About Wine Enthusiast Importer Connection Wine Enthusiast Importer Connection is a program designed to make the connection between importers and producers whose wines are not currently represented in the United States easier. Producers who are not currently represented in the United States are welcome to submit their products for a fee to be reviewed by expert tasters at our office in Mt. Kisco, NY. Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested price tier as reflected by a price scale of one to four dollar signs ($-$$$$), its abv as reported to us by the submitter and a tasting note. If price tier or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. Detailed contact information for producers will be available in the searchable Importer Connection database at icguide.winemag.com. Importers who are interested in the wine are welcome to contact the producers for more information and discuss potential business relationships. About the Scores Ratings reflect what our reviewers felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb94–97: A great achievement. Excellent90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Acceptable80–82: Can be employed in casual, less-critical circumstances. Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 points) are not reviewed. 1 | May 2013 Symbol FOB Winery SRP (USD) $ < 4 euros < $10 $$ 4-10 euros$10-25 $$$10-20 euros$25-50 $$$$ >= 20 euros > $50 Tasting Methodology and Goals All tastings are performed blind. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of 4–8 samples. Pricing tier is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. Submitting Products for Review Producers who are completely devoid of U.S. representation may submit products for review. Products submitted by producers that have any current U.S. representation will be deemed ineligible for tasting. Prior to shipping wines for review, all submitters must complete an online application for participation at icguide.winemag.com. There is a $370 per wine charge for submitting products. Producers will be responsible for any international shipping costs to get the product to our office in addition to the $370 program entry fee, which covers covers three (3) main items: customs brokerage and taxes, Wine Enthusiast’s and American Spirit Exchange’s program & processing fees. Participants are paying each company for services rendered with this fee. Once cleared and received, all products will be reviewed and published in a monthly newsletter as well as online in the searchable Importer Connection review database. Submissions received without authorization and a completed online application will not be reviewed. Additional inquiries should be addressed to [email protected]. Find all Importer Connection reviews on our fully searchable database at icguide.winemag.com. icguide.winemag.com PIEDMONT RED WINES BAROLO Contact Company: Amalia Cascina in Langa Contact Name: Boffa Paolo Contact Phone: 39.01.73.78.90.13 Contact Email: [email protected] Amalia Cascina in Langa 2008 Barolo. A bold wine in color and on the nose, this wine is quite youthful. Tobacco, licorice and asphalt focus the nose, followed by blackberry and black plum notes. The palate adds licorice and slate. This is a feisty bottling with rustic tannins, full body, balanced alcohol, mouthwatering acidity and a lingering finish. It’s a baby that needs time, and a good bit of it; consider drinking 2015–2020, at the table with food. abv: 14.5% Price Tier: $$$ 94 Contact Company: Anselma Giacomo Contact Name: Maier Maria Contact Phone: 39.01.73.61.31.70 Contact Email: [email protected] Anselma 2007 Vigna Rionda Riserva (Barolo). A medium-deep garnet color, this leads with aromas of rhubarb, cranberry, strawberry and lingonberry, but then transitions to scents of tar, animale, soy and burning fireplace. The palate is highly structured, with vibrant and refined tannins accompanying mouthwatering acidity to focus the full body and alcohol. Hold until 2015, then continue to watch its progress through 2023. abv: 14.5% Price Tier: $ 94 Contact Company: Trediberri Contact Name: Nicola Oberto Contact Phone: 39.33.91.60.54.70 Contact Email: [email protected] Trediberri 2009 Barolo. This wine is deeply fruity and impressively ripe, with fig, prune and date notes alongside accents of roses, tar and spices. The flavors are very characteristically Nebbiolo and Barolo. There’s a lovely freshness here despite the exuberant ripeness and highly concentrated palate. 93 2 | May 2013 The tannins are fine-grained and sophisticated and the acidity is high yet subtly integrated. The finish lingers. This is a very fine wine to drink from 2015– 2024. abv: 14.5% Price Tier: $$$ Contact Company: Anselma Giacomo Contact Name: Maier Maria Contact Phone: 39.01.73.61.31.70 Contact Email: [email protected] Anselma 2008 Collaretto (Barolo). A deep copper color with black core, this wine starts off closed and tight, with underlying berry notes alongside tar and slate. The palate transforms the experience with incredibly ripe flavors of prune and black raisin that linger through the long finish. The tannins are structuring and refined but in need of protein, and the acidity is well balanced, ready to provide refreshment during a substantial meal. Drink now–2020. abv: 15% Price Tier: $ 91 Contact Company: Francone s.a.s. di Francone Fabrizio e C. Contact Name: Fabrizio Francone Contact Phone: 39.01.73.67.068 Contact Email: [email protected] Francone 2009 Barolo. Deep maroon color with mahogany highlights and aromas of fallen leaves, this wine is showing lovely evolution. The layers of complexity begin with the nose and finish with the lingering aftertaste. Mulberries and quince paste lead the fruit-driven notes, while leather and tobacco pull in behind. The palate is pleasantly feisty with lightly tugging tannins and bright acidity. Clean, typical and compelling, this is Barolo through and through, though it is quite ripe. abv: 14% Price Tier: $$$ 90 Contact Company: Tenuta Biancospino Contact Name: Massimo Sobrero Contact Phone: 39.33.52.84.013 Contact Email: [email protected] Tenuta Biancospino 2006 Riserva (Barolo). This pours a deep red color with black streaking at the core. The nose is restrained and elegant, showing blackberries, black currant