soft, food-friendly and
easy to drink. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $40
90
Mumm Napa 2008 DVX Rosé (Napa Valley).
Pretty peach in color, this 50-50 sparkling
blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with a small
percentage of the Pinot added to the blend before
secondary fermentation, is a light, high-toned,
flinty bubbly rich in strawberry aromas and a savory, herbal streak. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $70
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Equinox 2001 Blanc De Blanc (Santa Cruz
Mountains). This wine doesn’t reveal much
age at all, with fresh golden pear and tangerine
rind aromas punched up with a hint of sour yeast.
The yeast dominates the palate, though orange and
rounded melon tones add to the full experience.
—M.K.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $75
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Fiddlehead Cellars 2010 Seven Hundred
Twenty Eight Bubbles Blanc De Noir (Sta.
Rita Hills). There’s a touch of tuberose on the nose
of this sparkling wine from Kathy Joseph’s estate,
located at mile marker 728 Santa Rosa Road. Green
apples carry the palate from front to back, spiced up
with a bit of salinity. —M.K.
abv: 11%
Price: $60
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Laetitia 2011 Brut Rose (Arroyo Grande Valley). For a pink sparkler, there’s not a lot of
fruit on the nose, which is carried by crisp yeastiness instead. There are lovely bubbles on the palate,
full of crisp red apple and lemon citrus flavors that
enliven all of the senses. This is a perfect apéritif
wine. —M.K.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
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Mumm Napa 2009 Blanc de Blancs (Napa
Valley). Brilliant golden hay in color, this is
a dry, intense sparkler, made from 75% Chardonnay
and 25% Pinot Gris. It offers complex highlights of
lemon and apple on the palate with plenty of minerality. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $42
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Laetitia 2011 Brut de Noirs Méthode Champenoise (Arroyo Grande Valley). Faint whiffs
of green apple sit atop chalk, baking soda and yeast
on this crisp sparkler from a winery founded for
making bubbly in 1982. The Granny Smith green
apples carry the palate, which also offers yeastiness
on the finish and a decent amount of tannic grip.
—M.K.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
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Lucas & Lewellen 2012 Brut Sparkling Wine
(Santa Barbara County). Slightly pale pink
in color, this 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay
sparkling wine offers rosé-like aromas, dominated
by watermelon water. The vibrant bubbles release
bubblegum ester, lime and melon on the palate,
making for an excellent brunch wine. —M.K.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
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Mumm Napa 2007 DVX (Napa Valley). A 5050 sparking blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes given more time in bottle, the DVX
is light golden in color. Yeasty on the nose and dry
on the palate, it offers a flurry of rich, full-bodied
apple and wild berry layered atop a thick layer of
minerality. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $60
NONVINTAGE SPARKLING
WINES
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Chandon NV Brut Reserve Pinot Noir Rosé
(Sonoma-Napa). Floral and inviting, this
features 24% Chardonnay in an otherwise Pinot
Noir-based sparkler. The two combine for an inviting nose of fresh wild strawberry jam amidst a
smooth, silky texture and creamy mousse. The acidity is sharp and generous. —V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
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Mumm Napa NV Brut Rosé (Napa Valley). A
hearty 80% Pinot Noir dominates in this
sparkler, rounded out with 20% Chardonnay. With
a pink-salmon hue, it offers peach and wild strawberry aromas followed by similar, medium-bodied
flavors, with the addition of succulent plum. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $24
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Mumm Napa NV Cuvée M (Napa Valley). An
unusual blend of 48% Chardonnay, 43% Pinot Noir, 6% Pinot Gris and 3% Pinot Meunier, this
is pale sunflower-yellow, with a thick mousse and
well-developed layers of orange blossom, lemon and
pear. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
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Rock Wall 2013 Brut (California). A sense
of richness comes with the creamy flavors
in this smooth, light-bodied Chardonnay-like bubbly. The wine starts with a surprising marshmallow
aroma, then goes to pear and ripe apple flavors. It is
balanced toward the soft, rather than crisp, side of
the scale. —J.G.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $25
Equinox 2001 Brut Reserve (Santa Cruz
Mountains). Nine years in tirage gives this
75% Chardonnay/25% Pinot Noir sparkler a deeply golden hue as well as aged aromas of hazelnut,
caramelized apple and fermenting stone fruit. Apple juice dominates the oxidized flavor profile, with
heavy duty yeast and lemon pith along for the curious, intriguing ride. —M.K.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $60
Scharffenberger NV Brut Excellence (Mendocino County). Beautifully balanced between
maturity and freshness, this elegant bubbly combines appetizing cherry, almond and ginger flavors
with a suave texture and long finish. It achieves a
level of personality and sophistication beyond simple fruitiness. —J.G.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
Breathless NV Brut (North Coast). For full
review see page 10.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
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Gloria Ferrer NV Blanc de Noirs (Carneros).
For full review see page 11.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
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Chandon 2007 Late Disgorged Vintage Brut
(Yountville). From 75% Pinot Noir and
25% Chardonnay, the tirage on this sparkling brut
took place in 2008, the late-disgorgement in October 2013. The time in bottle has given it a honeybaked edge, sensibly dry, with highlights of baked
apple and dried apricot. —V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
Goat Bubbles 2011 Blanc de Blancs Sierra
Madre Vineyard (Santa Maria Valley). This
yeast bomber from one of the first serious sparkling
projects in Santa Barbara jumps at the nose with
warm bread and poached pears. On the slightly sour
palate, the roundness of yellow melon precedes the
tang of fermenting orange juice. —M.K.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $40
68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
Yorkville Cellars 2011 Estate Grown Cuvee
Brut (Yorkville Highlands). This is refreshing
and quite dry, with fragrant fruit cocktail aromas
and subtle, spare flavors that suggest it would be a
great oyster wine. Made from 51% Sémillon along
with other grapes it’s interesting enough to serve
during dinner as well as an apéritif. —J.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $36
Clos La Chance 2010 Amber’s Cuvee (Santa
Cruz Mountains). A faint hint of pink shines
on this sparkler named after the winery owners’
dog. Aromas of fresh melon and slight peach lead to
a faint cherry note upon sipping and creamy mouthfeel, followed by plum skin tartness and a yeasty,
sour bitterness. —M.K.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $40
Mumm Napa NV Blanc de Blancs (Napa Valley). Made from 90% Chardonnay, the
remainder Pinot Gris, this light-golden sparkler is
well-composed, with a maturity on the palate leaning towards flavors of almond and anise. Floral and
creamy, it has buoyant acidity that gives an impressive lift. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
Roederer Estate NV Brut Rose (Anderson
Valley). This is a mouthfilling, plush-textured, copper colored bubbly with hints of cherry
and raspberry in the ripe flavors, firm acidity to
balance them and tiny bubbles to keep it all lively.
Made with 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay,
it finishes with a slightly sweet sensation. —J.G.
abv: 12%
Price: $29
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Bodkin NV Extra Dry Cuvee Januariis Blanc de
Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). A slightly
different flavor spectrum makes this pale-colored,
lean and crisp sparkling wine stand out. With notes
of honeydew melon and cucumber, and great balance from juicy acidity, it tastes slightly sweet and
as refreshing as those fruit descriptors would suggest. —J.G.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $22
cherry and white peach flavors, a smooth effervescence, crisp acidity and a lingering finish. —J.G.
abv: 12.6%
Price: $26
disappearing magically on the palate, but not before
showing light acidity and a flash of guava. —M.K.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
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Breathless NV Blanc de Noirs (Sonoma County). Made entirely from Pinot Noir grapes,
this méthode Champenoise sparkler is golden peach
in color with attractive aromas and flavors of orange
blossom, hazelnut, orange peel and a slight sense of
garden herbs. Dry, it makes for a nice wine on its
own or in spritzers. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
Chandon NV Brut Classic (California). A
blend of 68% Chardonnay and 12% Pinot
Noir from sundry Northern California sites, this is a
dry, citrusy and easy-drinking sparkling wine, ideal
for special get togethers or as an opener to the night.
Fresh pear and citrus intermingle throughout bright
acidity and a lingering finish. —V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
Equinox NV Blanc de Blanc (Monterey). Aromas of toast, green apple and underripe
pear waft from this straight-ahead bubbly from a
sparkling-focused winery on the Westside of Santa
Cruz. Golden apple, lemon-lime and yeastiness carry the palate, with a touch of lemon cream. —M.K.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
Laetitia NV Brut Cuvee (Arroyo Grande Valley). This blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
and Pinot Blanc presents a very pretty nose of nectarine, yeast and chalk. The stone fruit flavors persist on the palate, kicked up by white flowers and
lime juice. —M.K.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
Scharffenberger NV Excellence Rosé (Mendocino). A rounded texture, layered flavors
of raspberry and baking spices and an almost sweet
finish make this rosé very tempting. It strikes a
good balance between acidity, fruit flavor and effervescence. Made from 57% Pinot Noir and 43%
Chardonnay. —J.G.
abv: 12%
Price: $23
McFadden Vineyard NV Cuvee Brut Rosé
(Potter Valley). Ripe fruit flavors and an
easy but refined foamy texture make this light salmon-colored bubbly taste generous, complete, fruity
and fresh. A touch of sweetness in the cherry and
berry flavors keep the impression smooth and the
flavors fruity through the finish. —J.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $32
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Mirabelle NV Brut (California). A brassy
color and generous fruit flavors define this
rich, dry and sophisticated bubbly. It has vivid
Mumm Napa NV Brut Prestige (Napa Valley).
Mostly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this
blend includes smaller percentages of Pinot Meunier and Pinot Gris as well. Light golden in color, it’s a
zingy, long-lingering taste of citrus and berry that’s
creamy on the palate with a floral nose. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
Roederer Estate NV Brut (Anderson Valley).
This bubbly brings a rich buttery Chardonnay flavor, smooth texture, lively effervescence and
rather full body. It smells like toast and butter, and
tastes ripe and appley. Intense buttery flavors stay
with you on the aftertaste. —J.G.
abv: 12%
Price: $24
Breathless NV Brut Rose (North Coast). A
brilliant copper color and earthy, lightly
fruity flavors distinguish this dry-style, elegant
sparkling wine made from 60% Pinot Noir and
40% Chardonnay. It does have tasty raspberry and
lemon notes, but it goes more to spicy complexity
than pure fruitiness —J.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $32
Chandon NV Blanc de Noirs (California).
This combines 95% Pinot Noir with 4%
Chardonnay and 1% Pinot Meunier in a just slightly sweet, rounded taste of fresh berries and lush,
somewhat piquant acidity. —V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
Gloria Ferrer NV Sonoma Brut (Sonoma
County). From almost 92% Pinot Noir with
the remainder Chardonnay, this is a dry, elegant,
fairly priced sparkling wine tasting of ripe stone
fruit. The finish ends sweet, begging for spicy food
to complement. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
Mirabelle NV Brut Rose (California). A pinktinged copper color and a pleasing blend of
flavors make this sparkling wine from Schramsberg
easy to enjoy. The aromas suggest cherries and cinnamon, the flavor is like tart raspberry and the texture is smooth with fine bubbles. —J.G.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $28
Mumm Napa NV Brut Reserve Rosé (Napa
Valley). This sparkling mix of two-thirds
Pinot Noir and one-third Chardonnay is a pretty
peach color. Voluptuous on the palate, it features
flavors of peach and rhubarb that exotically intermingle along a tingling touch of sweetness. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $39
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Summerland NV Blanc de Noir (North Coast).
A dainty nose of sliced pears, squeezed
lemon and slowly emergent guava characterizes this
sparkling wine, made in Santa Barbara from Northern California fruit. The bubbles are quite foamy,
Fontes & Phillips NV ChamPanky (North
Coast). Bright pink in the glass, this wine
exhibits a strong rosé character on the nose, with
bubblegum prominent. It’s a very fruit-forward
sparkler on the palate, with orange blossom, freshsqueezed lime and hints of cotton candy, minus the
sweetness. —M.K.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $40
Gloria Ferrer NV Va de Vi (Sonoma County).
This blends 89% Pinot Noir with 8%
Chardonnay and 3% Moscato for a sweeter, fuller
mouthfeel than many of this producer’s other sparkling wines, making it round, soft and easy to drink,
steeped in fresh vanilla bean. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
Mumm Napa NV Brut Reserve (Napa Valley).
There is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay in this sparkling Brut. Golden-apple in color, it
offers flavors and aromas that follow suit, rich in
ripe apple, hazelnut and chestnut with a layering of
natural sweetness on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $39
Saint Gregory NV Brut Blanc de Blancs (Potter
Valley). A broad, soft, bubbly texture backed
by fresh fruit flavors and hints of butter make this
Chardonnay-based sparkling wine very tasty and
satisfying. In addition, 20% of Pinot Blanc went
into the base wine, which was then bottle-fermented. —J.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $40
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Uptick Vineyards NV Sparkling Brut (North
Coast). For full review see page 12.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
STILL ROSÉS
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Sandhi 2013 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita
Hills). Lush, fruit-forward aromas of watermelon pudding and bubblegum make for a pink
wine that engages on many levels. Ripe, soft fruit
flavors match well with the almost gritty acidity.
A delicious and refreshing sleection to drink now.
—M.K.
abv: NA
Price: $38
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Fort Ross 2013 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Fort RossSeaview). A saignée-method rosé given
three months in neutral French oak, this wine is
dark raspberry in color. Vibrant and fresh, it offers
swirls of spicy herb and wild strawberry, a hint of
watermelon adding to its mouthwatering quality.
Dry and savory, it also has some meat on its bones,
a lovely go-to for meals of all kinds. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
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Gary Farrell 2013 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). This structured rosé packs a
punch in tannins at first, but is balanced and dry.
Refreshing bursts of wild berries and savory herb
lead to a smooth and exotic finish. The subtle power
reflects the vintage and Green Valley-sourced vineyards. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
VML 2013 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). Tingling in acidity, this substantially juicy, full-bodied rosé is made from ripe fruit
that leans toward flavors of strawberries and Russian River Valley Pinot’s classic tell-tale of cherries.
The aromas are floral; think Lady Day gardenia.
—V.B.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $20
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Festival and Feast 2013 Rosé of Pinot Noir
(Sonoma County). Jolly Rancher-red in color, there’s high-toned grapefruit and watermelon in
this Rosé. Layers of tropical juiciness on the back of
the tongue and a nice finish make this a refreshing
wine before, during or after dinner. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $24
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MacPhail 2013 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). Many vineyards were sourced for
this dry rosé, made from a selection of Pinot Noir
clones. Beautifully pale rose petal color, its aromas
and flavors lean herbal before fresh notes of raspberry and strawberry set in. The finish is intense.
—V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
Dutton-Goldfield 2012 Azaya Ranch Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Marin County). A distinctive, elegant and exotic Pinot Noir that wins you over with
fruit character and a vibrant mouthfeel rather than
flashy oak. It is deeply colored, medium-bodied, has
saturated flavors of black cherry and boysenberry,
and hints of forest floor and tea leaves. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $58
FEL 2012 Spiritus Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Very delicious in a lavish but controlled way. It has a deep color, toasty oak aromas,
lots of depth and texture along with richness and
complexity in fruit flavor. It’s a full-bodied wine but
carries it well due to good acidity and refined, supportive tannins. —J.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $90
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Foxen 2012 Block 43 Bien Nacido Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Violet, root
bark, sage and cherry blend for perhaps the best
Foxen Pinot Noir of the vintage. There’s bright acidity but also plush juice from really ripe raspberry
and black cherry, with amazing black pepper spice
as well. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $58
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Joseph Phelps 2012 Quarter Moon Vineyard
Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $75
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Churchill Cellars 2013 Festival and Feast
Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sonoma County).
Copper-red in color, this is soft and round. Bright
streaks of citrus throughout the beginning and midpalate lead to a finish with a taste of ripe, sweet berries. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $24
Ken Brown 2011 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills).
Ken Brown, who started making Santa
Barbara County wine in the 1970s, delivers a deep
and earthy appellation blend, with heavily spiced
aromas of mashed cloves, black cherry, blackberry
and lava rock. The flavor arc begins with boisterous fruit, followed by licorice on the midpalate and
a peppery finish, all laid across a velvety texture.