and creosote. The palate verges into the brusque lane with ponderous, drying tannins and only medium 90 icguide.winemag.com acidity—a surprising juxtaposition for the variety. Wait until 2015 to see if the tannins resolve; could possibly hold through 2020. abv: 13.5% Price Tier: $$$$ Contact Company: Tenuta Rocca Contact Name: Gianni Ciravegna Contact Phone: 39.01.73.78.412 Contact Email: [email protected] Tenuta Rocca 2009 Barolo. The nose is forward and robust but not obviously Nebbiolo. The aromas show a pleasant Sherry-like note alongside savory accents of charcoal, aged meat and smoke. The fruits are still vibrant: ripe plums and figs. This wine has seen plenty of new oak as there are forward notes of vanilla, chocolate and coffee; that said, it is not unpleasant as it has the fruit to back it. Showing varietal typicity in structure, the tannins are drying but pleasantly so, and the acidity is refreshing. Drink now–2020. abv: 14% Price Tier: $$ 89 Barbaresco Contact Company: Terrenostre Contact Name: Felicino Bianco Contact Phone: 39.14.18.81.37 Contact Email: [email protected] Terrenostre 2006 Antré (Barbaresco). This wine is a medium-deep scarlet color with Tuscan roof-tile-red streaking. The nose is moderately fragrant, with notes of exotic spice and soy. These fragrances are complimented by dried strawberries, roasted red plums and baked rhubarb. The alcohol is perceivable but balanced by the full body, brisk tannins and juicy acidity. An old-school style, with a medium-length finish, that merits a place at the table. abv: 14% Price Tier: $$$ 91 Contact Company: Bonifacio Società Agricola a R.L. Contact Name: Sabino Iandiorio Contact Phone: 39.34.57.53.80.10 Contact Email: [email protected] Bonifacio 2008 Barbaresco. A deep crimson color with mahogany streaking in the glass. The overt and well-advanced—for its age— nose shows appealing ripe, if no longer primary, fruit. That fruit is lightly baked but still very appealing, offering notes of roasted red plum, dried red currant and baked wild berries. Pleasantly drying tannins coupled with fresh acidity make this a table-worthy bottle. Drink now–2015, though the wine may continue to hold beyond then. abv: 14.5% Price Tier: $$$ Contact Company: Azienda Agricola Grasso Fratelli Contact Name: Elisa Mollo Contact Phone: 39.01.73.63.81.94 Contact Email: [email protected] Grasso Fratelli 2004 Bricco Spessa (Bar baresco). The bouquet of this wine is deep and complex with notes of dried red fruits, ripe figs and grated nutmeg. Full-bodied with palate-filling density, the wine is well-framed by caressing tannins and medium acidity. A Barbaresco that squarely sits the fence between the old and new schools, showing well into its lingering finish. This wine showing at its peak now, but can hold a little longer; drink now–2018. abv: 14% Price Tier: $$$ 89 Contact Company: Luigi Giordano Contact Name: Rocca Matteo Contact Phone: 39.01.73.63.51.42 Contact Email: [email protected] Luigi Giordano 2009 Montestefano (Bar baresco). This is a pale, cranberry color, with copper tones throughout the core and extending to the rim. This particular bottle’s bouquet is shutdown, but its palate shows an array of delicate flavors. Barbecue spices, dried roses, plums and slate carry into a nice finish. The tannins are already resolving and the acidity is modest. A traditional-style Barbaresco that can still appeal to the typical American palate, and that is drinking well now through 2017. abv: 14% Price Tier: $$$ 87 90 3 | May 2013 icguide.winemag.com Contact Company: Francone s.a.s. di Francone Fabrizio e C. Contact Name: Fabrizio Francone Contact Phone: 39.01.73.67.068 Contact Email: [email protected] Francone 2008 Riserva (Barbaresco). This wine’s color is a deep mahogany with copper streaks throughout it. Moderately forward in aromatics, the bouquet shows old leather, tobacco and incense. This wine has fully moved into tertiary flavors, even on the palate. The tannins are pleasantly drying and the acidity is pronounced, showing all the structural characteristics to be expected of Nebbiolo. It’s exciting to see such a ready-to-drink wine on the market—fully-developed and nicely complex. Drink now–2016. abv: 14% Price Tier: $$$ 86 Contact Company: Cascina San Cristoforo Contact Name: Davide Carniel Contact Phone: 39.33.36.13.81.69 Contact Email: [email protected] Sassi 2009 San Cristoforo (Barbaresco). This wine’s deep crimson core displays a pretty brick hue. The aromas are discreet, save for some expected volatile acidity, evidencing little more than barbecue spice notes and wild plums. The palate is taut with structuring acidity and drying tannins. The flavors come around to leave a modest finish with strong tobacco leaf, dried leather and mineral notes along with tart plum, dried strawberry and cinnamon nuances. The fruit isn’t generous, making this a food wine for certain. Drink now–2016. abv: 14% Price Tier: $$$$ 85 Contact Company: Azienda Agricola Grasso Fratelli Contact Name: Elisa Mollo Contact Phone: 39.01.73.63.81.94 Contact Email: [email protected] Grasso Fratelli 2007 San Stunet (Barbaresco). The deep maroon color gives off crimson highlights, showing evidence of age. The nose is fragrant and open, offering a potpourri of fragrances. Dried plums, Rainier cherry and loganberry cover the fruit aspects while musk, dried leaves and roses carry the rest of the perfume. The 80 4 | May 2013 tannins are firm but not astringent and the acidity is refreshing. This is a food-deserving wine with good finesse and tugging texture. Despite its merits, this is over-ripe and becoming tired quickly; drink up now– 2016. abv: 14.5% Price Tier: $$$ Contact Company: Cascina San Cristoforo Contact Name: Davide Carniel Contact Phone: 39.33.36.13.81.69 Contact Email: [email protected] Sassi 2006 Riserva San Cristoforo (Barbaresco). This is a deep crimson color with a lightly veiled appearance, presumably due to no filtering. The nose works on the autumnal spectrum, showing fall leaves, old cigar and leather. Dried cranberry and tart cherry offer fruity relief on the palate. This wine seems to be fading quickly, though it still offers appeal for those who love old-school styles of Barbaresco. Drying tannins and moderate acidity offer focus, though more fruit is needed to last much longer. Drink up. abv: 13.5% Price Tier: $$$$ 80 NEBBIOLO D’ALBA Contact Company: Drocco Luigi Contact Name: Drocco Elisa Contact Phone: 39.01.73.33.723 Contact Email: [email protected] Luigi Drocco 2008 Nebbiolo d’Alba. Exceedingly ripe with fleshiness on the palate, and robust notes of roasted red plums, nutmeg, dried meat, exotic and savory spices. Big, bold and broad tannins abound, with some age evident on the palate given the tobacco leaf and dry-aged steak flavors. Full bodied, with balanced alcohol and a lengthy finish. Lightly tugging tannins and bright acidity linger on the finish. Drink now–2017. abv: 14% Price Tier: $$ 94 icguide.winemag.com Contact Company: Ca’ de Lion Ghione Dal 1871 Contact Name: Silvio Ghione Contact Phone: 39.01.41.82.30.94 Contact Email: [email protected] Ghione 2011 Ca’ de Lion Monte Luna (Nebbiolo d’Alba). The wine is deeply colored with a young appearance. The nose is impressively youthful, with exuberant, ripe-fruit aromas of black plum and black raspberry alongside an underlying tone of black pepper. The tannins are pleasantly raw with faint astringency and elevated acidity. Full bodied with high alcohol, this is a well-balanced wine with a rugged youthfulness and medium-plus finish. abv: 14% Price Tier: $$ 92 Contact Company: Tenuta Ro cca Contact Name: Gianni Ciravegna Contact Phone: 39.01.73.78.412 Contact Email: [email protected] Tenuta Rocca 2009 Sorì Ornati (Nebbiolo d’Alba). The first signs of age are coming through on the rim of the deep ruby core. The nose is open and still somewhat youthful, yet starting to turn savory. There is a delicate balance of fleshy fruit and aged characteristics that is quite appealing. Pleasantly drying tannins and medium acidity reflect the style, grape and region, and make for a typical table wine. The finish lingers, suggesting good fruit quality and concentration. abv: 14% Price Tier: $$ 89 BARBERA D’ALBA Contact Company: Amalia Cascina in Langa Contact Name: Boffa Paolo Contact Phone: 39.01.73.78.90.13 Contact Email: [email protected] Amalia Cascina in Langa 2012 Barbera d’Alba. Opaque with a black core and mulberry rim. Youthful aromas of black cherries and plums, bramble, briar and anise leap from the glass. The palate follows with more of the same. The body is full, smooth and supple, with pleasantly tart acidity and rounded tannins. This is a vibrant and densely 92 5 | May 2013 fruited Barbera with a big pop of youthful fruit and a moderate finish. A crowd-pleaser that’s drinking well now, but should hold well through 2017. abv: 14.5% Price Tier: $$ Contact Company: Azienda Agricola La Torricella di Pressenda Diego Contact Name: Pressenda Oscar Contact Phone: 39.33.34.81.42.63 Contact Email: [email protected] La Torricella 2010 Ariota (Barbera d’Alba). This wine’s core is saturated in black and surrounded by a tiny magenta rim. A bit reticent on the nose but full-flavored on the palate, this wine shows no shortage of fruit—red and black plums, açai, pomegranate—along with attractive woodsy undertones. The attack is very ripe but definitively dry. Full bodied with perceptible alcohol, the wine is well-balanced by its vaguely drying tannins and fresh acidity. It’s a chunky, strapping wine that is settling down well in the bottle. It likely drinks best now through 2016, though it has the structure to hold on a bit longer. abv: 14% Price Tier: $$ 92 Contact Company: Drocco Luigi Contact Name: Drocco Elisa Contact Phone: 39.01.73.33.723 Contact Email: [email protected] Luigi Drocco 2009 Barbera d’Alba Superiore. This wine is a deep scarlet color with a hazy core. The nose is exuberant with youthful fruit aromas of blueberry, acai and black currant. The palate adds a layer of complexity with forest floor, soy and grilled meat. Broad-grained tannins and refreshing acidity create nice tension on the palate and guide the wine to a medium-length finish. Exotic and enticing, this wine is best appreciated with food early on, now to 2016, though it should hold longer. abv: 13.5% Price Tier: $$ 88 icguide.winemag.com Contact Company: Tenuta Biancospino Contact Name: Massimo Sobrero Contact Phone: 39.33.52.84.013 Contact Email: [email protected] Tenuta Biancospino 2010 Barbera d’Alba. This wine’s scarlet color shows medium intensity and a slightly hazy appearance. Attractively smoky on the nose, this bottling also delivers aromas of black cherry, black plum, licorice and gravel. On the palate, this suave wine adds hints of dark chocolate, fresh leather and fallen leaves. Its buoyant acidity is softened by the streamlined but gentle tannins. Drink now–2015, with no need to wait as the first notes of evolution are creeping in. abv: 13.5% Price Tier: $$ 88 Contact Company: Tenuta Rocca Contact Name: Gianni Ciravegna Contact Phone: 39.01.73.78.412 Contact Email: [email protected] Tenuta Rocca 2010 Ròca Neira (Barbera d’Alba Superiore). The intense maroon core and light raspberry-colored rim suggest a young wine. The aromatic intensity is moderate, but the palate is densely flavored. However, the wine is not particularly complex, giving most of its excitement right up front and finishing short. It is a people-pleaser, and could be a good by-the-glass pour for casual restaurants, thanks to its full body, generous alcohol, soft tannins and balanced acidity. abv: 14.5% Price Tier: $$ 87 Contact Company: Trediberri Contact Name: Nicola Oberto Contact Phone: 39.33.91.60.54.70 Contact Email: [email protected] Trediberri 2012 Barbera d’Alba. The deeply flushed, garnet core betrays the first hints of bricking at the rim. The appearance is slightly hazy, suggesting an unfiltered wine. The aromas are reserved, only hinting at berries and forest floor, but the flavors are more forthcoming: vanilla and milk chocolate envelope the black cherries and blueberries. The palate is plump and soft, with restrained acidity and caressing tannins. Made in a more modern style, 87 6 | May 2013 this is drinking well now through 2015, and should please palates preferring softer styles. abv: 13.5% Price Tier: $ Contact Company: Terrenostre Contact Name: Felicino Bianco Contact Phone: 39.14.18.81.37 Contact Email: [email protected] Terrenostre 2010 Aje’ (Barbera d’Alba). The youthful, medium-deep cherry color is slightly hazy. Perky acidity and