—M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $42
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Rock Wall 2013 Grenache Rosé (Yolo County). A light, bright, pink-orange color and
cherry-candy flavors make this a kind of Pop Rock
bubbly. It has good refreshing acidity, fine bubbles
and just a hint of sweetness. Party on! —J.G.
abv: 11%
Price: $22
PINOT NOIR
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Lynmar 2012 Freestone Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). From an increasingly intriguing sub-region of the larger Russian River Valley,
Freestone is cold and barely planted, but when it
works, it works. This Pinot is caressed in floral aromas and juicy red cherry, the wine fresh and alive, a
back layer of black tea, savory herb and exotic spice
meshing in magical ways. The majority of the grapes
came from the Sexton Vineyard; the rest from Umino and Jenkins. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $60
70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
Lynmar 2012 Jenkins Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). This fresh, supple
Pinot comes from a cool Russian River Valley site
overlapping the Sonoma Coast AVA. Jenkins sits
above the fog line and is rich in Goldridge soils.
The wine is lightly mushroomy in earth, and a keen
streak of exotic spiciness kicks in convincingly on
the finish, after intense and complicated layers of
red cherry, raspberry and lavender. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $70
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Lynmar 2012 Lynn’s Blend Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Named for the winery’s
founder and co-owner, Lynn’s is wound tightly at
first. The 25% whole cluster fermentation lends
brooding, dark blue and black berry flavors to the
palate, and concentrated layers of exotic Asian
spice. The finish leans toward black pepper, ripe
tannin and caramelized oak. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $70
Lynmar 2012 Terra de Promissio Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). From the windy howls
of what’s known locally as the Petaluma Gap, this
Pinot reflects its surroundings, subtle in aromas of
rose petal and buoyant in wild strawberry, black tea
and coastal-kissed acidity. Enjoy from 2017–2021.
Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $70
Mooney Family 2012 Boekenoogen Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). For full
review see page 4.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $68
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Saintsbury 2012 Cerise Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Anderson Valley). The bright personality of Pinot comes out beautifully in this balanced,
polished, medium-bodied and flavorful version. It
smells like cinnamon and red cherries and tastes
tangy but smooth textured. The delicious blend of
fruit and spice lingers on the finish. Editors’ Choice.
—J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $47
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Summerland 2010 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Barnyard aromas make
a positive showing on this single-vineyard wine,
with sour yeast, pungent berries and fired orange
rinds. It’s very full on the palate, with lusciously
sanguine flavors mixing up with cinnamon and allspice against a blackberry backbone. Very complex.
—M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $50
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Blackjack 2010 Burning Creek Vineyard Special Selection Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). A
rare look at this single vineyard reveals a savory
and spice-driven character, powered by burnt orange and cranberry fruit that’s lifted by cardamom,
chopped Italian herbs and potpourri tea. It’s rich
with flavors of licorice, pepper, black tea and other
very dark spices, arcing through black olive in the
midpalate toward tart, tannic cranberry on the finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $65
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Buena Vista 2012 Ida’s Selection Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). This is an old-worldstyle Pinot Noir that many a Francophile will love.
Adorned in spice, earth and herbs, it is light in color
and texture, with a deft approach to oak. Dark cherry fruit abounds around a silky, sublime mouthfeel.
Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $45
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Byron 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley).
For full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
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Chamisal Vineyards 2012 Estate Bottled Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). For full review see
page 4.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $40
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Chanamé 2012 Angel Camp and Charles Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This Pinot Noir has a quiet confidence, subtle fruit flavors,
lively texture and lingering finish. It’s quiet because
it’s not overtly oaky, although it was aged in 50%
new French oak, and confident because it tastes ripe
but not bold. It balances on the soft side, but has
enough tannin and acidity for great structure. —J.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $45
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Dunstan 2011 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). From a newer planting of the
Durell Vineyard called the Ranch House Block, this
Pinot is rocking in deep, delicious baked strawberry
and raspberry fruit, fruity, lush and spicy yet balanced and tempting. The texture is satisfyingly velvety and complete. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
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FEL 2012 Ferrrington Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Anderson Valley). This medium-bodied Pinot Noir shows tasty varietal characteristics such
as complex aromas of tea, plums and forest floor,
almost-sweet cherry flavors, refreshing acidity,
moderate tannins and a lingering finish. It earns its
points with charm rather than weight. —J.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $65
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Joseph Phelps 2012 Pastorale Vineyard Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For
full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $75
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Lynmar 2012 Monastery Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). For full review see page 5.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $70
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Lynmar 2012 Quail Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). For full review see
page 5.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $60
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Lynmar 2012 Quail Hill Vineyard Bliss Block
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This offering comes from a two-acre parcel of Quail Hill Vineyard, the coolest pocket of the site. Earthy, herbal
and savory, it’s seamless in black cherry, clove and
plum. A bite of acidity enlivens the palate before a
finish of tannin and oak. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $70
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Lynmar 2012 Quail Hill Vineyard Summit Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 5.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $70
and nutmeg as well. The slate-led, mineral-driven
palate offers both acidity and tannic structure, with
Bing cherry, ripe cranberries and a well executed
vanilla-laced finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $58
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Pali 2012 Rancho La Vina Pinot Noir (Sta.
Rita Hills). A rounded red fruit nose of
pomegranate gets savory help from menthol, cinnamon and vanilla on this single clone 115 wine
from the southern edge of the appellation. Dried
orange rinds and smoked plums lead the broad palate, which picks up black pepper, brown spice and
lingering sour cherry on the finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $56
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Sarah’s Vineyard 2011 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita
Hills). This wine comes from a Santa Clara
Valley winery founded in 1978. Notes of graphite,
rich cranberry syrup, wet bay leaves and pipe tobacco lead the nose, followed by flavors of blackberry, citrus rind, cigar and crushed spices, presented
with tantalizing acidity. —M.K.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $40
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Sextant 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). For full review see page 5.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
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FEL 2012 Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see page 4.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $65
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Fess Parker 2012 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Santa Maria Valley). For full review see
page 4.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $55
Foxen 2012 Julia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa
Maria Valley). Cranberry and clove swirl into
a decadently spiced nose on this single-vineyard expression from veteran winemakers Dick Dore and
Billy Wathen. The wine delivers more complexity on
the palate, with touches of raspberry, allspice and
cardamon. —M.K.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $62
Foxen 2012 Melville Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta.
Rita Hills). There’s something transformative about Foxen’s winemaking. This smells of smoldering clove cigarettes, set against concentrated
pomegranate and cranberry juice. The flavor follow
an impressive arc, with Bing and sour cherry sliding into savory Italian herbs. It ends with a tonguetickling wash of light yet coating tannins and bright
acidity. —M.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $64
93
J. Lohr 2012 Fog’s Reach Pinot Noir (Arroyo
Seco). This savory Pinot Noir features aromas of blistered tomatoes, Italian herbs, Dr. Pepper
and strawberries stewed with anise. Oregano and
rosemary give herbal backbone to the pomegranate
fruit flavors, all culminating in a very sanguine finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.57%
Price: $35
Mansfield-Dunne 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Lighter in color, this boasts a
brilliant nose of Indian spices, violet and black sage
with a cherry-vanilla backbone. Light and bright on
the palate, it plays to the cherry side of Pinot Noir,
with a bit of cinnamon and graham cracker as well.
Only 285 cases. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $36
Manzoni 2012 Home Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Santa Lucia Highlands). Deeply funky aromas of salted rhubarb and beets, grilled meats, anise and hot tar greet the nose on this fascinating
Pinot Noir. Sanguine, bloody flavors evolve down a
line of licorice and slate toward raspberry, with a bit
of grilled meat at the very end. —M.K.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $35
Masút 2012 Block 6 Pinot Noir (Mendocino
County). Sometimes a wine has such a distinct individual personality that it stands out from
the crowd, and this focused Pinot fits that description. There is a light touch of sophisticated, subtly
spicy French oak but a crystal-clear raspberry fruit
character energizes the aromas and flavors. It is medium-to-full bodied, but not at all heavy. It’s hard to
imagine tiring of this. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $60
93
Mooney Family 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia
Highlands). For full review see page 5.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $52
93
Morgan 2012 Double L Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Santa Lucia Highlands). There are sanguine elements of blood and iron on the nose of this
darkly colored Pinot Noir, but ripe cherries, cola
Shane Wines 2012 The Charm Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). A big, lovable Pinot
Noir that is quite ripe and full of exotic fruit flavors
that go beyond cherry to boysenberry and blackberry. Full-bodied, with a rounded texture and firm
tannins, it is mouthfilling, generous, bombastic and
delicious. —J.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $42
Tantara 2012 Tondre Grapefield Pinot Noir
(Santa Lucia Highlands). This delivers a fragrant, earthy nose of musky cologne, like sniffing the
damp floor of a pine forest with mushrooms. The
flavors are very savory—mushroom stew, black licorice, beets with sautéed onions—with just enough
acidity and tannic grip. —M.K.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $55
Tantara 2012 Zotovich Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita
Hills). For full review see page 6.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $70
93
Three Sticks 2011 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). Round and rich, this wine
takes on renewed complexity in the glass. Seductive
in earthy red and black berry fruit and exotic spice,
it offers naturally realized structure in a stylized
package that should remain interesting for years.
—V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $65
93
Tolosa 2012 1772 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley).
Fresh smoke from your grandpa’s pipe
swirls with aromas of cherry pie and cinnamonvanilla cream on this wine named after the year
Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa was founded.
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BUYINGGUIDE
Flavors range from Earl Grey tea to crushed violets
and frothy blackberry sorbet. Only 22 barrels made.
—M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $60
93
Walt 2012 Blue Jay Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). A full-bodied, well-polished and nicely
oaky wine with a smooth and full texture. Flavors
are ripe and fruity and laced with vanilla, maple and
toasted bread nuances. Vibrant acidity pairs with
firm tannins to keep it mouthwatering on the finish. —J.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $40
93
Walt 2012 The Corners Pinot Noir (Anderson
Valley). Very ripe, this offers sweet cherry
and cinnamon aromas, equally enticing red cherry
flavors plus great balance and purity. Full-bodied,
it has silky texture and a long finish. A sweet oak
influence is evident. —J.G.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $65
92
Emeritus 2012 William Wesley Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). Fresh in tart strawberry,
this Brice Jones’ release hails from a vineyard 950
feet above the town of Annapolis, which is very
near the coast. Its profile reflects its provenance,
an earthy spiciness buoyed by tingling acidity and
lengthy, leathery finish. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $68
92
Evening Land 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). Smoky, spicy and midweight, this
earthy, brooding Pinot maintains layers of minerality amid fresh red berry fruit. The texture opens up
into silky waves in the glass, finishing with the right
balance of cherry and spice. —V.B.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $40
per on the nose, as well as fresh raspberry and a
minty strawberry sense. There is mild but noticeable tannic grip, tongue-dancing acidity and great
flavors, ranging from plum pie to charred beets.
—M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $55
92
Inman Family 2011 OGV Estate Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). OGV is the winery’s
estate vineyard, planted to several Pinot Noir clones.
Made to age, it is light in color and elegant, depths
of rhubarb and raspberry playing off each other to
offer shades of savory and sweet. Earthy and mildly
spicy, the wine’s exotic nature and marathon finish
should come hither even more forcefully with cellar
time; try 2017–2021. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $68
92
92
Byron 2012 Nielson Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). For full review see page 6.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $36
FEL 2012 Donnelly Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Anderson Valley). A broad texture and mellow flavors characterize this full-bodied, rich and
warming wine. The aromas and flavors recall black
cherries and clove with a touch of woody or earthy
character, but it’s the lush mouthfeel that’s most
memorable. —J.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $60
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Cebada 2012 Estate Pinot Noir (Santa Ynez
Valley). From an estate just northwest of the
already rather western Sta. Rita Hills appellation,
this mashes up raspberry, oak tree roots, black tea
and vanilla on the nose. The flavors are crisp and
clean with red fruit, brown spice and just enough
tannins and acidity. —M.K.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $42
92
Clos La Chance 2012 Murphy’s Choice Pinot
Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Plum, cinnamon, Chinese five spice, egg nog, strawberry compote and sour cherry team up for a memorable nose.
The palate proves more straight-ahead and savory,
with sandalwood up front and fleshy plum, cooked
rhubarb and some strawberry in the background.
—M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
92
Davis Family 2012 Horseshoe Bend Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Pretty in
violet and rose petals this is a lower-octane Pinot
Noir for the winery. Exquisitely rendered in spicy
dark cherry and soft, supple tannins, it hails from
a cool, coastal vineyard site 1,000 feet atop Occidental Ridge, the coolest source of grapes for Davis.
—V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $50
92
Davis Family 2012 Starr Ridge Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). Dark and spicy
this silky, supple Pinot Noir is richly restrained in
a freshness of boysenberry and the aromatics of a
forest floor. But it’s the exotic cola spice that’ll hook
you in and keep you there, particularly piquant on
the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $50
72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
Fess Parker 2012 Ashley’s Pinot Noir (Sta.
Rita Hills). For full review see page 6. Cellar
Selection.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $50
92
Fess Parker 2012 Clone 115 Pinot Noir (Sta.
Rita Hills). Cooked black cherry, black soil
and a pinch of pine sap combine for an intriguing
nose on this clonal study. The flavors are clove-driven around a pomegranate-cherry backdrop, with a
touch of cola and expertly balanced tannins and
acidity. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $55
92
Foxen 2012 Block 8 Bien Nacido Pinot Noir
(Santa Maria Valley). One of Foxen’s block
designates from the historic property, this offers
scents of purple flowers, black soil and sharp dill.
It’s quite smooth once sipped and not very complicated, but with fresh raspberry and brown spice.
—M.K.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $62
92
Foxen 2012 La Encantada Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Thyme, wet slate and
olallieberry reduction sauce lead the nose on this
single-vineyard study from veteran winemakers
Billy Wathen and Dick Dore. Its rich, fruit-forward
mouthfeel features ripe raspberries, plum skin tartness and black tea tannins. —M.K.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $62
92
Fulcrum 2012 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see
page 7. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $60
92
Gainey 2012 Limited Selection Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). There is distinct black pep-
J. Lohr 2012 Highlands Bench Pinot Noir
(Santa Lucia Highlands). J. Lohr dives into
the dark side of Pinot Noir, presenting a deeply hued
wine with black cherries, slate and yeast on the
nose. Licorice and blackberry power the palate with
sage as the prevailing herb, all balancing out well
despite the relatively high alcohol content. —M.K.
abv: 15%
Price: $35
Ken Brown 2012 Garey Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Santa Maria Valley). From the vineyard
Ken Brown planted after a decade of experiments
comes this complex wine, whose nose blends sour
cherry, pine bark, black clove and pepper. It’s lithe
and bouncy on the palate, yet deeply flavorful too,
with stewed raspberry flavors and a good tannic
structure. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $50
92
La Montagne 2012 Bouna Terra Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Uniquely sea-salty
aromas of kelp mesh with sharp Italian herbs and
heavily spiced cherry on the nose of this wine from
a vineyard at the western edge of the Sta. Rita Hills.
Flavors range from raspberry and tart cranberry to
clove, cardamom and espresso. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $50
92
La Montagne 2012 John Sebastiano Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Slightly sour orange-cranberry aromas meet with a touch of sagebrush on this wine from an increasingly popular
vineyard at the eastern edge of the Sta. Rita Hills.