medium-intense tannins frame the medium body. The bright fruit flavors of cranberry, lingonberry and rhubarb are joined by new leather, old wood and tobacco, which all lead to a modest finish that’s starting to show tertiary character. There’s no need to wait on this wine; drink now–2015. abv: 13% Price Tier: $$ 86 Contact Company: Francone s.a.s. di Francone Fabrizio e C. Contact Name: Fabrizio Francone Contact Phone: 39.01.73.67.068 Contact Email: [email protected] Francone 2011 I Patriarchi (Barbera d’Alba Superiore). This wine boasts an impressively opaque and black-laced core with a minute magenta rim. The nose is extremely vibrant and primary, smelling like a winery in mid-harvest season. Cassis, sweetened blackberry, lilac and damp earth create an enticing nose. Plump on the midpalate with generous fruit, soft tannins and nice acidic tension, this is a wine that drinks well alone or with food. The modest finish suggests this is best now–2015. abv: 14% Price Tier: $$ 86 Contact Company: Azienda Agricola Grasso Fratelli Contact Name: Elisa Mollo Contact Phone: 39.01.73.63.81.94 Contact Email: [email protected] Grasso Fratelli 2009 Matiné (Barbera d’Alba). Showing a somewhat cloudy appearance, this wine’s color is medium scarlet. The nose is open and packed with red fruits that then flow onto the palate. Raspberry coulis, strawberry and cherry are all present and just slightly candied. Anise, lavender and graphite notes add complexity. 86 icguide.winemag.com Plump on the palate and medium in body with lightly structuring tannins and bright acidity, this is a crowdpleaser with a medium-length finish. Drink now–2015. abv: 14.5% Price Tier: $$ BARBERA D’ASTI Contact Company: Azienda Agricola Gianluca Poggio Contact Name: Matteo Poggio Contact Phone: 39.03.48.03.38.93.18 Contact Email: [email protected] Gianluca Poggio 2011 Barbera d’Asti. Black and magenta, this wine is opaque in color. Its nose is primary and intense, offering notes of tar, creosote, blackberry and black currant. The palate offers more of the same along with savory, gamey notes. Refined on the palate by its lightly grainy tannins and supporting acidity, this mediumbodied wine is a class act that sports a medium finish. Fit for the table, but enjoyable on its own, this wine works well now–2016. abv: 13.5% Price Tier: $ 93 Contact Company: Tre Secoli S.c.a. Contact Name: Elio Pescarmona Contact Phone: 39.01.41.77.019 Contact Email: [email protected] Tre Secoli 2009 Barbera d’Asti Superiore Nizza. Opaque core with black undertones and bright mulberry rim. Though restrained, the nose shows chocolate notes suggestive of oak aging. On the palate, the fruit is front-loaded with black cherries, black plums and blueberries. Full-bodied with generous but not excessive alcohol, this wine is framed by silky tannins and moderate acidity. The finish lingers, suggesting the wine can age well through 2015 with some evolution to benefit. abv: 14% Price Tier: $$ 88 Contact Company: Azienda Agricola Gianluca Poggio Contact Name: Matteo Poggio Contact Phone: 39.03.48.03.38.93.18 Contact Email: [email protected] Gianluca Poggio 2009 Barbera d’Asti Superiore. This wine is an immensely dark color with ruby hues and very ripe aromas of blackberries, black plums and tar. Though the nose is primary, the palate shows secondary flavors of cigar wrapper, worn leather and autumn leaves. Though moving past its primary stages, this wine shows an intriguing display of flavors and textures. The palate possesses lightly drying tannins and good acidity, making this an excellent table wine. Drinking now through 2016, although it may hold interest longer. abv: 14% Price Tier: $$ Contact Company: Azienda Agricola Cascina Carlot di Mo Claudio Contact Name: Mo Claudio Contact Phone: 39.33.83.52.76.77 Contact Email: [email protected] Cascina Carlot 2012 Claudio Mo (Barbera d’Asti). Deep core with purple reflections and a fuschia rim. Exuberant fruit on the nose—blueberry and boysenberry—with the nuance of mocha and sweet spice. On the palate the wine is generous and soft, with melting tannins and moderate acidity. Clean and mineral, this wine is a nicely modern version of the style. The finish is quick, but that’s just fine. This should be enjoyed with gusto in its youth, now–2015. abv: 14.5% Price Tier: $ 87 Contact Company: Tenuta la Fiammenga Contact Name: Emanuela Caire Contact Phone: 39.01.41.91.79.75 Contact Email: [email protected] La Fiammenga 2010 Paion (Barbera d’Asti Superiore). The nose of this deep-crimson colored wine is massively fruity, with warm berries, baking spice and sweet cream aromas upfront. Pomegranate, dried cranberry and black cherry are joined by clove, flint and smoke on the palate. The pleasantly lazy tannins are lifted by supporting acidity on this full-bodied wine with a short finish. Juicy and easy, this is a great picnic wine; drink now–2014. abv: 14% Price Tier: $$$ 86 88 7 | May 2013 icguide.winemag.com Contact Company: Tenuta la Fiammenga Contact Name: Emanuela Caire Contact Phone: 39.01.41.91.79.75 Contact Email: [email protected] La Fiammenga 2011 Barbera d’Asti. The intense mulberry core shows a medium sized ruby rim. The nose dances between the primary and tertiary camps, offering tobacco leaf, mocha and mulberry. The palate is creamy and voluptuous, with modest acidity and easy tannins, which help explain the highly ripe fig and quince-paste flavors. This is sure to please many palates, though the wine is rather atypical in its softness. The short finish suggests drinking between now and early 2015. abv: 13.5% Price Tier: $$ 85 Contact Company: Macario Giovanna Contact Name: Macario Giovanna Contact Phone: 34.74.30.58.54 Contact Email: [email protected] Macario Giovanna 2010 I Vigneti (Barbera d’Asti Superiore). A deep crimson color with brick nuances. The nose is rather volatile with Portlike aromas of overripe fruit and sweet spice. Warm alcohol, flabby acidity and very light tannins require this wine to be consumed early, now to mid-2014. The modest finish suggests there is some underlying good fruit that was pushed just a bit too far in ripeness. abv: 13.5% Price Tier: $ 84 Contact Company: Goggiano Contact Name: Stefano Scassa Contact Phone: 39.01.41.67.143 Contact Email: [email protected] Goggiano 2008 Bricco Meli (Barbera d’Asti Superiore). This wine has an opaque color with evident copper inflections, suggesting a wine several years old. The nose is currently very closed, as is the palate. Moderately juicy, with light tannins and food-worthy acidity, this wine’s flavors suggest overripe fruit—fig and date in particular. The finish is quick and shows some slightly warm alcohol. Drink now–2013. abv: 14% Price Tier: $$ 82 8 | May 2013 DOLCETTO D’ALBA Contact Company: Terrenostre Contact Name: Felicino Bianco Contact Phone: 39.14.18.81.37 Contact Email: [email protected] Terrenostre 2008 Picula Rusa (Dolcetto d’Alba). Dark magenta in color with a forward nose, this wine is very accessible. It is clean and modern yet true to its variety. The flavors begin with very ripe fig fruit and move into unctuous milk chocolate flavors. Though only 13% abv, this is a plump Dolcetto that is well-framed by lightly feisty tannins and mediating acidity. The finish lingers and offers up savory notes of tobacco and spice box that show this wine is beginning to evolve from its primary youthfulness. abv: 13% Price Tier: $$ 94 Contact Company: Bonifacio Società Agricola a R.L. Contact Name: Sabino Iandiorio Contact Phone: 39.34.57.53.80.10 Contact Email: [email protected] Deep in color with a big, rich and smooth attack, this wine is sure to please many American palates. The nose is toasty with smoky, firewood aromas. The palate explodes with generous ripe fruit flavors: black plum, prune and fig. With its intensely juicy palate impression, moderate acidity, full body and medium alcohol, this wine makes a big splash on the palate. Good for early drinking and casual dining. abv: 13% Price Tier: $$ 86 Contact Company: Azienda Agricola La Torricella di Pressenda Diego Contact Name: Pressenda Oscar Contact Phone: 39.33.34.81.42.63 Contact Email: [email protected] La Torricella 2009 Dolcetto d’Alba Superiore. Saturated with black and magenta color, this wine still looks impressively young. The nose follows in step with good primary fruit intensity. Cassis, blackberries, creosote and thyme combine to create a moderately complex palate. The body is full but the acidity is striking, creating a moderately lean 85 icguide.winemag.com structural profile that makes this a good food wine. Drink now through mid-2015. abv: 13.5% Price Tier: $$ Contact Company: Cascina San Cristoforo Contact Name: Davide Carniel Contact Phone: 39.33.36.13.81.69 Contact Email: [email protected] Sassi 2012 San Cristoforo (Dolcetto d’Alba). Dense with primary color, this wine also shows a light, youthful fizz. Bramble, blackberry and loganberry cover the nose. The palate adds rosemary and licorice. While the palate shows decent concentration, the flavors are bigger in flash than in finish; in the end, the wine is simple though fun. The structure is medium all-around—from body to acidity to tannin to finish. Tasty now but won’t age to benefit, so drink up! abv: 12.5% Price Tier: $$ 83 Contact Company: La Biòca Contact Name: Bisso Atanassov Contact Phone: 39.01.73.19.96.206 Contact Email: [email protected] La Biòca 2012 Ricciaia (Dolcetto d’Alba). This wine is true to its youth in its deep, blackflecked color. Its youth also shows up in the wine’s vivid, untamed, rough-and-tumble tannins, which are further emphasized by its perky acidity. There is no evident new oak contributing to the equation, leaving the fruit to fend for itself. Though there are the typical Dolcetto notes of blackberry and spice, there is also a distracting, unpleasant earthiness. While this is an average Dolcetto, the usual drinkability of this variety is lacking. abv: 13% Price Tier: $$ 83 dogliani Contact Company: Cantina del Dolcetto di Dogliani Contact Name: Isoardi Paola Contact Phone: 39.01.73.79.22.82 Contact Email: [email protected] Cantina del Dolcetto di Dogliani 2011 Dogliani Superiore. The color is deep and 94 9 | May 2013 inflected with black and purple tinges. The aromas are primary and forward and not shy in showing non-fruit flavors like vanilla and mocha alongside rich notes of fig, dried cherry, blueberry and red raspberry. This wine is juicy with full body and forward yet balanced alcohol. The rather gentle tannins and supporting acidity guide the wine into a long finish and should allow the wine to age well over the 3–5 years. abv: 13.5% Price Tier: $$ Contact Company: Cantina del Dolcetto di Dogliani Contact Name: Isoardi Paola Contact Phone: 39.01.73.79.22.82 Contact Email: [email protected] Cantina del Dolcetto di Dogliani 2011 Dolianum San Maté (Dogliani). From color to palate to flavor, this wine is all Dogliani should be expected to be. It is saturated in color, forward in fruit and highly structured. The aromas and flavors range from savory spice to black mission fig and prune— very ripe but definitely bewitching. Though only 13%, the body seems full, perhaps because the acidity is only moderate. Structuring tannins keep the palate in line and help carry the flavors into the lingering finish. This is a good wine for American palates desiring a bigger wine style. abv: 13% Price Tier: $ 90 LANGHE Contact Company: Amalia Cascina in Langa Contact Name: Boffa Paolo Contact Phone: 39.01.73.78.90.13 Contact Email: [email protected] Amalia Cascina in Langa 2012 Nebbiolo (Langhe). Youthful and deep in color with purple inflections. The feisty, vibrant aromas entice with leather, exotic spice, animale and savory notes. The palate is broad—a bit surprising for a youthful Nebbiolo that could be expected to be more taut— with full body and light extract. The wine is medium in tannin, smooth in mouthfeel, and boasts a lovely harmony of texture with beautiful resolution now. Fresh and youthful with energy, drink this up as there 93 icguide.winemag.com is no need to wait, though the wine should age well through the next 4–5 years. abv: 14.5% Price Tier: $$ Contact Company: Bonifacio Società Agricola a R.L. Contact Name: Sabino Iandiorio Contact Phone: 39.34.57.53.80.10 Contact Email: [email protected] Bonifacio 2011 Freisa (Langhe). Big and purple in color, the wine seems to promise youth from its appearance, and it delivers. The nose shows roasted black plums, fresh mulberries and handfuls of exotic spice along with floral top notes. The body vaguely pops with bubbles (natural and residual CO2 from the fermentation), which might surprise unsuspecting consumers. For those expecting that style, this is a delightfully typical Freisa. The finish persists a bit with that exuberance of violets and bramble that characterizes the variety. There’s no need to wait—drink up over the next few years. abv: 13% Price Tier: $$ 93 Contact Company: Tenuta Rocca Contact Name: Gianni Ciravegna Contact Phone: 39.01.73.78.412 Contact Email: [email protected] Tenuta Rocca 2009 Ornati Rosso (Langhe). Deep, vibrant and opaque in color, this wine offers big visual appeal. The body is supercharged with generous and slightly warm alcohol, a meaty body and loads of midpalate fruit. Though the tannins are broad and a bit brusque, the solid core of fruit carries the wine. The lingering finish shows there is good provenance of fruit and adept winemaking. Drink now–2016. abv: 14% Price Tier: $$ 93 Contact Company: Cascina San Cristoforo Contact Name: Davide Carniel Contact Phone: 39.33.36.13.81.69 Contact Email: [email protected] Sassi 2011 San Cristoforo Nebbiolo (Langhe). This wine’s appearance looks quite classic for a young Nebbiolo. It is medium-deep crimson color with a light bricking throughout the glass. The nose peels back layers of nuance: exotic spice, old leather and drying tobacco leaves along with fruity notes of cranberry and tart cherry. As to be expected, the tannins are striking and the acidity is invigorating. This wine is already entering that lovely, contrasting point between youth and maturity. As it is only two years old, that might be early, but its development is becoming. abv: 14% Price Tier: $$$ Contact Company: Trediberri Contact Name: Nicola Oberto Contact Phone: 39.33.91.60.54.70 Contact Email: [email protected] Trediberri 2012 Nebbiolo (Langhe). The nose of this mulberry-colored wine is enticing, with vibrant and pure red and black forest berries. The wine focuses on the savory rather than the fruity. The structure is defined by broad-grained tannins and lifted by medium acidity, offering a beautiful balance overall. There is a brilliant purity along with clarity of variety and provenance, and it ends with a long finish. abv: 14% Price Tier: $$ 90 Contact Company: Luigi Giordano Contact Name: Rocca Matteo Contact Phone: 39.01.73.63.51.42 Contact Email: [email protected] Luigi Giordano 2011 Nebbiolo (Langhe). This bottling shows a rich color for Nebbiolo, despite its youth. The perfume is entrancing, leading with musk, game and exotic spice. The fruits are dark and brooding—blackberry and ripe blueberry. The textured palate and bustling acidity frame the full body. No new oak makes its presence clear. The finish lingers and is nicely layered for such a youthful wine. Surprisingly for Nebbiolo, there is a juiciness and easiness about this wine, so it’s sure to be a people pleaser. abv: 14% Price Tier: $$ 87 90 10 | May 2013 icguide.winemag.com Contact Company: Drocco Luigi Contact Name: Drocco Elisa Contact Phone: 39.01.73.33.723 Contact Email: [email protected] Luigi Drocco 2008 Vigiu Cascina Pontepietra Rosso (Langhe). The wine’s beautiful, deep color is rimmed with copper. The nose is impressively fruity and massively ripe. In fact, it veers into the overripe area of fig and prune, but the flavors remain attractive rather than cumbersome. The tannins are fairly round, but they provide some appealing texture when combined with the marked acidity. This is not an easily accessible wine, but it is loaded with flavor and big in body with a medium finish. It’s hard not to find a good place for it at the table with rustic dishes. Drink up. abv: 13.5% Price Tier: $$ 85 Contact Company: Tenuta Biancospino Contact Name: Massimo Sobrero Contact Phone: 39.33.52.84.013 Contact Email: [email protected] Tenuta Biancospino 2009 Furore Rosso (Langhe). This wine carefully plays the line between old and new world styles. The color is opaque and laced with black. The fruit is generously ripe— but not overripe—with roasted plum and baking spice notes. On the attack, the palate is full and opulent, but then the tugging tannins come in to rescue the balance. Finally, the balanced acidity allows the finish to linger a bit and should help the wine to develop some to benefit over the next few years. abv: 13.5% Price Tier: $$ 85 OTHER RED WINES Contact Company: Goggiano Contact Name: Stefano Scassa Contact Phone: 39.01.41.67.143 Contact Email: [email protected] Goggiano 2012 Fiurin (Ruché di Castag nole Monferrato). Nearly impenetrable in color, this wine’s nose is juicy and vibrant with blackberry and black currant aromas. The flavors burst 93 11 | May 2013 across the palate with lovely purity. The finish is rather short given the intensity of the aromas and flavors. The exuberant aromatics can fool the enthusiastic drinker, making the wine seem easier or lighter than it is. In fact, it’s generous in alcohol, full in body and modest in extract. Its bright acidity lends energy and balance. Drink now–2016, though it may hold longer. abv: 14.5% Price Tier: $$ Contact Company: Ca’ de Lion Ghione Dal 1871 Contact Name: Silvio Ghione Contact Phone: 39.01.41.82.30.94 Contact Email: [email protected] Ghione 2012 Ca’ de Lion Vino Rosso (Vino da Tavola). This wine is a vibrant cherry-red color with massively youthful fragrances. Aromas of summer-ripe blueberries, morello cherries, red vermouth and exotic spice notes abound. The palate offers moderate tannins and medium acidity. This is clean, ripe and exuding soul, not to mention extremely easy to drink, with exciting vibrancy and a mediumlength finish. abv: 13% Price Tier: $ 93 Contact Company: Tenuta la Fiammenga Contact Name: Emanuela Caire Contact Phone: 39.01.41.91.79.75 Contact Email: [email protected] La Fiammenga 2012 Grignolino d’Asti. This starts out with pleasant, yet somewhat straightforward, aromas of sour cherry, earthy undertones and sprinkled floral notes. The fruit turns brighter on the palate as the cherry and fresh strawberry balance quite nicely with the lively acidity and subtle peppery spice. For a lighter style wine, it finishes with just a dash of tannins, yet maintains its vibrancy to the very end. abv: 13.5% Price Tier: $$ 87 Contact Company: Tenuta Biancospino Contact Name: Massimo Sobrero Contact Phone: 39.33.52.84.013 Contact