The even-keeled, very drinkable flavors surround
tongue-tantalizing spice, light red fruit and a little
caramel on the finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $50
92
Landmark 2012 Spring Hill Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sonoma Coast). From a vineyard within what locals call the Petaluma Gap, a cool area
duly influenced by Pacific Ocean fog, this wine is
intense in berry and bright, lush, spicy layers indicative of its cooler leanings. Pleasing, with clove
and black tea between the fruit, it’s approachable
and impressive. —V.B.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $60
92
Lucienne 2012 Smith Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Santa Lucia Highlands). For full review see
page 7.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
92
Lynmar 2012 Kanzler Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). This is the winery’s first
Kanzler Vineyard Pinot Noir and its only Sonoma
Coast appellation Pinot. The cool-climate vineyard
offers ripe cherry and plum around a core of firm,
velvety tannins. From there, vibrant cranberry and
rhubarb flirt with black tea, while red apple, sage
and sandalwood notes round out the flavors on the
long finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $70
92
Mercy 2010 Cedar Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Arroyo Seco). For full review see page 7.
abv: 14%
Price: $38
92
Mount Eden 2012 Estate Bottled Pinot Noir
(Santa Cruz Mountains). Extremely light and
transparent in color, this wine has a nose that mixes
light raspberry fruit with diced green olive, pimento
and burned rubber funk. The olive tapenade carries
to the palate with a just-ripe strawberry, making for
a lean, savory vintage, which is carried with vibrant
acidity that lasts into days two and three. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $60
92
Rusack 2012 Solomon Hills Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Coming from the
westernmost vineyard in the appellation, this begins with a goulash-like nose of roasted tomato and
black olive, edged with fresh raspberry juice. That
fruit carries to the palate, where it remains light
and vivacious, with black licorice flavors providing
the herbal backbone. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
92
Saracina 2012 Klindt Vineyards Pinot Noir
(Anderson Valley). This is smooth and harmonious from the dark color, to the baritone aromas of black cherry and cassis, to the rather full
body, rich texture and firm tannins. Not too big and
not too oaky, but well balanced for its impressive
breadth of flavor. —J.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $38
92
Shane Wines 2012 La Reine Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). A graceful Pinot Noir that
feels silky on the palate, tastes almost sweet, exudes strawberry and cherry flavors. It is smooth
and pure, has a refined texture, almost delicate but
with good vibrant acidity and great balance. Just a
bit lighter and more elegant than The Charm bottling from Shane. —J.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $42
92
Summerland 2012 Theresa-Noelle Esatate
Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). There’s a subtle
yet thorough menthol character to the nose of this
single-vineyard wine from the west end of the appellation, alongside hibiscus juice. It’s tinglingly
acidic on the palate yet ripe and juicy at the same
time, like mild cherry juice meeting up with sassafras. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $50
92
Tantara 2012 Brosseau Pinot Noir (Chalone). Tantara’s take on the historic Chalone
AVA, which is full of limestone marl and clay near
the Pinnacles National Park, kicks off with dusty
aromas of red earth, light menthol and raspberryflavored Smarties candy. Strawberry, dried cherries, sage and herbs combine for unique, memorable
flavors. —M.K.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $55
92
Tantara 2012 Lindsay’s Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). Tantara’s 2012 Pinots tend
to be cloudy and light like this one, which delivers
aromas of cranberry and allspice. It’s very soft on
the palate, with light chai flavors and the tartness of
barely ripe pomegranate. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $65
92
Tantara 2012 Rio Vista Vineyard Calera Clone
Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Single-clone
wines can be less complex than clonal blends, but
not in this case. The nose is dominated by anise, but
the slightly bitter flavors are richer than Tantara’s
other Rio Vista Vineyard bottling, almost reminiscent of spicy beef goulash. Similarities do persist,
though, such as the supple and suave mouthfeel,
with an enduring finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $70
92
Testarossa 2012 Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Santa Lucia Highlands). This very elegant
nose is like a love potion perfume of violet, sterling
rose, myrrh and raspberry essence. The flavors veer
toward tart raspberry and cranberry, with cola and
purple flowers coming through before a brisk acidic
finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $61
92
Thralls 2012 Bucher Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). For full review see
page 8. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
91
Au Contraire 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
For full review see page 8. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $30
91
Big Basin 2012 Coastview Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Monterey County). Coming from a vineyard
on the eastern slope of the Salinas Valley near the
Chalone appellation, this Santa Cruz-made, 20%
whole-cluster wine smells of blackberry, unearthed
tree roots and licorice. Core flavors of brown spice
are surrounded by ripe raspberry and racy, potent
acidity. —M.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $44
91
Bread & Butter 2012 Mission Ranch Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Arroyo Seco). For full review see
page 8. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $20
91
Calista 2012 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). For
full review see page 8.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
91
Chasseur 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
Firm and substantial on the palate, this is a
complex Pinot, the red cherry fruit juicy and inviting and the wine layered in Chinese five-spice. Light
in texture and weight the wine still offers a sense of
place and gravitas. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $40
91
Davis Family 2012 Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). Earthy and stemmy,
this has forest floor and wild mushroom competing
for attention. A dark, brooding study in complexity, it’s big in structure and weight while simultaneously perfumed in violet, making for a pretty and
powerful wine. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $50
91
Domaine Anderson 2012 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Complex and individualistic,
this conveys a savory rather than fruity personality. Smoky, meaty aromas lead to spice-accented
plum and berry flavors. It feels full-bodied but not
hot, has a suave texture and lingering finish. The
first vintage to be released from the new Roedererowned winery. —J.G.
abv: 14.08%
Price: $50
91
Fess Parker 2011 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills).
For full review see page 9.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $30
91
Fog Crest 2012 Estate Bottled Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Warren Dutton planted
the first vineyard block of this Russian River Valley producer, the Pinot a combination of Dijon and
Pommard clones. In the hands of new winemaker
Jerome Chéry, the wine is exotic in spicy cinnamon
and cardamom, earthy and herbal with layers of
dark cherry. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
91
Francis Ford Coppola 2012 Reserve Dutton
Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).
Adorned with a gorgeous label, the artwork of film
production designer Dean Tavoularis, this spicy,
earthy Pinot Noir has medium weight with supple
tannins and toasty oak. With velvety layers of dark
ripe cherry and black tea, this is classically Dutton
Ranch Russian River Valley, and it finishes long and
spicy. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
91
Gehricke 2012 Pinot Noir (Los Carneros). For
full review see page 9.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
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BUYINGGUIDE
91
Labyrinth 2012 Presq’ile Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Santa Maria Valley). Sharply peppered,
leaning toward Fresno chiles, with bits of cedar and
forest floor, this is a very savory Pinot Noir, showing
over very cool climate essences. On the palate, there
are green olives, Indian spices and raspberry, and
this would give extra kick to any dish served. —M.K.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $52
91
Lynmar 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). The winery’s most accessible and available Pinot Noir—still quite small in production—is
from several vineyards, including single-vineyard
sites like Jenkins. It offers classic Russian River Valley cola spice and bright aromatics and acidity, the
texture soft and structured, a smaller percentage of
new French oak used for aging. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
91
Lynmar 2012 Five Sisters Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). The winery’s high-end cuvée,
this is a five-barrel blend, three of the barrels new.
Dancing in cardamom and dark cherry, the background ripe and toasty, the flavors are exotic and
long lingering. There’s a tension and intensity to
this wine that bests speaks to aging, or a full decant;
either way, it’ll be delicious. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $100
91
Lynmar 2012 Quail Hill Vineyard Block 10 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Block 10 was
made with 25% whole cluster fermentation, the result bold and impressive in cola cherry and soft baking spices, an intriguing floral note akin to geranium
or gardenia highlighting the palate. Midway, expect
an expansive opening of the wine, before notes of
cocoa and espresso delve in. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $70
91
Martin Ray 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir (Green
Valley). For full review see page 9.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $40
91
Morgan 2012 Twelve Clones Pinot Noir (Santa
Lucia Highlands). An amazingly vivid nose of
cherry, eucalyptus and morning dew on wild fennel
promises a stunning wine in this clonal combo from
Morgan. The flavors aren’t quite so mind-blowing,
though, as basic fruit-punch elements meet with
touches of peppercorn and nutmeg. —M.K.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $34
91
Phantom Rivers 2012 Wolff Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Edna Valley). This boisterous Pinot Noir
offers heavy cedar, raspberry liqueur, cola syrup and
Kahlua aromas. Bright red fruit flavors of strawberry pie are rich and mouth-coating like a fine brandy,
but remain soft and tasty throughout. This is a noholds-barred wine. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $28
91
Ram’s Gate 2012 Glass House Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sonoma Coast). This generous wine
is big and full on the nose, with two-thirds new
French oak making itself felt in texture and aroma
74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
but entirely well-managed, resulting in a balanced
wine. Forest floor and earth tones burst on the palate, followed by brambly dark berry fruit, the texture soft to the finish, which offers some grip. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $62
91
Saintsbury 2012 Brown Ranch Pinot Noir
(Carneros-Napa Valley). An estate bottled Pinot, this wine is inviting in floral and fruity characteristics, offering concise layers of red cherry, rose
petals and a spark of oak that builds in intensity
through the finish. This is a nice place to start on
the winery’s lineup of Carneros-Napa Valley Pinot
Noir. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $72
91
Small Vines 2012 Baranoff Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). Planted in 2001 above
the Laguna de Santa Rosa near Sebastopol, Baranoff
Vineyard is tightly spaced to mostly Calera-clone
Pinot, providing the wine’s bright raspberry and
cherry overtones atop a layering of earth and spice.
Thickly structured, it finishes with tart cherry.
—V.B.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $72
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Summerland 2012 Wolff Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Edna Valley). A sour-spicy nose of stewed
cranberries, chai and floral infusions reveal the nuances of this single-vineyard offering from a coastal
appellation, just over the hills from Pismo Beach.
Bright red fruit flavors are laid across an herbal
backbone with anise and black olive in the midpalate, finishing with bitter greens. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
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Tantara 2012 Rio Vista Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). Tantara’s 2012s are a soft
shade of red in color, with a bit of unfiltered cloudiness, qualities that deliver, in this case, aromas of
Indian food, white pepper, curried lamb and anise.
It’s extremely soft on the palate and lightweight, but
bursting with well rounded tart and savory flavors.
—M.K.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $55
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Thralls 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).
Opening with earth and herb, much like its
companion vineyard-designated Bucher Vineyard
Pinot, this wine is lean on the midpalate but builds
character and strength as it goes, and is delightfully
measured in tart cherry with memorable subtlety.
—V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $32
91
Transcendence 2012 F Street Pinot Noir (Sta.
Rita Hills). A welcome barnyard funk of sour
cherry, wet leather and mulched shrubbery kicks off
the nose on this wine from the likable Joey Gummere, once know for the Kenneth-Crawford wines.
Fennel seed flavors and violet characters emerge on
the very pretty palate, which has both tannins and
mouth-washing acid on the finish. —M.K.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $36
90
Anglim 2010 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). There are faint scents of
eucalyptus and sage on this Paso producer’s take on
Sta. Rita Hills fruit. The palate is more promising
with dark hints of tobacco and sour cherry, and the
acidity is preserving this perfectly, as it shows no
age whatsoever. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $42
90
Calista 2012 The Coast Range Pinot Noir
(California). For full review see page 10.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
90
CC Pachyderm 2012 Rice-Spivak Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Made by Ross
Cobb and Katy Wilson, a rockstar winemaking team,
this Pinot is earthy and spicy, a light, softly textured
example of the complexity and nuance possible out
of the cooler sites of the Sonoma Coast. Dark in
color and savory it’s made in small quantities, but
do try and seek, then let it develop in the glass over
time. —V.B.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $70
90
Chasseur 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). Light and earthy, with welcoming
aromas of forest floor and black tea, this is a wisp
of wine, delicate and soft, lightly spicy and enjoyable. Cherry and raspberry round out its profile, an
elegant representation of Russian River Valley Pinot. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $40
90
Cobden Wini 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). Floral in aroma, this was aged in
one-third new French oak and left unfined and unfiltered. It offers tart cherry and wild strawberry
notes in a light-toned, ripe package, the secondary
characteristics herbal and earthy. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36
90
Davis Family 2012 Soul Patch Estate Grown
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Muscular
in brambly black cherry and spicy cola layers, this
lingers on the palate long after the initial sip. A fine
example from what the Russian River Valley winemakers call the Laguna Ridge, a not-too-cool, nottoo-warm section of the appellation with shallow
Goldridge soils. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $50
90
Della 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This balanced and fuller style of Pinot
Noir celebrates the classic traits of Russian River’s
warmer pockets. It offers plenty of dark fruit, from
blackberry to raspberry and black cherry, with sultry, fine-hewn tannins and juicy texture. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
90
Domaine Eden 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz
Mountains). Sour cranberry juice aromas
mix with wet slate, strawberry soda, black olives
and charred beets on this bottling from historic
Mount Eden’s more affordable series. It’s crisp and
clean once sipped, with ripe cranberry fruit picking
up oregano and marjoram herbs and a nice tartness
on the back end. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
swirling in equal parts strawberry and spice, subtle
and sophisticated. —V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $65
90
90
FEL 2012 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley).
The entry-level Pinot Noir in FEL’s lineup
of several Anderson Valley Pinots has toasty, oaky
aromas, sweet oak flavors and smoky accents. A big,
full-bodied, new-oak style wine, it’s substantial and
structured. —J.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $38
90
FEL 2012 Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is a hearty, rich Pinot
Noir from the famed Hirsch Vineyard, seductive and
silky on the palate with dark, lingering black cherry
fruit and layers of exotic spice. A core of earthiness
defines the wine, its finish mid-length. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $65
90
Fess Parker 2012 Older Barrels Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). The nose on this Fess
Parker study of barrel age is dominated by Christmas trees and eucalyptus, with subtle red fruit in
the background. The palate is woody too, with tart
cranberry amidst camphor, burnt cedar and spicy
forest herbs. A very intriguing bottle. —M.K.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $55
90
Fess Parker 2011 Ashley’s Pinot Noir (Sta.
Rita Hills). This single-vineyard Sta. Rita
Hills Pinot offers black licorice, wild mint and boysenberry on the nose. Black cherry comes first on
the palate followed by clove spice. This 2012 will be
much better in 2016. —M.K.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $50
90
Forty-Seven Friends 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). Meant to represent the
many characteristics of Sonoma County-grown Pinot Noir, from fruity to spicy to leathery to ripe, this
is an intriguing wine, soft and measured, restrained
even, highlighted by clove-type spice and brambly
dark cherry. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $20
90
Garnet 2012 Rodgers Creek Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is a heady, seriously generous Pinot Noir from a coolish site in the
Sonoma Coast AVA that clearly had a banner ripening year in 2012. The fruit is smoky and concentrated in dark berry and cherry, an intriguing bit of
spearmint playing around in the background. Rodgers Creek is an estate vineyard for the brand, planted to Pommard clones. A steal at this price. —V.B.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $30
90
Gary Farrell 2012 Russian River Selection
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full
review see page 10.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
90
JCB 2011 No. 11 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
Light in color and lilting floral aromas of
rose, this is an inviting cool-climate Pinot Noir
Landmark 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia
Highlands). At first soft and understated,
the nose slowly emerges with the lush pomegranate,
cranberry and sagebrush aromas common to the appellation. It’s very spice with clove on the front of
the palate, then evolves into a long-lasting finish of
red cherry. —M.K.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $35
90
Landmark 2012 Overlook Pinot Noir (San
Luis Obispo-Sonoma-Monterey). For full review see page 11.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25
90
Lost Canyon 2011 Morelli Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 11.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $45
90
Pali 2012 Cargasacchi Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). Round, savory aromas of
orange-cranberry with a sprig of sagebrush lead the
nose on this single-vineyard look at the western end
of the Sta. Rita Hills. Spicy notes of chai and burnt
caramel lead the flavor profile, which is expansive
with cooked fruit on the midpalate. —M.K.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $56
90
Ram’s Gate 2012 Sangiacomo Vineyards
Roberts Road Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
Roberts Road is one of the Sangiacomo family’s
coolest-climate sites, and it offers light, clear color
and deliciously floral notes of violet and rose on the
nose. In taste it is earthy and full of dark plum and
black cherry, the backbone deeper and darker in
mushroom and fresh dirt. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $68
90
Rusack 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara
County). The Rusack family’s entry-level
Pinot Noir is a great taste of Santa Barbara County,
with scents of red fruit, dark earth and cinnamon.
The flavors are rich with spice and fruit, like a
cherry compote spread on thin slices of warm toast.
—M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $30
90
Saintsbury 2012 Lee Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Carneros-Napa Valley). A complex wine
that takes time to unveil itself, this offers muted
dark cherry and exotic cardamom spice, light and
layered through the midpalate before revealing a
taste of toasty oak on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $54
90
San Simeon 2012 Pinot Noir (Monterey). For
full review see page 11.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $25
90
Small Vines 2012 Estate Cuvée Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). This cuvée is put to-
gether from several estate vineyards, most of them
marked by low vigor and cool ridge-top climates.