Email: [email protected] Tenuta Biancospino 2011 Conteso (Diano d’Alba). Moderate color with a ruby-inflected 87 icguide.winemag.com black core. The nose shows a nice combination of young veering into mature aromas. Roasted plum, dried lavender and earth are the core components. The medium body, reasonable alcohol, juicy palate and restrained tannins make this an accessible wine. As it is easy drinking, it’s a great by-the-glass option. Nonetheless, it is best fit for the table. Drink now– 2015. abv: 13.5% Price Tier: $$ PIEDMONT white WINES gavi di gavi Contact Company: Azienda Agricola Il Poggio Contact Name: Francesca Poggio Contact Phone: 39.33.83.97.05.90 Contact Email: [email protected] Il Poggio 2012 Nero (Gavi di Gavi). Though typical in its light yellow color, the rest of this wine is pleasantly surprising. The fruit is tropical and exotic with attractive floral and mineral top notes. Though only moderate in alcohol, there is some attractive viscosity and creamy midpalate texture. The acidity structures the wine well, and the finish is clean and lingers long enough to entice one back to the glass. Tasty and fun, drink this wine now–2014. abv: 12.5% Price Tier: $$ 89 Contact Company: Azienda Agricola Morgassi Superiore Contact Name: Marina Piacitelli Contact Phone: 39.33.96.68.35.45 Contact Email: [email protected] Morgassi Superiore 2012 Tuffo (Gavi di Gavi). Pale lemon color with crystalline reflections. This aromatic wine is quite special with its serious minerality, generous wild flower aromas and persistent grapefruit flavors. The acidity pops on the palate, keeping the wine bright, and there is a light tannic grip. Fresh, zesty and slightly tugging 88 12 | May 2013 on the palate, this classically styled Gavi is beautifully structured and drinking well now to early 2015. abv: 12.5% Price Tier: $ Contact Company: Azienda Agricola Morgassi Superiore Contact Name: Marina Piacitelli Contact Phone: 39.33.96.68.35.45 Contact Email: [email protected] Morgassi Superiore 2010 Volo (Gavi di Gavi). Medium yellow in color, this is a serious wine. The citrus-driven palate is well concentrated in fruit and shows substantial leesy and nutty character, making the wine seem quite evolved for its age. The medium body seems heavier than it is given the modest acidity, so it’s the lightly tannic finish that reins in the wine. This is a rather forward expression for a Gavi di Gavi. abv: 12.5% Price Tier: $ 85 Contact Company: Azienda Agricola Il Poggio Contact Name: Francesca Poggio Contact Phone: 39.33.83.97.05.90 Contact Email: [email protected] Il Poggio 2008 Oro (Gavi di Gavi). On the nose, this yellow-colored wine seems tired—its fruit is fading and its leesy, yeasty notes are beginning to dominate. Nonetheless, hay, wax, walnuts, melon and pear all show through on the palate. The acidity is overly lenient, but the wine manages not to feel flaccid despite the mouth-coating viscosity thanks to the mild tannins. Definitely a wine for food, and definitely a wine to drink up now. abv: 13% Price Tier: $$ 84 LANGHE Contact Company: Azienda Agricola La Torricella di Pressenda Diego Contact Name: Pressenda Oscar Contact Phone: 39.33.34.81.42.63 Contact Email: [email protected] La Torricella 2012 Chardonnay (Langhe). This wine is a deep yellow color with crystalline reflections. The aromas on this wine tend to the exotic—pineapple, mango and quince. There’s lots of body, good midpalate density, medium-plus 86 icguide.winemag.com alcohol and restrained acidity, along with a pleasant sensation of tannin on the finish. It’s not as fresh as might be expected for a 2012, but it is showing well nonetheless. Delicious, but not for aging; drink within the year. abv: 13.5% Price Tier: $$ Contact Company: Francone s.a.s. di Francone Fabrizio e C. Contact Name: Fabrizio Francone Contact Phone: 39.01.73.67.068 Contact Email: [email protected] Francone 2011 I Patriarchi Chardonnay (Langhe). Green-gold in color, this wine should have broad appeal in the market. Its aromas of nuts, vanilla, golden apples and pineapples will call to those loving rich styles of Chardonnay. The palate is bold in flavor, broad across the palate and full in body with balancing acidity and light glycerol. While there is youthful energy, there is little refinement and only a short finish. Drink now–2014. abv: 14% Price Tier: $$ 85 Contact Company: La Biòca Contact Name: Bisso Atanassov Contact Phone: 39.01.73.19.96.206 Contact Email: [email protected] La Biòca 2012 My Favorite Rosalia Favorita (Langhe). This is a fun, easy, supple wine with no evident oak and a medium-yellow color. Its aromas are exuberantly floral and packed with pears, yellow apples and dried pineapple. Though medium bodied, the alcohol is actually quite modest and the lifted acidity keeps the palate feeling lean. The finish is brief, but the wine offers fun for sipping with or without food. Drink now–2014. abv: 12.5% Price Tier: $$ 84 OTHER WHITE wines Contact Company: Tre Secoli S.c.a. Contact Name: Elio Pescarmona Contact Phone: 39.01.41.77.019 Contact Email: [email protected] Tre Secoli 2011 Sangallo Sauvignon Blanc (Piedmont). Deep yellow in color, this wine 88 13 | May 2013 looks a bit older than it actually is. However, the other elements of the wine remain youthful. The nose is typical for Sauvignon Blanc, with massive amounts of citrus fruits and lemon curd. Touches of fresh herbs and blanched almonds also show through, and a hint of marzipan adds richness to the palate. The lingering finish is full of lemon zest. This is a tasty wine with a pleasing, medium-weight palate, refreshing acidity and nice complexity. abv: 13% Price Tier: $$ Contact Company: Azienda Agricola Ferrero di Fabrizio Ferrero Contact Name: Giovanni Ferrero Contact Phone: 39.33.82.60.38.29 Contact Email: [email protected] Ferrero NV Treí Vino Bianco (Italy). This nonvintage blend offers lots of appeal with its perky, fresh fruit. Apricot and peach lead the way and are supported by light herbal aromas and plentiful minerality. Medium bodied with moderate alcohol, excellent purity and fresh acidity, there is something here for everyone. Don’t let the nonvintage aspect be a negative, but the modest finish suggests this is a wine for immediate consumption. Drink now through mid-2014. abv: 13% Price