The blend shows them all off well. Dark cherry and
plum delve into classic earthy forest floor and sautéed mushrooms, the texture soft and silky. —V.B.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $55
90
Testarossa 2012 Niclaire Pinot Noir (California). Testarossa’s annual best-barrel
offering starts with broad aromas of violets, blackberry tea and anise on the edges. It’s a lighter Pinot
density-wise, very soft and expressive with purple
fruits, black olive and a fennel-powered acidify on
the finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $81
90
Transcendence 2012 Lafond Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Violet and lavender
florals mesh with strawberry pie and earthy bark
aromas on this single-vineyard expression from
Lompoc-based Joey Gummere. The flavors are cranberry-apple and boysenberry, tart and relatively
light, both tannins and acidity integrated seamlessly. —M.K.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $45
90
Walt 2012 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). Time spent in 65% new
French oak does define this still-young wine, which
displays plenty of earthiness and big, juicy red fruit.
Concentrated and thick on the palate, it needs cellaring through 2020 (or a good decant) to resolve
some of the smoke and spice that lie within it now.
Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $65
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Blair 2012 Delfina’s Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Arroyo Seco). There’s s great story about
five generations behind this wine, which offers a
nose fresh and clean with raspberry, cranberry
and crushed clove. The flavors are lean, with steel,
graphite and raspberry, perfect for serving with a
wide variety of foods. —M.K.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $35
89
Bruliam 2012 Soberanes Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Santa Lucia Highlands). This wine opens
with very flinty aromas of struck graphite and pencil shavings, with touches of fermenting orange and
cranberry. It’s light in weight but darkly flavored on
the palate, with slate and clove spice. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $46
89
Donelan 2012 Two Brothers Pinot Noir
(North Coast). Light in color with an herbal
profile, this lightly textured wine offers tart cherry
and dry tannins with a bite of oak on the finish.
Having undergone partial whole-cluster fermentation (30%), it also has a forested, savory character, streaked in cedar and baking spice. Most of the
grapes hail from Sonoma Mountain, rounded out by
Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley and Mendocino
fruit. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $55
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Fess Parker 2012 Pommard Clone Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). This winery produces a
slew of Pinot Noirs each year, and this specific clonal study shows clove and cardamom on the somewhat subdued nose. The flavors are more forward,
dominated by black tea and cherry, with a touch of
tannin. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $55
89
Husch 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Anderson
Valley). This Pinot does its job beautifully, cleansing the palate, being balanced well for
food, and bringing an appetizing subtlety in flavor.
It tastes rather lean and slightly earthy but has
enough cherry, black pepper and clove complexity
to hold your interest. —J.G.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $38
89
Kokomo 2012 Peters Vineyard Winemaker’s
Reserve Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Light in
color and spicy cherry fruit, it offers layers of oak
and earth that compete for attention. The wine is
a blend of three clones, including Pommard, which
reveals itself in the wine’s forested and floral character. Concentrated and relatively lush, it should
stand the test of time and air; try from 2017–2019.
—V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $48
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La Follette 2012 Sangiacomo Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sonoma Coast). Earth and mushroom
dominate this lighter-style wine, offering aromas
and flavors of forest floor and fresh soil, and even a
taste of black tea shyly dancing in the background.
Well-balanced and complex, it has a silky texture
and long, smooth finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $42
89
Mansfield-Dunne 2012 Peterson Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This
wine’s nose has a sharply spiced tinge, with wet
herbs, cola, and cranberry aromas. At first, it’s a
bit muddy on the palate, but then the strong acidic
backbone presents both herbal tones and tart cranberry against an earthy core. —M.K.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $48
89
R2 2012 3BB Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
Called 3BB because it combines the three
best barrels of the vintage, this is an earthy Pinot,
soft, round and highlighted in cinnamon spice and
electric acidity, especially on the finish. The fruit
leans toward darker, lusher black cherry, a flavor
that takes some time to develop aromatically. —V.B.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $50
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R2 2012 Black Pine Pinot Noir (California).
A medium-bodied Pinot Noir that is quite
sophisticated, despite the California AVA labeling.
It has lots of cherry-berry flavors, great balance,
velvety texture and long finish. It is substantial in
flavor, smooth, and complete. —J.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $26
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Rusack 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita
Hills). Violets and rose petals lead the nose,
followed by ripe blackberries and, with a bit of patience, some warm pie crust. The flavors are pleasant but hard to pin down, with flashes of licorice,
red currant, allspice and orange peel. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
89
Saintsbury 2012 Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir
(Carneros-Napa Valley). Dark black cherry
dominates the mood of this wine, lively and light,
with a delicate, unexpected punch of spicy cinnamon throughout and a tension of toned oak balanced against the fruit. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $54
89
Sarah’s Vineyard 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa
Lucia Highlands). Roasted tomatoes, root
vegetable and anise conspire on this sanguine nose
from a winery based in the Gilroy area. It’s light,
even dainty on the palate, but packed with a spice
bomb of flavors from fennel seed to Dr Pepper.
—M.K.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $32
89
Tantara 2012 La Colline Pinot Noir (Arroyo
Grande Valley). Deep purple fruits swirl
with marjoram and clove on the nose of this singlevineyard bottling by winemaker Jeff Fink. There’s
darkness on the palate too, with black loamy flavors
alongside sour cherry fruit leather and cardamomspiced raspberry juice. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $55
89
Twomey 2012 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley).
This is a sleek and easy-to-appreciate Pinot
Noir, on the lighter side, with fresh cherry and raspberry flavors, a touch of acidity for balance and a
gentle texture. It seems polished and complete and
not overdone. —J.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $50
88
Ancient Oak Cellars 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is an attractive Pinot Noir priced attractively, a good value given its
aromas of violet and rose petal and bright taste of
strawberry. There’s a tension to the acidity and an
intensity of oak and ripe fruit on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $28
88
Balletto 2012 Winery Block Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Light and ephemeral,
Winery Block comes from one vineyard planted to
three clones (Swan, Dijon 114 and Mt. Eden). The
Swan predominates, prompting pretty floral aromas
of rose and violet before a bright line of cherry-rhubarb kicks in and earthiness rounds out the middle
and end. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $38
88
Churchill Cellars 2012 Burke Family Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). Silky in hightoned flavors of red cherry, this is light and enjoyable. A memorable jolt of acidity on the finish nicely
ties things up and gives the wine a mouthwatering
quality. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $45
88
Davies 2012 Ferrington Vineyards Pinot Noir
(Anderson Valley). Seemingly light and elegant, this conveys the cherrylike, cinnamonlike
flavors and vibrant balance that Pinot should. It is
actually medium to full-bodied, quite smooth but
with a touch of acidity to keep it appetizing. This
could well improve with age, considering its great
balance. Best now–2019. —J.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $55
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Deep Sea 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara
County). This offers aromas of clove, cherry,
cooked berries, tree bark and woodsmoke. There is
strong acidity on the palate, with stewed strawberry
and cranberry fruit, a peppercorn spice and decent
bitterness to round it out. —M.K.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $36
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La Crema 2012 Pinot Noir (Los Carneros).
This is a powerfully earthy and rustic Pinot
soft in tannin structure and exuberant in ripe dark
cherry and berry, a touch of savory leather and tobacco peaking on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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La Montagne 2012 Kessler-Haak VIneyard
Theron Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Raspberry and clove characterize the nose on this singlevineyard bottling. The palate kicks off with vibrant
black cherry, slips toward black olive on the midpalate and ends with bright acidity on a decent finish.
—M.K.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $58
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Landmark 2012 Rodgers Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). There’s a fresh,
juicy sense of dark cherry and cranberry in this medium-bodied wine. A lurking forested, mushroomy
earthiness hovers around it as well, the finish awash
in rich, dark toasty oak accented by notes of chocolate. —V.B.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $50
88
Migration 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). Sourced from seven different vineyards across the appellation, this ripe Pinot is savory in flavor, seasoning the dark cherry fruit at its
center with spicy cardamom and cinnamon. On the
palate comes a taste of thick oak and bacon with sizable tannins. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
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MooBuzz 2012 Pinot Noir (Monterey). Deep
black raspberry and slate make for a traditional nose on this solid-deal wine. It’s refreshing
and lively once sipped, with dark red fruits and a bit
of brown spice. —M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
88
Pietra Santa 2012 Estate Pinot Noir (Cienega
Valley). From a limestone-laden vineyard
25 miles east of the cool Monterey Bay comes a solid wine redolent with notes of black cherry, toasted
sage, cedar and cinnamon. It’s big and tannic on the
palate, with flavors of blackberry syrup, black licorice and espresso. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
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R2 2012 S&B Sanford & Benedict VIneyard
Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). The Roessler brothers take a good spin through the historic
Sanford & Benedict vines and present a wine with
cherry, baked fennel and a bit of eucalyptus on the
nose. It’s fairly lean once sipped, but balanced well
between pomegranate fruit and dark spices. —M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $56
88
Reata 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). A
grippy Pinot Noir with a hint of menthol on
the nose, this wine is otherwise delicately high in
acidity with a burst of tart cherry that swirls between soft, round tannins and brambly blackberry
on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $45
88
Red Car 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
Harvested from six different vineyard sites,
this wine employed 10% stems and 10% new oak
for a brooding sense of blue and red berry, the acidity plenty zesty and tannins softly measured. —V.B.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $40
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Summerland 2010 Bien Nacido Pinot Noir
(Santa Maria Valley). There’s some age
showing on the nose of this wine, with cherry liqueur aromas most prevalent. It’s very tasty once
sipped, and still strongly tannic, with dark cherry
and black clove. But don’t wait any longer: Drink
now. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $50
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Talley 2012 Estate Pinot Noir (Arroyo Grande
Valley). The nose offers crushed cinnamon sticks sprinkled upon just-picked raspberries
and squeezed plums. The palate brings heavier red
fruits, approaching boysenberry and pomegranate
juice, with a clove spice throughout. —M.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $36
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Talley 2012 Proprietor Grown Pinot Noir
(Edna Valley). Coming from the Stone Corral Vineyard, this wine tends toward the browner
side of the scent spectrum, with roasted root vegetables, baking spice and a bit of anise. It’s dainty
on the palate, but strong in flavors of mocha, licorice, ripe raspberry and beet juice, proving brightly
acidic and a tad more tannic than similar wines of
this vintage. —M.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $34
88
Tantara 2012 Tondre H Block Pinot Noir
(Santa Lucia Highlands). Pomegranate, sour
cherry, cranberry and slight anise emerge with patience on the shy nose. The flavors are also light,
with cranberry sauce, brown spices, a touch of pepper and an herbal finish. —M.K.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $65
88
Terra Valentine 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). This is a classic Cabernet
Sauvignon lover’s Pinot: dense, thick and given 16
months in 40% new oak. The dark cherry fruit is
decidedly ripe, with the appellation’s signature cola
throughout. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $48
88
Testarossa 2012 Brosseau Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Chalone). This begins with a reserved
nose that unfolds into deep, black aromas of licorice, turned earth and graphite. Pomegranate and
acai fruit flavors mix with red clay and touches of
whiskey, but the tannins are powerful. Give it until at least 2018 to smooth out. Cellar Selection.
—M.K.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $61
87
Byington 2012 Estate Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz
Mountains). Coming from a vineyard 2,100
feet high in the Santa Cruz Mountains, this is quite
light in color, with a fruit-punch aroma alongside
graphite, vanilla and French toast. The easy-drinking flavors are tart and straightforward. —M.K.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $39
87
Davis Family 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). The aromas in this wine are sexy
and seductive in dark fruit and spice, and the acidity bristles against a fuller, brooding body. The finish ties things up nicely if not a bit too soon. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
87
Davis Family 2012 Campbell Ranch Pinot
Noir (Sonoma Coast). There’s a tension to
this dark, brawny Pinot marked otherwise by baked
blackberry and plum fruit, oak and earth. The tannins are not subtle and the texture mouth-filling.
—V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $50
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Testarossa 2012 Doctor’s Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). The aromas
are rather reserved, with hints of cola, wet slate, Dr
Pepper and herbed strawberry. The flavors are good
but light in presentation, conveying cherry cola and
a bit of minerality. Easy, quality sipping but not very
expressive. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $63
Tolosa 2012 Estate Tolsosa Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Edna Valley). Toasted oak integrates
nicely with fresh fruit aromas. The flavors are more
hidden, with subtle strawberry, black tea tannins
and just enough acidity making for an even, wellpriced wine. —M.K.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $32
88
Trueblood 2012 Pinot Noir (Carneros-Napa
Valley). Light in color and texture, it offers
inviting perfumed violet aromas before weavings
of raspberry and just-ripe cherry take over on the
palate. Approachable and easygoing, a wine to enjoy
now. —V.B.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $35
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Balletto 2012 Burnside Road Vineyard Emerson Block Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A
rustic sense of earthy dark cherry fruit characterizes
the aromas and flavors. The fruit comes from a oneacre piece surrounded by the winery’s larger Burnside Road Vineyard, a block that is often blended
into a larger vineyard-designation wine. Dark and
concentrated, it offers structure and spice. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $42
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Bishop’s Peak 2012 Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo County). This is the annual good-value
Pinot Noir from the Talley Vineyards team. It presents tight, slow-emerging aromas of graphite, raspberry and cooked rhubarb. Bitterness is at the core
of the palate, bolstered by dark red fruits. —M.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
Kokomo 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A blend of two vineyards­—one closer to
the coast and the other in the middle of the Russian River Valley—yields this light-colored Pinot.
It’s thin and muted in damp earth tones, the dark
cherry fruit building to a big, spicy finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $36
Martin Ray 2013 Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). Earthy and herbal, this young Pinot
Noir is ripe in layered dark cherry, cola and oak. The
finish is expansive and abbreviated. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $30
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Mercy 2010 Zabala Vineyard Pinot Noir (Arroyo Seco). The deeply extracted nose offers
plum liqueur, cola and cedar. It proves rich and juicy
once sipped as well, with prune, berry syrup, licorice and mocha combining for a very big Pinot Noir.
—M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $38
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Toboni 2010 Oakwild Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Interesting components of
rural earth, mushroom, plum, dark cherry and cola
spice play off each other in this robust, full-bodied
Pinot, from the growers of Toboni Vineyards. —V.B.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $45
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Vinum 2013 Pinot Noir (Monterey). Black
licorice, dark red fruit and wet asphalt make
for a distinctive nose on this inexpensive wine, great
for nightly sipping. The flavors are tight, tart and
easy, with raspberry jelly most prominent. —M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
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Ancient Oak Cellars 2011 Siebert Ranch Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). Soft and supple,
this has a heavy streak of spearmint and an herbal
finish that also offers dark black cherry and ripe,
leathery tannins. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $40
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Balletto 2012 Estate Grown and Bottled BCD
Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).
The fourth vintage of the BCD Estate, this offers
high acidity around a core of ripe cherry fruit and
earthy, pastoral overtones, the tannins nicely managed. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $38
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Benziger 2012 Appellation Series Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). This is a fairly light, bright
Pinot Noir with the marks of a ripe year and time
spent in oak. It is crafted under the guidelines of a
certified sustainable grape growing program. Medium-bodied and juicy, it’s fairly priced and ready to
enjoy now. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
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Calista 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This Pinot is marked by pronounced
oak and a meaty, ripe texture, surrounded by pretty
aromas of lavender and rose petal. It jumps from
lean to rich on the palate and finishes tart. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Elizabeth Rose 2012 Pinot Noir (Yountville).
Rustic earth and forest emanate from this
Pinot Noir, a rare find from Yountville, a growing
area more devoted to Cabernet Sauvignon. From organically grown grapes, the wine has a smooth taste
of wild strawberry and is not overly complex, the
finish abbreviated and the wine on the lower price
range of the variety. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Kokomo 2012 Peters Vineyard Gopher Hill
Block Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). From a
former Gravenstein apple orchard, this Pinot is intense in white pepper and cherry pit, and not unlike
the skin of an apple. The zesty acidity sizzles on the
palate. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $42
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McFadden Vineyard 2012 Estate Grown Organically Grown Grapes Pinot Noir (Potter
Valley). Tasty and no-nonsense, this shows cherry
and blackberry flavors along with leafy aromas. It
is juicy, fresh, moderately tannic, firm-textured, appetizing and well made. —J.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $24
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Oakwild Ranch 2010 Toboni Vineyards Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). Oaky, slightly
sweet and otherwise exhibiting rich tones of dirt
and earth, this is soft in tannins and texture, the
finish unveiling power. —V.B.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $35
86
Pietra Santa 2012 Route 152 Pinot Noir
(Central Coast). This wine leans toward
the brown-orange side of the Pinot Noir scale, with
burnt orange, cranberry and whiffs of anise. Cooked
fruits dominate the palate, with fruitcake and gingerbread flavors. Best Buy. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $10
78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
86
Ron Rubin 2012 Pinot Noir (Green Valley).
From a cool-climate pocket within the larger Russian River Valley where even sparkling wine
grapes thrive, this Pinot is muted somewhat, its flavors darker and oakier than expected, earthy yet shy
in spice —V.B.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $25
86
Woodenhead 2011 Pinot Noir (Mendocino
Ridge). Unfined and unfiltered, this has a
deep garnet color with a little smoky touch at the
rim. The aromas resemble ripe cherries and cola,
the flavors emphasize both fruit and savory components like sage and smoke and the feel is nicely dry.
The way it holds back a bit on richness is fine for a
change. —J.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $38
85
Balletto 2012 Estate Grown and Bottled Cider Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). From a selection of clones planted in Goldridge sandy loam soils, this is a dark and savory
Pinot Noir. Ripe and oaked, it presents a balanced
combination of cherry fruit flavor and soda spice.
—V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $42
85
Bonneau 2011 Sangiacomo Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sonoma Coast). Earthy and recalling
the aromas of a woodshed or old barn, this tastes of
darker fruit. Relatively lean on the palate, it ends as
abruptly as it starts. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $42
85
Crushed 2012 Pinot Noir (California). Rather
light and very smooth, this combines tasty
plum flavors with subtle oaky, earthy accents and
medium body. Enough varietal character keeps
things interesting. —J.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $11
85
Isabel Mondavi 2011 Estate Pinot Noir
(Carneros-Napa Valley). Intensely oaky, this
Carneros Pinot is brooding in ripe plum fruit and
straightforwardly layered with approachable fruit
flavor and mellowing tannins. Enjoy now. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $40
85
One Hope 2012 Pinot for Paws Pinot Noir
(California). A sturdy Pinot, this has an appetizing texture because of the moderate tannins
and acidity, with modest fruit and herbal flavors. It
will be a good pairing with rich, meaty dishes. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
ripe dark cherry as the main standout, although it
is nearly overwhelmed by earth and vanilla. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
84
Brutocao 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Enjoyable but in a rustic mold,
it has earthy dusty aromas, red cherry flavors and
a mature, mellow character. Full-bodied and firmtextured with good acidity and moderate tannins.
—J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
84
Toulouse 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Anderson
Valley). An old-school, non-interventionist
style of Pinot Noir with a slightly tawny color on the
rim and similarly mature flavors. This has earthy,
tea-like aromas, flavors of dried cranberries and a
mellow texture. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
83
Mossback 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A cynical take on Pinot Noir offering
little in the way of fruit or personality. It’s overly
oaky and dark in color, perhaps due to the 5% Petit
Verdot listed in the blend, and overly ripe on the
finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $25
83
Toulouse 2011 Estate Pinot Noir (Anderson
Valley). The color—a rather light garnet
going to brownish—suggests an older wine or one
made with rustic methods, and the flavors travel the
same path. An earthy quality shades modest cherry
flavors, while hints of clove and cinnamon add complexity. —J.G.
abv: NA
Price: $50
82
Ideology Cellars 2012 Montaffi Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This buxom
Pinot Noir from a historic vineyard in the heart of
Russian River suffers from its ripeness, providing a
lot of oak and stewed fruit flavors over a smothered
earthiness just trying to get out. —V.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $48
82
Lost Canyon 2011 Whitton Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). Aromas of dinerstyle hash brown potatoes figure into the mix here,
a touch unsettling, as is the menthol and smoke.
—V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
OREGON
WHITE WINES
85
R2 2012 Hein Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley).
Earthy aromas and mild tea and black cherry flavors characterize this medium-bodied Pinot. A
bit rustic in style, but it offers the palate-cleansing
acidity and moderate tannins that people like in a
basic Burgundy. —J.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $48
85
Roth 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Bigboned and intense, it features oaky, thick,
CHARDONNAY
94
Evening Land 2012 Seven Springs Vineyard
Summum Chardonnay (Eola-Amity Hills).
The Summum block sits at the vineyard’s highest
elevation, and seems to ripen more slowly and give
extra complexity at lower sugar levels. Elegant and
refined, with fruit flavors less in your face than its
sister cuvées, this mixes citrus flavors of lemon,
lime and pink grapefruit, along with lighter suggestions of pineapple and a hint of papaya. It’s complex
and captivating, with a long, racy finish. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $90
93
Evening Land 2012 Seven Springs Vineyard
La Source Chardonnay (Eola-Amity Hills).
A step up from the winery’s other Seven Springs
Chardonnay, in both price and quality, this comes
from a section of the vineyard planted on a ridge of
basalt under thin soils. Here the influence of new
oak barrels is noticeable and welcome, bringing
a rich, oily, nut and butter character to the peach
and apricot fruit flavors. It’s graced with spiderweb
acidity that puts the perfect scaffolding around the
fruit and barrel highlights. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $65
92
Stoller 2012 Reserve Chardonnay (Dundee
Hills). Well-crafted and bright, with restrained (15% new) use of oak barrels, this estategrown reserve brings a luscious mix of lemon, lime
and tangerine fruit flavors into focus. The mouthfeel is just puckery enough, without being at all
sour, and the complexity builds through a lingering
finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
91
Adelsheim 2013 Chardonnay (Willamette
Valley). A solid effort from a well-balanced
vintage, this is whole-cluster pressed and largely
fermented in stainless steel. A percentage went into
neutral oak, and none went through malolactic. It’s
a clean, honest style, that confidently displays the
fruit flavor of the grape—a juicy and refreshing mix
of apples, white peaches, melon and spice. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
91
Evening Land 2012 Seven Springs Vineyard
Chardonnay (Eola-Amity Hills). Already
drinking nicely, this offers generously ripened
peach, candied lemon and pineapple fruits. The lush
flavors are balanced against fresh, natural acidity,
with little or no time in new oak apparent. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
91
Lange 2013 Three Hills Cuvée Chardonnay
(Willamette Valley). Fermented in one- to
three-year-old French oak puncheons, this shows
the balance and tension of a young, precise, detailed
wine built for aging. There’s a light touch with the
mix of apple, pear, peach and melon fruit, set up
with vivid acidity and an overriding sense of perfect
proportion. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $38
90
Adelsheim 2012 Stoller Vineyard Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). A tiny production wine,
this is rich, tart and vividly fruity. The generous
mix of citrus, apple and peach fruit is augmented
by barrel fermentation flavors of toasted hazelnuts,
caramel and baking spices. Though made with tra-
ditional Burgundian techniques, the flavors are New
Worldly, bright and fruit-driven. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $65
PINOT GRIS
90
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Foris 2012 Chardonnay (Rogue Valley). A directly appealing wine with notes of apple,
toast and melon. It’s fresh in feel, medium bodied
with a good sense of balance throughout and a lingering finish. Best Buy. —S.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $14
Lange 2013 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Lime and pineapple, peach and crisp
acidity mark this as a fresh, go-to style. The label
notes it was fermented both in stainless steel and
French oak barrels. It’s balanced and true to the
fruit and the elegant vintage. Just a hint of butterscotch comes through. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $18
Irvine Family Vineyards 2012 Ashland Chardonnay (Oregon). A whiff of volatility distracts a bit from an otherwise enjoyable wine that
has notes of butterscotch, tapioca and spice. The
palate is medium bodied with sweet tropical fruit
flavors. Tasted twice with consistent notes. —S.S.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $29
RoxyAnn 2012 Chardonnay (Rogue Valley).
The oak (40% new French) seems a bit
overweighted for the fruit that is in the glass, delivering notes of char in front of popcorn butter (full
malolactic fermentation) and peach. Some interesting things are going on but they don’t quite all hang
together. —S.S.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $26
PINOT BLANC
90
Adelsheim 2013 Bryan Creek Vineyard Pinot
Blanc (Chehalem Mountains). Beautifully
crafted, this is racy and mineral-soaked. Mountain
herbs are in abundance, along with clean, green (in
a good way) berry, banana and pineapple fruit. It’s
balanced throughout, with excellent length and texture. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
90
J. Scott Cellars 2013 Pinot Blanc (Oregon).
Pinot Blanc is both under-produced and
under-valued, yet delivers exceptional flavor and
a distinctive profile, especially in the better vintages, such as 2013. Generous fruit flavors of apple
and Asian pear dominate, buoyed with a refreshing
amount of natural acidity. Delicious now, and should
age well through 2017. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
88
Foris 2013 Estate Grown Pinot Blanc (Rogue
Valley). An appealing wine with notes of
mineral, red apple and tropical fruit. It’s dry, fresh
and fleshy with tart acidity and a warm finish. —S.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $14
Panther Creek 2013 Pinot Gris (Willamette
Valley). Lush and creamy, this is loaded
with seductive flavors of ripe pear, melon and sweet
apple. There’s a hint of whipped cream and a dash of
vanilla, but not overbearing or in any way artificial.
It’s simply delicious. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
Adelsheim 2013 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). A terrific value in a benchmark Oregon
Pinot Gris, this is bright and refreshing, with the
palate-cleansing minerality that characterizes all
of the Adelsheim white wines. Jicama and melon
and pear fruits mingle seamlessly, and the wine’s
texture and length are impressive. Editors’ Choice.
—P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
Redhawk 2013 Pinot Gris (Eola-Amity Hills).
This is a good, rich, leesy and immediately
appealing wine, with great texture and a fine mix
of melon, apricot and peach flavors. For the price,
it’s hard to find a better Pinot Gris. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $15
Sokol Blosser 2013 Pinot Gris (Willamette
Valley). Considerably lighter than the previous vintage of Pinot Gris, this mixes cucumber,
gooseberry and grapefruit flavors, with bracing
acidity behind the fruit. It’s a rather delicate wine,
with a balanced palate of fruit flesh, skin and mineral. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
88
Lujon 2013 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley).
Still young and lightly spritzy, this fruity
and well-rounded take on Pinot Gris seems to have
more than a subtle hint of sweetness. The pretty
pear and apple fruit is lightly spicy and spent four
months sur lie, all stainless. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $13
86
Foris 2013 Estate Grown Pinot Gris (Rogue
Valley). An aromatically reserved wine with
notes of apple and melon. It’s medium bodied and
drinks dry, losing some of its concentration in the
middle. —S.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $14
VIOGNIER
88
Reustle 2013 Prayer Rock Vineyards Noah’s
& Jezreel Bloc Viognier (Umpqua Valley). An
aromatic offering with notes of pear, melon and ripe
banana. The oak (85% French, 15% stainless steel)
adds vanilla accents. It drinks close to dry with
abundant melon flavors and a textured feel. —S.S.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $27
88
Valley View 2012 Anna Maria Viognier
(Rogue Valley). An intriguing wine with
WINEMAG.COM | 79
BUYINGGUIDE
notes of dried apricot, lees and honeycomb. The
throttle is pulled back in terms of feel while it still
possesses a lot of richness to the fruit flavors and an
impressively long finish. —S.S.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $18
85
Abacela 2013 Estate Grown Viognier
(Umpqua Valley). Fermented and aged in
stainless steel, this is aromatic, with notes of ripe
peach, melon and honeysuckle. It’s full bodied,
somewhat viscous in feel, carrying considerable alcoholic warmth. —S.S.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $25
OTHER WHITE WINES
90
Adelsheim 2013 Ribbon Springs Vineyard
Auxerrois (Ribbon Ridge). This is another
fine vintage for this rare wine. It’s loaded with cool
climate, mineral-laced scents of grapefruit, kiwi
and melon. A whiff of fennel adds further interest.
Super refreshing and a nice change from the ordinary sipping whites. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
89
Foris 2013 Estate Gewürztraminer (Rogue
Valley). Aromatically exuberant, this offers
notes of lychee, rose petal, spice and citrus rind.
It drinks dry and is lighter in style, with abundant
spices speckling a supremely long finish. Best Buy.
—S.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $14
89
Jezebel 2013 Blanc (Oregon). This wellcrafted blend includes Gewürztraminer,
Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Muscat. The
aromatic varieties dominate, pushing spicy notes
front and center. They’re followed by brightly fruity
flavors of peach, melon and light tropical highlights,
all rounded off with a smidgen of residual sugar.
Quite delightful and perfect for an apéritif or spicy
Asian fare. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
89
Reustle 2013 Prayer Rock Vineyards Talitha
Cumi Bloc Sauvignon Blanc (Umpqua Valley). Unmistakably Sauvignon Blanc, it carries
notes of herbs, citrus and guava. It’s lightly spritzy
and drinks dry with mouthwatering citrus flavors.
Try it with shellfish. —S.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $23
88
Abacela 2013 Estate Grown Albariño
(Umpqua Valley). The enjoyable profile offers notes of green apple, kiwi and tropical fruit. It’s
lighter in style with tart, mouthwatering acidity—
practically screaming out for shellfish. The concentration isn’t all there but the acid carries the day.
—S.S.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $20
88
Brandborg 2012 Riesling (Elkton Oregon).
Aromatically intriguing, this features notes
of crushed green grapes, green apple and botrytis.
80 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
It’s a hair off dry, with nicely balanced acidity and
stone fruit flavors. Best as a dinner table companion. —S.S.
abv: 11.8%
Price: $16
88
Reustle 2011 Prayer Rock Vineyards Engedi
& Onyx Bloc Riesling (Umpqua Valley). A
beguiling wine with notes of green apple, slate and
botrytis. It drinks off dry with tart, mouthwatering
acidity. The concentration isn’t all there throughout
but there is still much to enjoy. —S.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $21
87
Cliff Creek 2013 Marsanne-Roussanne
(Rogue Valley). Equally split between the
two varieties, this conveys light aromas of apple,
pear and barrel spices. The palate is medium bodied with a pleasantly tart finish. The varieties don’t
really distinguish themselves but there there’s still
enjoyment to be had. —S.S.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $22
excellent meal-starter or accompaniment to light
poultry dishes. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
88
Redhawk 2013 Pinot Noir Rosé (Willamette
Valley). Rose petals and strawberries combine in the floral nose, then are underscored with
bracing minerality. There’s just a wisp of sweetness
to leaven the acids. —P.G.
abv: 12%
Price: $17
87
Troon 2013 Dry Rosé (Applegate Valley). An
unusual blend of Sangiovese, Montepulciano
and Primitivo, it’s a pretty pale salmon color and
shows notes of spice, apple and smoke. It drinks dry
with a crisp, savory finish. —S.S.
abv: 11.6%
Price: $18
OREGON
RED WINES
87
RoxyAnn 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Rogue Valley). Despite the 4% Viognier added, the
aromas of guava and pink grapefruit still seem light
and elusive. Tank fermented, it’s clean in feel and
drinks off dry (2.5g/L residual sugar). Good concentration and length make for an ideal patio wine.
—S.S.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $20
87
Troon 2013 Vermentino (Applegate Valley).
With this variety an extreme rarity in Oregon, this offering comes from 1972 plantings that
were grafted over in 2006. It’s medium bodied and
drinks dry with notes of citrus and melon leading to
a smoky finish. —S.S.
abv: 11.6%
Price: $18
ROSÉS
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Lachini 2013 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley). This offers exceptional concentration and power. Sweet strawberry fruit is dense and
detailed, bringing hints of spice and milk chocolate
into play through a long, utterly satisfying finish.
Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $21
89
Sokol Blosser 2013 Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). Grapes for this wine were
cool fermented in stainless steel and bottled quickly. Fresh as a wine can be, this is redolent of rhubarb and strawberries, with a lightly minty/peppery
note. The attention to detail gives the wine body
and length. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
88
Adelsheim 2013 Rosé (Willamette Valley).
This saignée-style rosé is 100% Pinot Noir;
a small percentage was fermented in neutral oak.
Light and pretty, it offers tart raspberry fruit with
a bit of pie cherry also. Generously acidic, it’s an
PINOT NOIR
95
Adelsheim 2012 Winderlea Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Dundee Hills). Sadly, just 64 cases
of the Winderlea were made. With 40-year-old
vines production is limited, but what complexity
and focus can be found here! The fruit is tight and
bright, the acids bring a mix of lemon, lime, orange
and pineapple. The wine seems to romp and cavort
across the tongue, with a mélange of ripe berries,
chocolate and coffee. If you can keep your hands off
it, it should get better and better over through 2025
at least. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $105
94
Adelsheim 2012 Zenith Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Eola-Amity Hills). This vineyard beautifully captures the subtle herbal and earthy characteristics of the AVA, bringing peppery highlights to
ripe fruit flavors of strawberry preserves. The glorious aromatics begin with lavender and run through
blackberries and a suggestion of toast. As with previous vintages, its purity, focus, precision and elegance are exceptional. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $105
94
Elk Cove 2012 La Bohème Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 3.