Tier: $ 86 Contact Company: Azienda Agricola Gianluca Poggio Contact Name: Matteo Poggio Contact Phone: 39.03.48.03.38.93.18 Contact Email: [email protected] Gianluca Poggio 2011 Bateaux Chardonnay (Piedmont). From the nose to the palate, this wine feels unctuous, despite its moderate alcohol. The nose is like apple pie: densely packed with soft, baked apples, chewy with well-baked crust and topped off with sprinkles of cinnamon. The palate is velvety from the wine’s viscous texture. Though sure to appeal to a number of palates, the acidity verges into the flabby zone; the wine needs more support— both for refreshment and to carry the wine more easily into its medium finish. abv: 13% Price Tier: $$ 81 icguide.winemag.com PIEDMONT sparkling and dessert WINES MOSCATO D’ASTI Contact Company: Azienda Agricola Ferrero di Fabrizio Ferrero Contact Name: Giovanni Ferrero Contact Phone: 39.33.82.60.38.29 Contact Email: [email protected] Ferrero 2012 Teresina (Moscato d’Asti). Water-white in color with streams of tiny bubbles, this is a vivacious and youthful Moscato. Packed with aromas of field flowers, fresh apricots and orange peel, Moscato d’Asti can’t be much more pleasurable than this. The residual sugar is delicately balanced by high acidity. While well-balanced, the sweetness does seem a bit sumptuous for this wine. The juicy fruit is vividly clean and lingers on for a medium finish. abv: 5% Price Tier: $ 90 Contact Company: Azienda Agricola Cascina Carlot di Mo Claudio Contact Name: Mo Claudio Contact Phone: 39.33.83.52.76.77 Contact Email: [email protected] Cascina Carlot 2012 Claudio Mo (Moscato d’Asti). This Moscato is made closer to a still wine in style with very little fizz to add just a touch of texture. This gives the palate an expansive feel that is balanced by supporting acidity. Apricot preserves, verbena, orange blossom and honeysuckle create aromatic appeal and lead to a medium-length finish. Drink now through early 2014. abv: 5% Price Tier: $ 87 Contact Company: Tre Secoli S.c.a. Contact Name: Elio Pescarmona Contact Phone: 39.01.41.77.019 Contact Email: [email protected] Tre Secoli 2012 Moscato d’Asti. This is a typical Moscato d’Asti in its water-white color with green inflections, effusive aromatics and light 86 14 | May 2013 body. The fruit is clean and the wine is true to the appellation’s style. Apricots, peach pith, chamomile and acacia spread from the nose to the palate. The residual sugar is smartly balanced by fresh acidity, which carries the flavors into a medium finish. abv: 5% Price Tier: $$ Contact Company: Azienda Agricola Gianluca Poggio Contact Name: Matteo Poggio Contact Phone: 39.03.48.03.38.93.18 Contact Email: [email protected] Gianluca Poggio 2012 Moscato d’Asti. Pale yellow-green in color with medium-sized, foam-like bubbles. The nose shows some matchstick notes of sulphur, keeping the fruit notes restrained while popping mineral top notes. Still, the fruit is clean, and Moscato’s delightful floral and fruit-salad notes come through loud and clear on the palate. The mousse is distractingly foamy, the body is quite light and the finish is decidedly short. abv: 5.5% Price Tier: $$ 85 Contact Company: Macario Giovanna Contact Name: Macario Giovanna Contact Phone: 34.74.30.58.54 Contact Email: [email protected] Macario Giovanna 2012 I Vigneti (Moscato d’Asti). A pale-yellow color with green inflections, the nose is aromatic but slightly foxy and just a touch herbal. The palate is lean though there is medium fruit concentration. The sweetness almost seems to take over the light body, just balanced by the light alcohol and odd presence of tannins. There is an interesting sweet-sour balance coming out of the mix. The finish is very short, which might be fine for a good value wine. abv: 5% Price Tier: $ 84 Contact Company: Ca’ de Lion Ghione Dal 1871 Contact Name: Silvio Ghione Contact Phone: 39.01.41.82.30.94 Contact Email: [email protected] Ghione 2012 Ca’ de Lion (Moscato d’Asti). Yellow in color with gleaming reflections, 83 icguide.winemag.com the nose of this wine is exuberantly floral and full of apricot, white peach and yellow plum. There are also some foxy undertones that and may develop more with time. The palate is supple and surprisingly sweet, just barely kept in check by the cheeky acidity. The concentration is average, and the overall structure could use a touch more finesse. abv: 6% Price Tier: $$ BRACHETTO D’ACQUI Contact Company: Tre Secoli S.c.a. Contact Name: Elio Pescarmona Contact Phone: 39.01.41.77.019 Contact Email: [email protected] Tre Secoli 2012 Brachetto d’Acqui. The pretty pink color is visually enticing. Tart raspberries and Bing cherries flavor the palate along with a light, savory spice note. The bubbles are delicate, creating a gauzy mouthfeel on this lightbodied wine. The residual sugar adds suppleness and it’s well balanced by the marked acidity. This suave palate leads to a lingering finish. abv: 5.5% Price Tier: $$ Contact Company: Luigi Giordano Contact Name: Rocca Matteo Contact Phone: 39.01.73.63.51.42 Contact Email: [email protected] Luigi Giordano NV Brut Metodo Classico Vino Spumante Nebbiolo (Italy). A pale pink-salmon color, the savory nose of this sparkler shows mineral, earth, herb and red cherry accents. The wine displays a savory quality coupled with a hint of development that shows this wine is past its primary stage. The medium body is lifted by small bubbles, faint tannins and brisk acidity. This bottle offers easy drinking without much complexity. abv: 13% Price Tier: $$$ 84 93 OTHER SPARKLING WINES Contact Company: Ca’ de Lion Ghione Dal 1871 Contact Name: Silvio Ghione Contact Phone: 39.01.41.82.30.94 Contact Email: [email protected] Ghione NV 360° Vino Frizzante Rosato (Italy). This wine sports a surprising, pronounced fuchsia color with blue undertones. It is only faintly bubbly, adhering to its frizzante labeling. The fruit flavors show nice ripeness and decent concentration. Red cherries and red plums abound. Medium-minus in body with juicy fruit structured by mouthwatering acidity, the wine lingers briefly on the palate. In sum, the wine makes a good first impression, showing it is more serious than one might expect given its unusual color. abv: 12% Price Tier: $ 86 15 | May 2013 icguide.winemag.com