Cellar Selection.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
94
Lachini 2012 Cuvée Giselle Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Far and away the best
Cuvée Giselle to date, this offers concentrated blue
and purple fruit flavors, set in a frame of perfectly
ripened, balancing tannins. It’s a barrel selection,
reserve-level wine, with finishing streaks of coffee
and dark chocolate. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $72
94
Sineann 2013 Yates Conwill Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). This superb
site—adjacent to the famed Resonance vineyard—
delivers impressive concentration and purity of
fruit. Deep flavors of raspberry, red plum and sweet
cherry are balanced with refreshing acidity. Although flavors are young and primary at this point,
this clearly has the depth and complexity to be cellared through 2025. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $42
94
Sokol Blosser 2011 Goosepen Block Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Once again the
Goosepen Block Pinot stands at the head of a very
good class. It is elegant and racy, with an expressive,
yet delicate mix of berries, rose petals and iron filings. It truly reflects the classic iron fist in the velvet glove nature of the very finest Pinot Noir. Cellar
Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $80
93
Adelsheim 2012 Nicholas Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Chehalem Mountains). Framed beautifully
with scents and flavors of toasted hazelnut (the
property was orginally a walnut, hazelnut and plum
orchard), this builds its substantial core around
deep black cherry fruit. The density and length are
impressive, and though delicious already, it will
surely gain in complexity with further aging. Drink
now through 2025. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $105
93
Adelsheim 2012 Temperance Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). There is a marvelous intensity from the first sniff to the last swallow of this excellent wine. Spicy and penetrating,
it augments ripe strawberry and cherry fruit with
details of herb and pepper. With power to spare,
it remains an elegant, even pretty Pinot. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $75
93
Aubichon Cellars 2012 Vista Hills Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). Good grip and detail highlight this vineyard designate. Smoke, pipe tobacco, a
whiff of cigar and a spicy edge bringing in cinnamon
and clove are all well-matched to the ripe, plush
fruit. Length and complexity make this a standout.
Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $55
93
Lange 2012 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). Lush aromatics instantly alert you that this is an exceptional year for
this vineyard. Aged in half new French oak, the wine
takes it in stride, as it is dense with spicy red berry
and plum flavors, and beautifully balanced throughout. Streaks of coffee and nut butter add to the compelling complexity, even at such a young age. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $70
93
Le Cadeau 2012 Merci Reserve Pinot Noir
(Chehalem Mountains). Extra-fine concentration, balance and detail strikes a lovely chord in
this exemplary bottle. A peppery mix of berry and
cherry, cola and coffee flavors gathers strength and
focus as it rolls across the palate and into a long and
satisfying finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $80
93
Sineann 2013 TFL Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley). This is a Yates Conwill vineyard reserve selection, which the winery labels “the best
Pinot we made in 2013.” It’s right up there, to be
sure, with power and elegance to spare. The perfect
mix of berry and cherry primary fruit, balanced
with natural acidity, was finished with a brief time
in new oak, yielding accents of chocolate, nougat
and caramel. Released in half-bottles only, so drink
it by 2020. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $NA/375 ml
93
Sokol Blosser 2011 Orchard Block Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). More than any other 2011
block designate from Sokol Blosser, the Orchard
Block brings the rich black cherry fruit for which
the Dundee Hills are famous. Still young and made
from relatively young (11-year-old) vines, it’s nicely
concentrated, with streaks of cola and brown baking spices threaded through. A finishing lick of mocha puts a final smile on your lips. Editors’ Choice.
—P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $70
92
Adelsheim 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This is an impressive effort, especially
considering it is the winery’s mass-production cuvée. All in proportion, it’s built upon an acid/mineral base, with tangy, just-ripe berry fruit. It feels
quite delicate, yet has the persistence and structure
of a more substantial wine. Aged for 10 months in
one-quarter new French oak, it’s worth tucking a
few bottles away for a long-term look. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $32
92
Adelsheim 2012 Calkins Lane Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Raspberries, a
hint of mint and some tea flavors highlighting the
tannins are the first impressions. Young, bright,
juicy and concentrated, this wine seems sure to improve through 2020 or longer. If you want to drink
it young, give it a good hour of decanting first. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $75
92
Adelsheim 2012 Elizabeth’s Reserve Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley). Soft and seductive,
this wine is seriously sexy with its palate-coating
flavor-fest that runs from bright, crisp raspberry
into ripe Bing cherry. Lemony acids underscore the
lush fruit, and 10 months aging in one-third new
barrels brings finishing highlights of caramel and
toasted coconut. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
92
Adelsheim 2012 Ribbon Springs Vineyard Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Ribbon Springs is
the principal source for Adelsheim Pinots, so this
vineyard selection is essentially a reserve. As with
all these limited offerings, it impresses with rich
aromatics and a plush mix of red berries, pomegran-
ate and cherry fruit. There’s a whiff of chamomile,
a hint of animal, and the structure to age nicely
through 2025. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $75
92
Aubichon Cellars 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). This shows some extra concentration in its plum and cherry fruit. The
mouthfeel has a pleasing texture, and the streaks of
herb and cola are nicely integrated. As with many
of the wines of this vintage, it’s forward and fruitdriven and ready for immediate enjoyment. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
92
Elk Cove 2012 Five Mountain Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 6.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $60
92
Evening Land 2012 Seven Springs Vineyard
La Source Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Aromatic, with an elegant blend of mountain berries,
just-ripe cherries and a refreshing minerality, this
estate-grown fruit is farmed organically and biodynamically. The balance and detail are impressive.
Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $70
92
Lachini 2012 Lachini Family Estate Pinot Noir
(Chehalem Mountains). A deep rose color,
this pretty wine seduces with sweet cherry and red
plum fruit, rounded out with a dollop of cinnamon
spice and buoyed with moderate acidity. Full, forward, flavorful and built for medium-term aging,
this should be enjoyed now through 2020. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
92
Lange 2012 Lange Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). A hint of funk and a brambly character enhances this bright, textured wine.
The fresh berry flavors carry light touches of baking
spice, bark and toast. The tannins remain a bit stiff
and should soften up a bit with further bottle age.
Every element is in perfect proportion. —P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $70
92
Lange 2012 Yamhill-Carlton Assemblage Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Carefully
distinguished from the other Lange Pinots, this cuvée marries thick cherry fruit to highlights of cola,
anise and earth. The winery’s defining trait is crafting wines with impeccable balance, that are already
seamless and highly approachable upon release, yet
have the style and substance for cellaring over the
next 8–10 years. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $70
92
Le Cadeau 2012 Équinoxe Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Especially rich and complex in this outstanding vintage, this brings bright
and deeply flavored cherry fruit front and center.
There’s a streak of chocolate and a whiff of composted earth—not too much. As the wine lingers
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BUYINGGUIDE
through its finish, the luscious fruit impresses the
most. —P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $50
92
Panther Creek 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Wines such as this prove
that the so-called difficult 2011 vintage produced
some truly exceptional Pinots in Oregon. A ridge
of chocolate runs through a core of tangy plum and
berry fruit. Hints of candied citrus peel elevate both
the aromas and the finishing flavors. A strong base
of crisp acidity suggests that this will cellar well
through 2025 or longer. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50
92
Sokol Blosser 2011 Big Tree Block Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). A whiff of Bourbon and vanilla introduces this block selection, then leads into
a fine-tuned palate with blue plum, cola, clean earth
and graphite. It’s elegant without being thin, and
pushes through gracefully to a lingering, perfectly
balanced finish. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $70
91
Adelsheim 2012 Boulder Bluff Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Aromas of sandalwood, curry, cumin and toast rise up from the
glass, while the cranberry/black cherry fruit leaves
an impression of rock at its core. Immaculate and
very young, this suggests a wine whose complexity
is still sheathed in the primary, fruit-driven flavors
of the vintage. Drink 2017–2025. Cellar Selection.
—P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $75
91
Aubichon Cellars 2012 Armstrong Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Ripe and forward,
this is powered with a generous mix of Asian spices,
brown sugar and ripe, plummy fruit. A whiff of cedar accompanies pleasing complexity as it weaves
along to a full-throttle finish. Drink now–2020.
—P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
91
Evening Land 2012 Seven Springs Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Perfectly capturing the AVA’s signature mix of herb, leaf, wild
berry and white pepper in a compelling nose, this
rolls into a full midpalate that is flush with tangy
pie-cherry fruit. Some tasters may find it pushes
a bit too far toward the herbal flavors. The overall
balance is lovely. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $50
91
Lachini 2010 Prima Pinot Noir (Chehalem
Mountains). This is the first release for Prima,
which the winery calls its “ultra premium wine.”
Where most such super-reserves are bigger, bolder,
riper than the rest of the lineup, this one is lighter,
more elegant and refined. In part that’s a function
of the cool 2010 vintage. It’s tart and already moving from primary to secondary fruit flavors, showing
strawberry and watermelon, a touch of herb, seed
and light chocolate. Drink now through 2018. —P.G.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $85
82 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
91
Lange 2012 Three Hills Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). From an outstanding vintage
in the Willamette Valley, here’s a beautifully blended Pinot with impressive concentration and detail.
Spicy berry and red plum fruit is speckled with
chocolate drops, coffee beans and a whiff of clean
straw. Drink any time; it’s ready to go. —P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $50
91
Le Cadeau 2012 Diversité Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Toasty and rich, this offers
generous blackberry and black cherry fruit, scented
with cigarbox and streaked with veins of dark chocolate. It’s long and supple, matching instant flavor
appeal to long-term cellar potential. Drink now
through 2025. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $50
91
Le Cadeau 2012 Rocheux Reserve Pinot Noir
(Chehalem Mountains). Production is down,
quality, cost and finished alcohol are all up for this
estate-grown designate, now labeled as a reserve.
There’s a sniff of leather and underripe blackberry and black cherry fruit, along with a somewhat
unusual, though not unpleasant, scent of chicken
boullion. The wine opens up quickly but stops just a
bit short of a full-length finish. Give it extra breathing time if you plan to drink it soon. —P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $80
91
Panther Creek 2010 Shea Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). The tart berry fruit flavors seem etched in place, as they are
framed with sleek tannins, bright acidity and a sliver of steel. Aged 16 months in 30% new French oak,
this wine seems to be somewhat shuttered, and has
the structure to age well. Drink 2016–2024. Cellar
Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50
91
Redhawk 2012 Redhawk Estate Pinot Noir
(Eola-Amity Hills). For full review see page 9.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $22
91
Sineann 2013 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Forward
and already packed with subtle details, this
bursts forth with red plum and cherry fruit, backed
with juicy acidity. The acids carry a bit of orange
flavor into a balanced, extended finish with a lick of
milk chocolate. Delicious now and crafted for enjoyment through 2020 or more. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $30
91
Sokol Blosser 2011 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). The Dundee Hills cuvée shows
the tight, tart, higher acidity that is characteristic of
the 2011 Pinots from the Willamette Valley. It spent
16 months in 45% new barrels and offers raspberry
and cranberry fruit with grippy tannins and a mineral base. Drink now though 2025. —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $38
91
Sokol Blosser 2011 Estate Cuvée Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). A bit more precision is evi-
dent here when contrasted with the more widely
available Dundee Hills bottling. The relatively narrow bandwidth offers cranberry, strawberry and
raspberry flavors, with lingering minerality. It has
focus and balance, but needs more bottle age to
blossom fully. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $60
91
Sokol Blosser 2011 Peach Tree Block Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). This shows a bit more of the
herbal side of the 2011s, wrapping peppery notes
around light strawberry fruit. Barrel-aged for 15
months in 44% new French oak, it’s still filling in
and benefits from extended breathing. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $70
91
Stoller 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills).
This cool vintage helps keep the alcohol
down, but the seductive aromatics more than compensate. Varietal nuances of rosewater and other
floral overtones enhance a rather delicate, elegant
reserve. Raspberry fruit and highlights of baking
spices continue through a persistent finish. —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $45
91
Willful 2012 Winemaker Cuvée Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). Willful is the reincarnation
of Daedalus, launched with this 2012 vintage. All
Pommard clone and 95% estate-grown, this aromatic, welcoming wine brings nuanced black cherry and cola scents and flavors into focus. Lightly
spiced, rather soft and open, it’s a lovely example of
the strengths of the 2012 vintage. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $45
90
Adelsheim 2012 Quarter Mile Lane Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Sourced
from estate vines planted in 1972, this is historic,
yet not quite as rich in the details that some newer
Pinot clones might provide. Cranberry and raspberry fruit hit the palate in a tangy twirl, with a
kiss of oak from 25% new French barrels. It’s wellbalanced and fresh, with a chance to improve considerably with a few more years of bottle age; try
after 2017. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $125
90
Evening Land 2012 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity
Hills). Red fruits abound in this lovely bottle, notably cherries galor. There’s a streak of sweet
orange, underscored with bracing acidity, a lick of
cola, and balanced, supporting tannins. The wine
thins out just a bit sooner than one might wish for.
—P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $40
90
Pali 2012 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Pali’s relationship with Shea
vineyard grapes goes back at least eight vintages.
Done in a lighter style, this new release spent 10
months in 25% new oak. It’s pretty, with beguiling flavors of raspberry and red plum, and a vein of
minerally acidity that runs through the core. It’s ap-
proachable now, but should age well through 2020.
—P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $56
90
Panther Creek 2012 Winemaker’s Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This is a fine
representation of the high-quality, fruit-laden 2012
vintage. Forward and ripe, it’s packed with cherry
fruit that shows a bit of candy at its center, then
rolls into a lingering finish with hints of spice and
caramel. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
90
Redhawk 2012 Pataccoli Family Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Sourced from
35-year-old vines, this offers both elegance and
structure in a fairly light, nicely composed wine
with interesting details. Its berry fruit has a vein of
iron ore, and continues with some deft barrel flavors
of nougat and toast. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $35
90
Sokol Blosser 2012 Delinea 300 Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). The 300 designation
is the altitude at which the two vineyard soils mingle. This cuvée sees no wood. Aromatic and spicy, it
shows bright berry fruit, hints of bitter greens and
a streak of cola syrup. Excellent density and concentration for an Oregon Pinot in this price range.
Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
90
Stoller 2012 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Entirely sourced from the estate vineyard,
this is loaded with black cherry fruit, as befits its
Dundee Hills location. There’s a bit of root beer in
evidence, and a modest but complete palate with
relatively soft, approachable tannins. Drink this
vintage young for optimal enjoyment. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $25
90
Stoller 2011 Nancy’s Pinot Noir (Dundee
Hills). A companion to the Helen’s designate, this shows the same black cherry core, here
with a streak of iron ore down the middle. Flavorful
and rather fruity, its moderate acidity carries a hint
of lemon. —P.G.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $70
90
Willful 2012 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Willful is the successor to Daedalus. Still quite
tight, the regular Dundee Hills bottling has medium
concentration and well-ripened strawberry, raspberry and black cherry fruit. Some rose petal aromatics and a streak of cherry cola add complexity
and depth. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $35
90
Winter’s Hill 2012 Block 10 Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). A Pommard clone, singleblock bottling, this is the most complete and satisfying of the winery’s block series of Pinots. Cinnamon toast frames a full-bodied wine loaded with
blackberry fruit. —P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $44
89
Adelsheim 2012 Bryan Creek Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Chehalem Mountains). At first impression, this wine seems a bit less ripe than its singlevineyard siblings. A hint of tomato in the nose gives
an herbal edge, and there is more than enough tart
acidity under the light red fruits. It’s clean and refreshing, with tasty raspberry fruit, but does not
show the density and detail of the other 2012 vineyard designates. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $80
89
Aubichon Cellars 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Undeniably riper than the
2011, this soft and smooth wine offers pretty red
plum and cherry pit flavors, lightly spicy and supple. Lovely though it is, the wine tilts toward a hightoned finish, suggesting that it’s best consumed
young. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $37
black cherry cola and brambly berries. It’s soft and
sumptuous in feel, full of fruit flavors and loaded
with appeal. —S.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $20
88
Joleté 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley).
This brings substantial density to the midpalate, mixing fresh flavors of strawberry, cherry
cola and malted chocolate. It gains focus and grip
as it breathes open. A slim frame of stem and earth
sets up the finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $28
88
Joleté 2012 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Ready for
immediate enjoyment, this offers a lifted
nose of rose petals and cherry blossoms, carrying
a slight whiff of milk chocolate. The fruit has a tart,
cranberry character, moving up into Bing cherry flavors with plenty of crisp acidity. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $22
89
88
89
88
Brandborg 2012 Ferris Wheel Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Elkton Oregon). A direct
reflection of the 2012 vintage, with notes of wild
strawberry, sarsaparilla, clove and cinnamon. The
flavors are medium bodied in style, juicy and appealing. —S.S.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $38
Redhawk 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Redhawk makes an interesting lineup
of value-oriented Pinots, this one just a cut above
their popular Grateful Red. Medium bodied, it carries fruit flavors of raspberry and plum, with a hint
of dark chocolate from aging 13 months in 20% new
oak. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $20
89
Stoller
Hills).
extra dollop of
fruit. It’s a bit
—P.G.
abv: 12.6%
2011 Helen’s Pinot Noir (Dundee
This limited-edition wine has an
tannin and full-bodied black cherry
blocky and veers toward simplicity.
Price: $70
89
Willful 2012 Northridge Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Eola-Amity Hills). Willful is the reincarnation of Daedalus. The grapes are picked at low yields
and fermented with native yeast. Here the Northridge vineyard fruit offers tart blue plum and black
cherry flavors, with stiff tannins that carry some
stem and herb character. Decanting or aerating
helps to open it up and pull out more fruit. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $35
89
Winter’s Hill 2012 Block 4 Pinot Noir (Dundee
Hills). A Pommard clone, single-block bottling, this is jangly and tart, with pleasantly tangy
raspberry and cherry candy fruit flavors. The promising beginning is not matched with the depth and
complexity that a more complete blend would offer.
—P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $44
88
Foris 2012 Pinot Noir (Rogue Valley). An
aromatic, fruit-forward wine with notes of
Redhawk 2012 Grateful Red Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Light and charming, this
slips into gear gently and then surprises with some
tannic grip. Flavors combine root beer and strawberry highlights. For Willamette Valley Pinot Noir,
it offers exceptional value. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $18
Winter’s Hill 2012 Block 9-115 Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). From a series of singleclone, single-block bottlings, this is a good companion to the 114 clone. Here the mouthfeel is more
substantial, the tart raspberry fruit underscored
with slightly chalky acidity and a streak of graphite.
—P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $44
87
Irvine Family Vineyards 2011 Ashland Pinot
Noir (Oregon). This smells considerably
more developed than its age would indicate, with
notes of dried cranberries and cherries mixed with
barrel spices and game. The palate brings more heft
than expected at the labeled alcohol level, with
abundant cranberry flavors throughout. —S.S.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $35
87
J. Scott Cellars 2012 Grace Hill Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley). This falls on the
light side, with appealing flavors of strawberry and
cherry candy. The tannins are just thick enough to
give an edge. It’s rare to find vineyard-designated
Pinots in this price range. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $26
87
Jezebel 2013 Pinot Noir (Oregon). A smoky
nose carries a strong suggestion of bacon
fat, wrapped around tightly wound blackberry fruit.
Flavors play out broadly and thin out quickly, but
this young wine offers solid value and immediate
pleasure. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
87
Reustle 2012 Pishon Bloc Pinot Noir (Umpqua
Valley). Aged in mostly new French oak, this
WINEMAG.COM | 83
BUYINGGUIDE
wine’s barrel influences stand out. Notes of coffee
and cinnamon come alongside herbs and brown
stems, with the oak bringing some grit to the tannins. —S.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $34
87
Reustle 2012 Winemaker’s Reserve Pinot
Noir (Umpqua Valley). Straightforward and
pleasant, this offers notes of coffee, dusky spices,
cherry and cola. It’s medium-plus bodied, with the
tannins giving a tacky feel. —S.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $39
87
Swiftwater Cellars 2011 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). A deep rose color, this is
scented with beetroot, cherry foam and chocolate.
In the mouth it turns astringent, carrying similar
flavors into a finish with a liberal amount of stem
and earth. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
87
Treos 2012 Elegant Reserve Estate Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). This wine is unquestionably about power and punch, not subtlety. Superripe fruit flavors of kirsch and dark, toasty, coffee liqueur coat the palate. It’s flavorful, but not a
trace of varietal character remains. —P.G.
abv: 15%
Price: $48
87
Treos 2012 Founders Choice Estate Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). This is Pinot for Syrah
lovers. It’s saturated and intensely spicy, with liquorous black fruits swathed in Christmas cake
baking spices. Espresso and dark chocolate come
into the mix also, as well as some lingering stem flavors in the finish. —P.G.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $48
87
Winter’s Hill 2012 Block 9-114 Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). From a series of single-clone,
single-block bottlings, this is a sharp-toned, slightly volatile wine with bright, tight, cherry fruit flavors. It’s a good starting point for a blend, but feels
incomplete on its own. —P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $44
86
Foris 2012 Maple Ranch Estate Pinot Noir
(Rogue Valley). Vibrantly fruity, it offers
aromas of currant, raspberry, celery stalk and spice.
The palate has tart cranberry flavors, finishing a bit
short. —S.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $35
86
Windy Bay 2012 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Aromatically appealing, it features notes of allspice, herbs, cola and cherry. The palate is lighter in
style with a scrape-y feel, not fully delivering on all
that the aromas have to offer. —S.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
84 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
RED BLENDS
92
Troon 2011 Old Vine Meritage (Applegate
Valley). For full review see page 8. Cellar
Selection.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
90
RoxyAnn 2011 Honor Barn Red (Rogue Valley). Made from 75% Syrah with the rest
Malbec and a smidgeon of Cabernet Sauvignon,
it brings notes of dried cherry, vanilla and barrel
spices. The palate is luscious and rich with abundant cherry flavors and barrel accents leading to a
cranberry-filled finish. —S.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $18
90
Sineann 2012 Abondante (Columbia Valley). Principally a Bordeaux-style blend,
with some Oregon Zinfandel included, this is toasty
and dark, a muscular wine offering strawberry
preserves, cassis, cola and a swirl of smoke. Quite
young and fruit-powered, it’s got the concentration
to develop further 2018–2020. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $24
88
Dominio IV 2011 Technicolor Bat Three
Sleeps Vineyard Tempranillo-Syrah (Columbia Gorge). Though the blend leans heavily toward
Tempranillo, it’s the Syrah (16%) that shows itself
with its notes of black pepper and smoked meat.
The palate is on the lighter side of medium bodied,
with tart, lively acidity and chalky firm tannins that
need some time to settle. Best at the dinner table.
—S.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23
87
Abacela NV Vintner’s Blend #14 Red Table
Wine (Southern Oregon). A kitchen sinkstyle blend of Tempranillo, Syrah, Malbec, Merlot,
Dolcetto, Bastardo, Graciano and Petit Verdot, it
puts an accent on fresh fruit with notes of raspberry and crushed plum. The palate’s new-oak influence is limited (5%), letting the lighter-style fruit
flavors, tart acids and firm tannins stand on their
own. An ideal pizza/pasta wine. —S.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
SYRAH
89
Dominio IV 2009 The Purple Flower Three
Sleeps Vineyard Syrah (Columbia Gorge). A
unique wine with notes of smoke, citrus, leather
and balsamic. The palate has a lovely texture that
only improves with additional time open. —S.S.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $42
87
Dominio IV 2009 Old Man Looking East Estate Syrah (Columbia Gorge). Though just
five years old, this wine seems advanced, with notes
of pencil box, leather, dried orange peel, mesquite
and brown spices. There’s still plenty of juicy acid
to be had that provides interest with some grit to
the tannins. —S.S.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $30
87
Reustle 2012 Prayer Rock Vineyards Gloria’s
Syrah (Umpqua Valley). This intriguing wine
conveys aromas of coffee bean and barrel spices.
The palate is restrained with a low-alcohol feel and
coffee flavors. The concentration isn’t all there but
it still piques the interest. —S.S.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $42
87
Reustle 2012 Prayer Rock Vineyards Winemaker’s Reserve Syrah (Umpqua Valley).
Lightly aromatic, it offers notes of pencil shavings,
dark fruit, coffee and pepper. It’s medium bodied
with a lower alcohol feel and abundant coffee flavors backed by gritty tannins. —S.S.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $39
86
Reustle 2012 Masada Bloc in Prayer Rock
Vineyards Syrah (Umpqua Valley). Quite
lightly aromatic, it offers hints of barrel spice, cocoa, herbs and red fruit. The palate has coffee ice
cream and vanilla flavors with a compact yet elegant
feel, showing some grit to the tannins. —S.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $32
TEMPRANILLO
92
Dominio IV 2006 Tango Estate Reserve Tempranillo (Columbia Gorge). Coming from
four different Tempranillo clones planted at the
winery’s estate vineyard, it beguiles with notes of
saddle leather, dried cherry, dusky spices and citrus
spritz. The fruit flavors are polished and the tannins
structured—a thoroughly delightful bottle. Editors’
Choice. —S.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $42
88
Dominio IV 2009 Midnight Skies Estate
Tempranillo (Columbia Gorge). Though already five years old, this wine still seems to need
time. Notes of cocoa, coffee, pencil eraser and dusky
spices are still coming into their own. The acidity
is fresh with some dryness to the tannins that provides a bit of distraction but may just need some
additional time to settle. —S.S.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $25
87
Reustle 2012 Winemaker’s Reserve Tempranillo (Umpqua Valley). After starting out
reductive, it’s moderately aromatic with notes of
pencil eraser, vanilla and cocoa. The palate is medium bodied with the oak a bit overweighted for
the fruit that is in the bottle, finishing with coffee
flavors. —S.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $39
85
Reustle 2012 Timnah Bloc Tempranillo
(Umpqua Valley). Moderately aromatic, this
offers notes of pepper, spice and plum along with
high-toned vanilla accents. It’s medium bodied,
with sweet blackberry flavors and dry, astringent
tannins. —S.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $29
flavors, slightly chalky tannins and a bitter note on
the finish. —S.S.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $22
85
85
RoxyAnn 2011 Tempranillo (Rogue Valley).
The aromas show some oxygen exposure,
which distracts from the palate’s sweet cherry flavors and vanilla accents. Tasted twice with consistent notes. —S.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $26
Reustle 2012 Golgotha Bloc Malbec (Umpqua
Valley). This starts reductive and funky before showing notes of plum, pepper and woodspice.
The palate is on the lighter side of medium bodied,
with an astringent feel to the tannins and a cinnamon-filled finish. —S.S.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $31
OTHER RED WINES
92
Seven Hills 2012 McClellan Estate Vineyard
Reserve Malbec (Walla Walla Valley). This is
the first reserve Malbec from Seven Hills, the winery that first introduced this as a varietal wine in
the Walla Walla Valley. Inviting aromas of pepper,
coffee, vanilla and cream introduce a dark and sappy
wine, with concentrated raspberry and blackberry
fruit at its core. Superb ripeness and lift from the
juicy acidity mark this as indeed reserve-level in
quality. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $45
91
Seven Hills 2012 McClellan Estate Vineyard
Cabernet Franc (Walla Walla Valley). Pure,
estate-grown Cabernet Franc, this is focused and
spicy, with hard-packed black fruits in abundance.
Initially showing lush aromatics with plenty of baking spices, it’s also threaded with graphite, black
coffee and a whiff of smoke off the grill. This needs
decanting or better yet, some further cellar time; try
after 2017. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $35
89
Silvan Ridge 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Rogue Valley). Fairly aromatic, it conveys
notes of red and black fruit, savory herbs, toffee and
barrel spices. Lighter in style, it shows abundant
vanilla flavors while still bringing a lovely sense of
texture and overall balance. —S.S.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $28
88
Troon 2012 Estate Zinfandel (Applegate
Valley). This expressive wine has notes of
vanilla, whiskey barrel and dried red fruit. It’s ripe
and full but without all of the alcoholic weight that
this variety sometimes brings. Some grit to the tannins provides a bit of distraction. —S.S.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $29
87
Cliff Creek 2008 Sam’s Valley Vineyard Estate
Grown Cabernet Franc (Southern Oregon).
This pretty expression of Cabernet Franc delivers
notes of carob, flowers and maraschino cherry. It’s
lighter in style with tart flavors and quite chalky
tannins. —S.S.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $28
87
Cliff Creek 2010 Sam’s Valley Vineyard Estate
Grown Merlot (Rogue Valley). This enjoyable
wine has notes of cherry, herbs, pencil eraser and
barrel spices. It’s medium bodied with plump fruit
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SPIRITS
Super smooth: blended whiskeys
H
ow to describe blended whiskeys in one
batch after batch in the name of uniformity.
word? Consistent.
No wonder Dr. Nick Morgan, head of whisky
Sure, they can be other things, too.
outreach for Diageo, declares that “blending is
Smooth is frequently used to describe
the most special skill.” The company’s portfolio
blends. So are flavorful, smoky, fruity and rich.
includes a wide range of storied, big-personalBut whatever adjective is applied to that bottle,
ity single malts such as Lagavulin, Talisker and
you can count on the same description year afOban, but it’s perhaps best known for its more
ter year. That consistency is deaccessible blended Scotch—
liberate—and it’s with good reanamely, Johnnie Walker.
“No one wants to
son that whiskey-lovers call for
Yet, Dr. Morgan laments,
their favorite blends by name.
talk about blends “No one wants to talk about
People may know how to orblends because they’re boring.”
because they’re
der their favorites, but there’s
Consistent? Yes. But blends
boring.” Consissome confusion about how to
surely don’t have to be boring.
tent? Yes. But
spell them—whiskey vs. whisky.
Of course, Scotch isn’t
A good way to remember: Counblends surely don’t the only blended whiskey
tries with “e” in their name—like
have to be boring. out there—and “consistent”
the United States and Ireland—
doesn’t mean homogeneous. Inspell it whiskey/whiskeys. Coundeed, the provenance of blendtries without the “e” (including Scotland, Canada
eds is quite diverse. Among American whiskeys,
and Japan) use whisky/whiskies.
we love to sing the praises of our favorite sinWhen it comes to making whisk(e)y, distilgle-barrel bottlings, but a great many Bourbons
lation is a science—the calculation of the mash
and more are made by blending the liquid from
bill, the fermentation that converts sugars to althose barrels together. See, too, the blended
cohol, the shiny stills that create and condense
beauties hailing from Canada, Ireland and Javapors into white dog. But blending is an art:
pan—even a French whisky is included in this
Master blenders can mix any number of differmonth’s crop of reviews.
ent whiskeys into the house recipe, tweaking it
—Kara Newman
98
The Classic Cask Rare Scotch Whisky Single
Batch 40 (Scotland; Spirit Imports, Sunrise, FL). Distilled in 1972 and bottled in 2012,
this 40-year-old blended Scotch is special. The
nut-brown hue and rich aromas of sweet spice and
brown sugar hint at what’s to come. It delivers bold,
complex flavor: rounded toffee, allspice, leather, tea
and oak, with a mouthwatering saline note and a
long but gentle finish.
abv: 43%
Price: $400
96
Chivas Regal 18 Years (Scotland; Pernod Ricard, New York, NY). Amber and bright in
the glass, this 18-year-old blended whisky melds
vanilla, cigar wrapper and chamomile tea notes with
nutmeg and cinnamon spice, plus a delicate puff of
sweet smoke. Feels light and silky, finishes long and
gently.
abv: 40%
Price: $75
86 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
96
Dewar’s 18 (Scotland; Bacardi USA, Coral
Gables, FL). This golden blended Scotch is
remarkably complex, showing creamy vanilla, crème
brûlée and almond before tapering to dry, warm
notes of cedar, sandalwood and clove. Finishes long
and feather-light, with just a trace of smokiness.
abv: 40%
Price: $80
95
Taketsuru Pure Malt 21 Year Old (Japan; Anchor Distilling, San Francisco, CA). Scented
with honey and dried apricots, this blended Japanese whisky is remarkably soft for a 21-year-old
bottling, with just the evidence of oak tannins as a
reminder of age. Complex flavors included mellow,
rounded vanilla and caramel, peach and apricot, orange peel, plus a light cover of smoke fading to toffee
and citrus on the long finish.
abv: 43%
Price: $180
Chivas Regal 25 (Scotland; Pernod Ricard,
New York, NY). Velvety and complex, this
blended whisky mixes light smoke and butterscotch
aromas. On the palate, look for bold toffee and oak,
baked apple and cedar-clove spice wrapped in moderate peatiness, which also winds into the drying
finish.
abv: 40%
Price: $260
94
Crown Royal Monarch 75th Anniversary
Blend (Canada; Diageo, Norwalk, CT). A limited-edition bottling to commemorate the brand’s
75th anniversary, this luscious, full-bodied whisky
mixes creamy mouth-coating vanilla, baked apple,
crème brûlée and butterscotch, finishing long, warm
and spiced. Consider this mellow, balanced whisky
for a dessert pairing or post-prandial sipper.
abv: 40%
Price: $75
94
Dewar’s 12 (Scotland; Bacardi USA, Coral Gables, FL). Possibly one of the best-balanced
whiskies around—which is what blending is all
about—this honey-hued Scotch measures out fruit,
smoke, oak and spice. The fresh, enticing scent incorporates fresh apple, orange peel and milky caramel. On the palate, light smokiness up front gives
way to more vanilla and fruit, winding into the long
baking-spice finish. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $30
94
Johnnie Walker Platinum Label (Scotland;
Diageo, Norwalk, CT). Aged 18 years, this
“private blend,” added to the line-up in 2013, is
supple and smooth. It has a vibrant topaz tint and
bold orange peel and honey notes underpinned by
light smokiness. The smoky notes gently crest with
each additional sip.
abv: 40%
Price: $110
93
Chivas Regal 12 (Scotland; Pernod Ricard,
New York, NY). Light, mellow and mildly
spiced, this 12-year-old blended Scotch offers rich
vanilla, honey and crème brûlée notes, finishing
long with citrus and spice. Feels soft and easy to
enjoy. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $30
93
Monkey Shoulder (Scotland; William Grant &
Sons, New York, NY). Intended for mixing, so
bring on the whisky sours and the Blood & Sands.
Or drink this blended Scotch straight if you choose,
to enjoy mouthwatering butterscotch and juicy orange, balanced by oaky tannins into the finish. Best
Buy.
abv: 43%
Price: $32
93
Johnnie Walker Blue Label (Scotland; Diageo,
Norwalk, CT). Featured as a blend of Johnnie Walker’s rarest whiskies, this Scotch billows
with sweet cigar smoke from the very first sip. Underneath that, look for vanilla, oak and dry cocoa,
finishing dry and spicy with cigar wrapper, allspice
and clove, plus a mouthwatering saline note.
abv: 40%
Price: $225
93
Taketsuru Pure Malt 17 Year Old (Japan; Anchor Distilling, San Francisco, CA). Bright yellow-gold in the glass, this Japanese blended whisky
offers vanilla and cereal aromas, plus a faint white
floral note. It evolves on the palate, starting silky
and light. Smoke accelerates mid-sip, then evaporates into a honey-vanilla note on the long finish.
Made with whisky from a combination of casks, including Sherry.
abv: 43%
Price: $150
92
Big Peat (Scotland; International Spirits &
Wines, Mt. Kisco, NY). The name says it all:
this Scotch is blended from “a shovelful” of Islay
single malts, including Ardbeg, Caol Ila, Bowmore
and Port Ellen—producers of some of the peatiest Scotches around. The bold iodine aroma is like
breathing salt air at the seashore, and is just subtly
smoky. On the palate, expect fleeting vanilla sweetness followed by a huge rush of peat smoke, which
pulls back to finish with campfire s’mores and bitter
chocolate notes.
abv: 46%
Price: $60
92
Johnnie Walker Gold Label Reserve (Scotland; Diageo, Norwalk, CT). Packaged in a
limited-edition bottle that gleams like an Oscar
statuette, this “Master Blender’s Reserve” is hard
to miss. The aroma shows baked apple and a hint
of smoke. Lots of caramel coats the palate at first,
followed by dry leather and a malty note, finishing
with a gentle waft of light smoke.
abv: 40%
Price: $87
92
Sweet Wee Scallywag (Scotland; International Spirits & Wines, Mt. Kisco, NY). As
the name and Scottish fox terrier on the whimsical label suggest, this is a playful Scotch, blended
from Speyside malts matured in former Sherry and
Bourbon casks. The fresh scent mingles apple and
vanilla. Flavors seem to tumble over one another.
Smokiness leads on the palate, followed by richer
notes of vanilla, rounded caramel, nutmeg, a touch
of lemon cream, then campfire smoke again on the
exit.
abv: 46%
Price: $65
92
The Irishman Founder’s Reserve Small Batch
Irish Whiskey (Ireland; Palm Bay International, Port Washington, NY). For full review see page 13.
Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $30
91
Bastille 1789 Whisky (France; Palm Bay International, Port Washington, NY). For full review see page 13. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $30
91
Campbeltown Loch (Scotland; International
Spirits & Wines, Mt Kisco, NY). This blended
Scotch has a fresh, honeyed scent with a touch of
white flowers. The palate is surprised by light smokiness, but beneath that expect light vanilla, honey
and juicy green apple. Each sip concludes with an
elegant taper of smoke. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $36
ing into a baking-spice finish featuring nutmeg and
cinnamon. Recommended for mixing.
abv: 40%
Price: $25
91
89
Crown Royal XO (Canada; Diageo, Norwalk,
CT). Made with a blend of more than 50
whiskies and then finished in former Cognac casks,
this mellow, honey-hued sipper offers vanilla,
creamy caramel and fresh apple notes, finishing
moderately long with allspice and cinnamon.
abv: 40%
Price: $50
91
Pig’s Nose Blended Scotch Whisky (Scotland;
Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY). So
named for texture “as soft and smooth as a pig’s
nose,” this five-year-old whisky has a bright golden
tint and mild notes that balance fruit and sweet vanilla. Add a splash of water to bring out light smokiness and still more vanilla. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $35
91
SIA Blended Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Spirit
Imports, Sunrise, FL). Relatively light and
delicate, this light-gold whisky might serve as an
apéritif or cocktail mixer. Look for a fresh, grassy
scent and fleeting, mouthwatering notes of vanilla,
tropical fruit and a brief hint of saline. A whiff of
smoke breezes by on the finish, dispersing quickly.
abv: 43%
Price: $50
90
Cutty Sark Prohibition Edition (Scotland;
Remy Cointreau USA, New York, NY). Intended as a salute to Prohibition-era smuggler
Captain William McCoy, this bold—even rugged—
golden whisky has a rich honeyed aroma accented
with pear. A beer-like effervescence and hoppiness
surprises the palate, cutting the otherwise rich caramel and maple notes before winding into lingering touches of cigar smoke, toffee and black pepper.
Best Buy.
abv: 50%
Price: $30
90
Johnnie Walker Black Label (Scotland; Diageo, Norwalk, CT). Bright topaz in the glass,
this 12-year-old blend of over 40 whiskies has a
pleasant fresh apple and vanilla scent. Polished,
versatile and flavorful, look for creamy caramel and
vanilla accented by dried orange peel and honeysuckle. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $35
90
Wiser’s 18 Years Old (Canada; Pernod Ricard,
Purchase, NY). The longer this limitededition whisky lingers in the glass, the richer the
vanilla aroma becomes. Super-light and silky on the
palate, look for vanilla, almond and warm allspice,
finishing crisp. Sip or mix.
abv: 40%
Price: $75
The Scotch Whisky Syndicate 58/6 (Scotland; Bespoke Spirits, Duluth, GA). Blended
using a solera system—meaning old and younger
whiskies are combined in the barrel—this Scotch
contains small quantities of the original 1958 blend.
Married and matured in former oloroso Sherry
casks, this light amber whisky has a resiny quality
at first sniff and sip, but soon explodes with huge,
lingering notes of toffee, espresso and vanilla bean,
settling into a long, spiced exit.
abv: 43% Price: $169
87
J.P. Wiser’s Rye (Canada; Pernod Ricard,
Purchase, NY). Smooth, well-balanced and
recommended for mixing, this rye melds almond,
lemon peel and vanilla, braced up with cinnamon
spice. Allow some time in the glass to slough off initial plastic-y notes in the aroma and allow more oak
and vanilla to step forward.
abv: 40%
Price: $23
87
Stag’s Head (Scotland; Spirit Imports, Sunrise, FL). Skewing slightly sweet and boozy,
consider this blended Scotch to spike desserts and
cocktails. Given some time in the glass to open up,
the aroma evokes vanilla, caramel and a surprising
cardamom note. Meanwhile, the palate is reminiscent of sticky toffee pudding, shored up by espresso
and baking spice.
abv: 40%
Price: $15
86
XO Douglas (Scotland; International Wines
& Spirits, Mt Kisco, NY). Golden, fresh and
scented like fresh-sliced red apples, this blended
Scotch shows vanilla, oak and a mild smoky astringency on the finish. The alcohol heat is evident right
away, so consider a few drops of water or ice to ease
the sting.
abv: 43%
Price: $40
85
Pike Creek (Canada; Pernod Ricard, Purchase,
NY). This small-batch whisky is finished in
Port barrels, which isn’t seen often in Canadian
whisky. More Port-like fruit would have been welcome; instead, the mild scent shows oak and allspice, while the palate has light brushes of caramel,
brown sugar, maple and resin, finishing drying and
oaky.
abv: 40%
Price: $33
89
Johnnie Walker Red Label (Scotland; Diageo,
Norwalk, CT). This mild-mannered, polite
sipper is soft and silky, fragranced with honey and
fresh pear. Flavors include vanilla and honey, relax-
WINEMAG.COM | 87
BUYINGGUIDE
BEER
edge and pleasing astringency that adds texture to
the otherwise smooth mouthfeel.
abv: 5.0%
Price: $5/550 ml
94
Stouts to warm your soul
T
here are very few beer buffs who don’t enAnd then there’s America. American craft
joy a good stout, especially once the cool
brewers have taken the classic English or Irish
winter months arrive. There’s little to
stout to a whole new extreme, producing a wide
compare with the satisfaction that a good,
array of styles. From dry, easy-drinking stouts
strong stout offers on a chilly day, except mayto barrel-aged flavor bombs, the amount of crebe a mug of cocoa—but why have cocoa when
ativity and experimentation that goes into these
you can go with beer? The intense flavors and
offerings is nothing short of amazing. Imperial
occasionally high alcohol levels
stouts offer elevated amounts of
found in stouts provide a fantaseverything: increased alcohols
The intense flavors (about 7–12% versus 4–8%
tic warming sensation, soothing
the soul and heating the body
and occasionally for others), full mouthfeels and
from the inside. Not to mention
high alcohol levels moderately to aggressively hopthey’re delicious.
py characters.
found in stouts
There are so many differMany stouts are also excelprovide a
ent styles of stouts available
lent cellar candidates. Bold prothat there is almost certainly a
fantastic warming files of intense flavor and high
bottling for any palate. Though
alcohol suggest longevity; they
sensation.
they’re all flavorful, each will
can evolve into even more comvary in intensity, weight, alcohol
plex and layered selections.
and overall drinkability.
Though folks might worry that this style is
Many consider Russian imperial stouts to
too strong to pair with food, a robust stout is
be king, with their high alcohol content (usuactually a great choice to serve alongside hearty
ally between 8–12%) and intense, roasted malt
fare like smoky barbecue, grilled game or thick,
profiles. Others might prefer oatmeal stouts,
meaty chili. And let’s not forget about anything
which are full bodied, with moderate alcohol
chocolate, for which stouts are a match made
levels (usually between 4–7%) and creaminess
in heaven.
from the addition of oats to the mash.
Prost!
—Lauren Buzzeo
96
The Lost Abbey Serpent’s Stout (American
Double/Imperial Stout; The Lost Abbey,
CA). Lost Abbey’s beers are never shy on flavor or
intensity, and this certainly lives up to that expectation. It’s a big, bold, black beer that opens with
forward scents of roasted malt, fudgy chocolate, raisin, prune and licorice. Those notes carry through to
the flavorful but surprisingly approachable palate,
with light carbonation and a pleasing astringency
that lends a chewy texture to the finish. Flavors of
caramel, molasses, burnt brown bread, fig paste and
mocha espresso abound in the mouth, ending with a
flourish of Bourbon-soaked oak.
abv: 11%
Price: $12/750 ml
95
Founders Imperial Stout (Amercian Double/Imperial Stout; Foundes Brewing, MI).
Brewed with 10 varieties of malted barley, this is
a well-balanced and complex stout that manages to
go down smooth and (almost too) easy despite the
high alcohol content. It pours dark as night, opaque
88 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2014
black in color, with a serious mocha-colored head
that shows excellent staying power. Rich, bold,
dark-roast coffee aromas lead the bouquet, alongside notes of bittersweet chocolate, sweet smoke,
licorice root and whole anise that carry through to
the lush, creamy palate. A touch of bitterness lends
texture and grip to the finish, with drying notes of
cocoa powder, charred oak, coffee grind and blackened toast that linger long.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $12/12 oz 4 pack
95
Samuel Smith’s Organic Chocolate Stout
(Milk/Sweet Stout; Samuel Smith Old Brewery [Tadcaster], England). Brewed using organic
malt, hops and cocoa, this is an immediately attractive and extremely well-balanced stout. It’s sweet
and chocolaty, as expected, with powerful aromas
and flavors of chocolate-covered dried cherries,
Milk Duds, s’mores, malted milk and roasted nuts.
Hints of toasted oak, sweet spice and charred coffee
bean add depth to the palate, with a faint mineral
Odell Woodcut No. 07 Russian Imperial Stout
(Russian Imperial Stout; Odell Brewing Company, CO). The latest release in Odell’s Woodcut
line is a strong, bold and cellar-worthy selection.
Oak aged—like all the Woodcut releases—in new
American oak barrels, it opens with intense aromas
of bittersweet cocoa powder, roasted malt, charred
wood, s’mores, raisin and sweet baking spice. The
mouthfeel is full and creamy, with a slight boozy
warmth that carries through to the finish. Flavors
of roasted cocoa nib, coffee bean, toasted walnut
shells, toffee and woody spice are plentiful and immensely attractive, with a grounding fruity core of
fig preserves and black currant. This bold selection
is absolutely delicious now, but should evolve and
develop additional complexities with another year
or two of age. Cellar Selection.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA/750 ml
92
Smuttynose Big Beer Series Imperial Stout
(Russian Imperial Stout; Smuttynose Brewing Company, NH). This bold, flavorful selection
pours a dense, opaque black color, with a medium
mocha-colored head and soft lacing. Upfront aromas of roasted malt, toasted spice, raisin, fig and
dried black cherry lead the nose, with additional
notes of resiny hop and charred brown bread in
the background. Those notes continue through to
the creamy, medium-bodied palate, with strong intensity and additional notes of bittersweet Baker’s
chocolate, caramel, black coffee and cigar-box spice
that linger long on the finish.
abv: 9.4%
Price: $8/22 oz
90
Elysian Split Shot Espresso Milk Stout (Milk/
Sweet Stout; Elysian Brewing Company,
WA). Elysian teamed up with Pacific Northwestbased roaster Stumptown Coffee for this lush,
creamy, immensely attractive stout. As expected, it
is brimming with rich and seductive notes of milk
chocolate and espresso, while hints of Turbinado
sugar, cocoa powder and chocolate-malt balls dance
in the background. The texture is full, yet fluffy, like
frothed 2% milk. A mocha-cappuccino flavor hangs
around long on the close.
abv: 5.6%
Price: $12/12 oz 6 pack
90
Stone Coffee Milk Stout Ale (Milk/Sweet
Stout; Stone Brewing Co., CA). Okay, Stone
aficionados—get ready for something completely
different. From the brewery that typically focuses
on hop-fueled selections of great power and intensity comes this light, accessible, easy-drinking milk
stout, the lowest-alcohol bottled beer Stone’s released in 15 years. Brewed with roasted coffee beans,
it still offers ample aromas and flavors of black coffee, light licorice, bitter chocolate and burnt toast.
The lightly bitter finish shows good staying power,
with a touch of vanilla on the back.
abv: 4.2%
Price: $2/12 oz